Hey Michael,

Only having three gain presets before you have to go to the menu is the single biggest gripe about design for most of us. On the good side of things I keep both the gain limiter on and the audio limiter turned on. I feed my cameras a lot of XLR audio in manual and it never clips on me.

The status button is also one of my favorites. it gives you a quick scroll through all of your settings. It is especially useful when setting up two cameras to match.

I use yellow medium for peaking and pretty much trust it. I like 4x magnification on focus expansion, eight is too much.

I sent my Metabones rebate form in two weeks ago. Their tracking system says it was approved and to wait 8-10 weeks for delivery. I will let you know when it comes to give you a real wait time. I have a lot of good Canon glass. It is awesome being able to use it on my three cameras. My current Metebones is a standard adapter too. One of these days I will add a speedbooster.

Steve

Steve thanks for the info.
I have always tried to do the same in regards to capping gain on both video and audio.

Normally I set the 3 gain settings to be what I consider to be acceptable shooting conditions, and take the highest I'm willing to go and set it 1 stop blow that. Then I set video AGC to be what I would consider to be the max I would ever shoot at. This way I have 3 settings and if I really need more can turn to auto Gain/ISO and get one additional stop of exposure. So in essence I have 4 gain settings and never get an surprises of what the camera might try to boost to in auto.

The same goes for me in audio as I always try to set a limiter to keep levels in check. Sometimes I might take a direct feed from a board or sometimes I might send audio wirelessly from a source to my camera. This could be board audio, mic with plug on transmitter on it, or miced audio fed into a recorder and sent to my camera for backup/sync audio. I am anal about audio and always double my audio up. So most all of my audio gets fed into a recorder like the Zoom H5 and then sent to my camera for sync backup. This way I can always monitor my audio om the camera while recording and if anything goes wrong I know it. So I can adjust it if possible and not have any surprises.

As for focus I always shoot with zebras and peaking. I wonder if having the yellow peaking set to eb high is too high and I should set tat down to Medium.

In regards to magnification I don't use it a ton but might get into the habit of using it to double check and not rely totally on peaking.

BTW do you use Auto Focus or even Spot Focus at all, or are you a totally manual focus shooter.
With my eyes getting weaker at close distances (which is why I use reading glasses to shoot with now) I wonder if I should try suing Auto Focus more.

Oha nd I'm bummed to hear that it's taking so long for the Metabones adapter, as they say 8-10 weeks for delivery, but was hoping that it could be sooner.

BTW, I want to contact Sony about why the EA50M has EA50H on the base-plate. I'm curious to hear their response. Makes me wonder if this is just a re-purposed EA50H with a different lens and they call it a new model.

Hi Michael

Peaking on high is much to much!! Never go more than medium ..on high it will peak on everything!!

I use manual focus only and rely on peaking where focus isn't critical like wide shots but like Steve I will always do a quick check at 4X expanded focus to make sure I get yellow peaks exactly where I need them .. I find that if you have peaking yellow on your subjects eyes you are 100% perfect (that's at F2.8) but even at F1.8 shots where I have the eyes yellow are sharp as a tack!!

I found, like most AF systems the camera struggled in low light a bit but in good light it's fast and accurate and touch focus is also good but still keep peaking on as a check!!

Nice images Steve ... I was doing a wedding last night where they had the dancing outside and at 21db there was no noise but I used a tiny splash of on cam light to light the couple as it was pretty dark. I felt that your image on the clip were mostly a tad on the over exposed side so was that you or the camera ..you probably could have lifted shutter and still got a good picture. It's hard to see if there is noise in the black areas on footage that's a bit over too. What is your end conclusion with the EA50M then regarding low light ... I don't think you did a 27db shot on the old camera did you??

