Hi Guys

Well I spent much time making a rear weight for one camera with just over 1kg and seriously the camera feels like a rock (I wonder how Tom manages with a Matte Box and a 2.1kg weight?

The centre of balance only moved back a small amount so for me it's not the answer. I have reverted to my new ENG rig version now that only adds a mere 300g to the camera weight and takes ALL the front weight off the camera via the spring rod going down to the waist belt previously mentioned.

Having an extra stability point at the front also gives you an amazingly steady shot too.

I think I will abandon the weights at the back as this is really a much better option and much easily from a weight point of view.

Chris

Having used the camera for a year I also would say your solution is by far the best if you have to shoot longer times handheld, I shot interviews last year with the ea50 and after a while I was really started to feel the weight and I saw my image shaking so I just held the camera with my right hand and supported it with my left arm by pressing that arm against my body and lean on that with my right arm. Not a comfortable position but at least I could keep it all steady that way.

Hi Noa

Great minds think alike! That what I was doing too but to keep things level I found I had to bend backwards a bit which was a killer on my back! You actually jam your elbow into your gut so your forearm acts as a stabiliser.

I don't think Tom will manage to do that with a 2.1kg weight plus the Matte Box! If only Sony had used the JVC HM700 design..that was brilliant with the shoulder pad near the centre of balance .. it just sits on your shoulder already balanced as they have a lot of electronics behind the shoulder pad just like an full ENG camera.

The spring arm actually works very well and you can get the Indian version for as little for $70 and the rails are another $110 ... still a cheap option which really works too!! Like my rail system the support is also made by Camtree ... mine is a slightly earlier version and I just bought the rod and belt and added my own mini ball head under the camera.

Chris

Reminds me of the DVTec ENG rig that I used with my full sized cameras before. My Sony DSR series and my JVC HD5000 and 5100. Those cameras far outweighed the NEX-EA50 when rigged out with Anton Bauer Battery, receivers (2) on camera light...anywhere from 18 to 25 pounds and that ENG rig made them feel like nothing. PLUS when at the far end of the lens I could hold the camera still for a much longer period of time. I wish I could make it work with my HM700 but frankly 99% of what I do now is on a tripod so I guess it doesn't matter.

Hi Don

Camtree actually copied the DV Tec unit I think and their latest version is almost identical at a fraction of the price!! I just got the rod and belt and the rest is bits and pieces. I used to have this on a little fixed aluminium frame under the camera but you do need to adjust the attachment point so the angle is correct for maximum effect, hence the adjustable rails now. DV Tec use a flexible pin under the camera but I found the ball head works really well!! My rod when new was a little sticky so some 1200 grit paper cleaned that up and after washing all the sticky grease inside the spring and tubes it's silky smooth now!!

It's hard to believe but you can actually make the camera front end a negative weight so if you relax your grip on the camera it moves upwards...I find it easier to have to gently pull the camera down to horizontal rather than have to lift it up. Yes you can have the front end close to feather-weight and that's a huge plus when filming a handheld sequence. My last wedding had the bride's grandfather come up and do a quick toast to the couple so I was handheld and he talked for 8 minutes!!!

Chris

Hey Chris,
Yeah with FS cameras the key is to be a bit back heavy so when your hands are on the lens your arms do the natural thing and pull down. The ENG rig allowed me to actually let go of the camera completely and it would stay right there on my shoulder. Great balance. Not that I ever really did that since I was afraid my camera would end up in a heap on the floor but I did try it a couple if times. ;-)

Yeah I could hold steady for quite a while. I never timed it but it sure beat the heck out of "moving" camera.

CHris,

I tested the 1.kg and 2.1 kg counter balance weights out.
I think I really need those 2.1 kg for better balance on my shoulder otherwise there is too much front weight.

