I called Panasonic technical support and they said all of their camcorders and cameras are limited to 128 GB cards, due to "video rights", whatever that means.

Well I've been using Lexar 256 GB cards in the DVX200 and AG-AC160 without any dramas since they came out!
Cheers,, Vaughan

I'm thinking of picking up a 256. I was recently filming 4k on a 128 and ran out of space. It's a weird camera the rec light starts blinking red and I couldn't tell if was going to stop recording or switch to the other card. The red light for the other card didn't turn on so I was freaking.

Thanks for the replies. Pete, if you try the 256 gb card on the HC-x1, let me know if it works, and you can use all of the 256 gb.

Thanks,

Len

SanDisk 256gb cards work fine. Been using them for several months.

Thanks. Have you been able to use all 256 GB?

Hi Len, I've never filled a card but certainly I have been close and well over 128gb before. I shoot with 2x 256gb cards, simultaneously Hope this helps. John.

Thanks John. I'll try a 256 gb card and see how it goes.

Len

Hi all, just received my HC-X1 and trying to do an initial set up. Having trouble with the white balance. Shooting indoors with 3200K LED lights. The screen read out says 3200, but the colors on the flip out screen are way off with weird color casts. It's not a problem with the lights because my Canon XF-100 nailed the colors with no problem. I have attempted to read the manual, but it is barely understandable. I changed to manual, and have cycled through Ach Bch, etc, but there is no improvement. Can anyone explain to me how to set the white balance so what I see is what i get? Thanks.

Perform a PUSH TO WHITE on A or B, to determine what that camera "thinks" is incandescent white. My Sony cameras think it's 3500-3600k...my JVC's on the same light think 3200-3300k. Once you know the kelvin, you can set a manual kelvin for PRESET.

Paul

Len, I like to shoot manual kelvin preset with LED's, simply because it allows me to have a consistency to add correction effects to the clips. LED's are typically either magenta or green in hue...3200k ones typically green. Whiting (push to white) off them makes everything not in their direct glare pink/purple. :-)

Paul

Thank you Paul. Can you tell me the steps to do that? I've read the manual several times and I'm not sure what language it is written in. English words are used but I find it incomprehensible.

Ok, did a manual white balance of a white card. But the LCD panel colors don't match what I'm seeing. The contract is a bit low and the red level is too low. Is there a way to adjust those? Thanks.

This is why I stick with preset kelvin for white balance...especially these days with off hue LED's. Try setting the kelvin manually, or even white balancing to a wide angle shot if the camera allows it?

Paul

SanDisk 256gb cards work fine. Been using them for several months.

John have you had any problems with the 256gb sandisk ? My 4 x sandisk 128gb 90MB/s (the gold ones) have been fine, they cost about £80 but i've just found 256gb version for £100.
My thoughts are that's a lot of eggs in one basket though if the card fails ?

Thanks, Paul.

If you film 4k or 60p you need a big basket for events. You also run the risk of losing card if you pull it. I once put a card in my pocket when pulled out my keys or cell it fell out. You could put it in your camera bag and someone could steal it while unattended. Point being there are many areas of risk.

I know all that, i just want to know if the cards 256gb work ok.

Thanks, Paul.

I'm getting significant latency in my headphone signal, sounds like it's going through a delay pedal. I have an external mic signal split in two and feeding both Ch. 1 and 2. Have done this before with my XF100 with no latency in the head phone. (The audio in the actual video is fine). Any idea what would cause this?

Thanks.

If there a large distance between the audio sources such as a concert its normal to get a delay. But I don't understand why you would want to split the signal from a mic. That doesn't make sense.

Thanks Pete. This was a test in my studio. The delay happens even when I tap the mic. So this is internal to the camera, not related to distance to audio source. I split the mic into L and R, gives a bigger sound and turns a mono set up into simulated stereo.

Len

Re the headphone audio delay, I found this answer posted by Barry Green at DVXuser:

"Don't think you can do anything about the video lots of processing before it is on the LCD, but on page 190 in the manual you can set the audio to be a live sound or processed in sync with the video to make it easier to monitor when recording a live event.

The LIVE option is to avoid echo in the headphones. The RECORDING option is to match the output.

There is some lag, yes. It takes a little while to route the video through all the processing and then to the outputs. If you listen to the headphones in RECORDING mode, it'll delay the headphone audio to match the video, but then you'll hear a distinct echo between the live spoken words and the headphone delayed words, which can cause a noticeable and distracting echo. So I always put the headphones in LIVE, to avoid that.

As far as delay on the LCD, it's about 3.5 frames. I set up a timecode generator on my phone, and filmed it through the UX180, and then took still frames of both the camera's LCD and the phone's display, and it showed a consistent 3 to 4 frame discrepancy between them.

3 frames is enough to notice a lip sync error, yes. So 3-4 frames, you probably would have been seeing video out of sync with the audio if you were viewing with LIVE set on the headphones. You can choose RECORDING; the only issue is whether you'll hear the echo or not. If you have headphones that do a great job at sealing out outside noise, then RECORDING may be the ideal choice in that situation."

bump this this thread up. Users with this camcorder are still happy with their purchase?
Is it good in low light? If it's better than my sony HXR-NX3 with 3x 1/2.8-inch Exmor that would be nice.

The 1080p is sharper than my sony.(based on youtube videos I saw)

The HC-X1 needs more gain but will be cleaner and still sharper.
(based on the sony NX100 vx NX5 I read here on the forum)

I don't need 4K but I need the 20x zoom for shooting stage events.

I ordered my HC X1 today, and wondered if anyone can recommend third party batteries for it? The list price for the largest capacity battery is over £400 here in the UK, nearly a fifth of the price of the camera.

