Thanks in large part to the many great posts & insights shared over the last year by Lee, Noa, Steve Rosen, Steve Mullen and others... I have decided to buy this camera.

I will be transitioning from the Panasonic AF100 and am interested in building a rig with ergonomics similar to those I have enjoyed with that camera (using a wooden handle with start-stop trigger made by Olof at WestsideAV).

I am particularly interested in hearing from anyone who has rigged a similar handle (I've looked at the Tilta wooden handle, and the Kinogrip Grenoble handle) - about exactly how you have it attached and how you find it works with the LS300. But I would love to know any and all details about how you've rigged & outfitted anything else with this camera (baseplate, rails, mics, wireless receiver, monitor, viewfinder, etc.)

I have a lot of m43 glass, and shoot equal amounts handheld & tripod/slider mounted. I will likely not rig the cam for true shoulder mounting, but rather support it in my right hand (with a side-mounted handle) and focus etc. with left. I will probably try to get by with the built-in LCD for hand-held use, and will not be mounting a matte box.

Thank you in advance for details and pics you might be able to share.

If someone would tell me how to successfully post a picture on this site I will put up one of my LS300, which uses many "parts" I had created for my AF100.

Simply put, a lower than stock 15mm rail block (keeps the CG down) under the front on a camera-base size aluminum plate - the rod block Contigo makes for the Pocket Camera is perfect, but there are others like SmallRig.

A SmallRig shoulder pad attached behind the block to the plate under the rear of the camera.

A pivoting rod block mounted vertically on an L bracket off the handle.

An EVF (I use a Gratical or a Z-Finder) with a vertical rod block on the side, rods sliding back through the one on the camera (the eyepiece can mover forward and back and tilt for tripod work).

A vintage Aaton grip for the front, on a custom bracket on a rod block so it can slide backward and forward.

I realize this sounds confusing, but if I can ever get a picture up it'll make sense.

If you click "manage attachments", then in the pop up windows that appears click one or more buttons on your left to choose and upload the picture and then click the "upload" button on the right and then close the pop up window.

Have you tried it in that way?

Yup, tried it several times... don't know why this site doesn't like me... I've tried re-sizing jpgs to ridiculously small dimensions, still no luck. I'll try again later...

How about uploading to a cloud service and simply linking to it?

Try a different browser.

Simply put, a lower than stock 15mm rail block (keeps the CG down) under the front on a camera-base size aluminum plate - the rod block Contigo makes for the Pocket Camera is perfect, but there are others like SmallRig.

That's helpful, Steve. Would love to see pics if you're able to get them posted. I had been looking at the Lanparte Dovetail Baseplate with 15mm rods, but it looks a bit high - your point about keeping a lower profile & CG is probably a good one for me as well. I'm not familiar with Contigo but will have to heck them out. Was also thinking something like the Zacuto Gorilla baseplate, or just a custom build using an appropriately sized cheese plate and rod add-ons.

In any event, I'm looking at attaching the handle via rod-mounted ARRI rosette. Thanks for responding.

I'll try one more time.... Okay, the jpgs are there but not visible on screen, so you have to click on them... Can anyone suggest another way?

Anyway, this is the setup I've been using for several months, and it's perfect for me... Light, small, and very efficient...

I'm adding two closeups, cut from the wide shot. One is the $89 controller from B&H that works perfectly with the LS300, and since the firmware upgrade I can zoom smoothly during a take. This placement lets my fingers know where the ND and iris dials are without moving my eye from the finder (it's placed in the center, mounted off the base plate).

The other is the Contigo (ViewFactor) rod block that can be bought separately from the Pocket Camera cage they make. Get it with the available bottom plate and you can attach a tripod plate. A little pricey but really slick and easy.

The rod block is screwed below and to an aluminum plate that I made. It's the size of the bottom of the camera and has a 1/4-20 set screw and a pin for keeping it from twisting - it's one of those measure twice, cut once projects, but doable with hand tools. (I had it powder coated black, but you could paint it or leave it bare metal).

