Hi and welcome to the forum
:-)
my understanding of Gain is that you could look at it the same way as a still camera uses ISO or in film cameras ASA. So Gain is the sensitivity to light hitting the sensor.

The NX 30's stabilisation system would make it great for shooting from the motorcycle.


Hope you can post up some stuff at some stage!

R.

[QUOTE=Rob Cantwell;1782226]Hi and welcome to the forum
:-)
my understanding of Gain is that you could look at it the same way as a still camera uses ISO or in film cameras ASA. So Gain is the sensitivity to light hitting the sensor.

In a reverse way though. As the higher the ISO is in a photo camera the more noise it will create. In dim light I have read to try to stay at 3db. In sunlight probably go higher. I am actively looking for a Tutorial!!!

The NX 30's stabilisation system would make it great for shooting from the motorcycle.

I use Go Pros for the motorcycle. One facing Spirit and one behind him. You can look on You Tube under beemerchef. There are quite a few even lately have been recording Music in Terlingua. You will see him ride as you scroll down.

Anyhow, will try this camera a couple more days. B&H is who I always deal with, they are easy on exchanges even though that is really not the way I should go. [cost!!!].

Thank You... Ara and Spirit

Hi and welcome to the forum
:-)
my understanding of Gain is that you could look at it the same way as a still camera uses ISO or in film cameras ASA. So Gain is the sensitivity to light hitting the sensor.

The NX 30's stabilisation system would make it great for shooting from the motorcycle.


Hope you can post up some stuff at some stage!

R.

Here is a good article on gain. [You have a great website by the way, Retired? Busy with much fun...]

The truth about video gain and how to use it properly - Production Apprentice (http://www.productionapprentice.com/featured/the-truth-about-video-gain-and-how-to-use-it-properly/)

Stay well. Ara and Spirit

absolutely correct the higher the Gain / ISO the more noise will be introduced. I have a Sony NX5 which has Neutral Density filters - built in that you can apply by pressing a slider it has three settings, this is very good for preventing over-exposure and of course keeping the Gain low, I dont think the NX30 has these tho!

BTW great vids there on the tube, great looking dog nice bike too.
used to be a chain gang fella myself :-) had a F 650 GS. Sold it a few months ago :-(

R.

Thanx did the site myself - took ages and ages!! Yeah no real job ;-)

I'm busy enough to keep me out of trouble, I still havent looked at enough tutorials, thats another one to put on the list!!

ok cya...

I have an NX5U too which has lots of noise above about 6db of gain. The little Sony's are much better at 18db + in comparison. Just posted a quick video from my new NX30. Nothing fancy , all full auto. Original is 1920x1080 60P but on Vimeo it will have been re-encoded to 720 30P.


Vegas NX30 encode on Vimeo

Ron Evans

I fully understand of course iris, exposure, f stop.
I know you do but you have to know how the camera is dealing with this, if you set the iris to manual, this camera is still compensating, not sure if it uses the gain (or in phototerms iso) to do this but it could also be a combination of gain and shutter. It is easy to see what the camera is doing though, when you playback the clip in camera you can see all the camera data live but I never bothered to check. Setting the camera to manual exposure allows gradual exposure changes without having the camera doing it for you.

Here is a good article on gain.

He is testing with a camera that produces a lot of grain and he also recommends against using it if you have sufficient light and if you can open up the iris. In theory that's correct but a nx30 or the cx line of Sony camera's are build to use high gains, they are very good at using it and they produce very little grain, even at 24db. So with these camera's there is nothing wrong with using higher gains, in fact you very quickly need to use it as they are not so sensitive at 0db gain and when you start zooming in they ramp very quickly so gain is your friend :)
My cx730 has less visible grain at 24db then my older Canon xh-a1 at 6db...

I was even thinking jumping to the NEX-EA50UH - We are on a motorcycle with a sidecar for my Dog Spirit camping full time for the past over 6 years and "room" is valuable!

Those 2 don't rime, the ea50 is like a small bazooka in length and is much more difficult to carry around. Then you might be better of with a nx70 which is still small in size, has a bit more manual control compared to a nx30 and is more dust and rain proof.

