Does anyone know if this lens has stabilization?

Amazon.com: Panasonic Lumix G Micro 4/3 LEICA DG SUMMILUX 25mm f/1.4 Leica Aspherical Lens: Camera & Photo (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0055N2L22)

D

nope, only autofocus.

The gh3 does not seem to get results low light? am I wrong?

The gh3 is quite clean at 3200 iso but the 5DIII can go much higher then that before it gets ugly, you"ll start to see the difference between both camera from 6400 iso and up, the gh3 only can do 6400 iso max but I"m sure the 5dIII would be much cleaner at that stage. I have used 6400 iso on the gh3 plenty of times though and it's much cleaner then my 550 was but depending on the lights used (especially red light) it can happen I need to use neatvideo to clean up. That however works great as the image is quite sharp, neatvideo on my 550d footage would turn it into a bit of a mush as it was much softer.

Surely there must be a low light lens with is os vc.

Like I said before, I don't think there exist a F1.4 stabilized lens, guess it must be a design limitation, I think you need to make a list of "must haves" when it comes to buying a camera with the most important on top, then you need to add a price behind it so you"ll see how that adds up in the end.
If lowlight performance is THE most important on top and you have the budget, get the 5dIII or even better, buy a canon c100.

Yep think your right Noa. Still siding 5d mark iii but will hold out till February before the season kicks in...

You better should buy now, I always buy mine when the season ends so I have enough time to practice :)

Cheers Noa, see this is my point holding back on a gh3, if I get the 5d mark iii I can use a 24-70 vc with 3200 iso and get a clean result. Surely there must be a low light lens with is os vc. The gh3 does not seem to get results low light? am I wrong?

Steve - yes, there are wide, fast Panasonic micro 4/3 lenses with stabilization.

With the micro 4/3 crop, the stabilized Panasonic 12-35mm f2.8 with Power O.I.S. is comparable to the Canon 24-70mm f2.8L USM.

I would save my money (and my back) and get the GH3 and the Panasonic 12-35 instead of the significantly heavier and more expensive Canon 5D Mark III and Canon 24-70.

The Panasonic camera/lens combination is so light you can put it on a copter. Here's the GH3 on a Cinestar multirotor with the 12-35 f2.8 lens in low light at ISO1600. Looks pretty clean to me:


Panasonic GH3 night testing with the Cinestar multirotor on Vimeo


Good luck,

Bill
Hybrid Camera Revolution (http://hybridcamerarevolution.blogspot.com)

I think Steve means with fast a f1.4 lens and that doesn't exists with stabilization as far as I know.

I have and use the 20mm f1.7, 25mm f1.4, 45mm f1.8, and the 75mm f1.8.

None of them have IS and that doesn't cause me any problems. If I'm going handheld I use the lightweight SpiderBrace (shoulder unit with 3 grip handles) and with a bit of attention to what I'm doing I have no real problems holding them still enough. Low light performance is great with all of them.

Admittedly, stabilizing the camera even on the SpiderBrace does begin to get more critical with the 45 and 75 but I love what those lenses are capable of.

Now for stabilization built in, I'm beginning to watch used prices on clean Olympus OMD E-M5 bodies. The built in the body 5 axis stabilization approaches the results of a Steadycam, I've seen some great footage where the stabilization is as clean as can be with little or no shake walking and moving the camera around. The only thing that kept me from buying one of those brand new is that Olympus seems to think we need only one frame rate (30fps).

But I'm looking to pick one of those up if the used (but clean) price drops a bit more, just for where I need stabilization. I shoot mainly at 30p anyway.

Steve, watch the micro four thirds forum sites (several have a lot of UK participants) buy/sell sections for used Lumix 20mm f1.7. Here in the US they seem to be going for $300 and a bit under. You'll maybe find out you need not be dependent on IS especially with the shorter focal lengths.

