I threw up the 7Q on an articulating arm attached to my FS700 cage, and I noticed that the monitor mounting female threaded hole is on the bottom of the backside of the 7Q. Short of tightening the arm aluminum lock disc with a channelock pliers, the monitor just wants to tilt and fall off to either side.

What do you guys use for monitor holding solution when using an FS700 cage? I would like to see something far more secure.

I make a very rugged and versatile mounting system for the Odyssey, check it out:

Odyssey Mounting Bracket Westside AV (http://www.westsideavstore.com/index.php?p=product&id=80)

I also make a hood and battery mounting system for the Odyssey:

Odyssey 7Q Hood by Westside AV (http://www.westsideavstore.com/index.php?p=product&id=83)
Odyssey Battery Mounting Bracket Westside AV (http://www.westsideavstore.com/index.php?p=product&id=82)

And here is a video that shows them all:

Odyssey Hood and Bracket Part 1 on Vimeo

I threw up the 7Q on an articulating arm attached to my FS700 cage, and I noticed that the monitor mounting female threaded hole is on the bottom of the backside of the 7Q. Short of tightening the arm aluminum lock disc with a channelock pliers, the monitor just wants to tilt and fall off to either side.

What do you guys use for monitor holding solution when using an FS700 cage? I would like to see something far more secure.

Dear Dave,

I like Olof's mounting system quite a lot.

I find that a Noga Arm, (real Noga Brand), also works well.

I can finger tighten it and it says in place.

Olof's mounting system ensures that it stays in place, by design.

Respectfully,

I have a Movcam cage and I don't have two free tapped holes on top, it needs to mount to the side, so am not sure the Olaf one will work mounted to the side of the top handle of the Movcam rig.

I have a Movcam cage and I don't have two free tapped holes on top, it needs to mount to the side, so am not sure the Olaf one will work mounted to the side of the top handle of the Movcam rig.

I can easily make a 90º adapter that goes on the side of the "cage". All our gear is made right here in my NH Studio/Shop.

You can contact me direct if you are interested. I do a lot of custom work, both in person and figured out by "Skyping", I am westsideav on Skype, email or call first.

olof@westsideav.com
cel 603.387.4921

Great, thanks!

I'm interested if anyone has other solutions - Olof's design wouldn't work too well for me as I need something much more flexible so I can mount the monitor in a number of places depending on the shoot.

I use a noga arm which has just the screw threads on both ends. I also have a clamp block that one end can screw into for clamping to C stands etc.

What I'm trying to solve is the unscrewing action. I find that if I knock or tilt the rig, the arm starts to come unscrewed and can flap around.

I did see the Sony arm for their monitor that has a locating pin that works with many holes drilled in the top handle of the F5/55/700 or possibly other rig handles etc.

I've seen the Zamerican system from Zacuto but that looks a bit over the top and very expensive.

Anyone else seen some kind of adapter or arm system that has a screw and locating pin arrangement?

I have not tried it yet but looks interesting to me
16x9 inc. Cine Lock (169-CL-01) quick release mounting bracket for use with Noga articulated arms (http://cvp.com/index.php?t=product/16x9_169-cl-01)

I am just working on another mounting aid for the Odyssey.

It is very simple an angled aluminum bracket that is threaded into the back hole with rubber back so it is impervious to turning, and it will have ¼-20 and ⅜ threaded holes for Noga arms. This will eliminate the nasty unthreading of Noga arms, because the holes are now on the bottom.

It will also have an optional battery plate for use with heavier batteries (AB/IDX style) as well as the small Sony Canon etc batteries, that attaches to this bracket so the stress is not on the small screws on the back of the Odyssey.

It will also have an optional safety bar to protect the BNC's and the power connector on the bottom of the Odyssey.

I will post photos here soon. It should be in production next week. And the basic angle bracket will be in the $40.00 range.

Any comments are welcome.

I will of course continue making my popular 15mm support system for the Odyssey.

Hi Olof,

Any progress on that option yet?

For me, the problem lies at the camera end of the noga arm - loosening and allowing the whole arm/monitor to flap back and forth. Of course it depends where you screw into - top handle or into a cage/rig of some kind and what moment there is then on the threaded part of the arm.

Some kind of mounting plate with locating pin like Sony has would be good - see here:

https://www.abelcine.com/store/image.php?type=P&id=1005810

Not sure how that fixes to the LCD though.

Paul.

Hi Olof,

Any progress on that option yet?

For me, the problem lies at the camera end of the noga arm - loosening and allowing the whole arm/monitor to flap back and forth. Of course it depends where you screw into - top handle or into a cage/rig of some kind and what moment there is then on the threaded part of the arm.