I know you do but you have to know how the camera is dealing with this, if you set the iris to manual, this camera is still compensating, not sure if it uses the gain (or in phototerms iso) to do this but it could also be a combination of gain and shutter. It is easy to see what the camera is doing though, when you playback the clip in camera you can see all the camera data live but I never bothered to check. Setting the camera to manual exposure allows gradual exposure changes without having the camera doing it for you.

You mean setting it to "auto exposure" as in manual such exposure is not going to change? I think that is the area being gray to me. You set one thing and it changes the other. For example if it is set on any "scene selection". the "WB", "iris" and "exposure" settings are canceled. Having "Automatic Gain Control" on "off" setting was for me to be able to shoot in dim light some Musicians without grain but set the dB at 3. So far that has worked.

He is testing with a camera that produces a lot of grain and he also recommends against using it if you have sufficient light and if you can open up the iris. In theory that's correct but a nx30 or the cx line of Sony camera's are build to use high gains, they are very good at using it and they produce very little grain, even at 24db. So with these camera's there is nothing wrong with using higher gains, in fact you very quickly need to use it as they are not so sensitive at 0db gain and when you start zooming in they ramp very quickly so gain is your friend :)
My cx730 has less visible grain at 24db then my older Canon xh-a1 at 6db...

I agree with that.

Those 2 don't rime, the ea50 is like a small bazooka in length and is much more difficult to carry around. Then you might be better of with a nx70 which is still small in size, has a bit more manual control compared to a nx30 and is more dust and rain proof.

I am laughing here as yes! I cannot see me carry that "think" looking like a small canon! I had not seen the nx70, wish I had as we are indeed in the middle of much dust ans storms! I might exchange it for that model. That was the problem when I had a couple Mark 5D, the older model not dust proof and with no sensor cleaning. I had to send them back every 3 months to have the sensors cleaned. Almost 2 years now with the Mark II and never a problem. B&H is very good at exchanges, it would be a first for me as I do a lot of research before ordering an items, obviously not this time. I do want to end up, besides short videos I put on You Tube [I know Vimeo is better] with an hour and a half long Documentary on our Life on the road with all the remote locations we spend time in. Could be on a DVD or even a memory stick. Some are the size of a credit card with swinging stick on which one can also have a photo printed. Will continue testing footage today, these coming days.

I appreciate your follow up by the way. We are stopped for a bit to mainly decipher this camera. It is nice to get feed back with another owning the same camera. Coincidence also [off subject] we have the same Birthday! [not year]. I was born the 26th [officially the 28th, in Montpelier, France, long story]. I was in Jambes a while back, in the Namur Province, my Uncle and Aunt live there, nice little town on the Moselle watching the boats go by.

I am shooting BTW on PS 1080p 60.

Stay well. Ara and Spirit

In some respects the little Sony's are always in automatic whatever the settings. Its really like a fly by wire system because it is not ever possible to set all the parameters manual, individually. It is only possible to set one of them and never gain. So one can set iris or shutter really. The difference between exposure and AE shift is for exposure the lightness or darkness is fixed by the setting you have chosen and in AE shift the relative lightness or darkness is fixed . In both cases the camera has decided what the individual parameters will be. In AE shift iAuto can be on too so it will change the parameters depending on its choice of scene selection dynamically adjusting for backlight etc My usual choice for the unattended cameras having used spot focus to set the focus.

When you set one of the parameters the camera uses the others to set exposure. AGC Off for the NX30 is under the Gain limit setting so AGC OFF in this context means there is no limit and the camera is in complete control. Setting a limit just limits the amount of gain that the camera will use. Knowing how good these camera are in comparison to my NX5U I will not bother to set a gain limit !!!!


Ron Evans

You mean setting it to "auto exposure" as in manual such exposure is not going to change? I think that is the area being gray to me.
I mostly set the exposure to manual and assign it to the front small wheel, when I'm filming in a dark environment the shutter will be a 1/50, the iris wide open and the gain or iso will go higher to compensate, if I would go outside and turn the small knob to adjust for exposure the gain will first go down, the iris will close and the shutter will increase. I don't have full manual control over gain, iris and shutter but when you assign the exposure to teh front wheel you at least have full controll over your exposure, if I get a strong backlight I can adjust accordingly and don't have to worry about the camera doing any funny stuff, I always have the zebras on so I will adjust the exposure based on those zebras and based on what I want to have exposed right, that's what the "exposure" function is for.