Hey Bill how are ya...
Cheers for your info, the trouble is Bill, the receptions are getting darker and the past couple I have been running the 60d in 2500 iso at 1.4 and its terrible. The hfg25 is fairing slightly better at 6db but to dark a footage. The reason I want upmost stabilization is that weddings are becoming faster with no time to relax and every wedding is a rush these days. After the meal and mingling the venues seem to want to reduce light that much its annoying but? So I want the GH3 to work and yes its cheaper but I have seen results in dim lit places that a 5d would get better results. Yes its heavier and more costly for sure. Still the gh3 and a 20mm 1.7 may do it I can use my monopod for sure and its better than a rig as chest breathing makes it difficult for me.
I am thinking 5d mark iii with a tamron 24-70 2.8 vc and my 70-200 keep for the full frame I have the 50mm 1.4 job done and with the vc tamron would stop those little jitters and I could work at 6400 iso. Now the gh3 I would need the body the 12-35 2.8 then the 25mm 1.4 or 20mm 1.7 and a long range maybe 30-150 2.8 so both ways its expensive...Both ways would be £2500. Steve

Like I said before, I don't think there exist a F1.4 stabilized lens, guess it must be a design limitation,
It's not a design limitation it's just the fact that on a 24mm-50mm lens stabilisation is not required for stills & AFAIK there are no F/1.4 lenses longer than 50mm. The rule of thumb for a sharp picture free from camera shake is to use a shutter speed which is at least as fast as 1 divided by the focal length of the lens e.g. on a 50mm lens 1/50 is sufficient On a longer lens IS can be useful in lower light e.g. shoot with a 200mm lens at 1/50 rather than 1/200

Now for stabilization built in, I'm beginning to watch used prices on clean Olympus OMD E-M5 bodies. The built in the body 5 axis stabilization approaches the results of a Steadycam, I've seen some great footage where the stabilization is as clean as can be with little or no shake walking and moving the camera around. The only thing that kept me from buying one of those brand new is that Olympus seems to think we need only one frame rate (30fps).

But I'm looking to pick one of those up if the used (but clean) price drops a bit more, just for where I need stabilization. I shoot mainly at 30p anyway.
I have an OM-D E-M5 & the IBIS is absolutely staggeringly amazingly good & far better than any other stabilisation I have seen even on a proper camcorder. The video quality is OK but I have seen evidence of the CODEC breaking down when stressed e.g. the typical terror subject of rustling leaves on a tree can turn to mush. I am in PAL-land so am shooting at 25p with my other cameras but Premiere Pro does a good job mixing in 30p along with 25p (as does FCP). I shoot at 1/50 to avoid any flickering of lights & haven't encountered any problems. For me the advantages of a camera that fits in my pocket that doesn't need a tripod, monopod, slider, crane or Steadicam to produce usable footage outweighs the 30p & less than perfect video which is excellent most of the time.

The OM-D (or OMG as my wife refers to it:-) is becoming my goto camera. I probably need to invest in the 25mm F/1.4 (possibly 20mm F/1.7) plus the 45mm F/1.8 to complete the package as I already have the 14mm F/2.5 as a wide lens. I don't really want to invest in big heavy manual lenses like a Voigtlander Nokton 25mm F/0.95 or the various SLR Magic lenses or old Nikon or Canon FD lenses as I like the modern small light plastic lenses with AF actually designed for these cameras.

The OM-D (or OMG as my wife refers to it:-) is becoming my goto camera. I probably need to invest in the 25mm F/1.4 (possibly 20mm F/1.7) plus the 45mm F/1.8 to complete the package as I already have the 14mm F/2.5 as a wide lens.

You'd likely be better off with the 25mm f1.4 rather than the 20mm f1.7 for the OMD EM5, I'm seeing multiple references to banding issues with the 20mm at high ISOs on that camera. So far I've seen nothing like that but all I have right now are Panasonic Lumix bodies.

The Olympus 45mm f1.8 is an outstanding performer, you'll love it!

