I have been playing with the 663 o/p monitor and have a question regarding the pixel to pixel feature.

I have the setting at full screen and 1080i. If I turn on the pixel to pixel setting the screen only shows around 80% of what the camera sees (according to my LCD viewfinder). I have a Sony PMW-EX1 with the guide frame on the camera LCD set to 90%.

I called Lilliput and they told me that there is no way to get pixel to pixel full screen.

So my question is, what good is it? I thought it was supposed to be important.

Secondly, what do you have your own camera viewfinder guide frame and the Lilliput viewfinder guide frames respectively set to?

Thanks,

John

I guess it is supposed to make it easier to focus because it doesn't scale, but on a 7 inch monitor does anyone find it helpful in that respect?

Panagiotis Raris said earlier in this thread that he leaves it in 1:1 mode all the time.

If you are still following this thread, how does one shoot like that without knowing what is in the camera's view?

John

So I have the 663 here in front of me and a 5D Mark II, but I cannot get video to it at all. The monitor seems to be working and getting video from other sources through HDMI, and the 5D is outputting video to other monitors through HDMI, but I cannot get HDMI from 5D to Lilliput

anything special I need to do?

edit: it is displaying properly with PS3, Canon C300. Not displaying properly from Paralinx Arrow (lots of green lines and dots flickering throughout the image) and no display at all from 5D Mark II (even with Magic Lantern forcing 480P)

bum monitor?

Michael,

I don't own a DSLR but I did a little research and found this:

HDMI Output - Magic Lantern Firmware Wiki (http://magiclantern.wikia.com/wiki/HDMI_Output)

Not sure if that has anything to do with the problem, but further down in the article they stated the following:

"the HDMI output from the Canon HDMI is limited to 1620x1080 (3:2) while the camera is not recording."

In other words the HDMI output is compressed on that camera.

Have you tried switching the monitor back and forth between "full" and "16:9" in the monitor menu?
Alternately you could try "pixel to pixel" to see if you get an image.

Have you tried another HDMI to Mini HDMI cable?

Have you tried another monitor (even an LCD TV) with an HDMI input?

If you bought it from Lilliput, have you called to speak to their tech?

John

I have both t2i and t3i both work for me. Stupid question but have you enabled HDMI in Canon's menu.

I spoke with Lilliput reps at NAB regarding the 1:1 garbled screen on exit and could not replicate it on their demo 663 O/P/S on display; I was told to return my unit directly for replacement. I brought the two ML T2i's I used it on, no problem on their units.

If anyone else has this issue, please contact them directly; I brought their attention to this thread as well. For the money, features, and price, they have some great products. I checked out some other companies, Ruige, Ikan, SmallHD, and two or three more brands with my T2i and I believe it's overall the best entry/client/reference monitor that I saw or used. I was hoping to post some pics of the 663 versus the VH8 and Manhattan HD089B and SmallHD DP7 but didn't have enough time and ManhattanLCD I do not believe was there.

The USB port is for firmware update only according to the reps I spoke with.

663 is HDMI in as Well as BNC component
663 O means HDMI in and out plus above features
663 O/P means peaking/false color/zebra more plus above features
663 O/P/S means SDI plus above features

John Peterson, is there a progressive display mode you could try? It works fine with 1080i cropped in or 1:1 on my Nikon D300; maybe an EX1 issue?

John Peterson, is there a progressive display mode you could try? It works fine with 1080i cropped in or 1:1 on my Nikon D300; maybe an EX1 issue?
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Progressive mode on the camera, yes, but I shoot 60i interlaced because I shoot theatre productions mostly and 60i gives me the best light gathering ability.

Lilliput stated on the phone that full screen is not possible on the 663 in 1:1 (pixel to pixel) mode.

It will always be cropped. Are you saying that you are able to view pixel to pixel full screen from your Nikon?

Otherwise, how to you compose your shots if your viewfinder is always cropped by 1:1 mode? You said you leave it in that mode all the time.

