View Full Version : UWOL 25- Red River Survivors – Mike Sims


Mike Sims
April 3rd, 2013, 10:26 AM
Treasure almost lost but saved; almost lost again, saved again.

NOTE: For best effect, before viewing imagine you have just had a big tin plate of pinto beans and cornbread and are now sitting around the Chuck Wagon cook-fire.

Red River Survivors on Vimeo

This story is of the type known as a Cowboy Campfire Story which is a type of Tall Tale for which Texas was once famous (or infamous). As a tall tale it is based upon many facts, none of which are allowed in any way to interfere with the telling of the tale. This is a true story. Sort of.

Here are some of those facts:
Charles Goodnight is famous to the world for such things as starting the great cattle drives, inventing the Chuck Wagon and blazing the Goodnight Trail. In the Texas Panhandle the Goodnights are famous as agents of civilization. They founded and funded the first banks, colleges, libraries and fire departments in the region. Their graves are still much visited.

Palo Duro Canyon is known as “the Grand Canyon of Texas”. Goodnight originally started the ranch with his partner George Adair (pronounced like “a dare” with the accent on the “a”) in the upper canyon in the vicinity of Palo Duro Canyon State Park. Later they split and the Goodnights moved down canyon to the area that is now Caprock Canyons State Park. The two parks are about fifty miles apart as the buzzard flies or about 150 miles apart by good road (as in “you can’t get there from here”). The original Goodnight homestead was located just outside the first park and in the 1950’s it was lovingly disassembled and reassembled inside the park. I remember playing in it as a boy. Eventually it collapsed and an almost identical new structure using a few of the original timbers was built. This is the dugout home in the video.

Goodnight originally tried to drive the bison from the canyon- several times. They came back. He finally gave up and tolerated them. He allowed the buffalo hunt to get rid of them. The bit about Molley (Mary) chastising him is true enough- as told by her in later years. He did bottle feed the calves. They each drank three gallons of cow’s milk a day. Although he looked and looked the three older survivors were found by neighbors and brought to him. Without them and their knowledge of what it means to be a wild bison the calves would have just become furry cows. [By the way, a recent genetic study shows that Texas Longhorns trace their line directly back to the first dozen cattle brought to the New World by Columbus.] Goodnight originally wanted to save a few bison to cross them with cattle in an effort to improve his stock to local conditions. He was the first to do so and called them beefalo. The bovine genes which plague our surviving bison herds can be traced back to his experiments. Fortunately he was an early proponent of barbed wire and he scrupulously kept his “wild ‘uns” from his beefalo. After he died, his relatives had the experimental herd slaughtered along with most of the bison. The ones which survived were across the wire on Adair’s ranch at the time.

The bison weren’t quite forgotten. In the 1970’s the owners proposed to kill them off in what they promoted as “The Last Great Buffalo Hunt”. It was to cost $100,000 per hunter. Public outcry put an end to the plan. We think. It is interesting to note that none of the substantial deposits to hunt were returned and that in this time period the herd mysteriously dropped from 180 to about 30. It is alleged that the hunt took place in secret and, once again, the ones which survived were across the wire at the time.

Texas Parks and Wildlife Department didn’t exactly jump at the offer. At first they said “No”. Two years later a German bison genetics researcher urged them to reconsider and protect the herd because it was so valuable. Of the various herds of all five surviving species of bison this was the only one with pure bison genes from one species. [Most of the bison in North America have genes from cattle and almost all of the Plains Bison include genes from Wood Bison. The three Eurasian species have all acquired genes from North America.] At that point the bison hadn’t been seen in two years and it took five days of searching from an airplane to locate them. Unfortunately there was the genetic bottleneck (it probably wouldn’t have occurred if all 180 had survived the ‘70s). Yellowstone does not have any stock only from the Goodnight line. All of their bison include genes from all the early surviving herds. Many of them also have cattle and Wood Bison genes. There are some small groups which are free of the foreign species genes but all of the Yellowstone bison now carry Brucellosis and federal law prevents their transfer. [Brucellosis is a cattle disease which bison can carry. It does not harm the bison but infected cattle have very reduced reproduction. Ranchers hate it because it destroys their profits.] The best compromise turned out to be the stock from Ted Turner (media mogul and largest land owner west of the Mississippi as well as ardent conservationist), which originally came from Yellowstone, because they were free of cattle genes. The jury is still out on the effect of the new genes but we are cautiously optimistic.

