Hello, maybe I'm wrong because I've only been using GH6 for 2-3 days but ...... I have problems with AF. But not with continuous AF, but with fixed AF. I have configured the camera to follow people, but I certainly happen to film the countryside and the streets many times without the people and I never change the camera configuration. Almost every time the GH6 goes out of focus for a few tenths of a second with the shots fixed on tripod. I see this in almost all the clips. I sold the GH5 for this problem and I'm certainly not getting better with the GH6. But then again, maybe I'm doing something wrong. Maybe I need to put the switch on "S" instead of leaving it on "C". But if that's the real problem, it's a nuisance. How do you concentrate on the video, if every time you have to put your hand to the controls of the GH6 for the AF and ... not only?

It sounds like you would like to setup the camera one time . . . and then expect it to perform flawlessly in a variety of different shooting situations. If that is the case, you will never be happy. A professional camera must be adjusted and tweaked constantly to adapt to changing conditions. A GH6 is never going to be as easy to use as an iPhone no matter what settings you choose.

I don't have an GH6 but I do have an S1H and I think you might need to learn your camera better and then practice, practice, practice. If you're not happy with the AF performance, then learn to use MF, especially when shooting landscapes and streets. I'm not happy with AF on my S1H so I always use MF. It is common knowledge that Panasonic AF (for video) in their mirrorless cameras is not very good. If you wanted great AF you should have bought a Sony.

Hi, Adriano..............

Your mention of the word "tripod" immediately rang an alarm bell with the description of your problem, and one which goes waaaay back to the introduction of Optical Image Stabilization (OIS) in its various guises and its behavior when the camera is used on a tripod.

The issue is usually seen as snapping/ juddering of the image in OIS mode during left/right pans tho' there's no reason why it wouldn't appear during tilts as well.

This MIGHT be perceived as a focus problem if you're not aware of it. Next time you shoot from your tripod shoot a segment with OIS ON then repeat it exactly with OIS OFF. See if this solves your problem.

Regards,

CS

Adriano. Try the following. Switch the indicator to M. Manual focus. Frame the shot and then press the " AF On " button. Should be right by your thumb. The framing box in the LCD will then have green corners showing it has focused. Release "AF On" button and shoot. If you need to reframe just repeat. You can move the framing box by touching the LCD and moving it to the point you want in focus. Even changing it size with the wheel.

I think I sent you this reference before Understanding the Autofocus Dial on the Panasonic GH6 | What do the Auto Focus modes do on the GH6? - YouTube, He goes over all the features of the GH6 and I think it would be good for you to watch ALL his videos.

Ron,
first of all thanks for your advice, i always need them. ;)
I have a doubt. I am noticing that after switching the indicator to M, if I press the camera's front shutter button up to half, instead of "AF On" button, I get the same result, that is green corners showing and it has focused. Maybe I'm wrong?

Two days ago I bought the ProGrade Digital card reader online for CFexpress Type B and SD UHS-II dual Slot USB 3.2 Gen 2 cards. But after 2 days the card reader stopped working and I sent it back. Now I have to buy a new card reader again.
Do you have a reader to recommend?
Thanks

Yes. Either will work.

That is the card reader I bought so not sure what to suggest for you. It has worked great for me so far. What happened to it? What did you have it plugged into on your PC ?

I had connected it to the desktop computer, with which I do video editing. From day one it was never possible to remove the CFexpress Type B card with the "safe removal" option and I had to forcibly remove it. Instead the SD could be removed without problems.
But after 2 days the rard reader stopped working with CFexpress Type B. It no longer read the memory card.
I think I will buy it again, because it worked fast.

Hi, I would like to start using the V-Log well with my GH6. I have already done some tests and it seems a good profile for my doc anche that give me some satisfaction. But I don't know if my GH6 settings are right.
Now I write my settings:

3840x1260 50p
4:2:2 / 10bit / AlLL-I, LPCM 600 Mbps
ISO 800
Luminance 0-1023
Do you think something needs to be changed?

Is the Edius 9 Lut by default good, or is there something better?
Thank you for your welcome advice because I have never used V-Log and I would like to learn better from someone who has more experience than me.
THANK YOU again.

EDIT: In your opinion is it better to choose Angle/ISO in the GH6 Menu?

All i will result in much bigger files but maybe easier to edit. However for you that would mean using 3 times the number of cards when you travel compared to 4:2:2 10bit LongGOP at 200 Mbps. I think your computer will play those 4:2: 2 10bit files? Try first. Personally I have moved to using Resolve as I find on my PC it is much better. I use colour management in Resolve so no need to use a VLog Lut's at all. Of course PCC in EDIUS does not use a Lut either but corrrect the color space like Resolve but for me not as well. Turn on the internal Vlog lut for the LCD so that you can see what the end image will look like.