Thanks,

John

i normally use it to fine focus with older manual lenses; ill go check if its true 1:1 with the D300 and T2i's.

Just a note on the T2i/3i/4i/5i.. the HDMI is NOT compressed, it's just not full 1920x1080, it's cropped. The trick is to crop it further then resize it. I've not yet seen it since my dang HDMI output died on my T2i, hoping to get that fixed sooner than later.

I have the Ikan VH8 and it's pretty nice in terms of picture quality, love the 1600x768 res. I thought it was IPS which dismays me a bit, but it's really light and with a bit better sunshade than what it comes with, it does the job very well during daylight.

I believe it has the DSLR option to fit the truncated HDMI out to the full screen, but not for sure on that. I forgot what that option was but I think some monitors will automatically crop then resize for you so you could feed the output of the monitor to a Shuttle 2 for recording 1920x1080.

Our 663 came back from the shop today, after previously having arrived defective. They charge shipping back. At least it is fixed now.

I just got the o/p version yesterday. I am connecting it to a Nikon D7000 which has a really weird hdmi out mode .. in any case. 1:1 mode seems to work just fine - I did not see anything garbled.
Compared to the nikon screen, this one seemed a bit off. It was too saturated and the tint was off a little. I hooked up the screen to my laptop (via displayport to hdmi adapter). I was hoping to use it as a second monitor occasionally, but what's weird is that from the computer, I cannot get a 1:1 pixel ratio when putting the resolution at 1280x800... I am not sure if it's the laptop or the screen but there's some scaling happening. In any case, I ran it through a Spyder 3 calibrator and in user mode was able to get the colors to be even. Here are the values I used:
R:135
G:124
B:129

I then compared the picture with that of the nikon by eye-balling it and set saturation to 34 and brightness to 48 to get it to look about the same

The build quality seems decent - the casing is actually metal. I am using knock-off canon batteries ($30 for 2 batteries and a charger from some company called "wasabi power"). I havent done any scientific measurements yet but seems to go about 2 hours before dying. Wish there was a battery level meter.

and for those that do use it with a computer - can you get it to display 1:1 without any weird scaling/sharpening artifacts?

Has anybody found any monitor yokes that fit this perfectly?

Hello guys...the price is really attractive...can anyone confirm that it has a DSLR scaling for Canon dslrs? you know, the moment I hit record the screen on the external monitor shrinks and rez drops to 460p but some monitors compensate for that a bit and keep the pic full size (at 480p) and at least the full screen is used? (mostly to calm down new clients who don't understand that the actual video being recorded is just fine...)..pls confirm! I don't see a dedicated button on the front of the monitor and the rep from Lilliput tells me that "there is a function in the menu for that"...I just want to know for sure before ordering...
if not IKAN it is!
Thanks
Erick

i'll take a look for you; I believe it does scale but you may have to force it full time. i still use mine a lot; love it actually.

tikanis Panagiotis! Much appreciated...a friend of mine has this monitor 663 o/p but the manual is not very clear! I found something on the menu that says Camera and the options are 1080i or 480p...not sure what does that...
maybe I'm just confused as to what DSLR scaling is...maybe the marketing I've seen in other monitors' brochures got me! I own the Canon 70D and If I press the button labelled "info" on the camera- the display goes away and the pic fills the screen..If I start recording while the pic is full screen, it stays fullscreen-but without the info on the screen...hmm..so what is this DSLR scaling other monitors claim to provide?
thanks for your help
Erick

Yiasou Erick!

(I love Toronto by the way; Montreal as well!) I have one t2i a friend is borrowing until friday night; ill connect it to the Lilliput and figure it out for you and post the menu sequence here; i have a launch model 663 O/P so i still have the garbled screen issue here and there (never sent it in for fix/replacement) but i will do the best i can.

Im a huge fan of these monitors; most of the people that rented them ended up buying them.