Outside your shutter will go up very high if you don't use a nd filter but I don't mind as for my kind of work that isn't such an issue, I also can't see what the camera is doing because all camera data is only visible in playback, rather funny way of Sony to cripple the camera. If you use a nd filter it's important to see how that affects other parameters so you can adjust, now you just have to guess. In that case it could be that you are applying gain outside when it's not unnecessary if you use a too strong variable nd but you don't know during filming.

I live close to the Dutch border so Namur (or as we call it in Flemisch: "Namen") is a 1,5 hour drive from my place. I bet the weather is a bit nicer where you live then here right now :)

I think the NX70 shows the parameters which would be nice to see. Like Noa I have zebras set all the time too. When my wife uses one of the little Sony's as a closeup camera she has it in exposure mode just like Noa and adjusts based on the zebras. When I use the variable ND on the CX700 I set it so that the image just starts to go dark ( the point were shutter is at 1/60, iris is open and gain is max ) then I back off from this a little. Having looked at the data code I know that the Sony will bring down the gain a little then close down the iris a little too to get close to the lens sweet spot. I find this approach OK for skiing and better than having the shutter speed too high. With the NX70 or EA50 or the other NXCAM's one could actually see the ND effect in the on screen parameters. I would have liked this on the NX30 and I am sure it would have been possible. Typical Sony !!!!


Ron Evans

It is so odd [yet normal] to be so well versed in Photography and so ignoramus in videos! Never had a second thought when using my Go Pros or for indoor the little S-95 [Canon] which truly did such a good job!
Well, I called B&H to see if I could exchange it for the 70 which would be weatherproof and have the ring instead of the little wheel, but I blew it as I have already send the CPU bar code off the box to get a free Vegas Pros 12, even though I use PE11. Oh! well... The camera is in a protected case and I am not out with cameras in sand storms or storms period. [anymore! use to].

Yes, the weather is Southern Texas is actually a bit too hot right now, almost hit 100 yesterday as I looked for Cottonwood trees to shelter a few hours. Headed north to Alaska soon. Many sights in between where we can get to with our 2 wheel drive / reverse Ural sidecar!

Will continue reading your posts for sure, all that info is slowly sinking! Slowly but surely. My big thing is I don't like noise in the images [of course, who does?]. Another odd thought I also forget [which might seem strange to yous], is the fact that videos are edited! The bad parts are cut off... That is a big jump from Photography, were the image IS the image...].

Stay well... Ara and Spirit

As another long time Sony Handycam shooter, let me consolidate what already has been suggested...

Use "AEShift" set between -2 and -4 (now expressed as "EV", same difference) Sonys tend to overexpose a bit, this "fixes" that without having to fiddle with any other "manual" tweaks.

Turn on the "low lux" function, it will only kick in when you're dealing with very low light, but will get you a usable image in pretty bad lighting conditions, again without having to manually tweak things.

I too set the button/knob to exposure, gives you a "quick" override if you see the camera having trouble with a specific shot.

Spot focus/exposure is another way to "adjust" without having to manually tweak - it tells the "brains" what specific part of the frame you want the camera to adjust to.

There's a new "feature" called "My Button" buried in the camera menu, that lets you assign three functions to the left side of the touchscreen - not sure yet which 3 to pick, but thought I'd throw it out there since it's a rather obscure 'feature" you might never notice, and new on this generation of Sony cams!

I have MY buttons set to Spot focus, Steadyshot, and guide frame ( for tripod setup ) . Dial button set to exposure or AE shift depending on use.

Ron Evans

Actually just fumbling with it now. I don't know why I am having such hard time understanding all the overrides. I am leaving my gain at 3db for less noise and doing manual exposure. The camera is actually going back tomorrow to be traded with the 70 model. I was not aware it even existed. Bad research. I need weatherproof since camping 24/7 and I cannot stand that little dial by the lens. Will be without for a couple weeks.
Anyone knows how to determine how much time wise one has used such camera? Is it that clock upper right running the time? Has to be 2 hours or less.
Thanks. Ara and Spirit

Wondering if this forum has Tapatalk?

