Hey, I've been using the GH2 since it was released. The lenses I have are the Lumix 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6, Voigtlander 25mm f/0.95, Canon FDn 50mm f/1.4, and Canon FDn 100mm f/2.8.

My big problem is with lenses. I was thinking of selling all of my lenses and getting the Olympus 12mm f/2, Lumix 25mm f/1.4, and Lumix 45mm f/2.8. Here are my issues. I use a shoulder rig to shoot a good chunk of my work, and the FDn lenses don't have IS, which makes the 100mm pretty much useless and the 50mm difficult to work with. I was looking at the Lumix and Olympus 45mm lenses, and it appears the Olympus doesn't have IS, so that leaves me with just the Lumix. The problem with the Lumix is it's not as fast at 2.8. Next, I use a follow focus on my shoulder rig, and both the Lumix 25mm and 45mm use the focus by wire system, which I've read is not very well suited for follow focus devices. Lastly, the Olympus 12 is pretty expensive, but the cheaper Lumix 14mm f/2.5 is a bit slower, and being a pancake, useless with my follow focus. I'd like a decent zoom for run and gun, but they're all either crazy expensive or crazy slow. Lastly, the reason why I'm looking at Lumix and Olympus lenses is because I'd like the autofocus option, especially when I need to quickly grab focus of something rather than spinning the focus wheel and losing the shot.

I like the GH2, and it still seems to be the best DSLR in terms of resolution and weight and whatnot, but the unavailability of lenses is severely detrimental. I'd also like my camera to double as a good still camera. I'm primarily a video guy, but get gigs offered to shoot photos, and I've never been very impressed with the photo quality of the GH2. I'm thinking the 5D mkiii might be a better solution in that I can get a great video and still camera in one, and have a much better selection of lenses (they have some great zooms at f/2.8, which, one a full frame camera is an equivalent dof of f/1.4 on the Panny).

The downsides to the mkiii are the increased weight, the increased cost, resolution not as good as the Panny, and no swivel screen. I figured if I keep the GH2 as a video camera that maybe I'd pick up a used 5D mkii for photos, but I don't think I have the money for two different systems and two sets of lenses. Comments, suggestions?

Look at the 45mm F/1.8 while you're considering lenses, very nice lens.

The 12mm 25mm and 45mm pretty much cover a lot, they are all I use, but I do have a F/2.8 zoom also for use as needed, but it rarely goes on the camera.

What about the Panny 20mm 1.7? I myself am looking at that one, as B&H has them in stock at the moment...

SB

If you need IS and want faster lenses I think you should go for a Canon. The fast Panasonic IS zooms are supposed to be out eventually. 43 rumors mentioned that they won't be out before the beginning of summer....that is a rumor site so just know that may or may not be correct.

For wedding work and IS, the Canons are the way to go, for sure. None of the Panasonic lenses I have has it, and this really affects photo taking for me. While I'm not going Canon anytime soon, a 60D or something comparable is definitely on my radar. I had the 30D and my photos were fantastic when used with a nice lens, the IS really makes a differences when you're in a hurry.

20mm is a good choice too Steven. Not my favorite lens, but not a bad one. I don't care for the color rendition in low light, nor it's auto focus, which tends to hunt a lot at times. Decent lens, decent price, but for a couple hundred more the 25mm F/1.4 is a great lens and destroys the 20mm, IMO. As an added bonus it has a lens hood and looks and feels like a real lens, albeit is a bit light and plastiky. 20mm will get the job done though, for sure.

Look at the 45mm F/1.8 while you're considering lenses, very nice lens.

The 12mm 25mm and 45mm pretty much cover a lot, they are all I use, but I do have a F/2.8 zoom also for use as needed, but it rarely goes on the camera.

Jeff, as I mentioned the 45mm is useless because it doesn't have IS. I don't need IS for photo taking. I don't know why you said that. You just need to up the shutter a bit and you're fine, unless it's a telephoto lens you're trying to keep steady to frame a shot.

What about the Panny 20mm 1.7? I myself am looking at that one, as B&H has them in stock at the moment...

