I'm probably dreaming but thought I'd throw this one out there anyway!

Just bought 3 new HD, HDMI capable monitors, 2 X 7" and 1 X 5". One for the steadicam, one for the jib and the smaller one to mount on camera when needed. I had intended to use HDMI cable to connect them to the HDMI out on my Sony PMW-350 but I suddenly thought, is there a wireless sender/receiver option around? So my question is this, does anyone know of a smallish TX/RX set up for HDMI, preferably in dongle/stick form? I realize both ends would likely need powering so ideally I would like them to be able to take a Dtap from a Vlock battery to their power inputs. Not asking for much am I?

Could anyone point me in the right direction, or is this compact HDMI TX/RX set-up yet to be invented?

Forgot to mention the main reason I want wireless images, one would also be used as a Director's monitor, last thing I want is a Director attached to my camera, especially on a documentary! The current all-in-one systems, though, are ridiculously expensive.

I'm probably dreaming but thought I'd throw this one out there anyway!

Just bought 3 new HD, HDMI capable monitors, 2 X 7" and 1 X 5". One for the steadicam, one for the jib and the smaller one to mount on camera when needed. I had intended to use HDMI cable to connect them to the HDMI out on my Sony PMW-350 but I suddenly thought, is there a wireless sender/receiver option around? So my question is this, does anyone know of a smallish TX/RX set up for HDMI, preferably in dongle/stick form? I realize both ends would likely need powering so ideally I would like them to be able to take a Dtap from a Vlock battery to their power inputs. Not asking for much am I?

Could anyone point me in the right direction, or is this compact HDMI TX/RX set-up yet to be invented?

This should do it.

IDX CW-1 Wireless HDMI Video Transmission System CW-1 B&H Photo

Looked at that one before Chris, not entirely convinced.

Also being a short production run product the price is still way over similar AC "plug-in" domestic versions. On top of that Australian retailers are asking over 50% more for it, despite the Australian dollar being worth more than the US! Can it hook up to a v-lock? That would be a good start. Actually just bought several D-tap to Blackmagic camera cables for my monitors, all work perfectly for a different purpose, if these would do the same I'd be very happy!

I built a cable to go from d-tap to the 5v input of the transmitter for mine. Easy to do and cost less than $40 in parts.

You can go with the consumer level stuff. For the most part they use the same chipset.

this device is sold by several companies (IDX,Paralinx,Nyrius and possibly others).
Paralinx and IDX sell it for $1000+ but Nyrius is selling it for $220. They all look exactly the same.
I purchased 2 sets (Nyrius) from AMAZON and it works well (even the 3D from my sony TD10 is transmitted correctly to my Samsung TV). They are compatibles between brand so you can use one emitter of one brand with receiver of the other brand.

That looks familiar... Did Paralinx license the technology to IDX? Cause that is exactly what the Paralinx Arrow looks like...

Cine Gear 2012: Paralinx Arrow on Vimeo

Lets just say there is a reason they all look alike and leave it at that.

I built a cable to go from d-tap to the 5v input of the transmitter for mine. Easy to do and cost less than $40 in parts.

You can go with the consumer level stuff. For the most part they use the same chipset.

I take it Chris, that it is Dtap to USB?

I built a cable to go from d-tap to the 5v input of the transmitter for mine. Easy to do and cost less than $40 in parts.

You can go with the consumer level stuff. For the most part they use the same chipset.

Just another one Chris, you mean you are taking the power from a v-lock battery? Isn't the voltage/amperage too much, or can these things handle a range of power inputs?

Another alternative might be this lifetrons power pack (see photos) which I actually bought to remotely charge my "i-things". The HDMI monitor is already independently powered so I suppose I could just use one of these at both the TX and RX ends for HDMI transfer, would that work? I guess I would then just use normal USB cables as the lifetrons has both USB and mini-USB in/outs on either end of the unit. Is 1amp enough to make each end of the HDMI system work?

Those batteries work great for the mini HDMI transmitters.