The stocklens is about 700g, so front heavy. That 2.1 kg weight was made on feeling.
The person who made it cut off a part of a metal bar and give it to me if it was good or to heavy.

first it was even heavier but I saw this would be too much for the shoulderpad for breaking.
So I let cut a part of so it became the 2.1 kg.

On the other side:the mattebox makes it more front heavy but I can use my left hand and put it beneath the mattebox bars to hold it. That's easier than without those bars I think.

Thanks Tom

I did a long reception last night and with an all up camera weight of 6+kg I think I would have been dead this morning! I certainly would not have survived all the hand held shots without ending up with a severe back issue ... I used the ENG rig only and you can actually use the camera one handed too!! As you can see the rail system is the same as your one and if needed I can pop a matte box onto the rails if I need to.

Wow! even with my 1kg weight hanging off the back I could feel the discomfort and it didn't do much to lift the front end either whilst the ENG lifts the front weight to zero or even negative!! The rod has a large and a small sprung section (both adjustable) so you normally use the larger one to provide the "lift" so the camera is just a tiny bit higher than horizontal if you let it go and then the softer top spring section gives you tilt facilities.

I couldn't have done without it last night.

BTW: Just check your shoulder pad assembly to make sure nothing is being damaged by the extra weight! With 2kg on the pad I found it was bending quite a lot and Sony state that max load on the top of the pad should be 1kg only


Chris

Chris,

Look at my pictures. I think a "dslr" hand grip will my solution.
When holding my hands there I takes the weight of my shoulder.
In that position I can hold it much longer I think.

I've seen that solution on many camcorders.

I'm thinking about the Manfrotto video monopod as a solution. I'm borrowing one to do a test on a golf shoot, I'll let you know how it goes. I shot a wedding using one on a DSLR with a heavy 70-200 lens and it was great even on 200 zoom.

Hi Tom

My very first rig also had "handles" and yes they will help take the load off but you end up only using one hand as you often need a hand for the camera. I found that I still got sore arms as you are still using your arms to hold up the heavy end and often just one hand so it gets tiring but you will get quite steady shots with grip points on the two handles.

Obviously if you use the handles you can drop the end weight too because some of the 2kg at the back is still transferred to the front. Seriously I think you would be really happy with the Camtree rod support and you can get one for less than you paid for your rail (I think they are listed for $70) and also come with a fitting that slides directly onto your rails.

Dave ? A monopod makes sense but my only issue is that you are stuck with a fixed height .. the rod system allows you to raise and lower the camera simply by moving it as if the rod wasn't there which is awesome but obviously a monopod firmly on the floor is super stable. I looked at my footage from last night, right at the end when I was physically exhausted and sheesh, it's STILL rock steady with no wobbles even at midnight!!!

Guys? The thing we REALLY need is a transverse stedicam arm clipped into a vest that would allow the camera to raise and lower via two cantilever arms ..the only issue I find with the support rod is it isn't as smooth when I walk with it as with a normal walking motion you tend to sway slightly from side to side. I shot last night handheld from 6pm to midnight (obviously with breaks) but amassed close to 2 hours of footage all handheld and all looks good.

My rod/waist belt is simply a nylon belt with a "pocket" in the front and the sprung rod goes up to a ball head and the other end is locked onto the rail system. Now, the new Camtree one just has a spring loaded pin at the top at the rail but there is a ball and socket down at your waist on the belt...I wonder if that might be better ..ie: allow the base of the rod near your waist to swivel and then just a minor amount of movement near the camera...with mine the top allows all the movement and the bottom is fixed....Hmmm maybe I should put a ball head at the other end too???

Seriously Tom, I would rather look at the sprung rod and belt ....if leaves you hands free which the handles don't and you are lifting zero camera weight....After shooting for 10 minutes when I "unhitch" the rod I'm quite amazed how heavy the camera suddenly is ....I reckon it's a steal for the price!!

Chris

This is what you guys need:

Easyrig Mini demonstration - YouTube

This is the one for shoulder mount cameras.