SB

As I said, the pancake lenses won't allow me to use my follow focus because the focus ring is too close to the camera, AND the focus by wire isn't consistent.

Jeff, for weddings don't you think zoom lenses are the way to go? Changing primes constantly must be a pain.

The 45mm F/1.8 is amazing and shoots fantastic video, if you cannot use it, sorry. I mentioned photos because I shoot photos as well as video with all my lenses for use in my wedding videos, if you don't that's fine, I couldn't know that. Despite what I said, photos are fine as long as I'm on a tripod, or using the 12mm or 25mm which turn out fine handheld, as long as I'm very steady.

For zoom I use video cameras and I have a 18-50mm F/2.8 that has full electronic control with the camera if I want it. Shot dozens of weddings last year using primes, I run 3-4 cameras, so I rarely change lenses, I just change cameras, not lenses. I will on occasion change lenses, it's so easy I never thought of it as a hassle. While not recommended, I change lenses sometimes while the camera's running to avoid breaking continuity. Works fine, I just don't do it with bright light pointed toward the camera.

The trick is to know your subject and plan accordingly. I run 4 cameras by myself, so I can attest it is not a big deal. Just a lot of running around, but that can't be avoided doing multicamera solo.

Jeff, do you use the 45mm handheld when shooting video? That's my big concern is that it's not stable enough handheld. The big tradeoff is if I go with the Lumix 45, which has IS, I lose the lower f stop. I used to think I didn't need autofocus, but I feel it'd really help grabbing quick focus. I wouldn't use constant autofocus, because that's when you get that "hunting" annoyance, but it'd also help when taking photos. People think as soon as you point a camera towards them you're ready to take a picture, but I have to keep telling them to hold on as I adjust settings and grab focus. The autofocus would help with that.

Patrick,

If you're not in a big rush to make a change, sometime in April the new Olympus OMD E-M5 will be released. Do a Google search on it, look at the released sample images (high ISO looks fantastic - early testers are talking CLEAN up to 6400). The one video I've seen was done handheld so I'm waiting to see more.

This camera will use all the MFT lenses and will have in body IS the likes of which we haven't seen yet. This won't solve your follow focus problem but I've had good luck turning the ring. I shoot with both the Lumix 14mm f2.5 "pancake" and the 20mm f1.7 (using an Olympus Pen to test out the MFT concept) and I love what they do in situations without supplemental lighting.

It's worth a look and won't require the kind of major changes going to Canon 5D Mk(whatever) will.

I'm in the process of going from Canon to MFT, just sold off a 7D body and a T3i (I had too many Canons). I'm about to list my 2 "L" series lenses and when the OMD is released I'll be watching "early adopters" reviews.

The Olympus looks nice, but as I recall the video modes are very limited and I ruled it out immediately, but I can't remember why. Maybe what I saw wasn't accurate, don't know, but it didn't seem suitable for me.

Patrick, no the 45mm is no good handheld, sorry. I shoot almost always from a tripod, but such is the nature of wedding work with multiple cameras, always at least two stationary cameras. I love the lens for first dances, as in the dark it is amazing, with instant auto focus, lens does not hunt.

Edit: found this: "Pens can now record up 29 minutes worth of full-HD (1080 30p or 60i)", so it would appear the camera might have a 29 minute limit, and is restricted to 30p or 60i. While I'm not a huge fan of 24p for a variety of reasons, I still would like the option, as all my other cameras have it. Bruce, it does appear to be a very nice camera based on previews, and it is a very cool, retro look as well. If I had $1K to toss around I'd like to have one just for the cool factor. I think the 60D or something like it will be my next DSLR purchase, as I do love Canon DSLR. I played with a 60D a couple of weeks ago and I really like it, the IS works for video, which is huge, I think.

Not to throw a monkey in the sausage here or anything, but if you're having trouble shooting steady from a shoulder rig, then maybe the problem isn't so much your lenses as it is your shoulder rig?

