Alex Anderson
August 7th, 2013, 06:31 PM
How does the two manufactures of image stabilization lenses compare? I was looking at the Panasonic H-HS12035 LUMIX G X VARIO 12-35mm/F2.8 ASPH X Series Lens for using on a GH3 to shoot HD video.
Alex
Alex
View Full Version : Power OIS vs Canon IS Alex Anderson August 7th, 2013, 06:31 PM How does the two manufactures of image stabilization lenses compare? I was looking at the Panasonic H-HS12035 LUMIX G X VARIO 12-35mm/F2.8 ASPH X Series Lens for using on a GH3 to shoot HD video. Alex Alex Anderson August 9th, 2013, 02:54 PM There must be somebody out there that has a Poiwer IOS lens that can at least comment on the performance of the stabilization shooting video handheld. Alex Bill Bruner August 10th, 2013, 07:32 PM Alex - I have shot video with Canon IS lenses and with the Panasonic 12-35mm and 14-140mm Power OIS lenses, and, to be honest, none of them are great for handheld work without a rig, tripod, monopod or stabilizer. Cameras with in-body stabilization like the Olympus OM-D record much smoother handheld video - but they don't have the GH3's other advantages for video. If you're a handheld shooter, I would get the GH3 plus an inexpensive rig like the $260 Photography & Cinema Prime shoulder rig plus a $24 pistol grip with a trigger. Good luck! Bill Hybrid Camera Revolution (http://hybridcamerarevolution.blogspot.com) Alex Anderson August 10th, 2013, 10:32 PM Hi Bill, I appreciate your info. I was not aware of the the lens IS not being that good. I guess it's more more tele shooting for stills, like sports, to avoid blur. I am not a hand held shooter. I have always been a tripod shooter but I move around fast to get my shots so I use a light weight carbon fiber setup. I ask because I am curious after seeing how good that Olympus did handheld looking our a rear window of a moving bus. It's too bad the Olympus cannot have the quality of the GH3. I almost pulled the trigger today for a new GH3 and a 17mm f.95 lens. To be honest, I now wonder if I should get a BMCC because the cost of the GH3 setup is over $2k and the BMCC now costs $2000. I like how it has 13 stops latitude, balanced audio phantom mic inputs and records RAW to SSD's and Apple ProRes. And, a thunderbolt output which I can use on a MSI motherboard I have sitting here. Time for Panny to drop the GH3 prices, I reckon. :-) Alex I see you are also in the DC area like me. Bill Bruner August 11th, 2013, 07:28 AM Alex - $1995 is a great price for the BMCC (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C89ZVR8?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creativeASIN=B00C89ZVR8&linkCode=xm2&tag=din0a-20), but, sadly, that's with no lenses, no viewfinder, no SSDs for data storage and an almost mandatory external battery. By the time you add even the most basic cine lens, an inexpensive viewfinder, a 120GB Kingston SSD and a useful battery, it will cost significantly more than the GH3 and $1150 Nokton you were ready to buy. Memory costs alone for the BMCC (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C89ZVR8?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creativeASIN=B00C89ZVR8&linkCode=xm2&tag=din0a-20) are daunting. The 120GB Kingston SSD costs $150 and will record only about 15 minutes of RAW or a little over an hour of ProRes. The $98 128GB Kingston SDXC card in my GH3, on the other hand, gives me between 4 and 5 hours of recording time at 50mbps. As I mentioned over on the other thread, I did pre-order a $995 Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera (http://www.adorama.com/VDBMCCP.html?kbid=68009) as a "B" camera for my GH3 because, like you, I wanted Blackmagic's 13 stops of DR and ProRes (and eventually RAW) - and because it uses the same lenses as the GH3. That said, I'm not really into manual focus, so I'm not interested in buying the BMCC MFT (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C89ZVR8?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creativeASIN=B00C89ZVR8&linkCode=xm2&tag=din0a-20). I'll rent one if I need 2.5K :) I sold my house in DC and moved back to California - but business does bring me back to DC every once in a while. I guess I need to change my dvinfo profile :) Best, Bill Hybrid Camera Revolution (http://hybridcamerarevolution.blogspot.com) Luc Spencer August 11th, 2013, 08:33 AM Bill, I had no idea those things existed! I was actually about to post a question as to what would be the best stabilization method for filming events with the GH3. So far most of my work was done handheld, and while that gives me mobility and control over focus (one hand is permanently on the focus ring), the footage is shaky and borderline unusable (from a professional point of view). While warp stabilizer would make it OK, I think you agree that stabilizing an entire wedding is not an option. My thoughts are as follows: 1. Get a really wide lens (either the 12mm Olympus f/2 or 14mm Panasonic f/2.5) which *should* make handheld shooting appear less shaky (I use a 25mm lens currently). 2. Get a steadycam (Wondlan Ares) and then I know I can even run and all is well. HOWEVER, since I won't be able to touch the camera anymore, I will have no control over focus. For daytime shots I can maybe get away with shooting at f/8 or so, but at receptions and churches I usually have to be somewhere around f/2, which, combined with no control over focus, will most likely result in disaster. 3. Get the type of shoulder rig you linked, which would give me focus control and a bit of mobility, albeit nothing near what a steadycam would offer me. Bottom line, pros and cons for each. You see why I'm conflicted? :) Nigel Barker August 11th, 2013, 10:53 PM Bill, I had no idea those things existed! I was actually about to post a question as to what would be the best stabilization method for filming events with the GH3. So far most of my work was done handheld, and while that gives me mobility and control over focus (one hand is permanently on the focus ring), the footage is shaky and borderline unusable (from a professional point of view). While warp stabilizer would make it OK, I think you agree that stabilizing an entire wedding is not an option. My thoughts are as follows: 1. Get a really wide lens (either the 12mm Olympus f/2 or 14mm Panasonic f/2.5) which *should* make handheld shooting appear less shaky (I use a 25mm lens currently). 2. Get a steadycam (Wondlan Ares) and then I know I can even run and all is well. HOWEVER, since I won't be able to touch the camera anymore, I will have no control over focus. For daytime shots I can maybe get away with shooting at f/8 or so, but at receptions and churches I usually have to be somewhere around f/2, which, combined with no control over focus, will most likely result in disaster. 3. Get the type of shoulder rig you linked, which would give me focus control and a bit of mobility, albeit nothing near what a steadycam would offer me. Bottom line, pros and cons for each. You see why I'm conflicted? :) 4. Use a monopod. This is the single cheapest, simplest & best option for stable run & gun footage. I use a Glidecam 2000 a lot with my a Canon 5D but only when I want to keep the camera in motion. Luc Spencer August 12th, 2013, 01:23 AM I do use a monopod and a decent Manfrotto too, but it doesn't really do much in the way of stabilizing if you move with it... |