I have an OM-D E-M5 & the IBIS is absolutely staggeringly amazingly good & far better than any other stabilisation I have seen even on a proper camcorder.

This is what I've read on other forums when the E-M5 first came out. You've just "nailed it" for me as I found a well cared for body with 736 shutter actuations on another forum for a price I felt was fair.

v[QUOTE=Nigel Barker;1819880]
For me the advantages of a camera that fits in my pocket that doesn't need a tripod, monopod, slider, crane or Steadicam to produce usable footage outweighs the 30p & less than perfect video which is excellent most of the time.

I'm in the U.S. and 30p is what I'm used to working in. I have the 60p and 24p options with the GH3's, but not any stabilization except what's in the lenses so I'll look forward to doing some testing with the OMD E-M5 when it gets here.



I don't really want to invest in big heavy manual lenses like a Voigtlander Nokton 25mm F/0.95 or the various SLR Magic lenses or old Nikon or Canon FD lenses as I like the modern small light plastic lenses with AF actually designed for these cameras.

I'm with you on this all the way, that's why I made the switch from Canon. I love how sharp these lenses are and if necessary I have the diffusion filtration I might need to "soften" them. But at 75 yrs. the light weight of the lenses is sure appreciated.

It's not a design limitation it's just the fact that on a 24mm-50mm lens stabilisation is not required for stills & AFAIK there are no F/1.4 lenses longer than 50mm.

Panasonic has a 24mm full frame equivalent that is stabilized, I can understand that for stills it might not be required but I always wondered why stabilization doesn't exist on fast primes, surely it can't be the case that all manufacturers think it's not necessary, for video stabilization is even on wide angle lenses a advantage when you shoot handheld.

there are no F/1.4 lenses longer than 50mm.
A 85mm f1.4 exists, or do you mean something else?

Yes, indeed there is Noa. In fact there is also an 85mm F/1.2. Amazing lens. The F/1.2 was not fun to use at receptions, it was a bear to focus manually at F/1.2. Lots of fun to play with with, however. With no IS it was kind of worthless handheld.

I was referring to native MFT lenses & in fact I see that neither Olympus nor Panasonic make an F/1.4 lens longer than 25mm although I see that there is actually a 50mm F/0.95 from SLR Magic but that is a manual lens.

Panasonic has a 24mm full frame equivalent that is stabilized, Panasonic don't have a 12mm prime with IS they have a 12-35mm zoom with IS (24-70mm FF equivalent)

That was the lens I was refering to meaning at 12mm it's a 24mm full frame equivalent that is stabilised. Olympus also has a mft 75mm f1.8 but that one is unfortunaltely not stabilised.

That was the lens I was refering to meaning at 12mm it's a 24mm full frame equivalent that is stabilised. Olympus also has a mft 75mm f1.8 but that one is unfortunaltely not stabilised.
Olympus don't have any stabilised lenses because they have no need for them with their fantastic patented 5-way in camera IS.

I was round visiting colleague at the weekend & had the opportunity to compare hand holding his Panasonic 100-300mm lens on my OM-D. With Olympus IBIS I could hand hold it at 100mm (200mm FF equivalent) absolutely rock solid whereas with the Panasonic OIS in the lens I could not as it wavered about.

I thought the Olympus only had 30p as option? How do you edit this on a 25p timeline, does it not slow down the footage when you go from 30 to 25p?

Olympus also has a mft 75mm f1.8 but that one is unfortunaltely not stabilised.

No...But it is CRAZY sharp and has beautiful image tones. I tried to avoid the cost of it by buying a Rokinon 85mm T1.5 Cine lens, the Rokinon was OK - I did like it - but I wound up selling it and ordering the Olympus 75mm. Good decision for me, it's a great lens.

Yes, but it's also crazy expensive :) I"m sure it's worth every penny but I do have a 85mm rokinon which is 290 euro while the Olympus is 1000 euro. I"m planning to buy a fast prime soon for my gh3/g6 but I find it hard to choose, if I go for a MFT lens I"m stuck with that format with no option to mount on any other camera ever.

