With all due respect Josh you don’t know that to be a fact.

I'm going by what he said.

But, because I have too much time on my hands from being a childless freelancer, I dug a little and IMDB lists Ryan Elder in several credits with people's projects that coincide with...Ryan Wray...namely...Pigs in a Blanket. I believe one of the things he's listed in has a trailer on Youtube (The Big Gust) that has the girl from his Timewine short.

All this leads me to believe he's exactly who and what he says he is. He's mentioned being asked to act in projects so credit to whoever dug up the Pigs sitcom.

Sorry if I came off like a troll. I did not mean to troll at all. Perhaps I have been to busy trying to do to many things at once and missed some things with the audio recorder. Sorry about that. And I do appreciate all the great advice I have been given on here. Again thank and sorry if I have been giving a bad impression of myself.

The answer to the question about why a 12V charger is required may be explained in a different way.
Oh, OK. What's happening is that the adapter is wrong for that recorder. It is actually draining the charge out of the batteries, and if you leave it connected they will become lower and lower. The problem is that as you drain the electrons out of the batteries, they will develop a vacuum inside, and eventually they might implode, which could be messy to say the least.

Have you ever pumped up an inner tube in a bicycle tire? The way that is done is to attach the pump to the valve stem and start pumping. The higher pressure from the pump causes the air to flow into the inner tube with a lower air pressure. One keeps doing this until the desired pressure is reached, then at which time one can quit pumping and disconnect the pump.

Charging the batteries is the same way. The higher voltage fills the batteries up until they reach the desired level and then the charger stops. Simple as that.

If the pump has very little pressure it will take a looooong time to fill the batteries ... er, tube, up. So this is how the 12V source inflates the 6V batteries and does it faster than using a lower voltage source.

Edit: one more thought. The suggestion about getting the factory charger is a good one. Others may work but who knows what problems might occur. A 4-year electronics engineer BS EE degree is a really difficult one and often takes longer than the hopeful time the university figures. The designer used little coils, capacitors, resistors, and the like to come up with their little micro circuit to do the job and I'm sure they had other thoughts in mind during the design. One has to factor in the probability of failure in specifying what to use, the cost of the items, and manufacturing costs. All this to give you the best deal.

Okay, order the thingy then go back to coloring walls. g'night.

Oh okay thanks, that makes sense. I tried a 12 V adapter and the battery power indicator says it's full now, and operating at full capacity. So I guess it was the previous adapter that was the problem after all then, and not anything in the field recorder it seems?

That's entirely correct (in a simplified way), and that does apply to a lot of equipment.

However, ironically, it does not apply to this particular recorder.
From the FR2-LE manual, p.21:

"<Notes on using rechargeable Ni-Cd/Ni-MH batteries or a Tamiya battery>
The FR-2LE does not provide battery charging facility. To charge rechargeable Ni-Cd, Ni-MH
batteries or a Tamiya battery, use an appropriate battery charger for the battery type and
follow the instructions of the charger to fully charge batteries."

If we could look at the overall schematic for the unit, we might find a reason why 12V is more convenient than some other voltage would be. But, as I said earlier, the choice of voltage is unrelated to the fact that the recorder wasn't working with the previous AC adapter. And repeatedly asking WHY that voltage was chosen is entirely immaterial to solving the problem ... just a waste of time if your goal is to get it working again.

Oh okay, I thought maybe the 12 V vs 6V with batteries possibly held some sort of key to the problem, my mistake.

So now that I have tried a 12V adapter, and the battery indicator on screen says it's full now, does that mean it's working now?

Oh okay, I thought maybe the 12 V vs 6V with batteries possibly held some sort of key to the problem, my mistake.
Then why did several of us repeatedly tell you it was NOT related? Obviously you know more about electronics than the rest of us combined.

Because a lot of people were saying I need 12V when it only seemed to take 6 from the batteries, so I was wondering why. I thought that that WHY, would help figure out the problem. The 12 V vs. 6V seemed like an inconsistency to me, and if I see an inconsistency, I feel it may be the key to the problem, since if it comes off as an inconsistency.