I built my own cable with a voltage regulator to knock the voltage down to 5v. Mine have a small DC plug as well as a USB connector for power.

Since I use the transmitter on a steadicam rig as well I wanted to minimize the number of pieces I had to manage. I wanted to run everything off the camera battery.

If you are looking for a dead simple regulator check these out. I started using these regulators to build cables for on car video transmitters a few years ago. They are dead simple to use and rock stable.

3 amp version - 3A Adjustable step down switching voltage regulator (http://www.dimensionengineering.com/products/de-swadj3)

1 amp version - Adjustable step down switching voltage regulator (http://www.dimensionengineering.com/products/de-swadj)

the device require too many power , more than you can get from an usual USB port (usually max 1A)
Some USB can give more especially if they are not on a computer, so you need to give a try.
Most of device providing 5V on a USB socket are specifying hom much you can load it.

Giroud, It seems that one end of this HDMI system needs 1A and the other 2A, so judging by that, this might be the answer, especially for the price!

Amazon.com: PowerGen PGMPP12000 12000mAh External Battery Pack High Capacity Power Bank Charger Triple USB 3Amps output for Apple iPhone 5 4s 4 3Gs 3G, iPod Touch, iPad 1 2 3 4, The New iPad 3/ HTC sensation, XE, XL, One X S V, Thunderbolt, Inspire 4

i got 3 power bank like this one and they are ok (but the USB output is limited to 2A, and there is only one, so it could be a limitation).
from my experience , the emitter ask for 1A and you really need to provide this current because i tested several cheap chinese adapter providing 5V 1A, and it was not working.

Thanks Giroud, I have now ordered 2 X 20000mah batteries out of Hong Kong, I expect these and the HDMI TX RX kit to arrive separately in the next few days. Once I get it working (somehow!) I will post photos. Total cost will be about US$400, a lot cheaper than dedicated systems and from what I have read, probably over a greater distance. It would have all cost US$300 except for the rip-off freight costs on some of these sites.

Just a quick update, have received the Nyrius aries pro kit today and have completed some basic testing.

First impression is very good, although both the transmitter and receiver ends get quite warm so am a little worried in our desert environment, too late to really check as the hot weather has now gone for 6 months. Tested line of sight for 50 metres, no problems. You will get an image through several walls, but not a good one. If you are within 10 metres, regardless of walls you can expect perfectly clear 1080. Am still awaiting the 20000mah phone batteries from Hong Kong to power both ends remotely, but maybe I don't need them. Preliminary tests today on the transmitter indicated I should be able to run at least that end for about 4 hours on a 6000mah battery pack. Anyway I'm hoping the rest arrives in the next day or so as I'm on a shoot in the desert all next week so it will be quite a while before I get back to you all otherwise!

Forgot to mention Chris, the Nyrius Pro I just bought appears to be, in every respect, the same product as the IDX but about a quarter the price.

This should do it.

IDX CW-1 Wireless HDMI Video Transmission System CW-1 B&H Photo (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/908055-REG/idx_cw_1_wireless_hdmi_transmitter.html)

We’ll have Paralinx, IDX and Teradek wireless HDMI sets (with battery solutions) working on various cams at our NAB booth C11143.

Rich Greb
CMR

In terms of price, probably talking apples and oranges though, Rich.

My intention here is just to put together a budget solution for those of us who will only need this capability every now and then. When using monitors on camera and on jib, I'll be using HDMI cable. When working with a Director, which is usually only a couple of times a year (as I usually shoot and direct myself), I will use the wireless system.

Just had a look back at the costs and if you take out the freight, this system, including high capacity batteries, will only cost me $227! According to a discussion on Blackmagic forum the Nyrius unit is almost identical to the Paralinx, including similar, if not the same, Amimon chipsets. I think the big difference is that the Nyrius won't work on more than one receiver simultaneously, but I don't need that anyway.

Apologies for those still waiting for me to come up with "the "rig". It's been one of those "plans of mice and men" moments and as I live in small town with limited access to specialist technical bits, and have been busy, makes it hard for me to complete this. The problem is a simple cable for the receiver end to power it, as that is not supplied as they presume you are not going to be running it portable, but through AC.