Far as I know, no ENG or cine camera, not PDWs, Arris, Varicams, Aatons, REDs, none of them, have image stabilization. They're all often shot with shoulder-mounted. One might deduce, then, that IS isn't necessary on a proper shoulder mounted camera. Rethink your rig's design, consider its balance (center of balance should be right above your shoulder), consider where your hands control it most naturally, adjust accordingly, reduce your caffeine intake, and practice yourself into greater steadiosity.


As to alternate OIS lenses, I'm developing a wonderfully loving relationship with a Leica D 14-50 2.8-3.5 these days. Every documentation I've read says the OIS won't work, but somehow, it does. That's not to say it doesn't have other "issues," but it's the best compromise lens I've been able to afford thus far.

Your dilemma about auto vs. follow-focus is just that... generally (except for the Oly 12, I think), if it autofocuses on m43, it's focus-by-wire, and if it mechanically focuses, it won't auto-focus (or do much of anything else automatically). Kind of have to pick your poison or pay for both.

Switching to Canon or Nikon full-frame is also a dilemma, IMO... on the plus side, the DOF is much shallower, and on the negative side, the DOF is much shallower. Plus there's the economics of it: at the 5D3 and D800 price point, you can get a used AF100 which is a heck of a lot better at video than either, and a small in-body-IS Oly like the EPL1 or such which is pretty darned good for stills... but of course neither has that full-frame mojo.

Good points, Kevin. My rig is definitely not center balanced over the shoulder. I'm not sure how that's even possible when you throw a monitor, Zoom, mics, lights, etc. onto the end of the thing. I'm not saying I'm not steady, but I'm a lot steadier with the 25mm than the 50mm, so IS would be handy. As far as the pros, they have much better (read: expensive) stabilizing rigs than my Jag35.

The Olympus looks nice, but as I recall the video modes are very limited and I ruled it out immediately, but I can't remember why. Maybe what I saw wasn't accurate, don't know, but it didn't seem suitable for me.

It looks like the reviewers are so entranced and enchanted with the other features none of them are really "reviewing" video, and that's a shame. I've been searching and searching and can find no definitive comments on frame rates available. The Pen e-pl1 I've been testing for almost a month has only 720 line video, I don't know if it's 720p or not, I assume so. I find no mention of PAL versions either (while I don't need it, Canon's allowing both in one model is reassuring).


Edit: found this: "Pens can now record up 29 minutes worth of full-HD (1080 30p or 60i)", so it would appear the camera might have a 29 minute limit, and is restricted to 30p or 60i.

I think it's the same ball game the Canon's have, maybe about 12 minutes per 4GB file. I'm retired, not in business and don't do events so this isn't important to me like it would be for others.


While I'm not a huge fan of 24p for a variety of reasons, I still would like the option, as all my other cameras have it.

I can see that, but I, on the other hand, don't chase the 24p "will-o-the wisp". I view it as an archaic holdover from the days when 24fps was the best compromise between economy of film consumption and the slowest rate persistence of vision could be counted on to work for most people.

Just me, I suppose.


Bruce, it does appear to be a very nice camera based on previews, and it is a very cool, retro look as well. If I had $1K to toss around I'd like to have one just for the cool factor. I think the 60D or something like it will be my next DSLR purchase, as I do love Canon DSLR. I played with a 60D a couple of weeks ago and I really like it, the IS works for video, which is huge, I think.

While I've gone ahead and pre-ordered the Olympus, I'm keeping my 60D.

Bruce, good points all, except I feel differently about 24p. I don't like it because it's difficult to use during event shooting and because I haven't mastered it, but as used by top pros it is stunning.

When used by someone with the proper skills that actually understands it and who know how to shoot properly, it offers very good results that are near impossible to duplicate otherwise.

More importantly, 24p is being used more and more, not less, and the results by high-end events people are absolutely stunning. So while it's true that is is "old", it is more than just a holdover, because it is still very a very desirable way of shooting for some.

I questioned the efficacy of 24p for years, but when I need a reminder of how awesome it can be, I visit Pacific Pictures website. Since they shoot primarily in 24p, it is a reminder to me that my issues with 24p are more a reflection of my lack of skills than a reflection of the format.