Some kind of mounting plate with locating pin like Sony has would be good - see here:

https://www.abelcine.com/store/image.php?type=P&id=1005810

Not sure how that fixes to the LCD though.

Paul.

I have the parts made they are on the way to be anodized. I have just really been so busy I have not had time to photograph them. They will be shipping next week.

Hi Olof!

How about a quick phone snapshot? I wanted to order your battery mounting bracket for my 7Q but I didn't know you had a dedicated sales site. Dan linked me over to the nanoflash site for ordering but when checking out - it said yours was out of stock so I ordered the stock one, not knowing it limited my options for using the back thread hole on the monitor.

Dear Friends,

Please note that we have designed in a locating hole, in the Odyssey7Q, near the 1/4" x 20 threaded hole in the back of the Odyssey7Q.

This allows accessories to be built that prevent the possibility of the Odyssey7Q slipping while in use.

Respectfully,

So there is - didn't look for that.

The monitor seems to be firmly enough attached to the screw thread on my magic arm by using a nylon washer though. It's the camera/rig mounting that seems to give most problems.

That locating pin hole - is that some kind of standard distance from the threaded hole?

Thanks.

Dear Paul,

Yes, it is the standard distance.

We used the ARRI Standard distance.

Respectfully,

cool. you guys seem to think of everything!

Now, if you could hurry up and add the "shoot this movie for me" button to the O7Q interface, that would be great ;)

I am just working on another mounting aid for the Odyssey.

It is very simple an angled aluminum bracket that is threaded into the back hole with rubber back so it is impervious to turning, and it will have ¼-20 and ⅜ threaded holes for Noga arms. This will eliminate the nasty unthreading of Noga arms, because the holes are now on the bottom.

It will also have an optional battery plate for use with heavier batteries (AB/IDX style) as well as the small Sony Canon etc batteries, that attaches to this bracket so the stress is not on the small screws on the back of the Odyssey.

It will also have an optional safety bar to protect the BNC's and the power connector on the bottom of the Odyssey.

I will post photos here soon. It should be in production next week. And the basic angle bracket will be in the $40.00 range.

Any comments are welcome.

I will of course continue making my popular 15mm support system for the Odyssey.

Are these finished? Any photos or links to this new item?

Brian they are done, just out for the anodizing.

I will post photos ASAP. I have some that are not anodized yet if you are in a desperate hurry...

PM me if you like or email me.
olof@westsideav.com

We have just been going nuts here finishing video projects as well as setting up a new CNC machine. And I am beta testing certain hardware as well. Sometimes there just are not enough hrs in the day...

I've been using Ultra Light Control System arms for a few years. Ultralight Control Systems (http://www.ulcs.com) Their arms hold. You can mount them in any position, and their monitor mount has two pins that will locate the 7Q quite nicely.

I sort of view it as a temporary solution, but for me it works much better than a Noga arm.

I use Ultra Light stuff as well with Cinelocks on each end. very light, flexible and sturdy.

These are off to the anodizer and will be back here for shipping out on Tuesday next week.

We had a huge wet snowstorm that shut everything down for a couple days here in NH.

These will be on our WEBstore in a couple hrs if Sharyn has a a chance today. I will post link to order page here with pricing ASAP.

The nice thing about these is there is no unthreading when using a Cine Arm, and there are 2 tapped holes on the bottom, ¼" and ⅜" for any size Noga/Cine arm or other ball adapter.

They can be ordered w/o the battery plate. Or with A/B, IDX or Sony E series (FS700) battery plate as well as Canon battery plate.

There is also the option to add a protective bar to the bottom of the bracket to protect the power and BNC plugs, this was requested by Dan Keaton. I included holes for this but I have yet to finalize the design of that bar.

The great thing about adding a heavy battery this way is it is attached to my rugged bracket not the 3mm holes in the back of the Odyssey.

I will of course keep making my standard 15mm based mounting kit as well.

http://www.westsideavstore.com

Hi Olof,

How does the Noga arm attach to your bracket? Is it just a threaded hole? If so, how does that solve the problem of the monitor and bracket rotating free like just the arm screwing into the O7Q?

Thanks.

Hi Olof,

How does the Noga arm attach to your bracket? Is it just a threaded hole? If so, how does that solve the problem of the monitor and bracket rotating free like just the arm screwing into the O7Q?

Thanks.

Paul, the unthreading happens easily on the Odyssey because the ¼" hole is in the back, so the Odyssey can just flip counterclockwise very easily and it then will build up speed and smack into something like the camera or lens. I have had clients complain about this. If you have a big battery on the Odyssey this will cause a big crash...