It is personal view of if you set angle/iso. If you are switching frame rates often, especially slow frame rates, it is handy. Personally I always shoot 60P so I usually leave sec/gain .

I would learn from looking at some YouTube videos and using yourself as Vlog is not straight forward to use and will need you to pay attention to exposure levels maybe a lot more than you do now.

I would learn from looking at some YouTube videos and using yourself as Vlog is not straight forward to use and will need you to pay attention to exposure levels maybe a lot more than you do now.
I would really like to find something on the Internet/youtube to understand how V-Log is handled with Edius. I'd like to see some examples of how to manage colors. But on youtube there is NOT anything or almost nothing about Edius and V-Log. What a shame. I would like to learn how to use Edius 9 better but I don't know where to look.

EDIUS converts fine by just applying PCC filter to clip. Nothing else to do. The rest you may want to do is just like any normal corrections to levels or colour you may want to apply. More important is how you expose for Vlog when shooting. I believe there is a lot of videos on shooting Vlog. Just look. You do not want to under expose as when you bring the levels up you will have noise in the shadows if you have under exposed.

Dealing with Vlog files is a lot easier than shooting Vlog.

Hello, I need to ask 2 questions please:

1) Could you tell me which option among Exp. Mod. is better for me shooting in V-Log? I don't shoot landscapes, I only shoot the work and daily life of the people in their villages and above all outside.
Look at the pic please:
https://i.postimg.cc/7LNQdBK8/Cattura-gh6.jpg (https://postimg.cc/VSdRbFyD)

2) I have just read that the GH6 also works with a USB cable to be powered by a PowerBank. I tested with a powerful 6.800mAh PowerBank which has 2 USB ports, one 1A and the other 2.1A. It's this: QTshine Power Bank Solare 26800mAh con Type C Ingressi,Caricabatterie Solare Portatile con LED Emergenza per Esterno AttivitÃ*,Batteria Esterna 2 Porte 3.1A Ricarica Rapida per Cellulare iPad Tablets : Amazon.it: Elettronica
I removed the battery from the GH6 and then connected it to the PowerBank with the cable from the USB port which is the output of the PowerBank. I tried to turn the GH6 on but nothing happend and it is off. Can you tell me why?
Thanks

If you had watched all Steve Litton's videos you would have seen the correct Powerbank. The battery must also be in the camera to work.

Best Power Bank for the Panasonic GH6 | Compatible USB C Power Banks for the Panasonic GH6 - YouTube

This is the one from Anker Powercore + https://us.anker.com/collections/power-banks/products/b1376?variant=37438551752854l]

To tell the truth, I've watched some of those interesting videos. But since English is not my mother tongue, unfortunately I make a huge effort to understand and sometimes I don't understand well, even if I activate the translation in my language.

However, if I connect my PowerBank to the GH6, the red LED lights up and this means that it is working and transmitting the charge to the battery. Even turning on the GH6 I see the normal charging message. But I don't know if my PowerBank works fine and if it can fully charge the battery. I could give it a try before writing this message, but I'm afraid of ruining the battery. Could you/anyone tell me if my PowerBank can work properly? I do not know the various powerful in Watts or Ah well.
In other words, can I recharge the battery using my PoverBank? It's this: QTshine Power Bank Solare 26800mAh con Type C Ingressi,Caricabatterie Solare Portatile con LED Emergenza per Esterno AttivitÃ*,Batteria Esterna 2 Porte 3.1A Ricarica Rapida per Cellulare iPad Tablets : Amazon.it: Elettronica
Thank you!

I cannot give you a firm answer Adriano as I cannot find detailed information on that product. I can see that is important for you with it being solar charge. Did you try plugging in the Panasonic charger that came with the GH6 instead of plugging into the camera ? I am sure you just want to charge the battery not carry around the powerbank with the camera when you shoot. Get another battery to backup while you shoot. I got a couple of aftermarket batteries that work fine. Don't seem to last as long as the Panasonic but close.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08NN1Q66G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I write the specs:
Capacity: 800 mAh / 99.16 Wh
Input: 5 V/2.1 A
Double output: 5 V = 3,1 A (2,1 A max + 1 A)

The GH6 requires 9v 3A PD output to be able to run the camera AND charge the battery. If the powerbank provides less than that it may run the camera with frame rates and resolution restriction and not charge the battery. I have another powerbank that is in this category. It will run the camera but not charge the battery and a screen pops up when the camera is switched on that informs me there are restrictions. Hence I bought the Anker.