I see 24p as impractical for the average event person because most don't seem to know how to shoot with it. This is why I don't recommend it or use it much myself.

PACIFIC PICTURES | The Official Site | Discover a limitless cinematic experience | 800.677.7206 (http://www.pacificpictures.net/)

Good points, Kevin. My rig is definitely not center balanced over the shoulder. I'm not sure how that's even possible when you throw a monitor, Zoom, mics, lights, etc. onto the end of the thing. I'm not saying I'm not steady, but I'm a lot steadier with the 25mm than the 50mm, so IS would be handy. As far as the pros, they have much better (read: expensive) stabilizing rigs than my Jag35.

It doesn't necessarily take expense... just hang something equally heavy off the other end with some cheap eBay rod & block bits. Either a deadweight or a handy little battery and lens pouch can fit the bill.

Kevin, I have wanted a shoulder rig for ages, but have avoided buying one for the very balance issue that you mention, I'm lazy I guess and didn't want the frustration that goes with fine tuning a new piece of gear and working it out.

I've looked at the spiderbraces and many others, the choices are overwhelming. I used to use a spiderbrace for my old PD150 ages ago, loved it, but the balance issue was a problem too, though for that camera it wasn't a huge deal.

Kevin, I run an XA10 and a the GH2s. Is there anything you recommend that might work out for both cameras? As my busy season approaches I wonder if it would be nice to get something this year.

A GH2 just isn't built for a shoulder rig although you can eventually rig something up but it's not going to be a streamlined video camera, just a clunky, weird looking conglomerate of accessories. I think this sort of fits into why 24p is hard to use at an event.

24p has had years of technique perfection by film professionals in controlled settings. The cameras these professionals use are not easy to toss around and get quick shots. There is a reason why old newsreels and pre-ENG TV news generally look terrible. Between the need for equipment that can be quickly deployed and the lack of set-up time generally tosses a fine tuned image. The GH2 can create film quality images but generally the set-ups I've seen to accomplish this are probably impossible to use at an event where filming is secondary to the event. The event is going on whether the camera is ready or not.

My experience is that 30p is satisfactory at events unless you can arrange for a lot of camera coverage to switch to when a shot starts to look strange due to 24p judder.

I shot some very quick photos this morning with the 45mm F/1.8 for my friend of our cats. They are not amazing photos, but they are nice, shot in Program mode, quickly with no effort. I got about 40 decent photos in five minutes with no fiddling with focus or other settings. Just click click click and almost all of them came out great.

Most pleasing to me about the lens is the bokeh, it's smooth for a relatively cheap lens. In low light the DOF with a more open aperture is even better, of course.

The photos are downsized significantly but they still look fine and give a general idea. I've also attached a photo of a test tube shot at a clinic.

Thanks for the shots, Jeff.

This is a live event I shot in 24p on a stationary XHA1 in the back, and a GH2 with the Canon FDn 50mm f/1.4 on my Jag35 shoulder rig: Todd Bogue - Live @ The Improv 02/08/12 - YouTube (http://youtu.be/P1ybBXRPy24?hd=1)

All the up close shots were on the rig. I feel there's too much camera shake, but maybe it's just me. I feel IS would help a lot. However, the dillemma, once again, is that I'd be trading IS of the Lumix for a slower lens, which, is detrimental to me shooting in darker environments such as this one.

Too much shake? The footage looks fine as is, some camera movement for those shots is good and give a live feel, it's desirable.

Your video is perfectly fine and looks awesome. The thing is with the Lumix 45mm F/1.8 you would get auto focus and would be less trouble, but for your work maybe you don't need it. Also at 45mm it would be 90mm instead of 100, and would be a touch easier to keep steady, but for follow focus it would be tough.

You held the camera very steady, I would personally not be concerned about it.

Thanks for the shots, Jeff.