I can't imagine why you'd think you know enough about electrical theory that you could figure it out.

Nor can I comprehend why you'd keep asking us when you don't believe us and continually ignore our advice.

Oh sorry, I didn't mean to give off the impression that anyone was wrong, I was just trying to look at anything to find out what it could be, that's all. That's why I asked. I wasn't meaning to imply people were wrong. Sorry. I was just not understanding some things about it and had to get some things straight which is why I asked. But all I asked is why does it say 12 when it takes six. That's not saying anyone as wrong, I was just asking to know more.

Ryan has told us a few times that he is on the spectrum, but never explained any particular needs he has - which is a shame as we could probably understand better.

His responses when presented with comments about him personally, is to push it to one side and move on. Sadly, that's not a good coping mechanism when reacting to a text based communication system.

We do tend to be accepting and pretty nice, but it wears thin when he pushes and pushes, and despite saying "OK" actually dismisses good advice in favour of a different solution.

In a way, these huge topics, if edited contain quite a lot of useful stuff when viewed by a third party.

He simply drives us mad after a while and we have to stand in a dark room to recover for a while.

Hey sorry about that. Did not intend to drive anyone mad. Perhaps I just try to take in information on all areas to try to solve the problem instead of focusing on the advice in one particular area. Sorry about that. I do sincerely appreciate all the advice and it has been very helpful. I did not intend to come off as trolling, and I'm sorry if I have.

Greg: Sorry I missed your humor, a ";-)" might have flagged it for me.

Some serious information for Ryan:
Battery stated voltages are nominal and vary by the type; Alkaline are about 1.5 volts per cell. Li-Ion are about 3.6 volts per cell. NiMH and NiCd are about 1.2 volts per cell. The voltage will vary with the state of charge in the battery. Cells are stacked in a battery to get the output voltage. Thus the typical 7.2 volt consumer video camera battery is usually comprised of 2 Li-Ion cells, or perhaps 6 NiMH or NiCd cells.

A reason you select the battery type in the recorder is to ensure the low battery warning and battery level displays are triggered at the appropriate battery times/voltage. It may serve other purposes as well but that is not obvious from the available documentation.

Why 4 AA batteries (not 6 or 8 or some other number or size), why the 12 volt AC adapter, why the 7.2 volt Li-Ion option? These are design considerations some of which may include:
- how much power will the device need (volts and amps)
- what weight and bulk are users willing to carry (Using D cells would last a lot longer than AAs, but add a lot more weight and bulk. Voltage step-up circuits are smaller and lighter than additional batteries)
- what parts are readily available at what cost. If the mfgr. is already using the 12 volt adapter with other gear it may make sense to use it here as well rather than adding additional adapter types to stock.
- are there regulatory or insurance concerns? Things that plug into the wall outlet (e.g., the wall wart) may need UL, CSA, or CE listing, while the low voltage devices powered by them may not need it. Listings cost so it is more efficient/cost effective to list one wall wart rather than the 10+ things it might be used to power.
- in addition to the UL/CSA/CE listing question, adding built-in ac power capability to a portable device adds cost, bulk, and weight

All this is generally transparent to the end user. Just power and use the gear as intended and be happy in your work.

My gripe is I now have many wall warts of various sizes/ratings that came with gear ranging from recorders to routers to scanners to proc amps to you-name-it. In many cases they are generic and not labeled with the make/model of the device with which they came. I try make it a point to label them when I open the box to help keep them matched to the correct device.

"I now have many wall warts of various sizes/ratings that came with gear ranging from recorders to routers to scanners to proc amps to you-name-it. In many cases they are generic and not labeled with the make/model of the device with which they came. I try make it a point to label them when I open the box to help keep them matched to the correct device "

> +11 I write the voltage/amperage and/or the device the wall wart/ line lump belongs to with a paint pen or marker, so I can ID it at a glance, otherwise I usually need a magnifying glass to read the specs,.