Easyrig 2,5 (Ergonomic Camera Support) - YouTube

Thanks Noa ... You forgot to mention that the model in this video costs more than the EA-50!!!! Ouch they are pricey!! On the 50 with accessories we would need the bigger model more than likely and it's well over $3000 at B&H so in Australia it would be even more !! Hopefully it doesn't extend any higher than a normal height door frame???

OK I know I'm not using the EA50 but I've used everything support you all mentioned other than the one Noa mentioned in the last post. That was commonly referred to as the "Turtle Rig" when it was first developed and sold. There are a lot of them out thee and they are still in use.

I've used the DVTec "MultiRig" which had the 2 handles and a spring rod that fit into a pouch. I used that with small form factor cameras IE PD150/170/Z1 and numerous others. It worked GREAT! I would generally set up a Varizoom Stealth LANC on one of the handles which I could use to control zoom/focus. I could hold a steady shot on the long end of the lens for quite a while AND with my wireless receiver on the back of the rig for which there was a special plate, it balanced out pretty well. I sold it when I bought the HM700 to my friend who uses it with his 5DMKlll.
I also used and still have a Manfrotto 562 (I think) monopod that I've used with both small and full sized cams. It was kind of a problem, only because I got locked into one height.
I still have my DVTec ENG rig for full sized cams that works like BUTTER. Hand's on the camera and weight off my arms. I've seen a number of guys who shoot golf, following the players that use similar setups probably by Varizoom which used to be made and might still be by DVTec.
I loved using the ENGRig and the Multirig more than the monopod except for getting "aerial" shots. Then the monopod was great.
We all have our favorite tools.

You forgot to mention that the model in this video costs more than the EA-50!!!!

How much is your back worth? :) I just got a vision getting stuck in the chandelier with that thing, but by the looks of it it does take all the weight from your hands

Hi Tom

My very first rig also had "handles" and yes they will help take the load off but you end up only using one hand as you often need a hand for the camera. I found that I still got sore arms as you are still using your arms to hold up the heavy end and often just one hand so it gets tiring but you will get quite steady shots with grip points on the two handles.

Obviously if you use the handles you can drop the end weight too because some of the 2kg at the back is still transferred to the front. Seriously I think you would be really happy with the Camtree rod support and you can get one for less than you paid for your rail (I think they are listed for $70) and also come with a fitting that slides directly onto your rails.

Dave ? A monopod makes sense but my only issue is that you are stuck with a fixed height .. the rod system allows you to raise and lower the camera simply by moving it as if the rod wasn't there which is awesome but obviously a monopod firmly on the floor is super stable. I looked at my footage from last night, right at the end when I was physically exhausted and sheesh, it's STILL rock steady with no wobbles even at midnight!!!

Guys? The thing we REALLY need is a transverse stedicam arm clipped into a vest that would allow the camera to raise and lower via two cantilever arms ..the only issue I find with the support rod is it isn't as smooth when I walk with it as with a normal walking motion you tend to sway slightly from side to side. I shot last night handheld from 6pm to midnight (obviously with breaks) but amassed close to 2 hours of footage all handheld and all looks good.

My rod/waist belt is simply a nylon belt with a "pocket" in the front and the sprung rod goes up to a ball head and the other end is locked onto the rail system. Now, the new Camtree one just has a spring loaded pin at the top at the rail but there is a ball and socket down at your waist on the belt...I wonder if that might be better ..ie: allow the base of the rod near your waist to swivel and then just a minor amount of movement near the camera...with mine the top allows all the movement and the bottom is fixed....Hmmm maybe I should put a ball head at the other end too???

Seriously Tom, I would rather look at the sprung rod and belt ....if leaves you hands free which the handles don't and you are lifting zero camera weight....After shooting for 10 minutes when I "unhitch" the rod I'm quite amazed how heavy the camera suddenly is ....I reckon it's a steal for the price!!