The transmitter runs fine off the portable battery with power into the mini USB port, however even though the receiver also has a mini USB-in it won't accept power there to run it. It will only accept power through the DC-in port, so I need a short USB to centre pin positive barrel connector to make it work. Trouble is I need to find the right one, I even bought a whole interchangeable-end phone charger yesterday but NONE of the DC ends fitted, although I know they exist. I am now just trudging through the last chances I have in town of finding such a thing when I get a chance, ordering it online also seems out of the question as I have to know exactly what the end is called and its exact inside and outside measurement, as well as making sure it is centre-positive. So maybe don't hold your breath, what a shame such a little thing can trip us over.

OK guys sorry about all that, but I now have a functioning set-up for transmitting HDMI from camera to monitor/TV/ or whatever will receive HDMI. I must stress that this is just for function not form/ergonomics.
I will of course be thinking long and hard on how to make the monitor end tidier, easier to carry and pulling back in the protrusions.

I have got to say I am astonished at the transmission range. Early tests showed about 50 metres, but I found it was getting drop outs due to poor HDMI cables and looseish power connections.
After working through those this morning I walked from the house to the back fence on our rural block until I could go no further. It was still putting out a very solid signal at 98 metres! Actually I was sure I would lose it out there as there are several light trees in the way and I had to walk down and through a large drain but it still didn't drop out. Please see photos for how it all currently connects, got the USB power cables made up at the local Jaycar (like a Radioshack) in the end.

i had no time to make more test with the nyrius, so possibly you already got the answer.
Does the nyrius set requires a particular postion of emitter and receiver, in order to get the best range ?
I know the emitter has the antenna at the end of the usb stick and i see many examples where the stick is mounted vertically. there is few example showing how the receiver is oriented.
I have not been able to find a graph showing how MIMO antenna radiates.

Giroud,

I presume the transmitter is optimized to operate vertically as it would seem very silly to require it to stick out horizontally. Your question is a good one, and I also haven't have time to play with that side of it. Of course like all such things it is generally line of sight so I try to have the transmitter side of the camera (in my case the side the HDMI port is) in line with wherever the transmitter is. The further the distance the more important that is. When I do get time to experiment I will let you know. By the way, the reason I have the receiver mounted out is partially about getting better reception, but also to help dissipate the substantial heat it produces.

Bottom line for my purposes is that 99% of the time the Director will be within 10 metres of me anyway, so I am not really too fussed by long distance issues.

Silly it may seem, Chris, the system will work best if the transmitter and receiver are oriented flat, horizontal and pointing towards each other (the ends opposite the HDMI connector being the antenna ends). A couple of your countrymen discuss this issue in a recent video (http://www.fxphd.com/blog/toptech-paralinx-arrow-plus/), where they mention the antenna orientation that Dan from Paralinx told me about.

Also, to address another "presumption", this from Chris Medico earlier in this thread, while there are a number of similar looking units out there, yes they all use the Amimon chipset but that doesn't make them all perform identically (Paralinx specs different antennaes than the Nyrius and has dynamic frequency selection, for instance). I used the first gen Amimon products intensively, and know firsthand from owning both that the Boxx Meridien way outperformed the IDX Camwave, although they too had the same chipset.

Charles, good to hear from you as always. I really don't know enough about the physics involved in having to choose between horizontal and vertical antenna polarization on a given device. All I will say is that even vertically mounted I was astonished at the range, and as I will almost always be working way below that range it is probably something I won't have to give much thought to in future.

Bottom line is it is all very well for me to go for a walk in the park with it, but I really won't know good, bad or indifferent this set-up is until I actually use it on a job. Still, in terms of bang for buck I doubt I will do much better. By the way I made a typo early on in this thread saying the whole TX/RX rig set up would only cost me $227 ex-freight, actually with the battery packs from Hong Kong and the two leads I had made up it has cost $327. Still, way less than all the others.