Well I bit the bullet and decided to get a new EA50M to replace one of my aging NX5Us (I have 2) with a large sensor camera. I shoot both corporate (tripod or studio environment) and event (field, live run and gun) and prefer a camera that I can shoot right out of my bag without the need for a 15 minute setup.

I was deciding between a FS100, Used EA50H, or new EA50M.

While I loved the low light ability of the 35mm FS100, I couldn't get past the need for everyday rigging for me. As I still wanted a camera I could pickup at a moments notice and shoot. I do shoot a lot from a monopod, so rigging wouldn't necessarily always be needed. But I do swap often from tripod to monopod t handheld a lot in the field.

When it came down to a used EA50H and a new EA50M, I went with the newer EA50M for a few reasons.

I am already heavily invested in Sony, with FMUs, batteries and such. And I currently have a few decent fast EF lenses (Canon 50mm 1.4, Tamron 17-50mm DI VC 2.8, Rokinon 85mm 1.4, Sigma 20-200 3.5-6 (not the greatest low light) that I can adapt to the EA50 if needed with Metabones adapter. I really want to add a fast 24mm to the lineup. I wish that Sony had fast affordable primes, but adapted lenses will do.

1. The new EA50M comes with a better (yes shorter) 18-105mm f4.0 constant lens. this was important to me as while 4.0 isn't great in low light, a constant 4.0 zoom will benefit me in the field, especially fr wedding use shooting up the aisle for processionals. Once I go to a tripod for the remainder of the service I can either keep the lens on if lighting is sufficient or swap out for a faster lens. Since I shoot zoomed often with my NEX5's in church services I know that I am shooting with a smaller aperture than 4.0 so the stock lens should be good enough.

2. Sony is running a rebate offer with new purchase of EA50M, FS100, FS700 etc. where you get a free Metabones adapter with purchase. So if I was to purchase a used EA50H, I would still have to drop the money for a Metabones adapter anyway. So the cost would be getting close to a new camera anyway.

3. The possibility of an improved sensor. Now I don;t know if this is just typical Sony spin, but they claim a newer APC sensor from the older model. I don't know if I truly believe this as Sony could very well be touting image improvement by tying the 18-105 f4 lens into their specs. This is typical of Sony and others to pump up the newer models to entice people to buy the newer model. However if the sensor is improved then that's a great added bonus as well. If it's the same then I can live with it.

So I hope to report some findings with the new camera when I get it. A I know there isn't much info on it anywhere so many here are waiting for information on the new EA50M. I don't have the older EA50H to compare it to, but hopefully posting some samples up wil help some. And I have been talking with Jerome Cloninger lately on info on the EA50, which he still shoots with a lot. So hopefully sharing feedback with him will shed some light on the new model as well.

Congratulations! It's exciting that it is on the way. I hope it works out well for you. I like a lot of things about my EA50UH. I'm considering buying an EA50M but not sure yet. Also looking at another EA50U or Sony A7s or other.
Please let us know how you like it.

Congrats Bro!! Good choice... Looking forward to your feedback.

Michael,

You will love the camera. You made a good choice.

Steve

As some of you might have noticed I received my EA50M and have been getting used to shooting with it and putting it through a few tests. I have used Sony cameras forever so am very familiar with the Sony camera functionality and layout. But obviously there are some additional functions that I have it figure out.

Been trying out the Picture Profiles and I seem to like PP2 the best for general shooting as I get the blacks crushed a bit but still retain shadow details. For outside shots I prefer PP5 which is for Cinematone 1. Nice rich color and blacks aren't crushed as much as PP6. For lowlight I prefer PP3, however I puched up the color level +2 as it was a little to flat. I did see a PP for Robert's Cine profile and mihgt try that out on PP1 (which seems to be identical to PP Off). However if I do I have to come up with a similar PP for my NX5U, so I'm not doing too much CC in post.

Al in all I love the form factor over a DSLR that's rigged up. However I have to either get a counterweight for the shoulder stock and/or get a few possible support add ons as well. I am not going to spend the mone for the Vocus adapter, but am going to see if I can put something together from the local hardware store.