Chris

Chris,

Mostly I shoot handheld and tripod on the same project. Switch from tripod back to handheld ...
So I'm gonna try some handles. They are cheap to try. The bars I already have from the camtree rod system.
Sometimes I need one hand on the camera but one (left) hand on the handle is better than nothing.

Great Tom

Some things work for some people and not for others ... for me the support rod works the best and for you the handles work the best.

I have actually ordered the new model Camtree Support rod now as it has a better belt and a ball joint at the front of the belt instead of just a pocket. They are on special at the moment for only $65 for everything so I figured it was easier to pay that than run around trying to make a fitting for the existing belt..they also give you the fitting that slides right onto the QR rails.

Let us know how you find the front handles ? When I had my Panasonic AC-130's I made a shoulder rig and gave it two front handles ..with two hands it was really stable and perfect if you are shooting in full auto and it's a long hand hold too. Once you have them and have to hold an extra long time, try digging your elbows into your body too ...makes holding a bit easier!!

BTW: I cut the protrusions off on the sides of my QR rail ..they get in the way! especially on the handgrip side ...the big "U" shape one on the left of the camera also gets in the way and is to support DSLR's so no use for me..camera is more comfortable now too!!

Chris

Right here is the perfect situation for Tom ..using both a rod and handles..you couldn't have any better support handheld than this surely?

Chris

Looks like a knockoff of the DVTEC DVMultirig. I loved it with small form factor cameras.

Hi Don

They are all knockoffs!! My Indian stedicam (it's a Flycam 5500) was an exactly copy of the G-series by Tiffen at a fraction of the price ..even the arm bones are identical in size! They stopped producing it (probably after a bit of pressure) and changed the design enough to start up again. If you take DVTec's ENG rig which sells for around $600 with a rail system .. you can buy a Camtree rail from India for $110 and the spring arm (the new one looks exactly like DVTec's one) for a mere $65.00

As far as I can remember the Multirig did fold up didn't it ...I don't think these one's do! Having shoulder mount cameras I luckily don't need any rigs and with my Panasonics I made my own rigs. However again you can but these rigs for about 50% the cost or even less than a DV Multirig ... labour costs over there are very low!

Chris

Chris,
actually the Multirig did fold up. For small form factor cams it was a treat, at least as far as I'm concerned. One reason it was costly is the quality was top notch and at the time it came out there really wasn't anything else like it. Like I said before, I sold it when I got the HM700 since I knew I wouldn't be using it anymore but it was a great tool to have.
Since almost everything I'm shooting now is tripod based, I have to say, I like being tethered to one place. And my shoulder doesn't get worn out. ;-)

Hey Don

I'm not so lucky!! Apart from speeches at the reception, I'm entirely hand held so the relief of having some front weight off the camera makes a huge difference. Remember the EA-50 has the pad at the end so you are holding all the weight. The HM700 has the pad right over the centre of balance! I bet you could almost dump it on your shoulder and hold it with one finger!! My footage at reception on the B-Cam is often close to 60 minutes worth and that's all handheld. The A-Cam just does the speeches!!

The DVTec rig was awesome ..you could fold it up and toss it in a bag if you were not using it plus it had so many configurations too

Chris

Well, It's not really balanced that well. I have my receiver on the back end and have it close but not quite as good as I'd like. Keep in mind though, I'm not shooting weddings anymore. None. Zip, Nada, Nyet....I'm shooting a lot of talking heads. Sit downs, 1 person, 2 small LED lights, camera and that's about it. I love it! PLUS I don't have to edit. I load the footage off to the show producers laptop OR I hand over the SDHC card that they supply and I'm done. I'm in heaven! I'm selling off a bunch of my unused, unneeded gear and that money is going to our cruise fund! One coming up in May, another in Novermber and one for next March. there might be a couple inbetween. BTW, my son LOVED AUS (Sydney) except he felt it was kinda expensive but as he said, why not...I might not ever get there again! He really had a good time.
Anyway, I'm off to meet up with a friend for breakfast. See you later!