Ill be in touch and post here.

thanks again Panagiotis. I just want a decent monitor with a higher resolution than my current Marshall 800x480. I know i will use the zebra stripes for sure but not much else. I don't understand what the 1to 1pixel is or what it does!!
thanks!
Erick

We've been testing many monitors, including the Lilliput 663, to find the right monitors to sell with our Radian wireless HDMI sets. Still testing more, and the jury is still out for us.

But, we do have monitor yokes available, and with adjustable yoke height that works great with the 663. Please note introductory pricing ends 11/20/2013. Camera Motion Research - Camera Stabilization and Wireless HDMI Video (http://www.camotionllc.com)

Rich Greb
Camera Motion Research

Hi there. Can anyone who owns the lilliput 663 confirm or deny that the headphone jack outputs audio when a clip is playing back from the DSLR - i have a Canon 70D. I know that most canons don't carry audio ovr HDMI when recording but playback should be ok. If i can hear playback audio in the headphone of the lilliput that would be useful for me when having a client review a take and he/she demands to listen to the good take. The tiny speaker on the Dslr is not good enough.
Pls pls confirm.thanks
E

Although I don't normally use the 663 this way, I was interested to check it out.

The short answer is yes - it plays back as it should, audio over HDMI from a Canon 60D. No audio on record.

The 663's menu system is, um, very counterintuitive, and you do need to enable one of the 4 assignable knobs to control volume. It was enough to drive a pair of Sennheiser HD280 cans, these are not particularly sensitive.

update: thanks Seth. when I do paid corporate videos I use a Tascam DR100 mkii for audio with sennheiser G|2 wireless- I connect the \tascam line out (with the special attenuator cable) to my DSLR and so I get double audio recording...and the Tascam audio is better sure but the sennheiser gives a strong signal and if I keep the recording level relatively low in my Canon |t3i and now the Canon 70D then the audio recorded in the DSLR is very acceptable. In some instances when I don't really need the |Tascam then I just connect the sennheiser directly into the Canon 70D and now at least I can do a little test and with the Lilliput 663 I can listen thru the headphones if the sound is acceptable..in playback since no audio is carried over HDMI with the Canon 70D (and several others)- argh Canon! but I love their picture quality and I have lens so...
I got the Lilluput here in Toronto yesterday and I tried the audio in playback and assigned the R1 button to control the volume...but this weekend I will use it for a short interview and I know the client will want to watch and listen his interview after recording it...so when the moment comes to watch the best take, instead of connecting the headphones I will connect a JBL micro II speaker to the headphone jack of the lilliput 663 and I will be able to show the client his picture along with good sound...otherwise there's no way for me to show that I recorded good sound...sure I can play the .wav file on the Tascam but without pic and clients don't undertand what the limitations are with DSLRs...but they love the look!
I will shoot the interview with a Sigma 18-35mm f1.8 at telephoto and at f2.0!! wide open! oh yes, I will set the focus to AF face tracking and go for it!
But I confess that the touch screen on the 70D is very handy so I may do away with the Lilliput during recording and just use the camera's touch screen. For sit down interviews I also connect the camera via USB to my mac book pro and use EOS utility which allows me to see (but not hear) the live view coming from the camera in almost real time (slight delay but for interviews not a big deal)
I may use the Lilliput only for playback moments with audio for the client.
So the Lilliput is the cheapest monitor I found with the headphone function that helps me do my job.
If I wanted to be easy I would just use my Canon XF300 at 50mbps 4:2:2 and it would look sharp and get XLR sound etc but I wouldn't get the look only DSLRs can give...

The only thing I just don't understand about some of the new monitors is the DSLR scaling...what exactly does it do? Pressing the info button on the canon DSLR makes the on screen info go away but also zooms in the picture so as long as I press the info button before hitting record I can keep the video full size on the monitor...not sure then what the DSLR scaling does? I don't think the Lilliput has it anyway. But it has a nice 720P resolution and it comes with several goodies that the rest don't. Their customer service was responsive when I email them and that matters to me.
so...great addition to my growing company.
cheers
E

Just thought I'd chime in here with a mini review.. I recently bought a Lilliput 664/w 7" IPS monitor off Ebay (approx $350 USD).

