I hope nobody minds if I mention that I've updated the content of my F800 field guide and have released it as an iBook for the iPad and iPad mini. With over 225 pages of detailed information, plus 100 pages of step-by-step tutorials, you won't find a single important topic left out.

If you’re not familiar with Apple’s new iBook file format (launched in 2012), it is sort of a cross between an ordinary eBook and a full-blown iPad app. In fact, the F800 Field Guide contains interactive features and advanced functions that a plain eBook or hard-copy field guide couldn’t dream of.

You can read about the details of the book and download a 15-page sample from the iBookstore.
https://itunes.apple.com/us/book/vortex-medias-sony-pdw-f800/id594330267?mt=11&ign-mpt=uo%3D4

Thanks,
Doug

Hi Doug,

I have the hard copy of your F800 Field Guide and have found it very useful, Thank you!

Do the existing owners of the F800 guide get access to the updated content?

Cheers, Tim.

Doug, thats great news!

thx

Uli

Hi Tim,

Sorry, there's no way for us to offer a discounted version of the iBook for previous buyers of the printed book. All sales must go through Apple's iBookstore and there would be no way to do it. However, at $29.99, the price is 1/3 what the printed book used to cost -- and the iBook version is better.
Thanks for asking.

Hi Doug,

very good adaption of the book, though ibook is a bit slow on an iPad1.

Congratulations!

Uli

Hi Uli,

I'm glad that you like it. I would say you are a "power user" of these cameras, so if you like the book, I must be doing something right.

Regarding the speed, I don't find it too bad at all on my first-generation iPad. Of course, faster is always better!

In another thread, someone suggested this guide would be helpful to PMW 500 owners as well. Is this the case? I'm particularly interested in scene files and settings, etc for different filming scenarios. Would they be the same for the 500 as the F800?

If not, do you have plans to bring out a version for the 500?

Many thanks

Hi Kevin,

Those are good questions, but I am hesitant to recommend the F800 field guide for owners of the PMW-500 or 700. I'd rather not have someone buy it than to be disapppointed and say "you said it was going help me!" :-)

Although many of the features and functions of the cameras are identical, the menu organization and external controls are different. So when I say go to "operation menu XYZ and change setting X" that setting will most likely be in a totally different menu location on a 500 -- and in some cases, may not not even exist at all. The F800 has a lot of advanced features that can't be found on the PDW-700, let alone the PMW-500. The book is 225 pages long with another 100 pages of step-by-step tutorials on top of that, so a user would have to use a little detective work to adapt the information for their own camera. If someone is willing to do that extra work, then they would find the book useful.

Also, since I have almost no hands-on experience shooting with a PMW-500, I cannot say how well the paint settings I recommend for the F800 will work on a PMW-500. I assume they will look fine because every camera in the whole XDCAM product line can benefit from changing the same few settings, but I cannot speak from personal experience. If nothing else, it would get someone in the right ballpark.

So, if someone is interested in learning about the overall features and functions, and not too concerned if the menus and buttons are different places, then the book is probably worth the $30 bucks. That's the best answer I can give you. Thanks for asking.

I'm particularly interested in scene files and settings, etc for different filming scenarios.

Well, even F800 owners won't find a whole bunch of different scene files for various shooting scenarios in the book. I am philosophically opposed to the approach of constantly changing scene files and I believe it causes more problems that it solves. I do cover the paint menus in depth, and I do outline the recommended settings that I use myself, but I would be a hypocrite if I acted like you needed a whole bunch of different scene files to have onboard the camera. That's just nonsense and is usually promoted by people who havent' figured out a good scene file already or have the other cameras settings nailed down to go along with it. I swear there are people who are on a never-ending quest (not directed at you, Kevin) for some kind of magical settings or fariy dust that will suddenly give them great results. They would be better served by learning to master the camera in other ways. One or two scene files is really all that is needed if you're exposing properly, white balancing properly, choosing the right shutter speed and aperture, etc. I reject the whole idea that shooting with any of the XDCAM cameras requires a bunch of different scene files in your pocket, and I have yet to have anyone demonstrate to me that that approach will lead to better images and consistent results.

Of course, there are people who will strongly disagree with me, but I am still waiting for their book or ungraded samples of their work to convince me. Until then, I stand by my advice.