As another long time Sony Handycam shooter, let me consolidate what already has been suggested...

Use "AEShift" set between -2 and -4 (now expressed as "EV", same difference) Sonys tend to overexpose a bit, this "fixes" that without having to fiddle with any other "manual" tweaks.

Turn on the "low lux" function, it will only kick in when you're dealing with very low light, but will get you a usable image in pretty bad lighting conditions, again without having to manually tweak things.

I too set the button/knob to exposure, gives you a "quick" override if you see the camera having trouble with a specific shot.

Spot focus/exposure is another way to "adjust" without having to manually tweak - it tells the "brains" what specific part of the frame you want the camera to adjust to.

There's a new "feature" called "My Button" buried in the camera menu, that lets you assign three functions to the left side of the touchscreen - not sure yet which 3 to pick, but thought I'd throw it out there since it's a rather obscure 'feature" you might never notice, and new on this generation of Sony cams!

Thanks for all the info Dave.
After all this, the camera has been mailed back this morning and awaiting for the NX70.
A bit more manual controls and the big thing for me is the "weatherproof" [realizing that the mic however is not]. When I had a Canon 5D it went back every 3 months to be cleaned [sensor]. I just don't want to be put in that situation. The little dial also by the lens really bugged me! I know it is the same camera, will never give me the clear image of a Mark II or III, but this as far as I can go now.
I might have to look for an NX70 thread now!
Stay well. Ara and Spirit

The NX70 is a variant of the CX700 a 1 year older technology than the NX30. It does however have a few advantages in weather proofing and more indication on the LCD of exposure parameters. You have full manual control on the NX70 including gain ( not on any of the other little Sony's). But you can still operate just like the other Sony's in the semi auto modes that we have mentioned. I considered it when I bought my NX30 but really wanted the balanced Steadyshot for handheld stuff and I am happy with the semi auto uses that I have been used to with my other little Sony's ( SR11, XR500, CX700).

Enjoy

Ron Evans

The NX70 is a variant of the CX700 a 1 year older technology than the NX30. It does however have a few advantages in weather proofing and more indication on the LCD of exposure parameters. You have full manual control on the NX70 including gain ( not on any of the other little Sony's). But you can still operate just like the other Sony's in the semi auto modes that we have mentioned. I considered it when I bought my NX30 but really wanted the balanced Steadyshot for handheld stuff and I am happy with the semi auto uses that I have been used to with my other little Sony's ( SR11, XR500, CX700).

Enjoy

Ron Evans

Will see how the "Optical Steady shot" is. I am always using a tripod either way. My hands are just not that steady! Too much riding off road, [including neuralgia in my neck!]. Will let you updated after Friday.
Stay well... I am still reading all the posts and more posts! Ara and Spirit

The Steadyshot on my CX700 is very good so you will not be disappointed it just doesn't have the range of the newer balanced optic system. I used the CX700 handheld to ski down next to my grandsons for the last two years and it is great.

Ron Evans

The Steadyshot on my CX700 is very good so you will not be disappointed it just doesn't have the range of the newer balanced optic system. I used the CX700 handheld to ski down next to my grandsons for the last two years and it is great.

Ron Evans

I think it is going to work well. It is a one year long project that I gave myself. Will see now how to mix it with the Mark III and a couple Go Pros! Good thing we have portable solar we are on 24/7. [Goal Zero, good stuff].
Stay well, Ara and Spirit

The steadyshot in the NX70 is very good. I did a lot of handheld work with mine and it was great, and I don't have the steadiest hand in the world.

It's a great camera with a good wide angle lens at 26mm. Image quality at telephoto left something to be desired, I suppose it's to be expected with a small lens and a small sensor. Lack of NDs can be problematic in bright light. Despite some claims, there is NO built-in ND, automatic or otherwise.

It is also surprisingly good in low light. I posted sample clips in the NX70 forum here when the camera was new in 2011.