I still own a DVMultiRig that I used to shoot with all of the time, but due to the purchase Sirui P-204S monnopod with feet, haven't had the need to use it. As I prefer to keep a smaller profile while shooting.

However with that said I tried the EA50M with my Multirig and support pod and loved it. I didn't have need for the shoulder attachment so I removed it and was able to support the camera with the support pod and still keep all of my hands on the camera. Kind of functioned like DVTecs ENGRig. I actually contacted Danny at DVTec to ask him about getting the gimball for 15mm rods. I already own a baseplate which is a bit too bulky for my taste so if anyone has any recommendations for a low profile 15mm rod baseplate I would be appreciative.

Now as for the functionality of the camera it definitely seems to function better in low light than my NX5U with a fast lens. I recently got the Fotodiox ND Throttle to use with my EF lenses. I tried it out with my Rokinon 85mm 1.4, Tamron 17-70mm 2.8 DI, and Takumar 35mm 1.8. These worked great outdoors with the ND filter and let me tell you being able to dial in ND on the lens barrel is tremendous. Not to mention I only need 1 adapter for every lens. No filer with step up rings, no mattebox and rails, just the adapter and the lens. Now there's no electronics on it so no IS, AF for my Tamron Lens. But that's alright with me as this would be used outside on monopod or tripod anyway. And I prefer running the camera in manual when possible. I'll try to post some samples up when I get a chance.

I can't test functionality of my lenses with the Metabones adapter as I have to wait till that is sent by Sony as part of their purchase promotion.

Cool Michael

I actually push PP3 up 4 points and shoot both indoors and outdoors just on that profile.. at weddings you often have no time to change and when you start running around from sun to shade and back PP3 with lifted colour level I find the best all round settings.

Be careful not to add too much to the front of the camera it's gets very front heavy and very tiring as the pad is at the back ..the ENG rig with a sprung rod works very well but I modded mine so I have a full 360 ballhead joint at the belt end and just the flexi joint at the top. I don't use a standard rail either as it again adds weight to the front .. all I have is 2 x 1/2" aluminium tubes with a 1" plate at each end to support the rod and it's a featherweight and works perfectly! If you look back here I have some details on the post called "Saved by the Rod" .... makes the handheld camera really steady and takes all the weight off the front (at receptions I'm using a Sigma 18-35 F1.8 zoom which is a heavy brute and the rod is an essential!!

Rod mods are at : http://www.dvinfo.net/forum/sony-nex-ea50-all-variants/522969-saved-rod.html

Chris

Thanks for the info Chris.

I read that post but still haven't figured out how you mount the support rod to the camera.
This is why I was looking for a way to use the support rid and camera only. I still would like a way to mount the support pod and a QR plate tot he camera. This is why I was looking for a baseplate (QR pate on bottom) that was low profile that would allow me to use 15mm rods on the front. This way I could use the 15mm gimbal to mount on the rods. I wanted it to be simple and stealthy enough to shoot from the pod, as well as transfer to a tripod or monopod at a moments notice.

Danny from DVTEC and myself are friends and go back several years.
I asked for his advice on a baseplate and info on the gimball.

I agree whole heartedly about using a support pod to keep the weight off of the front of the camera and saving your arms. Also, the pods that are sold are too long. I had informed Danny of this several years ago, as I found that I wasn't able to shoot lower angle shots like I would normally do. As I prefer to get close immature shots by shooting lower at check level and not shoulder level. I was never able to shoot this way as the pod was always too long even when compressed al the way down.

Hi Michael

My rod has a flexi-joint and a brass pin at the top so I think it's much the same as the DV one and the pin just slips into a hole on the rail crossbar. My only difference is my "rail" is a light aluminium frame under the camera and the plate under the lens has a hole for the rod and the backend part has two offset plates ..one to mount to the camera and another for the QR plate

Yes all rods are too long and if you cut the tube and string it becomes too stiff so my belt has a bracket which drops the ball joint much lower than my waist so the long rod doesn't push the camera too high...the belt is around my waist but the rod "socket" is probably a lot lower to allow for the longer rod.

Chris