I fully understand and agree with what you're saying.

Maybe a guide to the 500 is a future project?

Ideally I'd like a paint/scene file for non graded work (which is what I'd use most of the time) and another when the pictures would be graded in post - that's all.

Are you willing to share the settings that you know produce good, consistent results?

Many thanks

Hi Kevin

As I said on the XDCAM user site.. Im with Doug here.. I,d rather have one set up that I like than a whole load of files stored in the camera.. maybe just old fashioned :).. each to their own anyway..

You could find the detail.. blk gamma etc .. settings you like.. then shoot REC 709 for ungraded work and hyper gamma,s for graded.. ?

I suggest using one of the Hypergammas for everything. I cannot envision a scenario where one of the Hypergammas would not be the best choice. REC709 is for the "other guys" who don't have the advantage of Sony's superior picture controls.

Thanks for that. Are you willing to expand and give information on the other paint settings that you use?

Kevin, that's what the book is for. In fact, it is really intended to educate the camera operator and share the knowledge that I've learned -- not just to provide a list of random settings. I do not believe in giving a list of ingredients without the rest of the recipe that goes along with it for making it all work. If someone just wants to program a bunch of menu settings into their camera without knowing why they are doing it, or how they should expose for the scene file they are creating, or what settings they should avoid using, then I am not the right person to ask.

But since you asked, you should choose a Hypergamma and drop the blacks maybe -5 to -10. That will get you 90% of the way to a decent picture on any XDCAM. Start there and then play with the settings yourself to build the look that YOU prefer. At a certain point, as long as you don't blow out the highlights or crush the blacks too deeply, scene files are just artistic choices and there is rarely a right or wrong setting. Different looks for different folks.

Thanks for that. The only problem with the net is that there's so much information, that's it's easy to lose oneself. I think you're right, I'll go back to basics and decide what I like rather than be influenced by other information. I suppose it's only natural when you have a new toy to read up about it, but sometimes you've got to cut through and find what's right for you.

The "bad" thing about hypergamma for your general work is that it somewhat darkens the overall picture (50% grey turns also darker).

Gives great latitude for outside (sunny) shots or general highlights work, but isnt a good choice when shooting in dark / low light environments where you could need that extra brightness in the picture.

At least heaving a "standard HG" setup and a second "ITU 709" setting is very handy.
If you feel more familiar with both you can start setting up more profiles for dedicated situations (saturated green for nature shots etc.)

best regards

Uli

I am hesitant to recommend the F800 field guide for owners of the PMW-500 or 700.

Doug, As a PDW700 user myself and interested in purchasing your guide, I see the paper book is sold out and the digital version is specific to the 800. Just wondering if you are working on a 700 version or if the 800 guide would be similar enough? I havent used an 800 personally and wonder if the user menus are numbered differently or much different?

eg I noted a comment on another thread that the 800 Detail is factory set softer than the 700, equivalent to -19 apparently (but not sure if on the 800 the menu says 0 or just ships at -19). Not completely sure of all the other differences and if any gotchas other than the advertised added features the 800 has.

Thanks
Mark

Hi Mark,

Thanks for your interest in a PDW-700 Field Guide. You are correct that the printed version of the F800/700 guide is sold out. Unfortunately, I don't have the time to create an iBook version for the 700 like I did for the F800. Yes, there are some differences between the cameras but as far as I know all the 700 owners who have purchased the F800 iBook are happy with it. The only paint menu difference is the detail level, and you already know about that. Most of the other difference are changes in the menu numbering and a few missing advanced features. At least 98% of the iBook applies to both cameras, and I think anyone who is at the level of owning an 700 should have no problem figuring out what applies and what doesn't. In hindsight I should have had the iBook cover both cameras, but my original intention was to create a specific book for each one . . . unfortunately a busy schedule this year has gotten in the way!

Hi Doug,

Thanks for replying, I purchased your iBook the other day and as you indicated it is straight forward for 700 operators to identify the minor differences that apply to 800 only.

Having seen some of your DVDs for other cameras, your sample footage on these DVDs does look good: Rich blacks and good colour saturation and I share your desire to create a look in camera that avoids grading since most of my work is long form, run and gun. I have your FS100 DVDs and just set up your suggested look on my FS100 and the picture really does "pop" rich blacks and vibrant saturated colour. However your PDW-700/800 Hypergamma 2/4 settings, although a natural and wider range are more of a flat look which doesnt "pop". Test results with HG2 look like would need a basic grade to lift midtones and add add chroma saturation.