Don:
I hoped that anybody with some knowledge of electronics, and some recollection of the often technical nature of my posts, would realize I couldn't have been serious. An erroneous assumption on my part. Actually if somebody did find a way to "suck the electrons out of the battery" then I guess the whole battery would become positively charged in the sense of static electricity. (I loved playing with a Van de Graaff generator when I was a kid.)

I find a white paint pen is great for marking black wall warts. I don't have one in front of me so I can't tell you the brand, but a decent office supply store should have them.

Paul:
If Ryan is, in fact, "on the spectrum," then I wish someone would have mentioned that earlier in the thread. Not having heard that theory, my perception was that he was being willfully stubborn and intentionally refusing to respond to our specific comments and suggestions. I've seen similar behavior in boys around 6th grade age, being aggressively stubborn in order to defy the teacher. The only other example was an employee who acted that way if he was assigned a task that he didn't want to perform ... and I eventually fired him. Absent any actual medical information, I perceived Ryan's behavior the same way ... being willfully stubborn.

its come up on other threads and I occasionally feel compelled to remind people.

I find a white paint pen is great for marking black wall warts. I don't have one in front of me so I can't tell you the brand, but a decent office supply store should have them.
> Most of the arts and crafts chain stores have paint pens as well. There are usually a variety of tip size an colors to choose from. .. Note: the low cost ones do not work very well, or for very long. So plan on spending 4 or $5 (been down that road already try'n to save a buck or two).
The gold and silver metallic Sharpies are good for writing on dark surfaces as well.

Greg: Sorry I missed your humor, a ";-)" might have flagged it for me.

Some serious information for Ryan:
Battery stated voltages are nominal and vary by the type; Alkaline are about 1.5 volts per cell. Li-Ion are about 3.6 volts per cell. NiMH and NiCd are about 1.2 volts per cell. The voltage will vary with the state of charge in the battery. Cells are stacked in a battery to get the output voltage. Thus the typical 7.2 volt consumer video camera battery is usually comprised of 2 Li-Ion cells, or perhaps 6 NiMH or NiCd cells.

A reason you select the battery type in the recorder is to ensure the low battery warning and battery level displays are triggered at the appropriate battery times/voltage. It may serve other purposes as well but that is not obvious from the available documentation.

Why 4 AA batteries (not 6 or 8 or some other number or size), why the 12 volt AC adapter, why the 7.2 volt Li-Ion option? These are design considerations some of which may include:
- how much power will the device need (volts and amps)
- what weight and bulk are users willing to carry (Using D cells would last a lot longer than AAs, but add a lot more weight and bulk. Voltage step-up circuits are smaller and lighter than additional batteries)
- what parts are readily available at what cost. If the mfgr. is already using the 12 volt adapter with other gear it may make sense to use it here as well rather than adding additional adapter types to stock.
- are there regulatory or insurance concerns? Things that plug into the wall outlet (e.g., the wall wart) may need UL, CSA, or CE listing, while the low voltage devices powered by them may not need it. Listings cost so it is more efficient/cost effective to list one wall wart rather than the 10+ things it might be used to power.
- in addition to the UL/CSA/CE listing question, adding built-in ac power capability to a portable device adds cost, bulk, and weight

All this is generally transparent to the end user. Just power and use the gear as intended and be happy in your work.

My gripe is I now have many wall warts of various sizes/ratings that came with gear ranging from recorders to routers to scanners to proc amps to you-name-it. In many cases they are generic and not labeled with the make/model of the device with which they came. I try make it a point to label them when I open the box to help keep them matched to the correct device.

Oh okay thanks. Actually a guy I know showed me large heavy battery he has and said I could plug it into the adapter port, and then if I am out in the field, with no power plug in options just use this larger external battery so it doesn't go dead near as often as the AAs. This battery he has measures at 12V exactly, for the adapter port. Would that be a be a good idea to use this larger battery while outside, if it's 12V as well?

I suppose it depends in how heavy the battery is, how easy it is to charge and how you will carry it. 12V is an odd voltage for a cell. 13.8V is more common, but as long as you can charge it, and the connector is secure. Sounds useful. Is it running time on the 1.5V cells that is worrying you?

Yeah cause I have to change the 1.5s quite a bit, and don't like delaying people if I can help it.