It feels well built, very thin and light but solid enough to handle being knocked around.

A couple of battery plates are included, one for the common Sony NP-F670 battery which provides hours and hours of runtime.

The 1280x720 resolution gives a reasonably sharp image. The IPS panel gives fantastic viewing angles. It's perfect for framing up the shot but I have no clue how accurate the display is in terms of colour representation.

It comes with a large removable sun hood which attaches using velcro. However I prefer the foldable sun hood on the Lilliput 5D-II, as it doubles as a screen protector.

The monitor has a built-in 5.8GHz receiver which can be used with most video transmitters commonly used with aerial drones. I'm not sure if it's the aerial or the receiver itself, but the range is terrible compared to the receiver in my FatShark goggles.

It comes with a bunch of handy accessories; HDMI cable, AV cable, mains power adapter, hotshoe mount and sun hood.

In summary, great monitor. If you can find an Ebay listing that accepts offers, you can save around $50 depending on the seller. Totally worth the money for a budget monitor.

Based on the positive reviews here (and a good price) I just picked up a Lilliput 663/o for shooting with my Nikon D600 and Sony Z5U.

A question for those who have some experience - the image I'm getting from my Nikon DSLR does not fill the screen on the Lilliput - there's a large black border around the edge. If I try "1:1" mode, the image is actually too large for the screen and gets cropped. The user manual isn't offering much information - any ideas how to get 100% usage of the monitor's screen? Thanks!

Sam

hi Sam..does the Nikon have a button similar to the info button on the Canons? This button removes some of the display info and also zooms in the pic on my Lilliput. The trick is to hit before pressing record...and I think it works fine for me...some other monitors I hear have a DSLR scaling option but I didn't get the chance to try them..this Lilliput works just fine for me after some adjustments...does anyone know how to change the sharpness of the display? I think a little less would be better..
Erick

The D600 does have a control "ring" around the OK/select button that turns on/off histogram and other features. I'll try that - thanks!

Sam

After owning the Lilliput 663 O/P for a year, I can honestly say that it is practically impossible to accurately calibrate it.

If you change the input you have to calibrate it for that input, but while the unit remembers the settings for each input the calibrations are not accurate. What is particularly difficult is calibrating the unit to the Arib bars that my Sony PMW-EX1 generates. After extensively searching the internet, the only descriptions of how to calibrate an LCD monitor using Arib bars are insufficient to achieve good results with this monitor.
The biggest joke is trying to adjust the brightness until "the white box changes in intensity". It changes continuously as you change the level and where to stop is guesswork at best. In the end I eyeballed it just like you would with a small LCD television that costs a whole lot less.

John

hi there...this poor monitor gets trashed a lot!! and I think we forget that it is a budget monitor! Not worth thousands of $$...I agree that it cannot be calibrated professionally..it can get close in saturation and brightness-mostly by eye and it can look great on a the set of a corporate shoot for a "director" or client to look at the footage. It has a headphone out so I plug in a portable speaker and then I can play back the clip with sound.

I recently discovered that buried on the second page of the menu there is a shaprness control which helps as the default is too sharp...I assigned a button to sharpness and I can now lower it...it looks very nice on set. i use Sony Batteries and it gets used a lot on corporate shoots and also when I videotape live concerts. the velcro hood is awesome and it looks almost like a studio set up. I use the vectorscope etc on my Canon XF300- but this monitor helps a lot.
I also use it with my Canon 70D for composition and playback mostly as the Canon 70d touch screen goes blank when a monitor is connected so no point in connecting one during recording as i need access to the touch screen. But otherwise is a fine monitor. is there anything better for a similar price?