Noa, I'd highly recommend looking into Olympus OM Zuiko vintage lenses. I have a quite a few of them from over the years. They have super high contrast and sharpness with none of the yellow muddy colors of the Nikkor AIS's or Canon FD lenses.

The 24mm f/2, the 28mm f/2.8 and the 50mm f/1.4 are particularly incredible lenses. The 28mm and 50mm are quite cost effective as well.

If you take your time I think it's possible to find some of these lenses in the $50 - $80 USD range. I have quite a few vintage lenses and my Olympus OM's are by far and away the finest you can get.

In any case, the Olympus vintage lenses are an incredible option if you can live without IS and autofocus. Surely for a savings of 500+ euro's per lens you can do some truly unbelievable work on the GH3 or G6.

With the 10x zoom function for focusing on the G6, it makes using these vintage manual lenses quite manageable when on a tripod. For stabilizer work and truly wide angle the 12-35mm f/2.8 with IS is still the ticket.

Cheers,
Pete

Thx for the tip on the vintage Olympus OM Zuiko lenses! Initially I was thinking on getting a Olympus 45mm f1.8 new and a panasonic 20mm f1.7 as both are cheap but optically good performers, I also need a zoom with a bit larger range where the panasonic 45-200 f4/5.6 came to mind which is also very cheap. All 3 lenses have autofocus capability which I use a lot just to initially point my camera to what I want to have in focus and then press the shutter button half, also when a subject moves pressing the shutter button to make it refocus has proven to be accurate enough and I switch to manual whenever needed. But I do like a all manual lens as well, particular the Samyang cine lenses with their clickless aperturering, I got a 24mm f1.4 e mount for my sony camera to find out later there doesn't exist a adapter for any other camera.

A quick search on ebay I see the 28mm f2.0 starts from around 150 to up to 450 dollar, there I also need to see it doesn't come from the states as the sending costs are high + I need to pay additional custom costs and added taxes. I have a set of vintage tamron adaptall II lenses which I like as they render a image with a lot of "character" but they are not usable in combination with my new lumix lenses as they render a very clean, sharp image and you clearly see the difference. That's why I am a bit wary of vintage lenses as they would be perfect for my personal projects but not so for my paid projects.

Nigel,

I wrote this a week or so ago.

You'd likely be better off with the 25mm f1.4 rather than the 20mm f1.7 for the OMD EM5, I'm seeing multiple references to banding issues with the 20mm at high ISOs on that camera. So far I've seen nothing like that but all I have right now are Panasonic Lumix bodies.

The Olympus 45mm f1.8 is an outstanding performer, you'll love it!

Last night I shot a test with the 20mm on the OMD at ISO 12,800 just to see how visible any banding might be. In a badly underexposed portion of wall I could see a banding pattern I've seen associated with the GH1, but I really had to "look" for it. So I wouldn't be afraid of using the Panasonic 20mm f1.7 with this camera. The degree of underexposure it would take to show banding is unlikely in most high ISO exposures.

I've also read on the old e-p1.net that firmware update 1.5 drastically reduced the banding anyway, that's the version I have on my camera.

The 5 axis IS is absolutely amazing, like you said.

The GH3s remain my primary video equipment but I'll put this OMD to good use.

With video limited to a high ISO of 3200 I really see no reason to avoid this lens, although the OMD E-M5 is "crazy light" and "tiny" with the 20mm mounted on it.

I guess the OMD E-M5 would be only limited to the use of creative footage for users living in PAL land? Since we have to convert 30 to 25p that should slow down footage, not so sure what that would do to a talking person?

I guess the OMD E-M5 would be only limited to the use of creative footage for users living in PAL land? Since we have to convert 30 to 25p that should slow down footage, not so sure what that would do to a talking person?