Hope this helps...

Thanks so much for posting those, Steve. Gotta say, that's a pretty badass looking setup. Is that rod block 60mm spacing (with 15mm rods)? I've seen plenty of pics of the LS300 in peoples' hands, but it still strikes me just how small it must be.

Re: your zoom controller, I assume there's only a single LANC jack for control on the camera? I have been looking at the Kinogrip Grenoble handle (which looks based on your Aaton handle design-wise) that has a start-stop trigger and optional F4 button... but no zoom rocker. It would be nice to have both the handle with controls and the additional zoom rocker, but I'm guessing it would be one or the other (though probably still able to zoom via the camera's own rocker).

Dave... I've tried several LANC controllers and not all of them work with every camera. I have a wooden movcam grip for the Pocket Cam that works with the LS, but it's sluggish and sometimes takes three or four punches to start the camera, or stop it, so you've got to be constantly paying attention.

The advantage of the one pictured is that, not only is it cheap and works well, but mounted where it is its comfortable for both handheld and tripod without re-rigging. And, as I said, positioned where it is it guides my fingers to the ND and iris wheels.

The Viewfactor rod block is standard for 16mm cameras, I don't remember the distance. I got it with the cage for the Pocket, but that camera looks ridiculous perched on top of the column it comes with, so I use just the block and the baseplate on the LS instead.

What you cant see well in the pix is the simple L bracket that is mounted on the cold shoe off the handle to mount the EVF. At first I was concerned that the construction of the handle might be sub standard and unable to support the Gratical... But I've been using it for over 4 months almost daily and its not showing any signs of fatigue... But I do take very good care of my tools and am pathologically careful...

I'm glad you got it working Steve. It's a lovely rig for sure.

Personally I just use my 300 naked in terms of rigging.
I rarely shoot handheld, but when I do I use a cheap Koolertron shoulder mount, add a Loupe and a wireless TX if required. Koolertron Black Hands Free Shoulder Pad Support for Camcorder (http://www.koolertron.com/koolertron-black-hands-free-shoulder-pad-support-for-camcorder-p-221.html?zenid=dlrd06g5g2b56ni5q8usn30hd0)

I've tried it with various cages and rails that I own, but it never stayed small enough due to my massive Vocas baseplate.

Is that a yellow cable tie end that you've glued onto the autofocus button?

Yup, but not glue... I cut the tie down to about 1/2" and taped it with black gaffers tape to the camera body under the button... I've done that for the infernal iris adjustment on my Pocket Camera too... Cheap, easy, works.

I should add, with the Olympus lens that's on the camera, I depend on auto focus often because that lens doesn't act parfocal on the LS300, although it does on the Pocket Cameras and did on the AF100 (same with all my other zooms, as I said in my first posts here).

As a result I set my frame, hit auto-focus, then hit it again to lock it. Sometimes I even use Face detect. However, auto focus often just plain doesn't work, whether because of contrast issues in the subject or problems with J-LOG or whatever, it just gets confused. I do miss the ability to zoom in to focus, and the Prime Zoom is a life saver - even though it's usually not enough of a zoom. Then I depend on the 1:1 in the Gratical on top of Prime Zoom.

Anyway, this is the setup I've been using for several months, and it's perfect for me... Light, small, and very efficient...

Steve - What's the make & model of that (slip-on?) microphone blimp/windscreen? I'm currently using a dead cat on a Rode NTG-2, but I like the profile of your cover & it might attract less attention (from kids & dogs).

Dave, sorry, don't remember the #... I've had that mic for nearly twenty years and the printing is worn off. It's an Audio Technica, and I know they still make a similar short shotgun. This old mic has been through hell and outlived two Sennheiser 416s (and sounds similar at a distance, although I love the Sennheisers close).

I did buy the slip-on zeppelin recently at B&H, it comes with a black fuzzy that I keep in the case. Just check Audio Technica mics on B&H's excellent site (even if you don't buy there it's great for research). The windscreen should be in the accessories section if it's still available, and then see if they make one for the Rode.