I did find the audio performance in the rain bad. It's logical when you think about it, but with water pouring through your microphone, you don't hear much!

I have a variable ND filter I use with my CX700 works very well and may be something useful if you spend a lot of time in bright conditions. I use all the time when skiing in bright sunlight.

Ron Evans

I have a variable ND filter I use with my CX700 works very well and may be something useful if you spend a lot of time in bright conditions. I use all the time when skiing in bright sunlight.

Ron Evans

The steadyshot in the NX70 is very good. I did a lot of handheld work with mine and it was great, and I don't have the steadiest hand in the world.

It's a great camera with a good wide angle lens at 26mm. Image quality at telephoto left something to be desired, I suppose it's to be expected with a small lens and a small sensor. Lack of NDs can be problematic in bright light. Despite some claims, there is NO built-in ND, automatic or otherwise.

It is also surprisingly good in low light. I posted sample clips in the NX70 forum here when the camera was new in 2011.

I did find the audio performance in the rain bad. It's logical when you think about it, but with water pouring through your microphone, you don't hear much!

Well, have been testing the NX-70 now for a day, even took some videos of a Friend Violinist who needed them for a resume and I am very impressed. I guess coming from Photography in Manual mode I feel at home now! Love the ring versus that little dial which made me bump the lens on the NX-30 99% of the time, but more than anything else IT IS a much sharper image. This lens is far superior than the Zeiss lens they claim having on the NX-30. Low light is great. I like the ability to have slow zoom which a software upgrade sometime back. All and all I feel relieved I switched. And yes, the stabilization is fine. No problem there. The colors [again compared to Mark III 5D] I find a bit muted but that can be bumped up in PE11. Awaiting for Vegas Pro 12 now... another learning curve! [if it is better than PE].
Well, back to some tutorials now! Still learning much but with the manual settings all cooperating all is starting to make much sense.
Stay well... Ara and Spirit

I was seriously looking at buying a NX30 until I discovered that the camera doesn't offer any real manual controls. To me, it seems almost scandalous that Sony would sell what is essentially a trumped-up consumer-grade camcorder and then try to justify a professional price by slapping on an XLR block. Sony should call themselves $ony instead.

A real professional camera should offer not only professional image quality, but controls as well. In fairness, I realize that the small form factor of the NX30 militates against putting in a full suite of easily accessible manual controls. But Canon's XA10 isn't a whole lot bigger, and you get quite a few manual controls, even if some of them are accessed via the LCD touch screen.

While Sony offers nice image stabilization features, the image quality is lacking compared to Canon's line (XA10 or HF-G10/20).

In comparing the Sony line and the Canon line, I spent hours reading reviews online, watching videos and spending some time at a local video shop.

Eventually, I came out with the realization that Sony like to lock out a lot of manual controls and customization options, not so with Canon. For the same money, you get more camera with Canon.

In addition, the Canons' gamma curve seems to be tuned for cinematic look, and they handle low light much better than the Sonys.

I know the small canons are also very good at low light but I have not yet seen a comparison at 21db and 24db between both camera's where it shows the canon is "that" much better, once I can see that I believe there is a difference but then I also need to see how noisy the canon is compared to the sony.

I think one has to think about why one would want full manual control in a small camera. Because of the sensor size depth of field is nearly allways very deep. It is why I use mine as unattended cameras. Then one has to test the automatic functions as to how they can be used in lots of conditions. In this regard Sony is good. I nearly always use AEshift do give the camera the ability to manage most of the functions. If one is carrying around the small camera, handheld then its ability to stabilize the image and manage exposure changes fast is important. In this regard the new Sony's including the NX30 are very good. The value for me in owning the NX30 are LPCM audio to match my NX5U, full timecode again to match my NX5U. It will be used mainly in AE shift mode with spot focus or full auto hand held in iAuto mode.