Chris

Quick Response,

Michael, Both of my cameras say Model EA50U on the bottom. The original US designation was EA50UH and the H was often dropped but not the U. Does yours really say EA50H? I am curious about this model number thing to. At one time B&H sold tons of grey market stuff. They still offer some of it. But as far as I know they have always been reputable and declared it. I would love to know what Sony and B&H have to say?

AF does not work with Metabones adapters, at least not my Mark II. So all of my Canons are manual only. I do use AF when I can trust it. But this is how I do it most of the time to avoid the dreaded searching. I keep the camera and lens in manual focus and I "pull focus" with the push for auto button. I love that thing. It gets me on or close every time. Then I can change or adjust as necessary.

I don't use face detection. I have that preset changed to spot focus to avoid background focusing. I like to tell it where I want it to be. I also set the marker button to steady shot.

I am hoping the 8-10 weeks is not real world too. I'll let you know. The official documentation says we will get a Mark II. But I heard they are sending Mark III. Fingers crossed.

I was looking my camera over yesterday to see if I had any other set up tips for Michael and found something weird. With the new "G" lens the camera only offers standard steady shot mode, active mode is grayed out. I don't know why. Both work with the old kit lens, I put it on without changing anything to double check. Both lenses have optical stabilization. I wonder what the difference is?

Chris, Third shot in is 27db, I say it. its there for the comparison you wanted. Yes they are a little over. Almost every shot had bright light in the frame. Auto would have underexposed like crazy. There is noise in them, but when you add contrast to bring the blacks where they should be they clean up nice. In fact I left the part in when I hurry to catch the train and you can see and hear me over adjust and correct again to catch it. I raised shutter speed instead of stopping down because at 1/15 the train would have been a blur. I thought it would make you laugh. You can see that I do do almost everything in manual modes.

Steve

Steve my bad on the nam eon bottom of the camera. Mine does say EA50U like yours does.

I did the same as you and have no use for face detection so I also turned that into spot focus.
And yes I have always loved the push auto function on Sony cameras. I never run my cameras in AF, so full time AF on EF lenses isn't a major thing. As long as I can use the push auto function on those lenses then that is more than sufficient for me.

I noticed the same thing BTW in regards to steady shot when I was setting it up in the settings. Don't know why active isn't selectable.

As far as I know the 18-200 is the only lens that supports active mode. I guess for shorter focal lengths Sony didn't feel it was necessary? I really miss the SELP18-200, sold it along with my EA50...

Hi Steve

Thanks for that! I have had my cams over 2 years now and I have never shot below 1/50th ...I really must shoot a bit of footage at least at a 1/25th and see how it goes ... weddings are pretty slow moving events so I'm unlikely to get any blur! Even dancing is pretty slow but I'm not too sure if I could go another notch down as for us in PAL land that's only 1/12th ..would be OK on still shots but a bit scary on movement!!

Did you shoot any of the train moving at 1/15th??? I can't remember!!

My camera serial plates say NEX EA-50 only no suffix at all and they come direct from Sony Japan The dealer however calls them EA-50 H so I am sure the suffix is a region marker so the "M" model is still a USA distribution so they would still be a "U"

Chris

Good news Michael,

My Metabones is here. It took just 16 days. It arived FedEx ground.

It is the Version II. The current retail version is IV. Thats OK, they get updated constantly. That is also the big gripe about them. You can not upgrade the firmware yourself. You have to send it to China and pay $50.00. But I am OK with this one. I checked the firmware and it is V 40, my other one is V 30 so we will be OK.

Also, I do sugest you go to their website for information on the two operating modes it has. It did not come with instruction so unless you read about how to change it out of green mode it will not work properly. Green mode is the default and it does not aply to our camera. There is a way to get it to default to advanced mode. I did it to my other one. Very important to us but it is not on Metabones website. I found it somewhere else. I will try to find it again or try to remeber the process.

Now I can run all of my good Canon 2.8 glass on the two EA50s and the Sony G on my VG30.

Steve

Does the new model now have a improved sensor and do you see a improvement in IQ and lowlight?