Right here is the perfect situation for Tom ..using both a rod and handles..you couldn't have any better support handheld than this surely?

Chris

I believe this will be a perfect solution but is too much for me. I will try now only with handles.
You have lot of handles. In picture they use a "pistol" handle. (only 1 in the picture but I want 2)

Does it matter if choose a pistol handle or a normal handle?

here is the picture

That doesn't look very practical to me, are you going to use it in this set up or are you going to add that suspension rod Chris has mentioned as well? I don't see what benefit this handle has as you can't reach your lens or any controls on the left side of the camera anymore. You could let the handle go to reach for the controls but you"ll likely get a unstable image while doing that.

Not going to add that suspension Chris mentioned.
If let go the handle for reaching the controls maybe I get unstable image. Maybe or maybe not.
Still have the counter weight in this case.

But filmed outside in full auto (just missed the nd filter that time) So no need for controls.

Filming with the prime It is mostly the focus ring I need to control.

here you have "swing away" rod clamps from SHAPE.

Hands On: Shape Double Quick Handle Rosette System on Vimeo

that's looks perfect for me. On the tripod you click the clamps away. much cooler and easier.

But the shape is expensive. Are there cheaper out there with this system?

The pistol grip really does look cheap and nasty!! If you are hand holding for a considerable time you need handles with a soft grip. With my Panny's I also found, as Noa says, you get a wobble when you let go one grip to make adjustments. I really cannot see the point of handles with a shoulder mount camera where you already have a shoulder pad.

It will just make everything big and bulky. Just look at it this way ... dump the matte box, the rails and all the weights and your camera is back to a respectable 2.7kg!! OK, it won't look as cool as it does now but it will be manageable and people won't think you are from the TV station. If the looks are important to you then keep everything and by all means try some handles. You can get a handle set from Camtree that will fit your current rails and they can swivel too and fold when you on tripod ..I think I saw those for $157.00??

All I'm using is the camtree QR rail so I can hook in the support arm when I need it and it really works well for me...not as cools as fancy matte boxes and handles but it's practical

Chris

Chris,

For test I detached the mattebox, this weighs 1.3 kg! Even without the mattebox I need a counterbalance weight. It's front heavy with the stocklens without mattebox. (like Noa said me)

Looks important? It look's so nice with the camtree mattebox! Without it it's an ugly camcorder now (LOL)

I will give some handles a try. But will long handles gives a better balance. I mean: Will my position of the body better with longer handles? I really can't test this out.

wow, i just found handle grip from manfrotto. Not too expensive.

SYMPLA Adjustable Handles With Ball Swivel Joints MVA518W - Components | Manfrotto (http://www.manfrotto.com/sympla-adjustable-handles-with-ball-swivel-joints-mva518w)

Hi Tom

Yeah it does look very professional with the matte box on the camera ...I still have one Camtree Box but I put it on ebay as I doubt whether I'll ever use it...Don't want to add extra weight. The other problem is that the fabric shroud of the matte box restricts access to the kens rings too so using manual lenses is tricky and awkward! With handles your arms will start to ache whether the handles are long or short unless you test long handle rigs that will allow you to have your elbows hard up against your body which would make far less arm fatigue !!

Hope the handles work for you ... make sure the Manfrotto will fit your current QR rails though ..it would be silly to have to buy a new rail system too. I made my own handles with some aluminium square tubes and pushed on some bicycle foam handgrips ...worked well on my Panasonic cameras too!!

I still think the support rod is a way better option as all the front weight is taken by your hips via the belt ... I can work all night without any issues! However we all have different choices

Chris

Chris would you say that support rod would be a benefit for crowded evening receptions? I use my 5D rig with a chest pad for support but it kills my back by the end of the night - It looks lime it comes with the belt as well?