Ron Evans

I think one has to think about why one would want full manual control in a small camera. Because of the sensor size depth of field is nearly allways very deep. It is why I use mine as unattended cameras. Then one has to test the automatic functions as to how they can be used in lots of conditions. In this regard Sony is good. I nearly always use AEshift do give the camera the ability to manage most of the functions. If one is carrying around the small camera, handheld then its ability to stabilize the image and manage exposure changes fast is important. In this regard the new Sony's including the NX30 are very good. The value for me in owning the NX30 are LPCM audio to match my NX5U, full timecode again to match my NX30. It will be used mainly in AE shift mode with spot focus or full auto hand held in iAuto mode.

Ron Evans

That is exactly what I was wondering as I am using mine [just much practice!!!] with AEshift OFF.
Trying to manually focus which is only working well for me in the viewfinder which on the 70 is fine, have to use my reading glasses as my changing to darker regular glasses throws me off. No Gain at all. Manually adjusting the iris and the shutter speed.
Maybe I should let the shutter speed be on auto as you have a point.

Ara and Spirit

I run with AE shift as the set control for the wheel on all my small Sony's. I never manual focus. Use spot focus if I want to set focus at the zoom that I am using. The camera is then able to optimize what I have told it to be the focus I want and how dark or light I want the image. If there are people in the frame then assuming there is enough light face detection also works very well. If you want a film look camera then any of these small 1/3" cameras are not the best choice anyway. These are best for getting a well exposed shot with everything in focus. The best way I have found of doing this is to let the camera do most of the work. Frame the shot and tell it what to focus on and then how dark or light you want the image.

Ron Evans

While Sony offers nice image stabilization features, the image quality is lacking compared to Canon's line (XA10 or HF-G10/20).

In comparing the Sony line and the Canon line, I spent hours reading reviews online, watching videos and spending some time at a local video shop.

Eventually, I came out with the realization that Sony like to lock out a lot of manual controls and customization options, not so with Canon. For the same money, you get more camera with Canon.

All the better, in Sony's mind, to avoid cannibalizing sales of their true pro-grade cameras while forcing people to pay more if they want anything beyond totally automatic or even semi-automatic functions.


In addition, the Canons' gamma curve seems to be tuned for cinematic look, and they handle low light much better than the Sonys.

I had a Canon XA10 (that I rather stupidly sold), and can confirm that the gamma curve does indeed appear to be 'tuned' as you suggest. I have some old XA10 clips that I've thrown into a timeline of clips
that were shot with my Canon T2i digital SLR, and they intercut very well.

I run with AE shift as the set control for the wheel on all my small Sony's. I never manual focus. Use spot focus if I want to set focus at the zoom that I am using. The camera is then able to optimize what I have told it to be the focus I want and how dark or light I want the image. If there are people in the frame then assuming there is enough light face detection also works very well. If you want a film look camera then any of these small 1/3" cameras are not the best choice anyway. These are best for getting a well exposed shot with everything in focus. The best way I have found of doing this is to let the camera do most of the work. Frame the shot and tell it what to focus on and then how dark or light you want the image.

Ron Evans

Hi Ron...
You hit it on the nail when you write that if I want a Movie this is not the right camera. Of course. Sometimes the obvious has to be told. I look at the cameras for Movies and our Sponsor will definitely not send me one! Lucky he send the NX-70 with a great fluid tripod and a .75 conversion lens also.
So yes, after recording last night again a bit of music I realize the camera is smarter than me! It actually is teaching me when on auto the setting it uses and if needed than on manual I can adjust a bit further. I like the auto-spot focus! It is right on. I still try to leave the gain at +6 max [I really don't like grain] and learning to play with the shutter during the day or low light or movements.
Thank You always for your feedback...
This link is a great article

The Ins and Outs of High-speed Shutters | Videomaker.com (http://www.videomaker.com/article/3646)

Stay well, Ara and Spirit

Yes I have learned a lot doing the same thing. Let the camera run auto but with spot focus then look at the data code on playback. That is how I found out that the camera does not fully open the iris as its main approach but goes so far then increase gain and also changes shutter speed. The reasoning I came to was the designers know exactly where the sweet spot is in any conditions and will drive the camera to this point if given the opportunity. I use my small Sony's in the theatre as fixed camerasand have not found gain to be an issue.

Let use know how you are progressing as it is always helpful to get peoples experiences.