I shot this over a period of three days and had some trouble cutting it together because one day was quite overcast with poor light, the next bright sunshine and the last mixed clouds. I did the best I could to combine them. Comments and critique are welcomed.

In the note I mentioned pinto beans and cornbread. There is an awfully lot of, to my mind, truly awful wheat-flour and egg based “corncake” going around as cornbread now, so I take the liberty of giving you an authentic cornbread recipe. I have made it this way literally hundreds of times.

Cowboy Cornbread

In a well seasoned cast-iron skillet melt three big wallops of grease, lard or shortening.

In a big bowl put-
two right-smarts of masa, cornmeal or Indian Meal
a pinch of salt
two big pinches of baking powder
a small dab of sugar (if available)

Stir in unsweetened tinned milk until soupy (fresh milk if available).
Pour in the melted fat and stir then pour back into the skillet and bake over the coals of a good fire until the bread is done when it pulls away from the sides and just begins to crack on top.


Sorry. I can’t share with you my family’s secret recipe for pinto beans. I might git shot.

Chris Barcellos
April 3rd, 2013, 02:02 PM
Like that one Mike. Nice story to go with some interesting footage.

Simon Wood
April 3rd, 2013, 03:43 PM
Yeehaw!

Always loved the wild-west, and pretty much anything to do with Texas, so I told my wife to start cooking your recipe double-quick-time so I could enjoy your campfire story....but she just gave one of those looks that told me 'Don't push it, buster'. Sheesh.

Anyway, I grabbed a bottle of Jim Beam bourbon and some ice (yeah I know its from Kentucky but I'm in Uganda so I have to work with what I have) and settled down to watch your movie.

I liked your light hearted tone. You actually delivered a lot of information in that 4 minutes, so as a tall-tale it really worked.

Your photography is great; the color of those red hills is really vibrant against the blue sky and green bushes. It looks great. Nice cloud time-lapses too.

The various sound effects really sell this story; bet you had fun doing that!

Your Bison shots are nicely done, and all in all I reckon your imagery matches your narration well. Maybe, in a perfect world it would have been cool to start and end the story with a bunch of guys sitting around a campfire, with the narrator telling the story...but maybe not.

By the way; I hear you Texans are pretty proud about your Longhorn cattle. I gotta tell you, here in Uganda we have cattle, the Ankole, that make your Longhorns look like a Mini-Beltie. I reckon if we ever get a UWOL challenge theme relating to farming you and I should go head-to-head, Longhorn vs Ankole; take that as a challenge, pardner.

Bob Thieda
April 3rd, 2013, 06:19 PM
Mike....that was just great fun!

Historic and entertaining. Loved the "special effects." I am a big fan of western history and this really hit home...nicely done.

Now tell me...and I mean no offense...but is that your voice? Your real accent? Because it made the film for me...

Markus Nord
April 4th, 2013, 02:20 AM
Nice one Mike, really entertaining !
Good story and edited.
I'll second that Simon wrote about a camp fire... I would have loved that.

Trond Saetre
April 4th, 2013, 09:11 AM
Hi Mike,

Interesting history and stunning visuals. A great match!
What an amazing scenery you have over there! Just like all the western movies I have seen. :)
The VO was really good. Made the film even better.

Thank you for sharing!

Paul Wood
April 4th, 2013, 10:23 AM
Thanks, Mike,

I loved this film!

Entertaining, excellent visuals - and left me wanting to know more.

Thanks!

Mike Sims
April 4th, 2013, 11:51 AM
Thanks, Chris, I’m glad you liked it.