Please, can you tell me how many batteries your Anker charge?

I have not tried so really cannot tell. But it has more than 10 times the capacity of the Panasonic battery . I did not get it to charge the battery. I want it to run the camera while a shoot a 2 hour show. I did a test for the 2 hours and hardly see a difference in the display level on the battery !! Of course I would still also have a full battery in the camera if I just pulled out the USB c plug. So fully meets my needs. For you on your trips you will need to use batteries in the camera or it would be a big weight to support while shooting. So the powerbanks for you should be to charge batteries. I will see how long it takes to charge a battery in the camera and let you know. Will be a day or two as all batteries now are full. Your solar powerbank would be great if it works even if it could not fully run the camera as well. Did you see if it will charge the battery ?

Adriano. I let the camera record with a full Panasonic battery, 5.7K 60P recording to the SD card and it ran for 1 hour and 5 mins. Let it run to the end and watched it close off the file before shutting down. So good it did that. Then plugged in the powerbank. It charged up the battery in camera in about 1 hour 15 mins as indicated in the camera LCD so may keep topping up the battery for a while longer too. Faster than the Panasonic mains charger !! Indicator on the powerbank still showed full so I assume it will charge a few times more. Did you check how long your powerbank takes to charge the battery in camera?

I also took a test. I took a completely discharged non-original battery and put it to charge with my PowerBank and Panasonoci charger. Charging lasted about 2 and a half hours (but I don't know exactly why I had to go out). Then when I got back, I saw the PowerBank shut down. I took the battery and inserted it into the camera. The icon that was shown was a full battery. But I honestly haven't tested how long it works.

At least you now know you can charge the battery. The camera will also use your old batteries but only in selected resolution and frame rates.

Out of curiosity:
when I put the clips shot in V-Log on the Edius 9 timeline and then apply the patch, the clips get colored. But if I shoot in ProRes with V-Log and then patch the clips, nothing happens and the clips don't color. What should I do to correctly patch clips shot with ProRes and V-Log? Thanks

Why are you shooting ProRes. Out of interest? For what you do on your trips you want the best use of memory. So 5.7K 50P 4:2:0 10bit would be good or even C4k 50P 10 bit L. Since your computer can edit with Long GOP you will see no difference going to All i just use more memory.

EDIUS sees ProRes but does not know from that what is the colour space as it is just a carrier. In PCC select Panasonic Vlog/Vgamut as input colour space and it will change.

Ron,
you are giving me very important info. I am eager to understand. I Now I'm doing some tests to check the best quality for my computer.
I'm testing ProRes because I'd like to use ProRes in future, I would like to ask you some specific questions to understand better.
1) You are suggesting me 5.7K 4: 2: 0 300 Mbps and because is it easy to manage in video editing? But maybe 4: 2: 0 won't be as manageable than 4: 2: 2, right?
2) Is it better to shoot in V-Log too with 5.7K?
3) Anyway I can't shoot 50p because Edius 9 Workgroup does'nt allow to choose 50p but only 24p. What a pity!!

Answering you questions in reverse.

3) Yes EDIUS 9 does 50P. It is one of the presets you just need to select.

2 ) Frame rate and resolution do not matter. V Log gives you the option for greater dynamic range to work with when editing. However you need to take greater care when exposing when you shoot. If you find this too complicated use Cine D or Flat.

1 ) I use 5.7 to get greater resolution. That way I can crop in more than if I shot UHD. Allows greater reframing in a 1920x1080 project. No other reason. 4:2:2 10 bit is MORE difficult to edit on the computer.

Why do you want to use ProRes ? Do you think it is better ? Shoot some tests and see if you can tell the difference.

I thought about ProRes only because I know it is easy to do video editing.

I don't see the 5.7K Preset with 50P in Edius 9. I see 4K 4096x2160 24p. Look at the first pic.

Could you check the second pic and tell me if I have to config. Edius 9 in this way and if it is the right config?
Thank you.

That is the limit for EDIUS 9WG. EDIUS X does go to 8K. But why do you want to do that. For your TV surely you would want 3840x2160 and that is there at 50P in EDIUS 9WG. I would even see editing at 1920x1080. You can then always render at 3840x2160 if you want to do that. Beauty of shooting 5.7K is you can use layouter and move around the image or use the full image.