Here's my LS300 custom 15mm rails setup, installed on the detachable handle. This gives me 15mm mounting points for a follow-focus, LED light, and 5-inch monitor, while preserving access to the microphone mount, audio controls, and handle zoom buttons. The rear monitor mount weighs enough to balance the front mounted follow-focus. The single point of attachment to the top of the LS300 makes it highly convenient, allowing the camera to be mounted directly to a tripod.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e244/justafluff/JVC%20LS300%20Custom%20Rails%20Left.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e244/justafluff/JVC%20LS300%20Custom%20Rails%20Right.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e244/justafluff/JVC%20LS300%20Follow%20Focus.jpg

Steve - What's the make & model of that (slip-on?) microphone blimp/windscreen? I'm currently using a dead cat on a Rode NTG-2, but I like the profile of your cover & it might attract less attention (from kids & dogs).

Pretty sure it's a Rycote. I have the kit too:
14 CM UNIVERSAL CAMERA KIT: Amazon.co.uk: Camera & Photo (http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002Y16VWE)

The rear monitor mount weighs enough to balance the front mounted follow-focus. The single point of attachment to the top of the LS300 makes it highly convenient, allowing the camera to be mounted directly to a tripod.

Had you considered lowering the bars another half inch or more?
I'm using the camera fairly naked myself, although I've tried various baseplates, the COG always ends up a little too high for my Vinten tripods to cope with.

I almost started a new thread but I'll post this here instead...

The LS300 has a good, strong top handle mounting system, but perhaps they can sell an alternative top handle for those that need it.

Something containing the XLR connections but with a very low profile, lots more 1/4 and 3/8 threads, and maybe a 15mm rod mount?

The whole XLR section could even be placed towards the back for easier connection to an external mixer.
I'm thinking about this for the times I shoot drama with a sound recordist loomed into the camera, having the XLRs plugged in lower and nearer the back might be nicer.

If I need a handle I could swap back to my standard handle.

Had you considered lowering the bars another half inch or more?
I'm using the camera fairly naked myself, although I've tried various baseplates, the COG always ends up a little too high for my Vinten tripods to cope with.
If I lowered the 15mm rails, they'd collide with the handle's microphone mount. The hardware I had on hand just happened to fit the handle with enough vertical clearance. With everything mounted on the 15mm rails, the camera is definitely top heavy. I don't mind as my tripod can handle it ok, but that's why rails are normally mounted below the camera on a baseplate. My setup is a compromise, but I wanted to take advantage of how quickly the handle (and all my attachments) can be detached from the camera itself.

My current set up, with a NanoFlash.

Those Rokinons are big aren't they? Do they balance OK?

I have the T1.5 35mm Rokinon. It's not really as heavy as it looks. Compared to my Nikon lenses (17-55 2.8 and 18-200), it is relatively light and balances okay. It's front heavy, but I can live with it. The Panasonic 12-35 (see photo) is the best as far balance and handheld work.

I've got lots of glass, but the 12-35 is my usual lens too.
I'm considering a set of 4x T1.5 Rokinons (Samyang) with Canon mount.

I'm pretty happy with the sharpness and overall quality of the Rokinon, especially since it came free with the camera! I don't think that you could go wrong with the set.

I bought a used speedbooster so that I could use my Nikon glass. The lens that I am most happy with is the Nikkor 35mm 1.8. Combined with the speedbooster, the low light sensitivity is really good, and it's sharp too. I think that I paid about $175 new for it several years ago, and they're are probably cheaper now.

Speedbooster are much more expensive these days, but they are electronic devices.

There's some conflicting advice about which Speedbooster to use on the 300 and what VSM setting to use as they don't all cover the entire sensor.

But an older non electronic SB would be perfect for the Rokinon manual lenses.
Do you know the make/model of your SB?

Thanks for your replies!

It's a Metabones Speed Booster XL 0.71x NF-M43 mount for Nikon G lenses. It is not the Ultra version, it's one of the older models.