I have only done a couple of weddings with the OM-D E-M5 & haven't converted anything. I just drop it all on the timeline & Premiere Pro does the right thing. FCP X will do all necessary frame rate conversion too. Here is a link to a Handfasting (Neo-Pagan New Age thing) that I shot the other week. It's a mixture of 30p, 25p & 50p. Danny and Nyssa - Handfasting Highlights Video @ Alice Barker ImagesAlice Barker Images (http://www.alicebarkerimages.com/danny-nyssa-handfasting-highlights-video/)

I think that people make too much of the problems of mixing frame rates when a good NLE will handle it for you. I do shoot at 1/50 rather than 1/60 when using 30p to avoid the flickering lights with 50Hz mains problem.

Correct me if I am wrong but that is not entirely correct, I do mix all kind of framerates as well, like 50i, 25p and 50p in a 25p project, I don't have to do one thing either as Edius handles this all behind the scenes, when I make a 25p project and Edius will output a 25p file for me, no matter what source footage framerate was. Only 30p will be changed to 25p as well but here the speed will change slowing the footage down, it's not the same as going from 50p to 25p when you output the file as far as I understand as the speed remains the same, that's why I wanted to know what this will do with 30p footage from someone giving a speech and you output to a 25p file.

Premiere & FCP both fix the frame rate by dropping frames or interpolating frames anyway they do some sort of magic. If I drop a 30p clip onto a 25p timeline it plays normally just the same as a 50p clip does. If I wanted to slow down a 30p clip I would use Cinema Tools to conform it to 25p but that is a different operation.

I haven't tried adding 30p footage when doing a multi cam sequence but where I have used it with cutaways & just mixing with other footage it all seems to work quite seamlessly (with Premiere or FCP X anyway).

Interesting, I haven't tested with 30p footage yet, so you are saying going from a 30p to a 25p file doesn't affect speech at all in Premiere?

As of this post, the G6 with the kit lens is on sale for $498 at Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFCTDD6?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creativeASIN=B00CFCTDD6&linkCode=xm2&tag=din0a-20). This camera is a steal at this price, in my view.

Bill
Hybrid Camera Revolution (http://hybridcamerarevolution.blogspot.com)

I only find prizes back in the 650-700 range?

Sorry, Noa. I had the wrong link posted. I fixed it in the post above, and here it is again:

Panasonic G6 - $498 at Amazon US (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFCTDD6?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creativeASIN=B00CFCTDD6&linkCode=xm2&tag=din0a-20) as of this post (sadly, they are now on backorder - but you can order at the sale price and they won't charge your card until the camera ships).

Best,

Bill
Hybrid Camera Revolution (http://hybridcamerarevolution.blogspot.com)

$498 at B&H today (Thanksgiving).and in stock. With 2 GH3s, an OMD E-M5 and a GX1 I'll pass on this but whatta deal it is!

Bruce, can I ask how your OMD E-M5 is holding up compared to your gh3's? I have seen some very mixed results from that camera, some images from a wedding shot with the camera I recently saw had some very beautiful colour/skintones but others with lots of finer detail where I saw the image falling apart due to the codec. Is that your experience as well? I"m thinking on getting that camera for beautyshots because of it's build in stabilization where I should be able to shoot with a 75mm unstabilized prime lens handheld.

I haven't had a chance to really "wring it out" yet. But quick and crude handheld and walking tests are very encouraging. I plan to use it mainly for shots where I have to have the camera in motion and won't be concerned about leaves and tall grass waving in the wind. I envision camera motion being fast enough to where background elements would be indistinct with any camera, but I'll try to do a few slower to see if I can answer your questions.

The GH3 footage will definitely be superior but in most cases the GH3's will be locked down on a tripod. I'm going to try to get an "actor" and test out some "concepts" involving camera in motion (trying to keep up with actor walking) in low light environments with "fast glass" on the OMD. The Oly 75mm definitely qualifies as "fast glass", but my first tests will likely be with the Pan/Leica 25mm f1.4.