This is a live event I shot in 24p on a stationary XHA1 in the back, and a GH2 with the Canon FDn 50mm f/1.4 on my Jag35 shoulder rig: Todd Bogue - Live @ The Improv 02/08/12 - YouTube (http://youtu.be/P1ybBXRPy24?hd=1)

All the up close shots were on the rig. I feel there's too much camera shake, but maybe it's just me. I feel IS would help a lot. However, the dillemma, once again, is that I'd be trading IS of the Lumix for a slower lens, which, is detrimental to me shooting in darker environments such as this one.

do you use any counterweights on the back of the rig? I have added one to my jag rig and its night and day... I also shoot with the FD glass you are using

Bruce, good points all, except I feel differently about 24p. I don't like it because it's difficult to use during event shooting and because I haven't mastered it, but as used by top pros it is stunning.

It's a frame rate. Of and by itself it does nothing to affect the quality of a production. The progressive character makes a difference. What top pros do is stunning because of the many techniques they use to achieve their visuals.


I questioned the efficacy of 24p for years, but when I need a reminder of how awesome it can be, I visit Pacific Pictures website. Since they shoot primarily in 24p, it is a reminder to me that my issues with 24p are more a reflection of my lack of skills than a reflection of the format.


I've seen their work several times, that wedding in India is more than stunning and while they used 5D MkIIs and 7Ds they would have achieved essentially the same kind of result whatever they used. Seeing their work is a most inspiring feeling. But their productions would have essentially the same look at 25p or 30p.

Some people can see the "flicker" at 24fps (my old 8mm film gear used a frame rate of 18fps and I darn sure could see that), and some of them often leave movie theaters with headaches (my wife and daughter would!). Equipment in modern theaters that still show film projects each frame twice to get away from this, so what we have been seeing is actually 48fps. So the frame rate of and by itself has little or nothing to do with final quality, it's all the other factors, composition, color, exposure, framing, camera movement, and content that the top pros use.

Just the same I hope the new Olympus has 24p as a choice, I hate to see choices disappear. And Canon has spoiled us with including both NTSC and PAL frame rates in the same cameras.

I shot some very quick photos this morning with the 45mm F/1.8 for my friend of our cats. They are not amazing photos, but they are nice, shot in Program mode, quickly with no effort. I got about 40 decent photos in five minutes with no fiddling with focus or other settings. Just click click click and almost all of them came out great.

I want that lens! I've been eyeing pictures of it and from it for a couple weeks now. Those are nice looking cats too, I'm not a cat lover but I had a yellow tabby move in with us and she has won me over. That lens is sharp but the background bokeh is gorgeous.


Most pleasing to me about the lens is the bokeh, it's smooth for a relatively cheap lens. In low light the DOF with a more open aperture is even better, of course.

That lens is amazing, every shot I've seen done with it has looked good. I've been testing out M4/3 with a Pen e-PL1 an amazon vendor was selling for $290, ordered the Lumix 14mm and 20mm optics, just got in the 45-200 (which dwarfs a Pen), and have a used e-P3 coming (for the 1920x1080 video).

But still photography is fun again.

Bruce, I disagree with your assessment of 24p; the reason being that the first wedding I shot with it really had a look that I never have seen in any other footage I've shot, it is really different. I have not edited the wedding yet, but I did edit a sample clip and uploaded it, and it looked awesome.

My personal, specific issue with it was that things appear very soft in the viewfinder, and it was so difficult (for me) to get focus and feel comfortable that I had focus, it was just so darned soft looking.

The good news was that when I downloaded the footage it looked so dreamy and film like, I was really impressed with it, even though I do not know proper shooting techniques for shooting in 24p.

That being said, I have been working for awhile anyway to avoid pans and to shoot in such a way that most times pans will not be in my edits if I can avoid it, and that is an important part of shooting in 24p, either avoiding pans, or to be following a subject when panning whenever possible, or panning slowly enough that you avoid any more judder than necessary.

At any rate, I do love the look, but I have a lot to learn about using it. I hate the softness when shooting, as mentioned.

Just my 2 cents!

On the 45mm, you are so right. After those shots today I am really falling in love with it. It is such a sharp lens, with great bokeh, and easy to use, just like the 25mm and 12mm. The best part for me, running multicamera, is that they all match up well and have very similar color rendition, unlike the legacy lenses which can look fantastic, but often will not match up with the others so well. Of course with the Canon line you have the fantastic 85mm F/1.4, which I've owned and used with the 30D a few years ago, which was even better since the IS helped greatly for on the fly snapshots.