Mike Sims
April 4th, 2013, 11:52 AM
Simon- Whoa Nelley! Are you a-callin me out? Video showdown at high noon? OK. OK. I capitulate. I’ve seen those Ankole and they are mighty impressive. Actually, the two are quite closely related. (Certainly closer than either is to the “improved” European breeds that now dot our landscapes.) Columbus got his cattle from the Cape Verde Islands and the stock had come from the mainland only a few years earlier. Africa has more breeds of cattle than anywhere else because they were first domesticated there and because so many of its cultures have revered them for wealth and status. Besides, I’m a three time Aggie (Texas A&M University) and our arch rivals are the University of Texas whose mascot is- you guessed it- the Texas Longhorn. It would be bad form for me to defend them too vigorously. ;)

Mike Sims
April 4th, 2013, 11:53 AM
Bob- I’m pleased that a western history buff enjoyed it. The VO is an exaggerated version of my own accent- sort of. I was trying to do a North Texas accent but kept slipping into my own South Texas accent (but a bit over the top!). I think of it as one quarter cut Slim Pickens, one quarter cut Festus Haggen (from Gunsmoke Math-yew) and the rest from memories of my Great-uncle Les and Uncle Nathan. A real Texan will note that I was speaking much too quickly so I could meet the time limit. Because of that they might not entirely trust me, or they might be charitable and allow that I must be an overly excitable type.

Mike Sims
April 4th, 2013, 11:54 AM
Thanks, Markus. I agree, Simon’s idea about the campfire scene is a good one. I could probably have shot it, but only in February when we have the Rodeo or later this summer when the cowboys are out working.

Mike Sims
April 4th, 2013, 11:55 AM
Hey, Trond! I’m glad you liked it. I’m especially glad you liked the scenery because I’m always so jealous of your Norwegian scenery! I’m also always self conscious about my voice-overs and wasn’t quite sure how this one would be received.

Mike Sims
April 4th, 2013, 11:57 AM
Thanks, Paul. I tried to give you more information in my long-winded first post to this thread. I hope you saw it. Let me know if you have any questions.

Bill Thesken
April 5th, 2013, 12:26 AM
Awesome story.
Did that critter at the 00:03 mark just appear out of nowhere?

Some interesting quips.
Hell Yeaah! And life wuz good. Ted Turner heard about the herd.

I want to try that cornbread recipe, just got to get me a 'right smart' of corn meal
and the other fixins :)

Geir Inge
April 5th, 2013, 10:01 AM
Hi Mike.

You provide a wonderful movie in this round.
Along with Dale, I think you have the best sound.
As a child, I never got enough of cowboy and Indian movies and books.
This brought up childhood memories, I dreamed about coming to America and still does.
Editing and comments are excellent performed.
What an amazing story that you describe in an elegant way.
Had to see (and hear) it several times to get all the points.

Great delivered and thanks for sharing.

Dale Guthormsen
April 5th, 2013, 02:41 PM
Mike,

What a great story!!! I loved gthe shots and had a pleasent chuckle as thre couboy rode acroos the screen, just a fun watch!! the character of the naration also added hugly to the feel of the story.

Job Well done!!

Not much else to other than THANKS for taking the time!!!



dale

Finn-Erik Faale
April 5th, 2013, 02:47 PM
Mike, I understand that days and weeks of work lies behind these four minutes.
The film is overflowing with surprising ideas and inventions.
I have enjoyed watching several times to perceive and absorb everything. The editing is exemplary.
Thank you for the Wild West story.

Paul Wood
April 5th, 2013, 03:46 PM
Mike,

I should just clarify - when I said I wanted to know more, it was probably my bad english usage! - I meant I enjoyed it so much, I cant wait for part two, to find out more about the ranch around the next bend!

Your explanation was great!

Mike Sims
April 5th, 2013, 06:40 PM
Thanks Bill. That was a very lucky grab shot. I was shooting the turkeys and I barely heard someone about 150 feet behind me say “Oh look, mountain goats!” Mountain goats have never lived in Palo Duro Canyon but historically Big-horned Sheep did. They were all killed for meat by the early settlers. I turned around and saw a man pointing something out to his small daughter. I turned the camera, zoomed in and just caught the two Aoudad (Barbary Sheep) before they disappeared. These are introduced from northern Africa and are widely found in Texas. Unfortunately there is an out of focus tree limb in the shot.