Hi Noa,

Yes. It is different. I cant say for sure if it is truly a new sensor or if the factory tweaked the old one. I suspect the later. All of the settings for all of the presets are identical. The look is different, possiblely a little sharper and cleaner. Definatly pulls in more light. BUT, I have not seen an improvement in morie, still the same.

Steve

Michael,

Here are the steps to change the default setting on your adapter from green mode to advanced mode. Green mode has nothing to do with our camera. It is a battery saving mode for Sony Alpha cameras. If you do not do this you will have to hold in an awkward button every time you change lenses or start up:

1. Turn the camera on without any lens or adapter attached.
2. With a lens attached to the adapter attach the adapter/lens-assembly to the EA50 E-mount while holding the wide open button on the adapter.
3. Keep pressing the wide open button and let the camera boot properly.
4. While you still are pressing the wide open button turn the camera off.

Fixed, advanced mode is now the default.

Steve

I just did some testing. The EA50M is clearly a full stop faster (or close to it) than the EA50U.

Steve

Thanks Steve

Sony Pro here still show the EA-50H as a current model but sadly no mention of the M model!! I guess this is a USA only thing! Bummer I'll have to wait for the M series to be available over here

Chris

I just did some testing. The EA50M is clearly a full stop faster (or close to it) than the EA50U.

Steve

compared between the 2 stocklenses? @ Chris: here in Belgium you can buy the EA50M. The price is very interesting.

Hi Tom

It's almost the same as the USA price ... about 200e more !! I could get from NewYork for $2699 + $230 shipping so that's under $2900 BUT our Aus$ is miserable at the moment (about US$0.76) so it would cost me AUS$3700 + Sales Tax of 10% so it would be more than I paid for my EA-50H cameras 2 years ago!!

Chris

I just did some testing. The EA50M is clearly a full stop faster (or close to it) than the EA50U.

Steve

This is what I have been most curious about. :) If the M and U match easily for 2 camera shoots then it would probably be better to get the M rather than a 2nd U. Low light and easy matching are among my 2 biggest concerns.

Hi David,

It is a good news bad news thing. I am an old school fanatic about matching. I believe every camera on a multi cam shoot should be the exact same model. I don't like unnecessary post work and I don't like dinking around with profiles. Now, I do have a compromise on my hands.

The good news. The "M" model clearly picks up more light. Almost one stop. I say almost, it is probably closer to 2/3. When I put identical lenses, (Canon or Sony) on both cameras and test the aperture settings the cameras will chose, the EA50M comes in 2/3 to one stop different every time. Mostly 2/3 of a stop. I know my clothing test shoot is not exciting to look at but it is a controlled test. In that shoot I did NOT compensate for the "M", both cameras are at 6.3. That is why the exposure looks different, they are. So, in the future when I set up the two cameras I will be setting the "M" to be 2/3 of a stop slower than the "U". Thats OK and easy to do in many ways. Now that I know that I need to repete the test and make the exposure compensation so we can look at "match".

They are not a perfect match, here is the trade off. It is close but no cigar. When I get time I will try to show you some images when I have compensated for the exposure difference. I am not exactly sure how much different the match is. The reason there is a VG30 in that test is it is my back up cam and It gives me a small light camera when I need it. It has the exact same sensor as the "U". I is a very close match, I can go to post and let it it ride if I have matched everything else. I love that little camera.

I will keep you posted as I am trying to figure out what I have on my hands. Maybe I will go back in the studio and compensate for the exposure difference. Now I can also use much better Canon lenses on both cameras.

Steve

Thank you, Steven.
I'm grateful you have taken the time to test and share information about these cameras. Otherwise we would know very little since virtually no information is out there comparing the U and M models

BTW Steve and Chris I have a question about the stock 18-105mm 4f lens that comes with the EA50M.
F4 should be fast enough for wedding ceremonies, but I was curious as to the size of the lens for ceremony shooting.