I do not think that recording ProRes is a viable choice for your trips. Example on my GH6 with 512G CFexpress card. ProRes 30P ( which I do not like motion) 57mins. With 5.7K h265 60P 3 hours 57 mins. What do you shoot on your trips in total? Also recording to the CFExpress card uses more power and gets hotter. Neither are things you want on your trips.

I would even see editing at 1920x1080. You can then always render at 3840x2160 if you want to do that. Beauty of shooting 5.7K is you can use layouter and move around the image or use the full image.

Therefore what is your suggestion if I like to get the highest video quality? If I can edit in HD and then turn the project into UHD, I could I rec in 5.7K with the GH6 and to edit the clips in HD and then to export in UHD. Is it right?

In your opinion is it convenient to shoot with variable framerate (VFR)? I will get less heavy files but maybe does the video quality deteriorate a little?

On the variable ND filter that I applied to the GH6 lens (filter slightly larger than the lens), I put a lens hood. But when aiming the GH6 at the white ceiling, I have just noticed that the red light of the AF is half covered. In other words, the lens hood partially covers the projection of red light. Do you think it can create problems with autofocus?

Yes you can shoot 5.7K 50P then edit in HD. EDIUS allows you to change resolution but not frame rate. When you finish editing in HD change project settings to UHD then export. Make sure any titles or graphics still align correctly.

That is exactly what I am doing. I have always shot 3840x2160 on the GH5 and GH5S but edit and deliver in 1920x1080. Gives me the ability to pan/scan around the image in editing.

GH6 shoots VFR for effect I would not use normally for what you do. The intent is to shoot at faster frame rate and slow down for slow motion effect. Yes the video quality can suffer depending on how fast. Doesn't make it easier on the computer maybe the opposite.


The main use for that AF light I think is when the scene is dark. I do not think it important for daylight when you have the ND on the lens. I would not trust AF when its dark anyway. Use punch in to check manually the focus.

Two final questions please. You know AF is very important to me. I have configured the GH6 only by choosing the HUMAN subject detection (the face / eyes are off in the Menu). I set the AF button to "S", then I very slowly press the record button to focus. Look at the pic please. When I shoot I always see some tinkling of Autofocus in all the clips. In other words, the image goes out of focus for a tenth of a second. It's innavertibile on the GH6's small LCD monitor, but I've seen many of these out of focus. Even today I took a wide angle shot at the public gardens and I ran into this problem seeing the clip on the monitor in post. Do you think I can solve this problem by configuring some other option in the Menu?

I've been using the V-Log a lot these days. I do a lot of tests but one thing is not clear to me.
I put the ISO in AUTO. Also in this way I always have to increase the exposure by almost two stops, or does the GH6 do it automatically and choose the right exposure for the V-Log?
THANK YOU

As you know I do not use continuous auto focus at all. I set the lever in M. But I do use the AF On button to set the focus and check with expanded focus ( magnification in center of screen ) with also peaking on so can see those things that are in focus. So not sure I can help you with Auto focus.

As to exposure. If you use auto iso then you will need to use exposure compensation button and increase about 1.5 to 2 ev when shooting Vlog. You need to experiment yourself to find what you are happy with. Also depends on the metering you have selected as that will change how the camera responds and then how much compensation is needed. No, the camera does not do it for you. You have to decide how to expose. Learn to use waveforms and zebras. That way you can decide if you are prepared to over expose highlight to get the shadow detail you want. If you are not prepared to learn this then using Vlog is not for you and you will be better off using Cine D, Flat or even Like 709. You will still need to use the exposure metering that best suites you scenes though.

Yes. Either will work.

That is the card reader I bought so not sure what to suggest for you. It has worked great for me so far. What happened to it? What did you have it plugged into on your PC ?

Hello Ron,
I have problems with ProGrade Digital reader type B again. I bought 2 weeks abot that reader and it died after 2 days of use. I bought this player again but I'm afraid I ran into another faulty reader In fact every time I try to use "Safely Remove Hardware" icon, a window tells me "Device currently in use" .... etc. etc, and it is impossible to remove it. I have to remove the CFexpress card forcibly and with the yellow light active on the reader. I have Windows 10. Can you tell me if you have the same problem? Even if with Win 10 there should be no forced removal problems, I will send the reader back. Can you tell me if you also have the same problem with CFexpress cards? With the SD the reader is fine.
Yes, I plug the reader to my PC by USB3 port.
Look the pics please.
Thanks

PS.Do you still have no problems with this reader? It seems incredible to me that a reader of that price has this problem.
This happens to me even if I don't open the CFexpress card and as soon as I insert it into the reader. I have usually never had these problems with SD in the past time.

