Anyone have any experience working with a YAGH on the GH4? I've searched and haven't seen any good reviews.

I'd be interested as well but presumably early days. Not sure either what there is out there to connect to it yet. 10 bit 4K 4:2:2 out I think but what to?


Ron

Good point. You can connect to the Aja Ki Pro Quad.

The Ki Pro Quad is the only thing that can record 10-bit 4:2:2 out in 4K from the GH4 + the YAGH.

I'm hoping someone will do a review of YAGH+Ki Pro soon -- mostly because I'd like to know how much of a difference it really makes and whether it's worth investing in YAGH+KiPro/Shogun/whatever else works.

Shooting the 4K from the GH4 out of either the YAGH or the HDMI port (with the Ki Pro Quad or the Shogun) will result in a far more robust, and far larger, 4K video file.

4K internally on the GH4 is essentially AVCHD (24Mps per 1080 quadrant). AVCHD as a standard does not support 4K resolution, so that's why it's under the MOV and MP4 settings, but it is AVCHD in all but name otherwise. So all the issues (or non-issues) you may have with AVCHD 1080 material will be reflected in the GH4's internal recording.

Going out to the Ki Pro Quad or Shogun will give you 8 times the bitrate, 800Mbps in ProRes, along with 4:2:2 8/10-bit (depending on what you set for your output). This will make the image more robust, no macroblocking during complex or heavy movement scenes, and more options for color correction in post before the image starts to degrade.

For me personally, a Shogun is absolutely in my future once the hardware starts shipping. I think it's the best option for getting a much better recording in 4K from the GH4. KiPro Quad with the YAGH is about $5k, and you'll be tethered via 4 BNC cables and require rails with DC power. The GH4 and the Shogun will be microHDMI to HDMI and both can be battery powered on the units directly. And the model shown at NAB looked really nice, and I love the options I get with the Ninja Blade that I also use, so I am very excited about this product.

I would suspect that you will see a plethora of 4K 10-bit 4:2:2 material from the GH4 as soon as the Shogun is in people's hands. It's rather difficult on my end to justify the YAGH + Ki Pro Quad setup.

So one can use the Shogun without the YAGH and get 10 bit 4K etc?


Ron

Shooting the 4K from the GH4 out of either the YAGH or the HDMI port (with the Ki Pro Quad or the Shogun) will result in a far more robust, and far larger, 4K video file.

4K internally on the GH4 is essentially AVCHD (24Mps per 1080 quadrant). AVCHD as a standard does not support 4K resolution, so that's why it's under the MOV and MP4 settings, but it is AVCHD in all but name otherwise. So all the issues (or non-issues) you may have with AVCHD 1080 material will be reflected in the GH4's internal recording.

Going out to the Ki Pro Quad or Shogun will give you 8 times the bitrate, 800Mbps in ProRes, along with 4:2:2 8/10-bit (depending on what you set for your output). This will make the image more robust, no macroblocking during complex or heavy movement scenes, and more options for color correction in post before the image starts to degrade.

For me personally, a Shogun is absolutely in my future once the hardware starts shipping. I think it's the best option for getting a much better recording in 4K from the GH4. KiPro Quad with the YAGH is about $5k, and you'll be tethered via 4 BNC cables and require rails with DC power. The GH4 and the Shogun will be microHDMI to HDMI and both can be battery powered on the units directly. And the model shown at NAB looked really nice, and I love the options I get with the Ninja Blade that I also use, so I am very excited about this product.

I would suspect that you will see a plethora of 4K 10-bit 4:2:2 material from the GH4 as soon as the Shogun is in people's hands. It's rather difficult on my end to justify the YAGH + Ki Pro Quad setup.

This makes sense. The one thing I don't like is the microHDMI port -- it just seems so fragile and prone to disconnect.

This makes sense. The one thing I don't like is the microHDMI port -- it just seems so fragile and prone to disconnect.

Depends on the kind of cable you get for it. Ideally, Zacuto will release a version of their articulating head cables with microHDMI instead of mini.