I normally shoot with 3 cameras

CAM 1 right side shooting bride
CAM 2 left side shooting groom
CAM 3 center aisle shooting medium frame

Shots:
CAM 1: Shooting up aisle for processional, once bride is handed off I go to preset tripod on left, sometimes move off tripod depending on shots needed during ceremony. Move off tripod to get processional once B&G kiss.
CAM 2: Shoots processional from side medium to close up for groom and ceremony
CAM 3: Shoots wide frame when processional happens. Once I move to tripod with CAM 1 I reframe for medium shot.

My question is do you think that the 18-105 lens will be sufficient enough for shooting the ceremony medium and closeups when needed. I normally try to get my tripods at least halfway to 2/3 up the aisle for ceremony shooting.

I could use digital zoom if needed to get little more each for closeups. But is the 105 enough of a zoom or do I need at least a 20mm zoom for this. The issue I have with this is that most zooms like the Sony f4 are 70-200, and I wonder if that's too much lens on a crop sensor to shoot processionals.

Sorry for all of the questions, but I am just trying to get my lens selection in order for a days shoot, as I have one coming up in a few weeks. I currently have the following for lens selection...

Sony 18-105mm f4, Sigma 18-35mm 1.8, Tamron 24-70mm 2.8, Sony 35mm 1.8, Sony 50mm 1.8, Rokinon 85mm 1.4.

For a wedding I was thinking of shooting with the Sony 18-105 for Ceremony, Sigma 18-35mm for prep and walk around reception lens. And maybe use the 85mm 1.4 if needed. I would bring the Sony 35m and 50mm as a just in case auto low light lens, but most likely not use it, as I prefer a zoom for run and gun shooting.

If I was to add a lens at all it most likely would be a 70-200mm zoom, like the Sigma 70-200mm 2.8 or Sony 70-200mm 4.0. the only reason I would go with the Sony would be to be native E-Mount. Otherwise if the LA-EA4 adapter works as expected with my Sigma 18-35mm (will know on Monday when it arrives) then I would most likely go with that for the 2.8 exposure.

Hi Michael

It should be OK depending on your distance from the couple .. I normally try to be around 20' from the couple on my main camera and that has a Sigma 17-70 lens on it and that's plenty ... However I did a prior wedding and was about 30' away from the couple on a raised mound and at 70mm I still needed to use a bit of digital zoom to get a little closer ...the 100mm probably would have been perfect ... Despite what people say don't be scared to use digital zoom ..I often use it and you would only see issues where things like artifacts and moire are amplified ...I have never had that and it does give you 200mm if you need it

Chris

Chris thanks for the info.
I was figuring that the 18-105 dhould be enough, especially with the digital zoom for a little extra reach. I'm used to shooting with the NX5u which has about a 28-500mm zoom reach. I never needed to full zoom on it too often which is why I wasn't sure about the reach.

I remember you mentioning that itit's best to not go full 2x digital zoom to avoid softness so I'll keep that in mind.

Hi Michael

The only softness I saw was a shot from Noa which was a house hundreds of feet away and he then used DZ to get in closer so it was still a very wide shot and looked a bit soft. If I'm at 70mm and with a tight shot already on a couple and need to go a tad closer I see no degradation on the footage at all with DZ.

My typical use would be the cake cutting done at 18mm and as they cut the cake I tilt down and zoom at the same time to follow the knife blade and then reverse the action (tilt up and zoom out) back to their faces and I see no change at all in the footage. I can see how a digital zoom on a landscape shot might go soft but with closeups I see no difference at all. Because I'm running manual and things happen fast (like a ring shot) it's safer to keep focus and then zoom in as the ring goes on and then out again cos the lens focal length hasn't changed so it will stay in focus whereas if I attempted a zoom manually I might not have time to adjust the focus ring.