According to the manual, I gather a Tamiya Battery (7.2V) 3600 mAh lasts 8 hours in the FR-2LE

Sounds like a nominal 12 volt sealed rechargeable gel cell (a leak proof form of lead-acid battery). At full charge they ran a bit under 14 volts open circuit. Today you see them in applications such as emergency light fixtures, alarm systems, small UPS for PCs, and FIOS terminal equipment back-up batteries. They come in a variety of form factors. They were used to power portable audio and video gear ~25 years ago, such as the Panasonic AG-456 S-VHS camcorders and video lights. I've used 6 volt versions to power Hi8 camcorders that came with 6 volt NiCds.

The nominal 12 volt batteries are available in a number sizes and shapes. A common "Power-Sonic" brand 9 amp. hr. battery is about 2"x4"x6"and weights about 5.25 pounds. It should be able to run the recorder in question 30 hours or more starting with a full charge, but is a bit heavy for present day run-and-gun use.

If considering this you will need a compatable charger for it the battery, and an appropriate fused connector cord to the recorder. Also, keep in mind that using a power source other than what is documented in the user manual may damage the gear and void any warranty. (Chargers for NiCd, Ni-MH, and Li-ion generally are not suitable or safe for this type of battery unless specifically labeled for it.)

One other caveat. The amp-hour (or ma-hr) rating of a battery is based on specific conditions including time and terminal voltage. For typical AA alkaline batteries is roughly 2 amp-hours and reflects the amount of current you can obtain over 20 hours with an end voltage of about 1 volt. This translates to about 0.1 amps from the AA. However, as the current draw is increased the available amp-hours decreases due to discharge rate effects in the battery chemistry. Matching battery size to the application is one of the design considerations.

Oh okay thanks, I think that's what the battery is. As long as it would work, and not cause any problems since I am plugging in a 12 V batter into the adapter port.

There is another thing. Some people say I should upgrade to a field recorder that has more XLR ports, so I can plug in additional lav mics as well as the boom. Is it bad that I have been using a boom mic only, without lavs?

I figure that if I can shoot a movie with just one camera to save money, than its no worse than using just one mic. But what do you think?

Cann you not yet predict our answers. I have two - one is two channel, one is four channel. I use the most appropriate one, and frankly, for me - the two channel one is in use more often. I usually use this if there are two lavs, leaving the camera mounted mic to pick up the general stuff.

Your quest to do things win the cheap means that while one camera can capture a scene, if there are multiple sound sources that all need to be captured, one mic will be totally insufficient. Can't compare sound and picture in this way. The all round capture from the camera mic is great for atmosphere, but it lacks the definition of the boom, or the lavs. Right tool for the right job.

As the sound recordist on dramas and documentaries. lavs will be part of the standard kit, they;re also part of the radio mics kit(which are more common now than they used to be).

Shooting with one camera may not save you money in the long run, it depends on what you're shooting. You can't compare the camera requirements with the audio requirements, the logical end result is that you only need one light regardless of the production you're making.

Ryan, you are unbelievable. In post #123 above, Don said "Also, keep in mind that using a power source other than what is documented in the user manual may damage the gear and void any warranty."

In the very next post, you said, Oh okay thanks, I think that's what the battery is. As long as it would work, and not cause any problems since I am plugging in a 12 V batter into the adapter port.

Ryan, don't you pay any attention to the information and advice we're giving you? If you continue to act as if we're wrong, why do you keep asking us more questions? Aside from being rude, it's a waste of time and energy.

Oh, okay. It is a *nonimal* 12 volt battery. It is *called* 12 volts. That does *not* mean it will always provide exactly 12.0 volts. (Similarly, a "two by four" is not really 2" x 4", and a "half inch pipe" is not really 0.50" diameter.) "12V" is just a rough average of the range of voltage it will produce at various times. Depending on the state of charge, it may actually be as high as 14.4 volts (my "12V" car battery is between 14.8v and 15.0v when the engine is running), or as low as 10 or less (actually it can run down to zero volts if you leave a load connected long enough). We can *not* guarantee that this battery won't cause some problems with the recorder. If the recorder was designed to use a "12V battery" the manual would say so. But the manual does *not* say that.