I can't speak for microHDMI as I haven't used it much yet, but I have yet to have a HDMI cable connection just randomly pop out, mostly because I pick my cables carefully and don't just run down to Best Buy to get them. Cage options are also available that will lock the microHDMI connection as well.

I have a YAGH for my GH4 , Ive only used it for power and AUDIO so far, and so far it works as advertised

Been using micro hdmi cam outputs for the past year
Rest assured these are not likely to pop out . they are very snug and secure and require quite a tug to get them out. Way better than either the mini or the full size hdmi
I don't trust the articulating versions

Good to know. Thanks.

By the way (off topic) I have tried HDMI to a PIX240i on 10-bit setting of GH4 from microHDMI, and the PIX only sees 8-bit. I called Panasonic about this but not answer so far. I've been wondering if the YAGH would be needed for true 10-bit out.

I don't trust the articulating versions

I don't see why you wouldn't. The articulating heads means any strain will be relieved by the flat base rotating in the direction of the stress. The Zacuto cables are quite nice, but the articulating end is only the full-sized HDMI. The mini end is right-angled, which is fine.

By the way (off topic) I have tried HDMI to a PIX240i on 10-bit setting of GH4 from microHDMI, and the PIX only sees 8-bit. I called Panasonic about this but not answer so far. I've been wondering if the YAGH would be needed for true 10-bit out.

Under "Motion Picture" go to "HDMI Rec Output" and select Bit Mode as 4:2:2 10-bit. However, keep in mind that with that mode activated, you do not have the ability to record video internally, even if you're just using a basic monitor. Anything you have plugged into the HDMI with 10-bit mode enabled will disable internal recording.

Under "Motion Picture" go to "HDMI Rec Output" and select Bit Mode as 4:2:2 10-bit. However, keep in mind that with that mode activated, you do not have the ability to record video internally, even if you're just using a basic monitor. Anything you have plugged into the HDMI with 10-bit mode enabled will disable internal recording.

Yes, I've tried that but still the PIX says it's 8-bit. And the picture profile looks different too!

Using an articulating hdmi connector is like using masking tape to hold a lens in place. It may work for a while or not.
Consider that the wires are cut from their properly soldered connectors and some kind of friction contact is used to maintain electrical continuity The whole HDMI system is tenuous enough without intentionally introducing problem areas
But I keep forgetting that some people get to take the shot again if somethng goes wrong whereas shooting live robustness is d'rigeur

Using an articulating hdmi connector is like using masking tape to hold a lens in place. It may work for a while or not. Consider that the wires are cut from their properly soldered connectors and some kind of friction contact is used to maintain electrical continuity The whole HDMI system is tenuous enough without intentionally introducing problem areas. But I keep forgetting that some people get to take the shot again if somethng goes wrong whereas shooting live robustness is d'rigeur

You seem to insist that there is going to be a problem, but, on the contrary, 4 years in of carefully selected HDMI connections and I have not had a problem (granted only 1.5 of those has been with an external recorder, but I routinely rely on external monitors for the tools they provide me). However, if you have a story about the Zacuto cables crapping out on you, I'd be interested to hear it.

I actually have had a problem with a connection. The SmallHD DP6-SDI would routinely blink in and out when connected to a HPX170 over the SDI.

No big deal
I just don't trust articulating cables in a mission critical situation.
Lets leave it there doesn't matter

I just don't trust articulating cables in a mission critical situation

That's fine if the idea of it unnerves you, but it's not cool to cast doubt on a recommended product if you don't have any direct experience with it.

Sorry I didn't know you were recommending a particular product.
I was speaking to the principle of minimizing risk.
Moving parts wear out and they usually do so at an inconvenient moment
Perhaps you would care to recommend a reliable means to extend a 1080p hdmi signal 150' camera to switcher as I'm in the market.
tks
Bruce

Sorry I didn't know you were recommending a particular product.

There is only one articulating head HDMI cable I am aware of, and it is from Zacuto.

I was speaking to the principle of minimizing risk.