Try a digital zoom on an object in reasonable lighting and you tell me if you can notice if the object is softer compared to an optical zoom ? Obviously if you are sitting at 24db gain the DZ will amplify the noise so it will appear different but in my opinion it's very usable with either good light or a fast lens (I do cake cuts with the 18-35 F1.8 and often with a splash of on camera light too so their is no noise)

Chris

Gentlemen,

This is probably my last post in this thread unless someone has a question. This is where I am at with the two cameras. Last week I shot a gig with them and finally recorded a lot of footage. The EA50M is definitely a very improved model of the EA50U. That is good news unless you are looking to match it with the original EA50U. The EA50M really does have an improved sensor in it. You pick up about 2/3 of a stop in low light performance. But that’s not all. The image does have totally different look. It is sharper and more robust. You can’t describe a “look” in words very well so I will just say it is clean and beautiful. I like it. My initial comment about the LCD screen possibly looking different was wrong. What I was seeing was the improved image, I just could not believe there was that much difference at first.

The new “G” lens is superior to the old kit lens in every way. It feels, zooms, and produces a sharp image like it should. It matches my Canon “L” glass better than it matches the old kit lens in sharpness.

I was and am pleased with my purchase of the original EA50U. If you have any interest in a camera like this you can get the EA50M with a better sensor and a better lens for much less than I paid for the original model. These will be my last HD cameras. I have to say there is a lot of value there if you’re not already onto 4K.

Steve

Thanks Steve

I think you have said all that needs to be said and the comments are greatly appreciated. Matching wouldn't be an issue for me as when I change cameras I usually change both and sell off my previous units. For me that will probably be next year anyway so hopefully Sony here will have the M model in stock?

I'm assuming this is not your last post on the forum? just your last on this particular subject!

Chris

Thanks Steve - Interesting to follow this thread. I am thinking of a change next year and am undecided. If I did not need to buy a new car it would have been the FS7 but maybe I'll sell on my original EA50 for the new one. I love the look I can get from a large sensor but hate the DSLR form factor (and I've been using my A7s for a while now - still don't like it) which is why I'd never get a Canon C100/300 or a Sony FS100 - I'm too used to the camcorder way of doing things.

The thing that may swing it though is the 3 gain settings, I know it's traditional but is really limiting, the one good thing about the A7 is to be able to use the ISO dial to control exposure - awesome, shame Sony did not provide this in the new EA50 using the little thumbwheel :(

Pete

Hi Pete

Do you not use the EV function at all?? It's adjustable on the thumbwheel even while you are recording!! I find it really useful when I let the camera auto expose (but with a manual lens) at things like wedding speeches where the background is often dark or even black so the camera tends to overexpose to try and compensate for the dark surroundings over exposing the speaker's face!! Just a quick adjustment of the EV so zebras disappear work a treat for me!!

Chris

This has been a great thread! Possibly the best information regarding the EA50U and EA50M available!

So the M is about 2/3 a stop better in low light and also sharper....
So if the U with the kit lens at f/3.5 was shooting side by side with the M with the new kit lens at f/4 does the M still do better in low light even with the slight lens disadvantage (only) at full wide?

Hi Pete

Do you not use the EV function at all?? It's adjustable on the thumbwheel even while you are recording!! I find it really useful when I let the camera auto expose (but with a manual lens) at things like wedding speeches where the background is often dark or even black so the camera tends to overexpose to try and compensate for the dark surroundings over exposing the speaker's face!! Just a quick adjustment of the EV so zebras disappear work a treat for me!!

Chris

I use it all the time chris but recently I've had a few tricky lighting situations where I needed to lock the gain and had to hurriedly do into the menu as the presets weren't quite right for the situation, I was just comparing to my A7s where I very quickly spin the ISO wheel to the correct setting - a dream compared.

Steve got my Metabones adapter today, under 4 weeks pretty good delivery time.

