Amazingly (given time it has taken me) will actually buy VX2000 but limited return privileges. Besides going step by step through manual and checking each function (including I guess looking at troubleshooting section to see what could go wrong), any suggestions on particular things to look for that could be wrong with camera but not immediately obvious to the novice (me)?? Just as an example only, I have seen posts on "hot pixels" or whatever and I wouldn't know what a hot pixel was if it burned me or what to look for to see if my particular camera had a problem. Maybe there is a published "checklist" somewhere?? Thanks for help.

I think the best way to test the camera and learn the functions is to go through each paragraph in the manual and operate the camera as I read. That way I check out the functions and learn to operate the camera.

Then I go out and shoot with the camera. At least several hours worth of use.

Hot pixels are really apparent. They are the white dot that appears in the viewfinder and the image that don't move when you move the field of view. These usually show up at higher gains so you can place the camera in a dark room and run the gain up to check.

If you live near a populated area, you might try and find another VX-2000 user, get together and compare camera performance. Usually, camera failures are rather spectacular. My PD-150 developed a fault within 2 weeks of its purchase. The steadyshot would sort of slam into its stops and you could hear, feel and see it. Sony promptly repaired it as the company from which I purchased it only covers the first 7 days (B&H Photo Video).

The worst thing you can do is unwrap it and set it on the shelf. Use it a lot for a while. That way, if anything does go wrong, it will likely do so in the first 90 days when Sony warrants both parts and labor.

Set the camera on a tripod and jack it into a TV. Run through each function and feature. It's a good way to learn what the camera will do.

I have a VX2000E which i film with, I use the Custom Preset settng to adjust the color, sharpness, gain and so on...

I know I can adjust the color levels in Premiere/After Effects, but what do yuo guys have adjustet on your VX2000?
You use the CP setting?
I would love to know or get a few tips on the setting which give the most realistic look, maybe even a bit of a film look?:)

Thanks

I have a VX2000E which i film with, I use the Custom Preset settng to adjust the color, sharpness, gain and so on...

I know I can adjust the color levels in Premiere/After Effects, but what do you guys have adjustet on your VX2000?
You use the CP setting?
I would love to know or get a few tips on the setting which give the most realistic look, maybe even a bit of a film look?:)

Thanks

This is what I did. I set up a tripod and the camera, plugged the camera into a monitor. Pointed the camera at a window box with red flowers and green leaves. Played with the CP controls until I had an image on the monitor that corresponded to what my eye saw. I adjusted color and sharpness primarily.

Not at all scientific, probably better way sto do it, but it worked for me.

Rick

Oh ok, that could be a good idea. Did you end up with the sharpness and color almost at the bottom of the scale?
Ive heard that brings a kinda soft good edge on the picture and is the most realistic image compared ti what we see. Im not 100& sure about this, that what im asking you people:)
I like a colorfull picture, but in the sense of realistic.

What I like about the CP on Sony cameras is that you can tweak them to your own personal tastes, which is why I get so annoyed when folks say "Sony colors are flat. Canon colors are richer." "Well then adjust your damn settings, fool". I don't usually say that, just think it.

Personally I have the color boosted and the sharpness tweaked just slightly higher. I know a lot of folks who tweak sharpness lower. To each his own.

Besides checking all the basic possibilities, I would check Zoom tracking ( focus changes between zoom extremes), possible vignetting when zoomed out with open aperture and moving the camera with OIS activated, focus hunting (in auto) in low light situations, dot defects on the LCD viewfinder(s) and hot pixels (most visible with lens covered at and long (1/6) shutter setting and medium gain-up.) On the audio part I would check for motor noises (zoom, focus, tape mechanism) recorded in auto mode in a quite environment. I would also verify if an (SP and even LP) tape from another (good) camcorder or VCR plays back (in both directions) without pixelisation If you find "strange" things try to compare to another VX2000.

Mike, Bryan and Andre; thank you for suggestions and this weekend I'll be trying them out.

Just bought new VX2000, have limited time to return if I want to, day job does not give me much time for experimenting with camera so turning to forum once again for help/advice. Have read and re-read manual (but admit I may have overlooked an answer); camera store expert out for a few days; and no help from Sony Consumer tech service keyboard clickers-- on one issue did call the PD150 boys and they are great, but not fair to bother them--and when I try to escalate at Sony consumer get disconnected (accidentally I think).

