Just picked up a C100 and am having a challenge with exposure. I watched every Youtube video I could find and have been searching for anything I could read. I know the lcd isn't good. I set the screen (backlight) for bright versus normal. I even raised the brightness to 50%. Both of those adjustments helped in terms of seeing the screen. I'm shooting in 24p WDR. I've used zebras before and know how to (typically) expose for an average skin tone around 70ire. However the lcd is really tricky. My first test shoot I came back and almost everything was very overexposed. For example I had a wide shot, sunny day, building and clouds in the background and set my zebra for 100ire. I backed it off to just the point before the zebras showed and everything was overexposed. I'm learning the profile somewhat of a (initial) challenge and I may have to rethink ire values as well as get some more experience with the camera. What's the best way to setup the lcd and for 24p WDR how are you using the zebra values?

I know the zebras and WFM are more accurate ways of setting exposure but I've been doing so much run and gun I've come to trust and rely on the simple DSLR-style metering. What I have found is exposing a couple of points to the right makes it perfect. See pic. If you center the meter it will be dark. I also use the wide DR profile which helps a lot with post. I have been working on several projects ranging from full Phoenix, AZ sunshine to an outdoor concert at night. Haven't had a problem with exposure yet.
As you mention, you just started using it so it may take a bit of time to get the feel like it did for me. Strangest part for me is shooting very clean useable footage at ISO 8000!!! Awesome camera!

Thanks Robert. I'm heading out to do some more test shooting. I'm going to try your method.

How do you deal with seeing the lcd shooting outside (and in AZ, lol)? So many different opinions from Zacuto (hate it) to monitors to that petrol hood.

Glad you asked! I have a Z-Finder…Pain in the arse but works. I have a SmallHD DP-4 with hood…bigger pain in the arse but works. I have a Ninja 2 with hood…same size pain the arse as the DP-4 but sometimes necessary when I need the Pro Res 4:2:2 220mbps.

I found a Kickstarter for a product called the C-Cup. Figured couldn't go wrong at $40 so I sent my money. Just received it last week and it is what anyone shooting a C100 needs. Fits as if it was OEM Canon!! Can't believe Canon didn't ship the C-100 with this simple piece of rubber! Remember the diopter adjustment under the EVF though. It's critical to seeing the EVF sharply.
Here's the link… https://www.shopstarter.com/s/C-Cup/

I was looking at the C-Cup but since everyone hates the viewfinder (don't like it either) I discounted it until yesterday when I bought one, lol. I'm trying to keep an open mind.

My footage improved a lot on yesterday's shoot. Most of the shots were right on the money with a few one stop over or under. I took your advice and shot like I was using a dslr in terms of the metering and the results were so much better. I'm not loving the dual pixel AF that much. I can see where it might have its place but for panning It's not great. I was tracking four people walking and it kept them in focus but the surrounding footage doesn't look right. Hard to explain the results but I'm learning its limitations as well. Cheers.

Hey Robert,
I have found that with the more modern cameras zebras at 70 often ends up with overexposed images if you are not careful. Even with my HPX 2000 P2 camera the settings I am using these days seem to be too hot if I see many zebras on a face when they are set to 70%. It may be the gamma curves but it seems like you should not see as many zebras on people's faces as we did on our old video cameras. Maybe the knees are not as forgiving. My office is near Abel in NY so if you are in the area maybe we can look at a few things together. And then there is log exposure. Glad to hear you are getting better at judging the exposure. Usually it takes a while to become comfortable with any camera. Good luck

Daniel…this is a "Robert" only thread! HAHAHAHA (just noticed that!)
I haven't dug into adjusting profiles yet but the knee thing makes sense. My XF300 had a quite different feel for setting the exposure and I had tweaked that camera within an inch of it's life! Kinda miss it actually!

Forget the zebras. Exposure setting should be done with the WFM. Keep it under 100 and you should be fine. Your sunny day test should have been set with Wide DR picture style (which you did) and the WFM for exposure. It seems to be that simple. I don't mean to sound absolutist, but I've not had any exposure problems by following that formula. I also have a Ninja and as long as I use the WFM I get great exposure that can be color corrected for final tuning in Adobe. By the way, I use the same formula (with a different picture profile) for my xf305. Try it once and see if that works. Hope this helps!

Hey Al, Thanks for joining me in the "Robert only thread" (Grin) I find every feature has its uses depending on what style of shooting is going on. I find Zebra's a useful tool when I need to see what I am shooting and get some info about the exposure at the same time. With my DSLR I use the meter. Waveforms are great but hard to look at while shooting active material. In my experience it is good to get comfortable using each function at the time you want it.

I don't doubt that's true, but find that light doesn't change that much from shot to shot in run and gun. If I use the wfm to dial in my exposure, I put it out of the way and focus on the framing of the shot. I assume I'm ok with the exposure. It's not failed me yet. But in theatrical that would be a horse of a different color, as the Wizard of Oz said.

I agree with Al - use the waveform; assign it to more convenient button. It's spot on. Of course I've shot for 40 minutes with my new C100, so you might not want to believe me - try it.