I received the Mark IV however.
AS expected the Tamron lens that I have worked for the most part but AF doesn't function with the camera. Auto iris and IS work just fine though. the same BTW goes for my weeks Sigma 18-250mm 3.5-6.3 lens as IS and iris work but no AF. Not that this is any deal breaker.

Love the Rokinon 85mm 1.4 though. I can see this being a short zoom in some situations using the cameras optical Zoom.

Oh BTW just for the record I was talking to Sony about why Adaptive Stabilization isn't selectable on the Sony 18-105 f4, 50mm 1.8, or 35mm 1.8 OSS lenses and was told that
"Active Steady shot uses 2% of the imager (zooms in) and corrects for motion based on the feedback from the lens sensors and what motions it sees from the sensor and adjusts by pixel shifting the image (electronic image stabilization). Active Steady Shot works with the SELP18200 lens."

So the SELP18200 has the onboard OSS to run Active Stabilization but most of the other less do not.

Michael,

Here are the steps to change the default setting on your adapter from green mode to advanced mode. Green mode has nothing to do with our camera. It is a battery saving mode for Sony Alpha cameras. If you do not do this you will have to hold in an awkward button every time you change lenses or start up:

1. Turn the camera on without any lens or adapter attached.
2. With a lens attached to the adapter attach the adapter/lens-assembly to the EA50 E-mount while holding the wide open button on the adapter.
3. Keep pressing the wide open button and let the camera boot properly.
4. While you still are pressing the wide open button turn the camera off.

Fixed, advanced mode is now the default.

Steve

David,

I want to be careful here because I try to provide accurate information and I am still working my way around this thing. A lot of work I do is not with the kit I own, it is with high end cameras so I have not done as much shooting as I would like. But yes, you can forget about the SLP 18200 going down to F3.5 compared to the F4 of the 18-105 G. I suspect but am not sure yet that the 18-105 G will pare better with my ultra sharp Canon "L" lenses than the Sony SLP18-200 because of its sharpness. I will take 95MM less and have a constant aperture zoom "G" lens any day. The new sensor combined with the new lens produces a clearly better image. But of course you loose a perfect match.

Michael,

Glad to hear you got the Metabones and a Mark IV at that! Mine is the MIII.

A word of caution. I think I saw a post of yours saying your Sony A mount adapter seemed to get confused on auto settings, the Metabones will too (at least my MII and MIII do. I read an explanation by Metabones that says both adapters, Sony and theirs will flash wide open before making every auto adjustment. The even bigger problem is that mine ocasionaly get confused and can't settle on a given F-stop. The result is a constantly flickering image. It is a shot KILLER. The answer is to never shoot with the aperture in auto. At least that's the way mine work. Test your gear. You might think your OK and a shift in light or contrast can bring on the flicker!

Steve

Steve thanks for the feedback.

I shot a wedding last Saturday where the ceremony was in a church but reception in a barn with bonfire starting at dusk. All in all the camera performed well. My biggest problem was proper focus sometimes as I had to use the adopter most of the time because I wasn't able to focus well enough with my bread I Nguyen glasses and the lcd screen. As the screen is too close while shoulder mounted and I had to move my neck backwards to see clearly. Not c o comfortable in the least. Going to get eye exam on Wednesday so going to ask for prescription that will let me focus closer when shooting.

The flicker comment was in regards to running EV while running auto gain. The EV worked great most of the time, however when I was filming during dusk with me Sigma 18-35 f1.8 (alpha mount) and Sony LE-EA4 adapter the gain was bouncing back and forth from 18-21db. So my image was flickering. I simply switched to a gain preset and all was good.

BTW I knew what I would get but tried some low light shots during the bonfire at 24db. Definitely too much noise, especially with a dark blue sky as it wasn't pitch black yet.