(1) Is there a way to display exposure and shutter speed settings in LCD/VF when shooting in full auto mode (would be nice to know what shutter speed and aperture camera is using)?

(2) Annoying when experimenting with various settings that VX2000 shuts down after 5 minutes-- in real shooting situation this seems like it would also be annoying. Does camera at least save settings if you "reboot" right away--seems to in my limited experimenting?? If you are doing a lot of adjusting in studio and so forth, the PD 150 boys suggest taking tape out and they say camera does not shut down then. If situation does not make this practical, any other suggestions to avoid shutdown??

(3) what is best way to manually adjust both shutter speed and aperture --- I saw a post on this once but can not find it in search-- right now I push Shutter Speed button, set shutter, then push "exposure" button and adjust aperture, but if I want to go back and tweak shutter speed have to push "exposure" button (which makes exposure "automatic" again) go back and set shutter speed to new setting and repeat. Also tried setting Auto Shutter to OFF in menu but didn't seem any different than just pushing Shutter Speed Button.

(4) This might be some problem with my VX2000 which I will take back to store if nothing obvious. Manual (p54) says AE shift settings (if moved from center setting) from custom preset will be displayed in LCD or Viewfinder, but I can't get my VX2000 to do that-- CP icon shows up fine and settings are applied (set some far out ranges to test), but no AE shift settings show up in LCD or VF in any of the camera modes. Any thoughts??

(5) Are adjustments made in custom preset applied to all the different Program AE settings ( i.e. Aperture priority, Shutter priority, etc. ) and also to Full Auto when CP is selected. Will save me time trying if anyone knows from experience.

(6) Does Index Mark ( p62) require a memory cassette?? Manual seems to imply it does not, but also seems to say it takes 7 seconds after you push Index button before tape is marked??

Appreciate any help/advice. Other than above I think I have tried and understand most things about camera in limited time I have had to experiment --have not yet bothered with memory stick and still photos and haven't really evaluated/tested for the dreaded "hiss" in audio. Other than having some difficulty trying to hold camera like I do with much smaller/lighter TRV 9 (right hand goes numb from holding just by putting hand between strap by cassette door and camera body-- may try using padded bicycle glove with open fingers to cure that) camera and I are getting along well.

Does anyone know if it is possible to emulate Canon's XL1s Frame Movie Mode on a VX2000?

If by that, you mean the 30 fps sequential scan, no, it will not do that.

Thanks for the reply, Mike. Yes, that's what I meant. Any suggestions for using the VX2000's settings to aproximate a "film look?" I read this month's article on DV Magazine about the subject, but I'd like to find something more specific to the VX2000.

Mike, would I be right to assume that the VX2000's 15 fps progressive scan option is directed at multimedia/web end use? I have the camera, have never used the option, and can't think what else it would be useful for.

I think that is what is good for. I haven't tried it for landscapes but that might be one reasonable use for it.

Hello All,

I am building toolset for my VX2000e and need help for audio (location sound
recording) tools.I am a beginner at audio and may ask stupid questions :-)

Mine is a low-budget (under $1000) setup and based on my research, I have
shortlisted following:
- 2 mics
- wireless receiver/trasmitter for mics
- XLR cables
- mixer 2-4 input
- XLR-2-ministereo converter (cable or adapter)
- recorder (MiniDisc / DAT)

My questions are :

- I would like to use same mics in both wired and wireless setup. Which mics
should I buy?
- what additional accessories (apart from wireless receiver/transmitter) I
need to achive this dual setup ?
- What is a better XLR-2-ministereo option: Just a XLR-DV cable or adapter
like Beachtek DXA-4 ?
- If I have XLR adapter with phantom power (e.g. Beachtek DXA-4), do I still
need K6 module for Sennheiser ME66 mic ?
- If I have K6 module, can I just use the XLR-DV cable to connect the mic
directly to DV camcorder ?
- Any suggestions for 2-4 channel mixer which is battery powered (+ optional
AC power) ?

Many thanks in advance

regards,
-Darshan

<<<-- Originally posted by Darshan Maharana : Hello All,

The problem Darshan is that you have not said what type of location and what exactly it is you wish to record.

My response here will be based on an assumption that you are not going to be in a studio but may be in a home or outside. My replies are also colored by my U.S. residence and all that means.