The early recipes were written for people without access to precise measuring tools. Here are the approximate modern equivalents.
A big wallop is about a tablespoon.
A right-smart is a heaping fistful- about a cup.
A pinch is the amount you can comfortably pinch between the thumb and two fingers- about ½ teaspoon.
Two big pinches is about a heaping teaspoon.
A dab is a small piece of something solid, a small dab of sugar would be about ¼ teaspoon.
It will require a little over a cup of milk to make the mixture “soupy”.
If you haven’t got the coals from a good fire handy try a modern oven at 350°F for about 20 minutes.

Mike Sims
April 5th, 2013, 06:43 PM
Thanks, Geir Inge. I’m glad you enjoyed it. In the old days when people were quite spread out communities would regularly all come together at a designated spot and camp out for a few days and visit. We called them Camp Meetings. There are a couple that are still being held but they have become religious retreats. It wasn’t always so. As the meeting was breaking up people would invite each other to visit them at home when possible. The phrase that was used is “Y’all come!” Many of our early settlers (my own family among them) came here from Tennessee and it is a condensation of an old Tennessee saying “Y’all come back now!” (which was made famous at the end of the Beverly Hillbillies). I hope you get the chance to visit Texas. If you do (and this goes for all you UWOLers)- Y’all come!

Mike Sims
April 5th, 2013, 06:44 PM
Thanks Dale. I did that cowboy animation with After Effects.

Mike Sims
April 5th, 2013, 06:45 PM
My pleasure, Finn-Erik. I’m glad you enjoyed it. Thank-you much for the compliment about the editing. I had a lot of fun with it. Shooting the buffalo was quite fun also. Several times they came up within several feet of me to see what I was doing. They seem to be very curious critters.

Mike Sims
April 5th, 2013, 06:47 PM
Thanks again Paul. I think your English is probably better than Mine!

One thing I should have said something about earlier is Adobe Walls. It was a trading post and small walled settlement in the panhandle that catered to outfitting the buffalo hunters. It is the site of the famed “Battle of Adobe Walls”. Several hundred plains Indians attacked trying to stop the slaughter of their livelihood. Unfortunately, they only learned the foolishness of attacking well provisioned and forted-up men that are accustomed to killing at ranges of well over half a mile.

Oliver Pahlow
April 7th, 2013, 11:58 AM
That was a great story Mike. Great shots of the Buffalo and countryside. Your another one who has some great scenery in your backyard. I enjoyed watching it. Thanks.

Marj Atkins
April 8th, 2013, 01:51 PM
Hi Mike. As far as I’m concerned this is your best movie yet – even beats your amazing spelunking film!! I give you 10/10 for originality and entertainment value. You managed to turn a potentially boring story about how the Bison were saved into something quite amazing! I can’t remember a story better told than this in the UWOL Challenge and over and above that you never dropped that accent once – certainly not to my ear anyway – although you say those more knowledgeable would pick up the differences between north and south.

I chuckled at some of your colorful phrases said with such gusto ( ‘..and things was gud’ and ‘..for the sound of orphan cavs bawlin..’) while the corny cowboy cut-out and contrived sound effects throughout added the finishing touches to this very entertaining piece.

Your story was well-constructed with a good variety of appropriate images to support it. Wonderful scenery, with cloud time lapses thrown in for good measure. (Spectacular star photo!) I enjoyed getting a good look at another part of our world and was quite intrigued by the red hue of the river canyon.

Sixty million head down to only thirty?!! Wow and I thought that knocking off more than three and a half million penguins was bad enough.

Well done Mike – one of my favourites!