The reader works fine on both my PC and my new M1 Studio Max. You may need to check that the USB C interface on you PC is the correct one for the reader. It requires a USB C 3.2 Gen 2 interface to work 10Gbps.

But you know that the ProGrade Digital reader type B reader is equipped with a cable with a USB C 3.2 end and a USB2 on the other that must be inserted into the USB2 port of the PC. Should I buy a new cable?

I get this "Device currently in use" message from time to time and usually it's because explorer or even my chrome browser is still open, as soon as I close everything then the usb device also safely disconnects.

Now I just took a test. I restarted the PC and did not open anything. I immediately inserted the CFexpress into the slot of the reader and tried to eject it correctly. But I always have the same problem and with the same message. CANNOT extract it correctly. It is the second reader I buy and the other one also had the same problem. After 2 days it stopped working and I sent it back.
If you were me what would you do? Would you send it to the sender?

But you know that the ProGrade Digital reader type B reader is equipped with a cable with a USB C 3.2 end and a USB2 on the other that must be inserted into the USB2 port of the PC. Should I buy a new cable?

It is not a USB 2 connector it is a USB 3 tape A connector. It will not work in a USB 2 port. USB 3 has blue spacer and USB 2 has black spacer. As Noa says . Make sure nothing else is open. Also the Reader comes with both types of cable so you should have both. USB c to USB c and USB C to USB tape A.

It is not a USB 2 connector it is a USB 3 tape A connector. It will not work in a USB 2 port. USB 3 has blue spacer and USB 2 has black spacer.
I'm sorry, I did an typing error. I know perfectly well which is the USB2 and USB3 cable.
If ProGrade give you a USB3 cable, it HAS to work in a USB3 port of the PC. Is it right?


As Noa says . Make sure nothing else is open. Also the Reader comes with both types of cable so you should have both. USB c to USB c and USB C to USB tape A.
Maybe you didn't read my latest post well. I did a test restarting the PC and without opening anything, I immediately inserted the CFexpress in the slot of the reader, but I get the same problem.

I also tried the other cable with the 2 USB C connectors because my PC has also those ports, but I get the same problem. I'm afraid the reader is defective again this time.

That would be a big coincidence that 2 new readers are malfunctioning, I'm sure it has something to do with your windows setup, do you have the possibility to test them on another pc?

I have now tried both the USB C connector and the USB A connector on all my PC's ( I have 5 PC's and one MAC ) It works on all of them but only in the USB 3 connector. I think there is something wrong with your PC connection. Or you are plugging in to a USB 2 port. Make sure you Windows in up to date especially the drivers.

Or try different usb ports, on my old pc the front usb ports sometimes did not work correctly either, only those directly connected to the motherboard on the backside of the pc.

Yes, I tried even with another different computer with USB3 port, but I get the same problem.

I have now tried both the USB C connector and the USB A connector on all my PC's ( I have 5 PC's and one MAC ) It works on all of them but only in the USB 3 connector. I think there is something wrong with your PC connection. Or you are plugging in to a USB 2 port. Make sure you Windows in up to date especially the drivers.

I used all my USB 3 ports and even another computer (laptop) with USB3 port, but I get the same problem. I don't know if also this reader is defective.

I assume the SD reader works? Also you only have one CFExpress card to try? Make sure the CFExpress card is really well inserted into the reader. It really does need to be pressed in firmly.. I find it hard to believe two reader are defective. Has to be the card or it is not inserted fully.

I would not want to waste your time with me to answer this question again but I would like to tell you that I have tried with 2 computers, 2 USB3 cables and with 2 CFexpress. I have 2 CFexpress cards that I insert them firmly, but I always get the same problem.

I would send it in and ask for a replacement, if that 3rd one also fails then you can be sure it's your pc that is causing it.

There are several other CFexpress readers you could try but not sure if there are many that have both SD and CF. Like Noa I still feel it is something to do with the PC as the reader works on all my PC's. I will try again on all my PC's with all the USB connectors and see if can get it to fail as it could be an issue of how the connection is made through a hub. Will report back later today.

Unfortunately in Europe it is not possible to find Noa. There is Sandisk reader but it costs a lot more that ProGrade reader.
Anyway I like to inform you, I disabled all AUTOPLAY (for all the drivers) in my PC. I followed these steps: https://support.lenovo.com/at/en/solutions/ht502955

As the first 2 steps didn't work, so I followed the third step. Now my PC no longer loads anything in Automatic mode.

I attach some pics where you can see the error 47. But I don't know what it is.