I am building toolset for my VX2000e and need help for audio (location sound
recording) tools.I am a beginner at audio and may ask stupid questions :-)

In the US, you would be just a little bit short in money for what you want. but here goes:

Mine is a low-budget (under $1000) setup and based on my research, I have
shortlisted following:
- 2 mics
- wireless receiver/trasmitter for mics
- XLR cables
- mixer 2-4 input
- XLR-2-ministereo converter (cable or adapter)
- recorder (MiniDisc / DAT)

My questions are :

- I would like to use same mics in both wired and wireless setup. Which mics
should I buy?

Wireless microphones are very frequently lavs. The lavs need phantom power and have, sometimes, different connectors than that used for direct connection to a camera or XLR adapter.

In all cases, I can tell you that wireless microphones do not have XLR connectors on them. So you are stuck with the microphone that comes with the wireless system. That may be OK.

I will give you the brand and model numbers of the products I use here in the US. Equivalents are probably available wherever you are.

- what additional accessories (apart from wireless receiver/transmitter) I
need to achive this dual setup ?

Sennheiser Evolution 100 setup with backpack transmitter and ME2 lav microphone and backpack receiver. This unit is good enough that you can always use it when you need a lav.

- What a better XLR-2-ministereo option: Just a XLR-DV cable or adapter
like Beachtek DXA-4 ?

I like the adapter that was originally sold by Studio 1 and is now sold directly by its manufacturer. It had much fewer reported problems and is a universal adapter which the Beachtek appears not to be (at least they offer differrent adapters for different cameras) It is now sold by Sign Video http://www.signvideo.com/xlr-pro_xlr_adapter-audio-mixer.htm

- If I have XLR adapter with phantom power (e.g. Beachtek DXA-4), do I still
need K6 module for Sennheiser ME66 mic ?

Yes you do.

- If I have K6 module, can I just use the XLR-DV cable to connect the mic
directly to DV camcorder ?

Not a great idea because the camera puts out some dc voltage which may cause problems with the microphone. Run it through the XLR adapter.

- Any suggestions for 2-4 channel mixer which is battery powered (+ optional
AC power) ?

There really are no mixers in your price range new. A Shure 256 would be a good solution and they are around $150 on ebay but they are monaural. A portable stereo mixer that is active as opposed to passive, is fairly expensive. Around $500 even used.

The Sign Video XLR adapter is a passive input device and does not mix left & right channels. I think there is a new adapter that will allow you to pan the sound if you wish but I don't remember the manufacturer.

What you are missing from your kit list is a microphone mount, a boom pole for the shotgun so you can get the mic close and a windshield for the microphone.

The shock mount can cost you as little as $50 for a Shure.

Boom Poles run from about $150 to the sky is the limit. A $150 unit will be a bit short and heavy but workable.

The windshield can cost as little as $150 for a good one from Light Wave Systems that just covers the active bits of the Sennheiser. I use them in 40 mph winds with no problems.

To pay for all of this, I'd suggest you reconsider the shotgun microphone and get an AT835B which will cost about $150 less and the savings will allow you to pay for the boom pole or the wind shield.

Were I you, I'd add a Shure SM58 ($99) dynamic omni microphone for voice work. Tough as nails. You see them all the time on stage for singers.

Hope this helps.

P.S. If you haven't purchased the camera yet, I'd recommend you opt for the PD150 and get rid of the hassle of the XLR adapter, lack of Phantom Power and the inability to individually adjust audio levels. It does cost more but I think it is more reliable from an audio standpoint in terms of bringing home acceptable sound with the least amount of work. But that is just my opinion.

And don't forget you will need a couple of good XLR cables. Don't buy the $10 guitar showcase specials. And you will waste money if you pay the outrageous prices asked by Monster Cables.

Many thanks Mike for the prompt reply!

>My response here will be based on an assumption that you are not going
>to be in a studio but may be in a home or outside.

your are correct. I am looking for home/outside (non-studio) locations.
My objective is to own low-budget location sound tools for learning and
for low budget projects and rent high-end/specialized gear when needed.

>What you are missing from your kit list is a microphone mount, a boom
>pole for the shotgun so you can get the mic close and a windshield for
>the microphone.

Yes. I will add these to my list.

> If you haven't purchased the camera yet, I'd recommend you opt
> for the PD150 and get rid of the hassle of the XLR adapter, lack of Phantom
> Power and the inability to individually adjust audio levels.