Here's a homework problem for you. Please tell us exactly what the manual says about power supplies.

Oh, okay. And who are "some people" who tell you all these things? I think they're just in your imagination.

Oh, okay. If you're really trying to economize, why not have just one actor play all the parts? Then you could safely get by with just one mic. And of course you'd have just one actor to pay, instead of a whole cast. With the money you save, you could probably afford to buy yourself a Big Mac.

Greg is the Youtube "Ryan Wray Show" our Ryan? If so it would make sense why these threads are impossible to understand.

My take away is that he doesn't have ANY money. He asks about what equipment to buy and talks of hiring people for a feature film, and yet he can't buy a $20 power adapter. He doesn't listen or can't comprehend any advice given to him. Whether he can help it or not it's pointless trying to answer his questions.

The idiot in the Ryan wray YouTube videos is sadly British, and shot in England, so isn't our Ryan. At least that is one bit of good news!

Ryan, you are unbelievable. In post #123 above, Don said "Also, keep in mind that using a power source other than what is documented in the user manual may damage the gear and void any warranty."

In the very next post, you said,

Ryan, don't you pay any attention to the information and advice we're giving you? If you continue to act as if we're wrong, why do you keep asking us more questions? Aside from being rude, it's a waste of time and energy.

Oh, okay. It is a *nonimal* 12 volt battery. It is *called* 12 volts. That does *not* mean it will always provide exactly 12.0 volts. (Similarly, a "two by four" is not really 2" x 4", and a "half inch pipe" is not really 0.50" diameter.) "12V" is just a rough average of the range of voltage it will produce at various times. Depending on the state of charge, it may actually be as high as 14.4 volts (my "12V" car battery is between 14.8v and 15.0v when the engine is running), or as low as 10 or less (actually it can run down to zero volts if you leave a load connected long enough). We can *not* guarantee that this battery won't cause some problems with the recorder. If the recorder was designed to use a "12V battery" the manual would say so. But the manual does *not* say that.

Here's a homework problem for you. Please tell us exactly what the manual says about power supplies.

Oh, okay. And who are "some people" who tell you all these things? I think they're just in your imagination.

Oh, okay. If you're really trying to economize, why not have just one actor play all the parts? Then you could safely get by with just one mic. And of course you'd have just one actor to pay, instead of a whole cast. With the money you save, you could probably afford to buy yourself a Big Mac.

Oh okay but I measured and the multimeter says 12 volts though. I am just trying to get creative, and think outside the box. The equipment and instructions say to only use the adapter provided, but is it wrong to get creative out in the field, if you want more power, as long as the creativity does not exceed 12V? Yes the instructions say to use the adapter provided, but if I want a battery that can last longer, is thinking outside the box, completely out of the question?

How do we know our Ryan isn't British?

is it wrong to get creative out in the field, if you want more power, as long as the creativity does not exceed 12V?

We've already told you that a so-called "12V" battery often does exceed 12 volts. What part of that did you not understand?

How do we know our Ryan isn't British?
I’m pretty sure he’s from Canada so that’s not him which is a relief.

That's what he wrote in his profile. But people can write anything. He might actually be a little old lady in a wheelchair in Outer Mongolia. Or that Nigerian prince who keeps sending me email.

That's what he wrote in his profile. But people can write anything. He might actually be a little old lady in a wheelchair in Outer Mongolia. Or that Nigerian prince who keeps sending me email.
I’ve been on other forums where people would create fake accounts to make mischief for their own perverse enjoyment. That’s why I’ve been suspicious. I believe this isn’t a fake account but it’s hard tell if his questions are genuine.

One thing that is evident is nothing productive is achieved in any of these threads. It’s hard to politely say that the root of his problems is some sort of mental condition. No amount of advice or knowledge that we try to share seems to be of use.

We've already told you that a so-called "12V" battery often does exceed 12 volts. What part of that did you not understand?