The menu system on the OMD is a "mess" and there is a learning curve unless you have dealt with the menus on other Olympus cameras. I had a Pen E-P3 and that led me around "by the nose" for several days, the OMD menu only took me about 3 days to begin to have some idea where to "hunt" for a configuration item.

I'll definitely let you know how I feel about the results when I get to do it.

Thx Bruce.

I have just ordered a G6 with 14-140 3.5 to 5.6. Going for a very good price in the UK at the moment. £649 and a £100 cashback. looking forward to seeing just how good it is

That's a good price considering the lens is the same price as the body, around these parts at least. After selling my ea50 with stocklens including one nex mount and one canonmount lens I invested that money in quality m4/3 glass, like the 12-35mm f2.8, the leica 25mm f1.4, the olympus 75mm f1.8, the olympus 12mm f2.0 and one just for fun lens and for that one odd shot, the samyang 7,5mm f3.5 and last the 14mm f2.5 pancake which was the first lens I had. The gh3 will be equiped with the 12mm f2.0 on a steadicam, all the other lenses will be used on the g6, I like the fact that I can use etc mode in 25 and 50p mode, there is a slight resolution loss but with the glass I got you hardly notice that, especially with the oly 75mm which is very sharp and that becomes a 187mm f1.8 lens in etc mode or a 375mm f1.8 lens in full frame terms, great for those on the other side of the venue talking head shots. :)
In my case I got 2 camerabodies (a gh3 + g6) incl 6 quality lenses for a price of one canon c100 body excl lens, I consider that a good price as well :) As a bonus these m4/3 lenses are 1/3th the size and weight of aps-c or full frame lenses meaning my backpack has more space and weighs less, that difference I feel at the end of the day.

Wow! That is a cheap price. That is a good lens especially for £100. The aperture is a disadvantage in dark venues but the reach is great. It means that even with the lens G6 is £300 cheaper than a GH3 body alone. g6 - Search Results - Wex Photographic (http://www.wexphotographic.com/search/?q=g6)

Noa, does that mean that you prefer the G6 if you are operating it? It seems a bit of a waste to just use the GH3 on your Steadicam. If you wanted a camera just for the Blackbird the new Panasonic GM1 looks like it would be perfect.

No I don't prefer the g6 over the gh3, it's a weight and iso issue, the g6 is much too light for my blackbird and I need to have a extra wheight solution that I will be looking into after my last wedding of the year tomorrow and it's a iso issue as the gh3 can go to 6400 iso as opposed to 3200 on the g6, it has happened I needed 6400 iso on the steadicam but I plan to add a videolight to the g6 on the steadicam so 3200 iso will do for those extreme situations where they turn down all the light during the first dance, I also plan to use an extra light on a light stand near the dancefloor that is remote controlled just to give that extra light when needed, the 12mm f2.0 oly will help as well but I know the focus will become very tricky.

I have seen gm1 test videos showing its better and cleaner then the gh3 in low light but that's yet another camera :) Allthough I would prefer the gx7 as it can do 50p but that camera is the same price as a gh3 body, overpriced if you ask me.

I hadn't realised how much lighter the G6 is compared to the GH3 (body only but including battery 340gm vs 550gms). I suppose that all you need is a 200gm slab of metal to add some mass to the stage of the Blackbird. The GM1 is just 204gms body only battery included - that's tiny! The GM1 doesn't do 50p though.

Why would you want a GX7 rather than another G6? The in body stabilisation doesn't operate in video mode.

Focus should be easy with the 12mm as the hyperfocal distance with that lens on an MFT camera even at F/2 is under 5m so everything is in focus from 2.5m to infinity. Unless of course you don't want a super deep DoF.

I have found using the Canon 5D3 at ISO6400 that F/2.8 always gave me decent exposure so ISO3200 at F/2 would be the same as there is always the possibility of dropping down to 1/30 shutter or an extra stop unless you are shooting 50p with 1/100 for a 180 degree shutter.