Except your analogy:

Using an articulating hdmi connector is like using masking tape to hold a lens in place. It may work for a while or not.

was ludicrous, and, whether intended or not, seemed to be designed to mock the fact that I would actually use an HDMI connection in a professional setting, as using masking tape to hold a lens in place is a terrible idea and would make me look like amateur hour to any clients. Frankly, I don't think clients are checking out the cable connections or even know the difference, unlike a wobbly lens mount held together by noticeable tape.

Moving parts wear out and they usually do so at an inconvenient moment.

Your car if full of moving parts, and yet you rely on it to get you to set in the first place, within reasonable means.

Perhaps you would care to recommend a reliable means to extend a 1080p hdmi signal 150' camera to switcher as I'm in the market.

This is a logical fallacy known as "moving the goalposts." You have shifted from an HDMI connection between camera and recorder, something that 3' is usually more than enough for, to 150'. HDMI doesn't run that long, and so the question is pointless. You use the right tool for the right job, and in this instance, HDMI is not the right tool. However, your point about it not being the right tool in the actual circumstance we are discussing is born from another logical fallacy apparently, an "argument from incredulity". If you have direct experience with articulating HDMI cables in which they failed on you in a way that was problematic, I would like to hear it, because so far it sounds like you do not have any experience trying to do this.

I also gave you an explicit scenario in which BNC isn't as robust. BNC cables fail too, articulating heads or no. So the question would be, what percentage more like are BNC cables to fail vs a Zacuto articulating HDMI head?

Bruce

Why did you sign this post? Your full name is in big, bold letters to the left.

I'm too old for all this stressful heated argument
Please have a good life but leave me alone as I do not wish any further discussion with you

I agree that there is a dearth of user feedback about it. Almost all the information is from speculative posts before the unit was released, and a few brief video reviews. My 2 cents:

The YAGH requires connecting to the micro-HDMI port, which makes you wonder if most of its video section is just an HDMI-to-quad-SDI converter. If you have/plan on having an Atomos Shogun or Odyssey 7Q, it negates much of the reason to buy the unit.

Regarding timecode, since the YAGH offer embedded TC out via SDI, I wonder if Panasonic is using Sony's (or their own) TC over HDMI in embedded ancillary data packets... and if Odyssey and Atomos will have support, again negating the need for the YAGH. It's gotta either be in the HDMI stream or in one of the contacts on the bottom of the GH4.

Sad to learn that the YAGH's own micro-HDMI connector blocks the articulation of the LCD screen. Although if you're using a YAGH, you hopefully have other monitors connected.

The YAGH needs to be powered via 4-pin XLR, so better have your central power distribution system system figured out.

What I'm more curious about is if other companies are licensing (or reverse-engineering..) the ports on the bottom of the GH4 to make their own bricks, especially to allow something more compact with proper 85mm vertical rods-to-lens spacing.

(And as far as robustness of HDMI connectors, I'm not a fan at all. I've had 5 mini-HDMI cables for my GH2, and 3 out of them were crap. They were from random sources, though. The only mini-HDMI cable that hasn't failed me was the right-angled cable from MG1Concepts.) Some of the GH4 cages have provisions for securing the cable, which should make things safer.

The YAGH requires connecting to the micro-HDMI port, which makes you wonder if most of its video section is just an HDMI-to-quad-SDI converter.

Actually, that's exactly what it is.

If you have/plan on having an Atomos Shogun or Odyssey 7Q, it negates much of the reason to buy the unit.

Only the Shogun is sure. No one I have spoken to knows if the 7Q will ever be able to accept 4K input from HDMI.

(And as far as robustness of HDMI connectors, I'm not a fan at all. I've had 5 mini-HDMI cables for my GH2, and 3 out of them were crap. They were from random sources, though. The only mini-HDMI cable that hasn't failed me was the right-angled cable from MG1Concepts.) Some of the GH4 cages have provisions for securing the cable, which should make things safer.

Yeah, a locking cage helps, but the big thing is to make sure that the heads on the HDMI cables is as small as you can find. There are plenty of crap minHDMI cables that have heavy head units on them. The right-angled Zacuto to the articulating full HDMI head worked really well with my GH2.