I recently bought Vx2000e after seeling my 3-year old TRV900 on ebay :-)
Again, VX2000e was a natural choice for my budget.

-Darshan

I just found this new series of BEHRINGER
mixers which are very resonably priced:

http://www.behringer.com/02_products/ub_index.cfm?id=UBSERIES&lang=eng

I am thinking of getting their EURORACK UB 1204-PRO which is 4-XLR + 8-Line
mixer available for $140 at musiciansfriend.com.

Any opinions ?

I have a VX2000 which I am going to be taking on a safari to Africa in August. Last year I used a trv900 on safari in Botswana and South Africa. The video is wonderful but the audio wasn't as good as I would have liked. I was hoping to be able to get an add-on mike that would give me more focused audio (sorry, haven't learned all the correct terminology yet). For example, we were at a kill, lions eating kudu, close enough that I should have been able to hear the munching and yet what I got was us rustling around in the Land Rover and the clicking of all the still cameras.

I would appreciate any and all suggestions as far as audio is concerned. I am fairly new to DV but it is so interesting and I really want to learn. Also, if anyone has any suggestions for training on video not for preplanned events (movies, weddings, etc) but for travel video that would be a great help too.

This is a wonderful site and I am spending hours going through the old posts so I can learn everything.

Unfortunately, the in-vehicle sounds you recorded are exactly what happens with the sound equipment you had at the time.

To get the 'crunch' you need to get closer with the microphone. To avoid in-vehicle sound, everyone needs to shut up and stop moving. Just like a movie set.

Although a shotgun microphone will give you more of the 'crunch', unless you are prepared to spend around $3500 for your microphone, it will also pick up the sound in the near environment too.

The reason for your problem is that there is no equivalent to a zoom lens in audio work. The laws of Physics say that everytime you double the distance to the sound event you wish to record, the level decreases by a factor of four. So the local sounds overwhelm the distant sounds. The $3500 microphone off-axis sound through an on-board computer.

I assume you would decline to put a wireless lavaliere on the lion for the sake of your art :-)

There are no good cheap solutions. One step up would be to look at something like a Sennheiser MKE-300 which is a small hot-shoe-mounted short shotgun. It's output is actually too high for your VX-2000 and you would need to pad it down or get Sennheiser to reduce the output level. This microphone goes for around $180 or a bit less. It's problem is that it cannot be outfitted with a wind sock as far as I know.

The next step up is a big step but probably will not bring back any noticably better sound than the MKE-300 without somehow moving the microphone closer to the action.

Figure $250 for a middle-of-the-road Pro shotgun, $150 for a XLR adapter, and $50-$250 for a decent camera mount for the shotgun. Depending on the wind levels in Africa, you may want to invest in a wind sock to kill the wind noise. The foam wind screen that comes with the shotguns is really only for indoors and outdoors in very gentle breezes.

A very useful windsock will cost you $155 from Light Wave Systems who can also sell you a camera mount (at the higher end of the price range but very nice indeed). Oh, and you will need a couple of XLR cables. One of about 12" in length for camera-mounted use and a 20' one for those times when I companion can hold the microphone closer to the subject so your sound will really be top drawer.

You could also invest in a telescoping pole (called a boom pole or fish pole) that would allow someone to extend the microphone out from the cab of the vehicle. A reasonable pole would allow the microphone to extend maybe 6 feet from the vehicle, thereby avoiding most of the in-vehicle sound. Of course the lions may consider the microphone to be the local version of a pinata and act accordingly. A rugged boom pole costs about $150. It would work for any shotgun you selected.

Hope this helps.

Hi List,
Is there a shoulder support or some sort of after market kit that would allow the vx2000 to be held in a more comfortable way for long gigs? Thanks

yes their is!

habbycam.com
videosmith.com
studio1productions.com

Varizoom makes two good models.
http://www.varizoom.com/pages/oneshoot.htm
http://www.varizoom.com/pages/lsp.htm
These are available through Varizoom and other dealers.

The "Habbycam" is actually a knock-off of Varizoom's design.

anyone has any idea or heard any rumour about when Sony will put out a new model of prosumer mini dv to replace the existing vx2000? any idea what it will look like? vx 2000 is almost 3 year old already. Is it about time? or m I wrong?