By having the hole in the bottom, it will just become loose not spin around and bang into things. I also put a rubber coating on the bottom and Odyssey side of the bracket this makes it hold far better.

Thanks Olof,

The camera end will still be a problem though - that's where I find most problems with unscrewing.

I still think the Sony solution is great - if someone could replicate that.

Paul.

Paul, yes all the arms can collapse and cause problems but the unscrewing part can be improved by using the rubber I supply even on the camera handle or cheese plate you mount on the camera. The thin but tough rubber really improves the holding of the ⅜ or ¼ screw.

It is best to use a vertical hole not a side mount hole.

I also make a Noga Arm bracket that attaches to the unused rosette for the pan bar on most tripod heads. This is a good way to mount any monitor, but it stays with the head so it is not for shouldering.

It is available here:
Cine Arm Bracket (http://www.westsideavstore.com/index.php?p=product&id=49)

Thats interesting. I use large nylon washers instead of your rubber and that does help a lot but it's still prone to being knocked loose. With the thumb screw on the Noga thread, you're just putting pressure on the thread to hold it but the main thread can still come loose - hence my comments about a locking pin. Maybe your rubber is better than the nylon at tightening and exerting even more locking force on the thread?

I'm surprised no one else apart from Sony has come up with a good 100% locking solution yet.

The new Cine Arm level Bracket is now available on our WEBstore, with numerous different optional battery plates.

Odyssey Level Cine Arm Mount: Westside A V Studios WEB Store (http://www.westsideavstore.com/index.php?p=product&id=95)

I use Ultra Light stuff as well with Cinelocks on each end. very light, flexible and sturdy.

Brian - what's the cinelock you mention?

Thanks.

Ah - found it - look good.

1) How do you stop the Noga unscrewing from the cinelock though?
2) Does the double screw on the cinelock fit the rear mounting AND locating pin holes on the O7Q?

Question for Olof-
with your Cine Arm mount (40 USD) is it possible to use CD's own battery plate for e.g. Sony batteries (CD-OD-SLPLATE).
Thanks.

16x9 Inc. Cine Lock Quick Release Mounting Device 169-CL-01 B&H

they're great - very solid, very quick and it allows great flexibility in mounting.

I see there are a few negative reviews of the cinelock on bhphoto - relating to the very thing I'm looking to stop happening - monitor rotating on the thread of whatever device it's attached to. How hard can it be to design something good? Maybe I need to do this myself.

There always seems to be a fundamental flaw in all of these mounting solutions - no 100% rock steady locking. They're all based on a single bolt into the device and no matter how tightly or how many washers etc are used - it can still come undone.

I think the main problem for me is using the end of the Noga with the thread and thumb wheel 'locking' mechanism - although the thumb wheel tightens to the device (O7Q in this case), the main bolt/thread of the Noga arm can still easily unscrew through both the O7Q and the thumb wheel. Does that make sense? It seems a less than satisfactory design :(

I agree.

I guess there had to be some really good reason why CD put the threaded hole on the rear instead of the customary bottom.

With a mounting hole on the bottom, the worst that could happen is the monitor would rotate on a vertical axis, which is not all that bad. With a lower rear threaded hole, the whole monitor can fall completely off to the side and smack into thing and possible yank on the cable connectors.

I hear CD did put an indexing unthreaded female hole spaced to Arri specs above the threaded mounting hole. This would stop a rotational flop to the left or right downwards, but that is providing anyone actually made anything that took advantage of it, and apparently nobody does. That needs to change.

I am not sure if Olaf's small right angle bracket indexes into that locating hole, nor do I know yet if my Sony battery plate supplied by CD will interfere with that angle adapter, but this whole mounting arm issue seems to be a mess and really needs a resolution.

My Ikan D7w monitor has a stamped sheet steel metal female threaded port reinforcement on it, The Odyssey has an aluminum female thread which will not hold up as well to abuse form a steel threaded post inserted into it.

I couldn't design electronics for the life of me, but it's $3 for a small stainless steel heli-coil insert. I would have drilled a larger hole in the Odyssey housing and then brought it back down to nominal threaded mounting hole size via a stainless steel heli-coil insert. It takes less than 5 minutes total of manufacturing time to put in a heli-coil. All this would make that crucial threaded fixing hole much less prone to wear.

If someone just made a similar arm to the one sony makes that I keep on going on about, that would be perfect.

Olof's bracket looks ok, although a little 'industrial' but it still doesn't give that absolutely secure mounting that I'm looking for.

Maybe I have to pick the best of the bunch and use some locktite to permanently mount the arm to whatever bracket.

I see there are a few negative reviews of the cinelock on bhphoto - relating to the very thing I'm looking to stop happening - monitor rotating on the thread of whatever device it's attached to. How hard can it be to design something good? Maybe I need to do this myself.