Mike Sims
April 8th, 2013, 06:47 PM
I’m glad you liked it, Marj. Thank-you so much for the encouraging words. I had a lot of fun making this one. I still have a good bit of unreviewed footage and I have this nagging fear that I have some better shots that I didn’t show you. There is one shot that I missed and hope to some day go back and get. The bison visit a small lake everyday to drink. When the herd crests a small rise and can see the water a couple of hundred yards away the younger adults break into a run and race each other to the water. The sight of twenty to thirty bison running shoulder to shoulder in obvious glee is really something to see.

Mike Sims
April 8th, 2013, 06:50 PM
Thanks for the kind words, Oliver. The scenery I showed you isn’t exactly in my backyard. Texas is a large state with many varied habitats. I had to drive a good ways to reach this one. It wasn’t easy. I’m in a sort of predicament. At a time when the insane rate of urban development means I have to go farther and farther away to shoot the subjects I enjoy I find myself less and less able to do so. I am now primary care-giver for my father (he has Parkinson’s). I had to hire a nurse in able to get away and shoot for this round. It will be one of my major expenses for this year but was totally worth it. I needed to get away. I find UWOL therapeutic. I don’t like to think about a coming time when I won’t be able to participate. One incident from UC25 really stands out for me. I was filming the shot with the calves (by the way they are too old for that segment; suckling calves have a bright rusty color). They were across a road from me. I was concentrating on getting the shot when I felt warm breath on my neck and that buffalo sound deep in my chest. I looked up and turned to find a large bull standing right next to me. They can move very quietly when they want to. I could have easily reached out and touched him. He was just checking me out to make sure I meant the calves no harm. We looked each other in the eye- for over three minutes (I know because I had left the camera running!). Finally he seemed to sigh as if to say “These humans sure are foolish but at least this one seems mostly harmless”. He turned very slowly and walked away. I felt elated. Three minutes with that buffalo was worth more than a tropical vacation or any amount of time with a therapist.

Mike Sims
April 15th, 2013, 09:52 AM
I have been asked if a special permit is required to gain access to the bison. The answer is no. After paying a modest ($5) entrance fee, all park visitors can easily see the bison herd. Caprock Canyons State Park has excellent camping facilities and can accommodate everything from primitive camping for backpackers to RVs. The sister park, Palo Duro Canyon SP, has camping as well as luxury cabins on the canyon rim with spectacular views. Reservations for either park can be made online.

Here is a lo-res pano I took at CCSP.

Lorinda Norton
April 20th, 2013, 11:21 AM
Mike, you are full of surprises! Your walk on the corny side took me quite by surprise, allowing me to "have' to watch this entry many times to get the full effect.

As others mentioned, the opening scene with its expanse and perfect music did its job of hooking me and reeling me in. Little did I know what a mixed bag of humor, history, and exceptional images of Texas wildlife you had planned for us!

Forgive me if I missed this in the comments, but was the shot of the night sky at 3:35 static or a photo? About the brucellosis, the definition of which I had to look up, even though you had time to define it I'm glad you didn't. It would have broken the spell of some mighty fine storytelling.

Well done, Mike, and congratulations on a much-deserved win!

Mike Sims
April 21st, 2013, 10:53 AM
Thank-you, ma’am. The shot you asked about is a composite still. The sky is from a shot I took at the same time I was out shooting the comet (March 10). I was feeling pretty rotten at the time. It was shot later in the evening and pointing away from the city lights but at the same location. Canon 550D with Canon 28mm f/1.8- 30 sec exposure @ f/4 ISO 800. It was processed with some standard astrophoto techniques to expand the histogram, darken the background and increase color in the highlights. The foreground of the composite is a frame from video (XL-H1/Samurai). The original shot looked much like the clip at 2:35- it was taken two shots later from roughly the same location. I removed the sky and feathered the edge a few pixels. I then dropped the gamma, lowered the red channel significantly, boosted the blue channel slightly and gave the resulting RGB channel a strong S-curve. After compositing I lowered the saturation with the result you see.

David Elkins
April 24th, 2013, 10:56 AM
Mike,
That's a fantastic story well told. Nice work and congrats on your win!!

Mike Sims
April 25th, 2013, 06:42 AM
Thanks, David. I hope we will see you again in June. We've missed you.