Hi Michael

Are you using the viewing tube on the LCD to focus? If you do you need to do two important things ! Firstly the viewing tube is too long so the pad never sits on your shoulder but a bit in front. The centre bit of tube needs to be removed to make the tube the correct length ... secondly I can shoot and focus without any reading aids cos I have added a lens to the tube! Just grab a 52mm diameter closeup lens set and screw the +2 dioptre one on the top of the tube ..the thread is already there ..makes a huge difference!!

Chris

Chris I just recieved a 52mm close-up lens yesterday and the 2+ will work great.
I have 2 problems...
I was able to use the tube and focus well enough, the close-up lens will help much more, but I don't want to use it all the time. And if I was to use it all of the time I experience some fogging of the tube lens.

So if I didn't want to use the tube all of the time then I would use the lcd. The issue I have with using the lcd screen though is that I am farsighted and have reading glasses. I still can't see clearly enough with them as the distance is still too close for me with the reading glasses and lcd. If I pull my head back a bit further I can see clearly. But can't shoot that way. This I s why I asked in another thread about if there was a magnifier on the k CD screen.

Thanks Michael

So the CU lens causes the fogging??? I didn't know that !! I have had some fogging now and again especially in the evening and yes, I leave the 52mm lens in place as it gives me better dioptre range with the shortened loupe. I must admit I almost always use the tube as it helps for critical focus ... Did anyone try the credit card sized Fresnel lenses that fit over the LCD ?? I guess the only other option would be a flexible arm under the camera and an HD 7" LCD monitor that you can adjust to suit.

If I use an external can I get OSD on it as well?? I never tried a monitor and don't see any screen display options in the menus?? I would have thought the HDMI port sent out pure video only or can you add the on screen data too .. even stuff like zebras and peaking??

Chris

Chris the CU didn't cause the fogging as I didn't have my CU yet for last weekend's shoot. The fogging happened a few times with just the tube. Going to eye doctors today for check up anyway so going to ask him about options. I tried the Fresnel lens but that didn't work as the image was slightly distorted.

In regards to an hour external lcd I have ones that have peaking and zebras. I don't think that the camera transmits any data via the hdmi, at least not that I see.

Originally Posted by Steven Digges View Post
Michael,

Here are the steps to change the default setting on your adapter from green mode to advanced mode. Green mode has nothing to do with our camera. It is a battery saving mode for Sony Alpha cameras. If you do not do this you will have to hold in an awkward button every time you change lenses or start up:

1. Turn the camera on without any lens or adapter attached.
2. With a lens attached to the adapter attach the adapter/lens-assembly to the EA50 E-mount while holding the wide open button on the adapter.
3. Keep pressing the wide open button and let the camera boot properly.
4. While you still are pressing the wide open button turn the camera off.

Fixed, advanced mode is now the default.

Steve


why should this be done? i have the 50eh model i use adapter nex to ef canon for various lenses asks will have to do it and why?
what will change?

Sergio,

You need to be in advanced mode for all of the adapters features to work properly. On your LCD screen you will see focus distance and zoom indicators when in advanced mode. If there not showing your in green mode which is primarily for alpha still cameras.

Steve

Chris & Michael,

I have two 7" external monitors I use a lot. To turn data display on/off go to menu/display/display ouput/ and select LCD or all output.

Steve

Sergio,

You need to be in advanced mode for all of the adapters features to work properly. On your LCD screen you will see focus distance and zoom indicators when in advanced mode. If there not showing your in green mode which is primarily for alpha still cameras.

Steve you can post an example on image to see what changes?

Sergio,

I am not sure what your asking for? Put your stock lens on the camera. In the top left and bottom left of your LCD screen you will see indicators appear when you zoom or focus your lens. Then put your Metabones adapter on. If you do not see the zoom range or focus distance indicators anymore than the adaptor is in “green mode”. It needs to be in advanced mode to fully function on your EA50. Everything is explained on the Metabones website here: Metabones® (http://www.metabones.com/article/of/green-power-save-mode)

I hope this helps.