Wow that Camtree support rod/belt is $65 which should equate to £36 but the cheapest I can find in UK is £80 which equates to $143 - The great british rip off - oh well I suppose my back is worth it :/

Hi Pete

As simple as it is it's a GEM!! Doesn't matter how crowded it is it only runs from under the cam to your waist and you will be quite amazed how rock solid your handheld footage becomes! I actually have two but got the newer model cos I liked the ball joint underneath .... It takes ALL the weight off your back and onto your hips via the belt and eureka ..no back pain at all!! Last Saturday I made a point of keeping the belt on and my back was perfectly normal at the end of a long night!!

Why not order direct from Cine City?? That's what I do ...you can also just email Sales and tell them what you want (I deal with Sarita) and mine was US$65 plus US$32 for shipping ...came to AUS$97.00 in total with courier delivery to my door!!

You have an EA-50 right?? If so have you shortened the view tube yet?? It's an absolute essential as it moves the pad into the correct position on your shoulder ..makes a massive difference too ..both my cams have shortened tubes!!

Apart from that order a rod support ..you will not regret it!! It's basically a copy of the DVTec ENG rig in the USA that sells for over $500!!!

Chris

Yes I have my EA50 Chris but I would need this for my 5D rig (pictured) for use at evening receptions - even with a fast lens I find the EA50 cannot cope without the aid of a light - the 5D pretty much sees in the dark :)

Hi Pete

That's a front heavy rig so it will be a huge help. My Panasonic rig when I had AC-130's was close to what you have there and your arms also get sore because you are carrying the camera weight and it's being transferred to your back. With a rod support you could keep the handles or not even use them and your hands are now free to do important stuff and not just load carriers!!

I'm doing a wedding in a couple of hours and even use the waist belt for prep video!! It just gives you a much more stable picture!

Chris

Chris,

I have my manfrotto handles/ These are the best handles for price/quality I suppose. It takes about 3 seconds to attach or detach them from the camtree 15mm rods.

I have to test further which is the best position on the rods. (can place it also behind the mattebox)
I will make a movie of it later. At this moment I don't use a counter weight.

thx

You have an EA-50 right?? If so have you shortened the view tube yet?? It's an absolute essential as it moves the pad into the correct position on your shoulder ..makes a massive difference too ..both my cams have shortened tubes!!
Chris

How do I do this Chris?

OK Found the details - seems a bit scary

Hi Pete

Not at all!! It's really really simple ..undo the 4 screws at the LCD end of the tube and wiggle out the plate, undo the next 4 screws and the middle tube comes out ...put the plate and 4 screws back in the flip part end and then put the middle section to one side and fit the loupe together without the middle and put a lick of black insulation tape over the join. It really takes a whole 5 minutes!!!

Chris

Hey Tom

That looks quite neat!! Let us know how practical it is to use. I often have manual lenses on the camera so I need my right hand under the strap and my left hand to adjust focus etc etc so the handles wouldn't ne practical for me. If you are shooting in full auto, then of course, you can hit record and grab both handles and go ... you have to drop one hand to zoom and start/stop

To be honest I found my arms got quite sore holding up the camera but you are younger and fitter. With my support rod both my hands are free and there is no strain at all on my arms as your hips take all the load. For me it works but may not work for you?

You will find that you can get nice steady footage with the handles too!! I was reviewing footage I did last night at a wedding where I was 90% handheld and it's hard to see any loss of stability ...looks like it's on a tripod.

Chris

Chris,

manfrotto sympla handles on Vimeo

very quick movie. My wife was so kind to test it out.

Thx for sharing Tom, although you should get more stable images shooting with these handles but when seeing it in action that looks like a very uncomfortable position to handhold the camera for extended periods, I really think you need that suspension rod Chris has been mentioning to get all the weight from your hands, in this way I don't think you'll manage to hold it like that for more then a few minutes. Just after you say, "arestapternekeermeerond" (start moving around) you can see your wife puff under the weight she has to push upwards, that seems like a tough workout :)

In response to using the spring rod from the camera to the belt pouch.