There always seems to be a fundamental flaw in all of these mounting solutions - no 100% rock steady locking. They're all based on a single bolt into the device and no matter how tightly or how many washers etc are used - it can still come undone.

I think the main problem for me is using the end of the Noga with the thread and thumb wheel 'locking' mechanism - although the thumb wheel tightens to the device (O7Q in this case), the main bolt/thread of the Noga arm can still easily unscrew through both the O7Q and the thumb wheel. Does that make sense? It seems a less than satisfactory design :(

a little drop of Loctite solves a lot of woes.
(get the Blue...not the Red)

yeah true. And gaffa tape!

Very interesting discussion on Twitter - Solid Camera are just machining some kind of O7Q support system - they wouldn't say much but will have pics late next week. This is what they said:

https://twitter.com/mysolidcamera/status/447032620791386112

Carlos makes some great stuff over at Solid Camera. Keep your eye on him - he's gearing up for NAB.

Olaf, does your small right angle Odyssey bracket have an indexing pin that indexes into the Arri spaced hole to keep it all from rotating?

Pics of the backside? Will I be able to check one of these out and obtain it if needed at NAB?

I don't think a picture of Olof's backside is appropriate! Lol

I think he said elsewhere that it does have the locating pin though and then means the Noga would mount underneath the monitor, helping the situation a bit but it can still rotate on the vertical axis given a knock or enough force.

Here are photos of just the simple bracket showing how the "Rubberized" back works.

It really conforms to the Odyssey so it does not turn. I use a similar approach on my larger bracket as well. No complaints so far, and I have never had these parts rotate myself.

I can add the pin if you like but it really is not necessary. One nice thing about this system is it does not remove the anodization on the Odyssey or my bracket, with repeated use, metal to metal tends to chip the finish...

The 2 lower 4mm holes are for the protective bar, an option protecting cables and connectors especially the Nano power connector.

Olaf, will your right angle bracket interfere with the single horizontal battery plate system sold by C.D.?

Will you have any of these at NAB?

The rubber strip is a nice touch.

Dave, I will not be at NAB. I have a 3 week shoot in April in the GA and MO. There will be some of my stuff in the CD booth. As you may know I am primarily a shooter and run production company, the gear production is an outgrowth of what I make for myself. But I must say the gear production is starting to take over a bit. As I get older I must say I enjoy staying here in the valley working for local clients and making parts in my wood and metal shop more than insane travel schedules.

I do supply the bracket with an allen screw and wrench, as well as the large thumb screw, this will fit under the CD bracket as well. I think even the thumb screw fits as well. I have not had a CD battery plate in the shop yet. They are on backorder. I have 2 battery plate solutions as you may know they can be ordered with every battery plate I have, AB Gold Mounts, IDX/Sony V-mounts, Sony L, and Canon batteries.

I am sure the rubber keeps it from rotating, I just like the idea of an added indexing pin.

At NAB I am trying to figure out of the Tilta external EVF monitor arm can be adapted to your right angle bracket. Also, my Movcam cage has two upper forward facing holes for short upper rods that perhaps something can be attached to that with a horizontal perpendicular arm to attach to your bracket.

Like these:

http://www.urbancine.com/images/products/tilta/Tilta%2019mm%20RED%20LCD%20Holder%20TT-C01.jpg

http://ikancorp.com/images/thumbnails/400x0//images/products/TILTA/TT-E01-A//TT-E01-A_1.jpg

I am sure the rubber keeps it from rotating, I just like the idea of an added indexing pin.

At NAB I am trying to figure out of the Tilta external EVF monitor arm can be adapted to your right angle bracket. Also, my Movcam cage has two upper forward facing holes for short upper rods that perhaps something can be attached to that with a horizontal perpendicular arm to attach to your bracket.

Like these:

http://www.urbancine.com/images/products/tilta/Tilta%2019mm%20RED%20LCD%20Holder%20TT-C01.jpg

http://ikancorp.com/images/thumbnails/400x0//images/products/TILTA/TT-E01-A//TT-E01-A_1.jpg

I am sure you can work something out. I always try to make really compact simple rigs with as few parts as possible. With my level bracket any ¼ or ⅜ threaded device can be added to the bottom. The bottom is also rubberized so it helps to keep the base from swiveling as well.

I decided against the pin to keep production simple thus price down. I can install the "pin" as a custom addition for $25.00 extra. It means another "tool change" in the CNC machine and a hand insertion of the pin in a press. It also makes the rubber installation a bit trickier.

Remember we don't make thousands of these in a big factory. There actually is a lot of hand work in small production and keeping things simple keeps price down.