Steve

Hi Steve,

It's been a while and I figure you've been using the EA50U and EA50M together quite a bit now.
Any further remarks about how happy you are intercutting the cameras?

Hey David,

The EA50M is a mixed blessing. With everything being the same except the sensor it is NOT a matched pair. The images are very different in several ways. So what I got is one stop of improvement in low light and a nicer, cleaner, image. It just flat out looks better. I am not convinced there is a big improvement in moire and aliasing but there might be a little improvement. If I could send my EA50U in for the new sensor I would. I have ALWAYS owned a matched set of cameras. At least two and sometimes three of the same. This mismatch is frustrating for me.

The new "G" lens is a dream. It is superior to the 18-200 PZ in every way. The zoom speed is back up where it should be. It handles well and feels good. I do most shooting in manual so a constant aperture is important. It is so sharp it matches my Canon "L" glass better than the 18-200 PZ. I don't consider the 18-200 PZ to be a bad lens. I take it for what it is, a kit lens. But now I know I can not use it with all of my other really good glass because you CAN see the difference in sharpness when cut together. The "G" lens stands up to the Canons. If I want to run in full auto on both cameras I use the 18-200 PZ on both cameras for the best overall match. Or I can use two Canons and the "G" Sony matches Canons OK.

I still like my EA50s and they have a lot of life in them. But a EA50u and an EA50M are NOT a matched pair of cameras. If you were really good with profiles I suppose they are close enough to be dialed in. My color vision is not perfect so I have to leave fine adjustments like that up to other people. I need to dig into them but have not done that yet. So far I add a very little saturation in post and it comes around.

Kind Regards,

Steve

Hi Steven,
Thank you for taking the time again to explain all that. It is likely that you have provided the best information on the internet regarding the U vs M. I do appreciate it and that helps myself and others a lot.
I hope you have a great week.

Steven,

I'm thinking for upgrading to the M version. You say sharper image and a bit better in low light.
I have never seen your samples between the 2 because your videos doens't exist anymore.

Is it possible to make a new one or re-upload them? That would be great!
Just a sample in daylight and lower light if possible.

Tom,

I not only took the videos down I got rid of them. Every once in a while I do big data sweep on my hard drives and online accounts for housekeeping and data management.

The EA50M is an improved version of the original but it is subtle. If you are going to keep the one you have and add a second that is a great way to go. I love my cameras. But I would not invest a lot of money if you are thinking of it as an upgrade, you might be disappointed at the subtle changes.

The new lens is far superior to the old kit lens. The US price for the lens is $599.00 that is half of the upgrade. The other benefit is about a one stop difference in sensor sensitivity, thats it.

I also have a VG30 with the same guts as the EA50s. I fly it or use it for small and light work so I have a three camera kit I am very pleased with.

Are you upgrading or adding?

Steve

thx Steven for the reply. I want to upgrade. I already have the sony HXR-NX3 for fiming events/stage shows when I need lots of zoom. A little panasonic HX-X920 as second camera for that and for fiming on vacation.

The EA50 I used more for cinematic shots or run and gun. I have a steadicam with arm and vest now so a shouldercam isn't maybe not more so important. I was thinking about a second hand FS100 or a new Ea50M. Or stay with EA50EH I have and wait for something new.

I'm a bit confused what to do.

Bu you say I will be dissapointed if I upgrade to the M version? sharper image is nice and 1 stop difference in low light. Would like to see some footage between these 2 if possible?

As a former EA50 owner and current FS700 / A7S owner, I'm pretty sure that Steven is right when he says you'd be disappointed if you buy the M version hoping for it to be an upgrade to your current EA50.
Spend your money on something else instead!

thx guys. you are right. I'm going to keep thr nex-ea50H. It's still a good camcorder. Even the slow stock lens is good in lower light (just tested it to make the right decission)

I will wait when something news comes with shouldermount.