First keep in mind that my experiences might be very different than yours but I've used a DVTEC ENG rig on full sized camera rig that go up to almost 30 pounds for a long time and I agree 110% with Chris that using that type of rig will not only allow one to have steadier footage than not using a similar type rig but will give one steadier footage at the long end of the lens. It give one the ability to keep your hands where they belong, on the lens of the camera so as to be able to operate the zoom rocker, shuttle feature if your lens has that, control the record button on the lens, control the focus and iris the WB, gain switch...all of the control one would expect to have and use on a full sized professional camera. IF the camera is balanced correctly, at least as far as I was taught 30 some years ago, it would be slightly back heavy so when one puts hands on the lens and your arms hang down to your sides you can rest your arms in that position while pulling the camera to a level position and here's the best part and why I am rehashing all this old stuff we've all known for years. The spring rod takes the weight and with a properly balanced camera will hold the camera level and yet will allow you enough spring so if you need to tilt up the spring rod will help you do that and help you hold the camera in that position. the same should you need to tilt down AND since the majority of the weight is being taken by the spring rod your back doesn't hurt as much if at all. I used to do 30 minute shots using this method that with out the ENG Rig I would have been forced to use a tripod. Again, this is my experience with this type of rig.

As for using 2 handles on a full size camera, I tried it once about 5 or 6 years ago, Noticed I said once. To get to the controls on the left side of the lens, I had to let go of the handle and frankly I couldn't get comfy with doing that and I had no real good way to get to the controls on the right side of the lens, namely...record button and zoom rocker. I shut that experiment down at the first break. Again this was my experience only. If it works for someone else and they're happy with it, I say go for it.

Thanks Tom

They look like they work very well on your camera. As mentioned, I used must the same system on my Panasonic AC-130's and they did seem to work well ..Mine were DIY just with 1" square tube and bicycle hand grips but they did work well. After 10 minutes or even less I did find my arms were getting sore and often used to dig my elbow into my belly for extra support.

Chris

Is this the one Chris?

DSLR Rig Support Rod|Shoulder Mount|Waist Belt (http://www.thecinecity.com/eshop/CAMTREE-Shoulder-Rig-Support-Rod.html)

I will order today - they've given me a good price!

Hi Pete

Yep, that's the new model that I also ordered as it has the ball joint on the belt and a flexible pin at the top so it works better than the older type .. I ordered one last week and mine should be here pretty soon.

Their engineering tolerances are sometimes not the best and I found the support tubes were a bit sticky cos they are powder coated not anodised so if the coating is not uniform the tubes don't slide as smoothly as they should ...simple to rectify of course..just some 1200 grit wet/dry abrasive paper and gently rub down the outer surface and it's smooth as silk!!!

You will be quite amazed that your camera goes from being painfully front heavy to almost "weightless" .. I wear the belt all the time at weddings and just click in the support when I need it... It works really well for long shots of the bride coming down the aisle too.. really rock steady!

Let me know if you have any questions?

Chris

Just have to also mention that my good friend Don Bloom first put me onto this rig when I had my shoulder mount Panasonics about 3 years ago and he saved my back too!

A special thanks to Don for telling me where to go and find a solution!!

Chris

Just ordered it Chris - sounds just the job - is it possible to attach anything else to the belt such as a lens or filter pouch?

Pete

Hi Pete

I don't see why not?? My old belt was just ballistic nylon with a front pad and pouch so that certainly could have anything you like hanging from it. The new belts appear to be wider (more comfort) so whether it will thread thru a lens pouch or not I guess depends on the loop at the back of the pouch ..I'm just guessing now but from the pics the newer belt looks at least 3" wide compared to the older ones that were narrower.

My wife gets a sore back when cleaning so she has taken my old belt and puts it on back to front so the support pad sits in the small of her back and gives support .. there is a use for everything!!!

Chris