I'm curious why not just use ITU-R709 on the 700 like you use on the FS100? There is more knee control on the 700 to handle highlights, albeit not as natural as a HG curve. Have you been happy with HG2 look without any grading? Isnt the picture a bit dark and flat?

Hi Doug,

Was keen to check out the guide - is it available to Australian residents? It finds the full title in the search field of the 'ibooks' app during a search, but then there is no book to select once the search is complete... Might be a itunes region problem, unless I'm doing something wrong?

Cheers,
Dan Soekov

Ahh.. was trying to download this on an iPhone 5 - but it looks as if you need an iPad.

Yes, you need an iPad or iPad mini. For various technical and economic reasons, Apple's iBook is the only platform that I am interested in doing eBooks for. I know that leaves some people out of the loop, but there is no other viable option.

Thanks for checking it out.

Hi Doug,

Thanks for replying, I purchased your iBook the other day and as you indicated it is straight forward for 700 operators to identify the minor differences that apply to 800 only.

Having seen some of your DVDs for other cameras, your sample footage on these DVDs does look good: Rich blacks and good colour saturation and I share your desire to create a look in camera that avoids grading since most of my work is long form, run and gun. I have your FS100 DVDs and just set up your suggested look on my FS100 and the picture really does "pop" rich blacks and vibrant saturated colour. However your PDW-700/800 Hypergamma 2/4 settings, although a natural and wider range are more of a flat look which doesnt "pop". Test results with HG2 look like would need a basic grade to lift midtones and add add chroma saturation.

I'm curious why not just use ITU-R709 on the 700 like you use on the FS100? There is more knee control on the 700 to handle highlights, albeit not as natural as a HG curve. Have you been happy with HG2 look without any grading? Isnt the picture a bit dark and flat?

Hi Mark,

When it comes to scene files, it's all just a matter of personal taste. My decision to use Hypergammas has to do with how highlights are handled and, in my opinion, any of the four are vastly superior to the standard gammas. But Hypergammas aren't the only ingredient in the recipe. You also have to pay attention to saturation, detail, black levels, white balance, and most importantly, exposure.

If you are not liking the results you are getting, I would say you are either not using all the settings and shooting techniques that I use, or you simply have a different point of view as to what looks good. Nothing wrong with that! Everyone is entitled to their own opinion and I certainly don't insist my settings are right for everyone.

Also, I don't disagree that my F800 settings don't pop quite as much as they do with a cheap camera like the FS100. The F800 is capable of a more refined, nicer, image with nice mid-tones than the cheaper cameras and I want to take advantage of that.

However, with all that said, I personally ise HG3 most of the time these days because I'm not shooting for broadcast and I want to take advantage of the extra exposure headroom it allows. But keep in mind HG3 is just one ingredient in the mix.

Are my images dark and flat? I don't think so. Here's something I shot after NAB and I have only touched up a few shots a little.

Arches National Park 2013 on Vimeo

And here are some other non-graded images from the F800 I shot this winter for stock. I'm not saying this is perfect footage because some shots will require grading before being submitted.

PDW-F800 Scene File test footage on Vimeo

Hi Doug,

Very nice camera work and footage, your use of HG sure does look good and you have the exposure nailed!

I've only done basic comparison tests in the office here switching between HG and R709. I will have to go out and shoot HG in the environment I am used to working, then view comprehensively on the timeline during the edit. Thereafter make judgement which works best for me.

I've shot with R709 and DCC for years and am used to a certain in-camera look, however I understand the reasons why you recommend not using either. I'll use recent learned knowledge on the subject to try new settings and look out for issues. I guess its all subjective and depends on our subject matter and other variables. One thing for sure as you say, correct exposure is the most important thing.

The FS100 is a 2nd camera, locked off usually and I intercut with the PDW700. Its important for me that I set-up picture profiles on each that match as close as possible. Therefore I'll tweak to suit.

Nice talking to you Doug.

All the best!

Mark, thanks for the kind words. I'm sure you'll get your camera performing exactly how you like it, sometimes it just takes some time.