I've heard rumours that a replacement will be mentioned at NAB. I don't know if this will be the case. But I think that Sony will come out with a new model soon, to compete with the DVX100. We'll have to wait and see, I guess.

I have decided to buy the VX2000, I guess from B&H. I was wondering what else I would need. I'd like to give you a little background about me and what I am going to use the camera for.

About me. I am dumb as two posts. I know very little about video production. I am going to get several books about the science and art of video production. Any thoughts? I have fooled around with consumer grade Hi8 and DV and want to move up.


What I want to do. I am interested in creating small documentary style films. Nothing fancy.

What lenses do I need? How about audio equipment? Any thoughts?

I've been enjoying reading through the forum. It has been very helpful.

Hi Joe. I took the same trek last summer, bought the VX2000 from B&H (no hitches), after 18 months with a Sony D-8 and a Raptor card in an aging PC. Had an editing PC built for me a few months before I bought the new camera. My biggest project prior to these purchases was a 21-minute travelogue on ten days in Portugal. While my current kit is absent many things I want and will acquire, I'd suggest a wide angle lens (I bought the Canon WD-58), a better than you want to buy tripod head and a carry bag (your hands get full fast lugging equipment), Sony hand-held and lav mics, extra batteries and a hard case with do-it-yourself foam inserts. The home store tool-kit variety will do for starters. Be conscious of foam dust as it ages. Read about light kits but try to get some experience with them before you buy one. I keep a wish list in a text file on my desktop and if money was no object I'd go on for a few more paragraphs. An enthusiast with dreams has a long road ahead but if it's what you want to do with your extra time it is very rewarding, if hard on the hair. To me the biggest things are learn the camera and learn to use your NLE, whatever choice you make. Combining the best images you can make with as many hours as you can put into learning to edit brings satisfaction. And, of course, tell stories that touch people somewhere. Production values won't carry a story that doesn't arrest the viewer. Incidentally, you've come to the right forum, and I don't mean because of my reply. I've learned more here than anywhere else, thanks to the calibre and generousity of its supporters.

You've spent a good buck on the camera, now buy a quality bag.

I researched just about every bag on the market and there's none better than the Portabrace
http://www.portabrace.com/asp/ProdDesc.asp?DescCode=CS

There are others but none fit the camera as well as this one.

Buy a 930 or at least a 750 battery (or two), you won't be sorry.

Sennheiser K6/ME66 mic
Best bang for the buck. A good hot mic. Buy the K6/ME66 as a kit, it's cheaper that way. Use the battery and don't bother with phantom.

AT 8415 shock mount

Beach tec for balanced audio connectivety
http://www.beachtek.com/

A quality MULTI COATED UV filtre to protect your lense.

To mount the cam and mic and to give you some balance while doing handheld i like the Mighty Wondercam Mini Rover.
http://www.videosmith.com/

and finally for some light reading and excellant advice
http://www.urbanfox.tv/
The PD150 workbook on the upper left is especially good. It's all good.

There is a herd more but that's enough for now

"Good" tripod, monopod, batteries (big) and sound equipment.

A good hardcase, that many of us are using, the "Workforce" briefcase style toolbox available at Lowes, Home Depot and maybe other places. It's an aluminum hardcase, padded interior with repositionable dividers. Another similar one I've found is the same type of case at Menard's, comes with the same padded interior, rounded outside edges and foam block interior for customizing holes for your equipment.

I'm using two of the Workforce boxes for my two VX-2000's, and accessories. These are only running approx. $19.95.

Also, the Canon WD-58 wide angle lens is a nice addition, screws right on, and now comes with it's own lens shade.

I got my VX2000 last fall. I'll tell you what I've wound up with:

Circular Polarizer
UV Filter
Optex Wide Angle Lens
Extra batteries:
2: NP-F750
1: NP-F960
Quick Charger (I cheated -- had it left over from my TRV20)
Lowepro MiniTrekker backpack
Hard Case (only $19.95 at Lowes!)
Sony HVL-20DW2 video light
Adorama monopod (also a left over from my previous kit)
Standard lens cap for the VX2000 (cuts down on size)
Standard rubber lens hood for the VX2000 (cuts down on size)
Thin circular polarizer for the Optex Wideangle
UV filter for Optex (warning: vignettes!)
Replacement strap (the one that comes with the camera is too short)

[edit]And, today I just ordered an ATR55 shotgun mike which, I think, and with the stuff mentioned below, leaves me covered for just about any audio situation.