SWIT make a battery that fits the DVX200 for about £100 -would that also be suitable for the X1?


Yes they work fine, have the same indicator on the back and also a 5v outlet

bump this this thread up. Users with this camcorder are still happy with their purchase?
Is it good in low light? If it's better than my sony HXR-NX3 with 3x 1/2.8-inch Exmor that would be nice.

The 1080p is sharper than my sony.(based on youtube videos I saw)

The HC-X1 needs more gain but will be cleaner and still sharper.
(based on the sony NX100 vx NX5 I read here on the forum)

I don't need 4K but I need the 20x zoom for shooting stage events.

I've had mine for 10 months now, and generally pretty pleased with it. I was using a Sony EA50 before this, and the 1080 on the HC X1 is much more detailed. I find I need to put more effort in to get the best from the Panasonic.

It's not great in low light, but considering the price I paid, I can live with it, pluse the convenience of the 20x zoom and XLRs etc

Not great in low light? Strange because the videos I have seen on youtube seems very nice in low light.
I know my sony FS100 will outperform the HC-X1 in low light but it's for shooting stage shows mostly and run and gun.

Sensor size and resolution have the biggest impact on low light performance the price of the camera isn’t always relevant. The fs100 has a larger sensor and lower resolution so it’s not surprising it performs better in low light.

I agree, I posted one in low light up to 12 dB, thought it was really acceptable

I think a lot of people have been spoiled by seeing Red and A7sII footage in movies and online, and get this internal mechanism telling them everything should look like that. Most prosumer cameras are not really getting better in low light, maybe just cleaner at lower gain settings, but raw sensitivity and s/n ratio drop as they add more and more pixels to the little sensors.

Paul

Not great in low light? Strange because the videos I have seen on youtube seems very nice in low light.
I know my sony FS100 will outperform the HC-X1 in low light but it's for shooting stage shows mostly and run and gun.

I was comparing it to my previous Sony EA50 (APS-C sensor).

Users with this camcorder are still happy with their purchase?
Is it good in low light? If it's better than my sony HXR-NX3 with 3x 1/2.8-inch Exmor that would be nice.

The 1080p is sharper than my sony.(based on youtube videos I saw)


Tom, I've used a NX3 quite a bit, and the and although I haven't compared them side by side, the UX180/HC-X1 is a quite bit better in low light. The UX180 is also definitely sharper.

I got my UX180 a few weeks ago and just posted a review to my web site.

Panasonic AG-UX180 Review - mike-warren.net (http://www.mike-warren.net/panasonic-ag-ux180-review/)

Here's a test of the UX180's 30x iZoom

https://youtu.be/mn9MOHZCsok

A recommended the UX180 to a friend a few months ago, and he just unloaded it because he found the gain to difficult to change in a fast paced ENG environment. Apparently, every time you want o change gain, you have to enable the operation....EVERY TIME. He found it infuriating, and also commented the lens was full of magenta/green chromatic aberrations. Was very good in low light though. :-)

Paul

SWIT batteries are fine, I have two, I got mine ( and the camera) from Pro AV.- a great shop

Tom, I've used a NX3 quite a bit, and the and although I haven't compared them side by side, the UX180/HC-X1 is a quite bit better in low light. The UX180 is also definitely sharper.

I got my UX180 a few weeks ago and just posted a review to my web site.

Panasonic AG-UX180 Review - mike-warren.net (http://www.mike-warren.net/panasonic-ag-ux180-review/)

Here's a test of the UX180's 30x iZoom

https://youtu.be/mn9MOHZCsok

thx Michael for this reply. It's the sharpness I'm missing from my NX3. When I just see the 1080p images from the HC-X1 is like you said sharper. I just read the review on your website. When you have time I would like to see the NX3 vs HC-X in lower light. Thx for your time!

A recommended the UX180 to a friend a few months ago, and he just unloaded it because he found the gain to difficult to change in a fast paced ENG environment. Apparently, every time you want o change gain, you have to enable the operation....EVERY TIME. He found it infuriating,


For me, the gain very easy to adjust. There's a dedicated button that switches between 3 preset gains. I have mine set to 0, 6 and 12 dB. Then, after pressing that button, just press the menu wheel once to engage full gain adjustment in 1dB steps.

also commented the lens was full of magenta/green chromatic aberrations.

I find chromatic aberration is very well controlled. There is a little purple fringing on edges that are blown out, but I've always seen that as a side effect of Bayer sensors.

Was very good in low light though. :-)

I guess that depends on what it's being compared to. I find low light performance to be adequate.:-)

Yeah, the push, push, then adjust, then push push then adjust again, for each shot, is quite exhaustive in night ENG, where gain is practically the only thing you really adjust.

After seeing some UX180 wide open video clips, I can agree the lens flares a bit and exhibits CA, but to get 20x 24mm bolted in front of a 1" sensor, you would expect as much.

Paul

When you have time I would like to see the NX3 vs HC-X in lower light. Thx for your time!

My friend who owns the NX3 actually asked me if I wanted to borrow it again over the Christmas break, but I declined. He's away until the end of January, I think. I'll try to remember to ask him for it when he get's back to town. You might have to remind me.

Yeah, the push, push, then adjust, then push push then adjust again, for each shot, is quite exhaustive in night ENG, where gain is practically the only thing you really adjust.


How is it done on other cameras? My memory from the old days is that there was a 3 position switch. Beyond that, it was quite complicated.

What SDHC or SDHX cards & class ratings do I need for FHD 50P. Pity can't switch straight to 100FPS by user switch. How do you go when switching ti Intelligent Zoom ? Pete Constable