Though I haven't used the SB on a job yet, in my testing, it works well. It appears to add a full stop. Setting the VSM to 80% (MFT), I initially thought that I saw some slight vignetting, but on closer inspection, 80% is the ideal setting for adapting a Nikon DX lens to MFT.

OK. So an 0.71x SB but with 76% VSM must get you back roughly where you started? But with an extra stop of light. But you are also below the 4k setting?

I've suggest to Aputure that they repackage their new 'Regain' Speedbooster as a dumb adapter, as the base price with the electronics and remote is already very low...

I wonder if the vignette is caused by the adaptor? If so, perhaps a manual modification (Dremel) could fix it

Duncan, I edited my reply above, as I didn't see any vignetting at 80% when looking at it a second time.

Yes, I have the camera set to record 1080 30p HD and not 4K. I'll check it with 4K and see how that changes things.

I set the camera to record 4K and there is no difference, VSM set to 80% is perfect, with the advantage of the extra stop and being able to Nikon G lenses. There is no real -noticeable- focus or iris change when going from full wide to full telephoto either. It's there, but not drastic as with some lenses I have used.

It's a Metabones Speed Booster XL 0.71x NF-M43 mount for Nikon G lenses. It is not the Ultra version, it's one of the older models.
I use this model Speed Booster with Rokinon and Nikon FX lenses, 24mm focal length and narrower. There is no visible vignetting at any VSM level, from 43-100%.

Hi Lee, I am not using the Nikon FX full frame lenses. I am using DX lenses which are not full frame. I believe that is the difference. I can set my Rokinon 35 (MFT mount, no adapter or speedbooster needed) to 100%, but not the Nikons.

Jim. That's the answer then.

Most of my SLR/DSLR glass is full frame.
All the T1.5 Rokinons are full frame, so hopefully they won't vignette on the LS300 when using a speedbooster, but as speed boosters with a MFT mount are only designed to cover an MFT sensor there's no guarantee.

As Lee says, he gets no vignette with FF lenses.

All the T1.5 Rokinons are full frame, so hopefully they won't vignette on the LS300 when using a speedbooster
Rokinon 35mm and 85mm T1.5 lenses work on 100% VSM with the 0.7x Speedbooster without vignetting. Not sure about the 24mm lens vignetting, but it was noticeably less sharp than 35mm and 85mm lenses.

Hello Folks. I'm now the proud owner of five Samyang full frame lenses.
Obviously I'm in the market for a Speed Booster, and I want to buy the right one for LS300 full sensor coverage.

You guys have suggested that the 0.71x non-Ultra version is working for you, but I can't buy that one anymore unless I wait for one to show up secondhand. They only sell the Ultra version now and Metabones indicate that you need to crop the VSM down due to vignetting. This could of course simply be Metabones covering their backs in case some FF lenses don't work as well as others.

Can you confirm the exact models of Speed Booster that you are using successfully? Maybe post some pictures?

Another option is the new Aputure Regain, which is a Speed Booster with wireless control features for electronic Canon lenses, and is much cheaper than the Metabones.Sadly I expect that the ND wheel on the 300 gets in the way while mounting the Regain which has a larger footprint than other adaptors. I've suggested to Aputure that they could sell the optical section of the Regain without the electronics, I expect it would be about 300 dollars if they did. It would be amazing if it covered the whole sensor too, but I have no idea...

Hi Duncan, I have attached some photos. There is a number on it that I assume is the serial # (I bought it used with no paperwork). #3151005105.

HTH,

Jim

Thank you Jim. Very kind of you!
I'm moving to Canon mount lenses since I got these Samyangs, however I still have all my original Nikon kit.

Greetings. I'm new to this forum. This is my first post. I recently sold my Canon C100MK1 and purchased a LS300. I kept the Zacuto C-Shooter rig I used with the C100 and modified it for use with my new LS300. The rig consists primarily of the C-Shooter, with a Ninja Blade, Manfrotto 577 quick release camera plate mounted on the rig, Shape shoulder pad, and SmallRig handles. Below are a couple of photos of the rig.