Ron Evans

Yes I have learned a lot doing the same thing. Let the camera run auto but with spot focus then look at the data code on playback. That is how I found out that the camera does not fully open the iris as its main approach but goes so far then increase gain and also changes shutter speed. The reasoning I came to was the designers know exactly where the sweet spot is in any conditions and will drive the camera to this point if given the opportunity. I use my small Sony's in the theatre as fixed camerasand have not found gain to be an issue.

Let use know how you are progressing as it is always helpful to get peoples experiences.

Ron Evans

I will, sharing is a must. I still like to keep the gain very low and actually through camera I pretty much know what it is doing at all time from the digital screen.
I think it is all coming together and so much have appreciated your comments.
I just realized that two very good Friends of mine from London, [brothers], have won the Yound Director Award at Cannes, Soho Festival, LA [CA), you name it and want to help me! That might be too much help as they use the top of the line"MOVIE" camera. It has been a big step for me understanding
the simple fact that this is a VIDEO camera!

Stay well. Ara and Spirit

Cameras, like any other tool, are supposed to fulfill a need. Some will find that the NX30 is great because all the features they might need in a run-and-gun camera are there, be it the optical stabilization or the automatic controls.

My needs in a camera include compact size and full manual controls. And I need those features because I use my cameras mainly for travel videography. I like pulling focus between the distant cliffs and the fortress wall that is nearer, for example. I do not record weddings, I'm not a freelance reporter or journalist, I'm not a documentary filmmaker, and I do not shoot commercials or music videos.

So for my needs, the Sony -- unlike the Canon -- leaves a lot to be desired.

Cameras, like any other tool, are supposed to fulfill a need. Some will find that the NX30 is great because all the features they might need in a run-and-gun camera are there, be it the optical stabilization or the automatic controls.

My needs in a camera include compact size and full manual controls. And I need those features because I use my cameras mainly for travel videography. I like pulling focus between the distant cliffs and the fortress wall that is nearer, for example. I do not record weddings, I'm not a freelance reporter or journalist, I'm not a documentary filmmaker, and I do not shoot commercials or music videos.

So for my needs, the Sony -- unlike the Canon -- leaves a lot to be desired.

I am about on the same "needs" path as you are and I did find the NX30 not suitable. So switching to the 70 has been excellent. Check it out. I don't find anything wrong with it really.
Stay well. Ara and Spirit

... I like pulling focus between the distant cliffs and the fortress wall that is nearer.....

That is what I use spot focus for and it's only downside is that it is a single speed.


Ron Evans

That is what I use spot focus for and it's only downside is that it is a single speed.


Ron Evans

Ah! so you are focusing on "something" then spot focus on the screen another object. Interesting concept.
Ara and Spirit

I use spot focus for both actions. Camera is in manual focus, spot focus the first object , start camera and then touch the other object in the LCD. The camera will then rack/ refocus to the new point. It is difficult to manually focus handheld with a small camera either looking through the viewfinder or on the LCD. On a tripod spot focus is great to get the transition and get as close as one can get to the shallow depth of field of a large sensor camera since one has to use a telephoto type of shot to get the focus shift on a 1/3" sensor. One object needs to be close the other far away and use a long zoom too. At full wide angle most of the small cameras will show almost everything in focus from a few metres to infinity!!!

iAuto will alter focus and exposure to make sure of that !!!!

Ron Evans

Ok, so everyone raves about the NX30 having really good optical gyro lens stabilization. Does the NX70 use the same optical gyro stabilization where the sensor and lens all track together, or is the NX70 system different and inferior?

Dave,

The NX70 doesn't have the BOSS system (Balanced Optical SteadyShot), it's a more traditional steadyshot. There is also an Active Steadyshot that I presume uses software to stabilise the image further.

It's actually very good, I was constantly amazed at how good mine was, although always at wide angle, admittedly. But clearly the BOSS system on the NX30 will be better still.

NX70 is closer to "last years" (two now) CX700 - the BOSS system in many "new" Sonys is pretty unique - you can actually watch the lens roll around in the gimbal mount to try to track the framing - it's got a LOT more range of motion than any other stabilization system - almost like a "steadycam" built into the camera