I need to add a batterygrip to the gh3 to get sufficient wheight for my blackbird so for the g6 I need to see how much weight exactly is needed. The gx7 has 50p and that's what I need for my steadicam work, slowed down steadicam moves look awesome for my trailers :) Haven"t seen any direct comparisons but it looks like the gm1 is cleaner then the gh3 at high iso's which would be the only reason to use such a camera for steadicam work + the fact that it's more expensive brother has 50p but like I said I think it's a overpriced camera.

The G6 has 50p so what would be the advantage of the GX7?

The prices here in the UK for body only are GH3 £849 GX7 £719 G6 £449 (£549 with 14-140mm lens) & the GM1 is £629 (including 12-32mm lens) so the G6 really is a lot cheaper than the other models.

From what I've seen it's a lot cleaner at high iso, only I"m not sure if it can do 6400 iso? 3200 iso however looked noise free on that little cam which is remarkable.

Noa, doesn't the Blackbird have a height adjustment for the gimbal to the sled? If I'm not mistaken, if you simply add a 15mm or so between the sled and the gimbal the lighter G6 should come close to balancing perfectly with the same weight. I've found a longer distance between the camera and the gimbal is essential for lighter cameras to be operated smoothly.

I have a new Olympus 17mm f/1.8 I've been testing on a jib pole stabilizer I've been developing. The combination of the ultra light G6 and that tiny lens is allowing some amazing stabilized images extended away from the operator by as much as 15' all hand held.

Here's some of my first samples with that combo.

http://youtu.be/pMLlJZnOogo

Cheers,
Pete

Pete,
I have been doing the same thing with a small canon eos-m camera and a small staedicam on the end of a handheld long pole. I am working now on using a small gimbal setup with brushless dc motors and a controller board from ideas I have form all the RC multicopters hobby stuff. I was starting to build a quadcopter, but I am finding about all these laws and restrictions they have for flying these things. You cannot fly one and get paid for the footage or use it commercially without permission from everyone who owns land in the area AND you need a certain license on top of that. BUT, they do allow anyone to fly them for recreation purposes. How stupid is that. The commercial flyer is more experienced and careful for safety. So I now hesitate building one cus a man nearby where I live was fined $10,000 by the USA FAA cus he sold some footage he shot in air flying a quadcopter with a gimbal and a small camera. His intention was recreational and later someone saw the footage and bought it. He now has a lawyer and goes to court to fight this first time case ever of this nature. Sorry, got OT here. :-)

I forgot, that Olympus camera with 5 axis IS would also be real good by itself with a gimbal handle on the end of a long pole, handheld..

I'm searching for any setup advice for the G6. I just bought the G6 for my daughter and son-in-law who are expecting their first child. They know little to nothing about cameras of any kind. I do have a GH2 so I somewhat know my way around the Pany's. Should I just tell them to run in IA for both video and stills? I've been through the menu and changed a few settings that I know about but was wondering if some of you who have been using the G6 for a while could give any setup tips.

Man, I feel like I got real lucky when I made my purchase from Amazon (B&H was $50 higher at the time) for under $500 with the kit lens 14-42. I notice now it's back up to almost manufactures list and out of stock.

I'm searching for any setup advice for the G6. I just bought the G6 for my daughter and son-in-law who are expecting their first child. They know little to nothing about cameras of any kind. I do have a GH2 so I somewhat know my way around the Pany's. Should I just tell them to run in IA for both video and stills? I've been through the menu and changed a few settings that I know about but was wondering if some of you who have been using the G6 for a while could give any setup tips.
If they no nothing & don't want to stress over using the camera 'properly' then by all means tell them to use iA as it does a fantastic job. It's not just getting the exposure correct it's very smart in the way it selects the actualaperture & shutter speed http://www.panasonic.co.uk/html/en_GB/Products/LUMIX+Digital+Cameras/Lumix+Digital+Cameras+–+Intelligent+Auto+Mode/2019604/index.html