That's strictly the camera stuff. I also got these for recording ambient sound, street performances, etc.:

Sharp MT-15 minidisk recorder
Sony ECM-MS907 stereo microphone (small handheld)
Vivanco EM-216 stereo lapel microphone

My whole kit fits nicely in the Lowepro backpack (except for the hard case, of course), travels very nicely, and provides everything I need for shooting high-quality video.

You might want to replace you UV with one from Tiffen.

I usually do nature video near where I live with my VX2000. When I shoot against a 100% clear and blue heaven I can see some noise. Why?

TIA

br

I don't see that with my PD150 when shooting outdoors. Are you using the ND filters when prompted by the camera?

I assume from your description that the sun is not in or just outside the field of view and the noise you describe is not flare, right?

P.S. Please edit your personal information and use your real name.

Members who are still using "handles" (which are no longer permitted, see the link in my signature below), are urged to update their signatures with their real names (click "user cp" button above, then choose "edit profile"). That way one of the admins can come through and update your username for you. Thanks,

bluerabitt, you have to give us more details. I've never even seen/heard noise from footage shot with a VX2000.

Yes I use ND filters when needed. May be my prior explanation is not correct. When I see the heavens in my NTSC monitor I can see it some (a little) grainy...The movie is not over or underexpossed, and I have not sun reflections...is just the pure blue "tropic" heaven. Any idea about?

Federico Prieto

Chris: mail sent......

One thing I've noticed with any lossy compression scheme is that the areas where you usually can really see artifacting is in big smooth colors. Is it possible that you're seeing DV artifacts and not camera noise?

Yes Brian; that is possible....I believe that it is what I see.

Thaknks

Recently, I was filming a band and the the light was very low so I decided to try the low lux mode under the ae function. While it gave a tremendous boost to the video in terms of brightness, it also made the band appear in slow motion.

What did I miss, forget to do? Does anyone here have experience using the low lux mode?

What is the best way to film in low light situations? Should I adjust the exposure and shutter speed manually and forget about the low lux mode? Or does it work with some setting that I forget to do?

Yes, forget about the low-lux mose. The band weren't in slow motion (you'll notice that the sound track was perfectly normal) but they were being filmed at 1/3rd or 1/6th sec. These slow shutter speeds are fine if that's the effect you're after, but in reality you're better off sticking to 1/50th, using the faster wide-angle end of the zoom and applying gain up.

tom.

Thanks Tom

Hi - I use a Sony VX2000 and want to find a way to improve the audio - I would like to attach a professional 3-pin mike like a Sennheiser, but I don't know if there is any kind of adaptor that can be attached to the camera to allow for this - any advice?

Perhaps look at the Beachtek and Sennheiser ME66/K6.

Here are two options copied from my ever-present wish list:

 Studio 1 XLR-BP-PRO Replacing the original XLR-PRO, this beltpak version features two XLR inputs, switchable for mic/line, volume controls (attenuation), mono/stereo, ground lift, as well as 1/4-inch and 1/8-inch inputs (which you should be cautious about using). The box features DC blocking and almost no internal loss of mic signal (unlike certain other brands). It is less expensive than the original XLR-PRO boxes. USD$200 at http://www.equipmentemporium.com/audiofor.htm

 XLRH8/DV cable Adapts XLR to stereo mini, bridges audio over Left and Right camcorder channels to eliminate noise. Blocks any stray voltage at camcorder input. Note: Some miniDV camcorders may not require voltage blocking. However, most Sony's work best with this cable. http://www.equipmentemporium.com/audiofor.htm (USD$50)

I get short horizontal or fuzzy edges on moving people or things. Takes still pictures very clear. I have tried program scan and fast shutter speeds no help. Any advice? Clean the heads, take the camara in, or normal.
My daughter's ice skating competion looked so bad I can't watch it on TV. On the camara with the small picture you don't see the fuzzy edges.

This is not normal AFAIK.

Always a good idea to run the cleaning tape for 5 seconds and see what effect that has. Try a different tape.

If you have made adjustments on camera operation and want to get back to nominal, use the Reset button on the camera.

If the problem persists, I'd return it for service. Hopefully it is under warranty.

New sony tape didn't fix it. Camara reset didn't fix it. Head cleaner ordered, comming in the mail.

what about faulty connection? such as a stressed cable?