I understand but the exact reading on the battery is 12.2. Is that bad? I am just trying to get creative to have more battery power.

He might just be a precocious 10-year-old who read a book about film-making. He's intrigued and wants to talk about it, but is too immature to follow a logical thought process.

I understand but the exact reading on the battery is 12.2. Is that bad? I am just trying to get creative to have more battery power.

How recently was that battery charged? What is the chemistry? Every battery in the world has some range of voltage, depending on chemistry and charge level.

We have already said that batteries that are called "12 volt" can go as high as 14 volts or more when fully charged. That includes your "12 volt" battery. Did you understand and believe that statement?

Or do you think we don't know what we're talking about, or that we're intentionally lying to you?

Gents, in addition to the IMDB stuff and “four in a blanket” sitcom in which hes credited, you can also search “timewine movie” and find a thread from THREE YEARS AGO on a screenwriting forum where he posts the script and asks questions. His forum writing style is immediately recognizable as “our ryan”. If its a prank then it’s a prank that’s been going on for years across multiple (appropriate) forums and has an evolving narrative arc. That would be a “worthy-of-an-episode-of-a-police-procedural” -level prank.

Have I mentioned I have too much time on my hands?

His forum writing style is immediately recognizable as “our ryan”.
You mean bad spelling and every paragraph begins with "Oh, okay"?

I mean (sigh), yeah. In addition to the other little giveaways.

Even if that's true, how do we know he isn't being deliberately obtuse just to annoy people?

So let me get this straight...three years ago he posts a script, then actually makes the movie, receiving much criticism throughout the process, consistently having the same personality, writing style, etc. the whole time, for the sake of annoying others online?

OR

He's who he is and says he is.

Which is more likely?

How recently was that battery charged? What is the chemistry? Every battery in the world has some range of voltage, depending on chemistry and charge level.

We have already said that batteries that are called "12 volt" can go as high as 14 volts or more when fully charged. That includes your "12 volt" battery. Did you understand and believe that statement?

Or do you think we don't know what we're talking about, or that we're intentionally lying to you?

It was charged about an hour before I measured it and it came out to 12.2. Well it's just I keep feeling I should think outside the box to improve my filmmaking and I was told do that as well. But every time I attempt it, I get responses, saying that's not good and don't try to bend the rules.

Josh the point is he isn’t mentally right and because of this it’s impossible to have productive conversations. This is just my assessment. It’s a moot point whether he is real.

There are two different, related conversations here (well way more, but related to dealing with him specifically).

Some are suggesting he's a troll.

Some suggesting he's "impossible to deal with."

I don't believe the first point, and as to the second, well, I'd say just tap out, then, if it bothers you that much. Don't respond, ignore, etc. I don't think there's anyone on here to whom I've done it, but on other forums I've just put people on the ignore list. See a thread where they're the OP? Don't read it. And you won't see their responses in other threads.

It was charged about an hour before I measured it and it came out to 12.2. Well it's just I keep feeling I should think outside the box to improve my filmmaking and I was told do that as well. But every time I attempt it, I get responses, saying that's not good and don't try to bend the rules.

Ryan, as far as the "non-battery" part of your comments ... that's getting rather philosophical and becomes a discussion about definitions and degree. "Which box," "how far outside the box," etc. I'm going to skip that part of the comments for now because IMHO that could further muddy the waters.

As far as facts about batteries ... there are a huge number of variables. For example, what is the battery chemistry (SLA, NiMH, etc.); what is the amp-hour capacity of the battery; what is the voltage and current output of the charger; what was the state of the battery's charge before you started charging it; how long was the battery connected to the charger, etc. How old is the battery; how much charge can it hold at this point in its lifetime? Those all enter into the question of "what is this battery's highest possible voltage output?"

Without knowing all (or at least many) of those answers, we can't accurately predict an answer to "highest possible voltage output." What I do know from many years' experience is the following: many types of "12 volt" batteries (including lead-acid, NiMH, NiCd) can often supply an output voltage that's significantly higher than 12 volts. Maybe if your battery is connected to an *appropriate* charger (because not all chargers are the same) for an adequate length of time, you would find that your battery also produces much more than 12 volts. (Unless your battery is old and near the end of its useful life and can no longer hold a full charge.)

Here's a good experiment for you, since you seem not to believe what we've told you. (I did this in 5th grade science class, but maybe your education wasn't so good.)
(1.) Go out right now with your meter, open the hood of your vehicle, measure the battery voltage, write it down (and whenever you log the voltage, also note the time).
(2.) Start the engine, let it idle for two or three minutes, CAREFULLY (be VERY careful of moving parts in the engine) measure the battery voltage, write it down.
(3.) Turn off the engine, wait five minutes, measure the voltage, write it down.
(4.) Turn on the headlights, wait 30 minutes, measure the voltage, write it down. Leave the lights on.
(5.) Repeat #4, writing down the voltage. Keep repeating until the voltage reaches about 10 volts.
(6.) Turn off the headlights. Start the engine again, let it idle for a few minutes, measure the battery voltage, write it down.
** You will see that your vehicle's "12 volt" battery has a wide range of output voltages. This is true of *every* battery (different batteries will have different voltage ranges, that's all).

What we told you before is that (1.) it is likely your new battery can, under some circumstances, have an output as high as 14 volts or more, and (2.) a voltage that high might possibly damage your recorder. That is simple logic, based on years of experience.

The fact that your new battery, at some given point in time, with some given amount of charge, measures 12.2 volts, does not negate the logic of that statement.

If you choose not to believe our knowledge and experience, or if you are unable to follow the logic, then feel free to hook it up and take your chances. We are trying to help you. You seem to be trying to find reasons to contradict our suggestions. It is honestly frustrating that you keep asking for help, and then disregarding it. If you don't want to take our advice, then don't ask for it.

Two questions come to mind.

(1.) (a philosophical question): Why do you keep doing this? Do you realize how frustrating it is for us to try to communicate with you?

(2.) (a practical question): What are the markings on your battery: make, model number, voltage, capacity in amp-hours, etc. With that information we can perhaps provide a more scientific answer.

Or, if you don't want to be scientific and aren't really interested in facts, then go hook up whatever you want, and be prepared for whatever consequences may arise.

Josh:

I appreciate your insight.

For whatever reason, he is obviously very difficult to deal with. I am puzzled that he ignores discussions about this, rather than commenting, explaining, whatever. For example, I stated outright that I suspect the "some people" who keep giving him bad advice don't really exist, but rather are just in his imagination; that drew absolutely no response ... no denial, no explanation, nada, zip. That lack of explanation for, or even acknowledgement of, the frustration he causes simply makes me doubt that this is all innocent on his part but rather to suspect that he's jerking us around.

As far as his alleged film making projects, I find it hard to believe that he can work with any group of people, on any project, without getting the same sort of reaction that he's provoking here.

Over the years I've taught a number of technical classes, and I've trained a fair number of employees. I think sharing knowledge is a good thing to do. Part of me feels that Ryan deserves to have his questions answered. But trying to deal with him logically is incredibly frustrating. It's hard for me to believe that any adult can be so obtuse.

Your suggestion about putting him on the ignore list may come to that. However much he may deserve answers to his questions, I (and, I suspect, many others here) deserve our sanity. I draw the line at letting Ryan infect me with his insanity. He is very close to being ignored ... if it comes to that, it'll be his loss, not mine.

Understandable. No idea why the more confrontational stuff goes unanswered but if he's anything like me perhaps he's extremely conflict/confrontation averse and will straight up not respond or leave a situation rather than get defensive (doesn't mean he is/I am RIGHT to do that but it's how I (maybe he) handle(s) a lot of situations).

And I know *I'm* not a troll. Or at least I don't think so. Maybe I have disassociative Identity Disorder. Who can say what I'm REALLY up to when I think I'm sleeping?

And I know *I'm* not a troll. Or at least I don't think so. Maybe I have disassociative Identity Disorder. Who can say what I'm REALLY up to when I think I'm sleeping?

Maybe Ryan is really your alter ego. ;-) Although I certainly hope not for your sake.