The different color rendition was the vexation I experienced with the FD 50mm and FD 85mm, Sigma 30mm F/1.4 and the Sigma 18-50 F/2.8, they produce fine images, but in certain lighting conditions the images produced were so completely different it looked odd in the final edit; the Sigmas looked so overly warm at times it was hopeless.

Anyway, the three newer primes will be very useful this season, I'm looking forward to using them all.

I love 24p and shoot it almost exclusively. It gets tricky with fast moving scenes and I've messed up a few by panning too fast but overall I feel at home with 24.

I love the 5d but like the gh2 much more. The xa10 is tempting me but more than I can spend right now.

Having mostly handled larger shoulder mount pro video cameras and I found with shoulder mount cameras I was always shakier if the hand holding up the front of the camera, (and controlling the zoom rocker), was also trying to support weight. Now working with the GH2, it seems to me like a shoulder rig with a some real poundage would help. If so, make sure that you are not 'lifting' the weight with the front handles at all, if not totally balanced I would lean towards 'pulling down' the weight with the front handles, (i.e. the back of the rig is slightly heavier.

I'd agree with agree Eric, that the balance on the shoulder is the most important thing. I can't really understand why there are so many DSLR rigs around, yet very few of them until recently, had any kind of counter balance. All out front, is completely useless for any lengthy handheld shooting IMO.

Any particular reason why you want to use a shoulder-rig with the GH2? Most event shooters that I know use a monopod with a DSLR. We have actually become rather intolerant of the motion that you still get with a monopod. It stops the jitters but there is a weaving around that is hard to eradicate. We now use ultra-light carbon fibre tripods whenever possible. If there is not sufficient room to spread the tripod legs then we just scrunch them up together & use it like a monopod. Alternatively one of my buddies uses a Glidecam 2000HD almost exclusively for handheld footage.

To return the original discussion. We have just got two 5D3s for our wedding work & they are fabulous. The superb low light performance is particularly useful. We have been shooting with 5D2s for over three years & have far more invested in Canon lenses than in camera bodies so it's a very logical upgrade for us. As I have mentioned here before I tried the GH2 but eventually gave up as there were so many things that made it unsuitable the only saving grace being the very high resolution of the image.

I've purchased one of these (EZ-Steady- iPhone, DSLR, GoPro Camera Stabilizer by Kyle Hart — Kickstarter (http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/rhinocg/ez-steady-dslr-camera-stabilizer)) for my GH2. I haven't received it yet so I can't comment on how well it works. I'm only a casual shooter. I don't know if it would be robust enough for professional use.

D

Dennis, looks very promising. Please post back with your thoughts. I'm not crazy about the color, but it appears to be a very nifty device.

There are all sorts of cheap & not so cheap hand held stabilisers that all work on the same principle. Here are a selection B Hague & Co Ltd Steadicam "type" Stabilizers (http://www.cameragrip.co.uk/acatalog/Stabibilizers___Steadycams.html#a263)

Ive about given up on using my GH2s or any DSLR as "A" cams for the wedding "ceremony"....too stressful for me...maybe I will change my mind when I have more experience using a DSLR. I must admit, I love shooting with my GH2 and would prefer using DSLRs over video cams...but not for weddings.

I will use two XA10 video cams and tripod the GH2 at a "fixed" location for wide alter shot. The GH2s will be great during the reception though as there will be enough time to make adjustments.

Jeff

The trick to the balance stabilizers is to avoid going to the upper weight limit listed by the manufacturer unless you find experimenting and shipping things back acceptable. Over the years I have tried and shipped back two of these balance stabilizers as the equipment I was using was near the upper end of the weight limit and the stabilizer didn't behave in a usable way. Also you have to remember that these are harder to hold after a while then the publicity photos of cute women posing with them imply. The stabilizer adds a significant percentage of weight to your cameras. For short take style shooting they are great, long events, I am not sure. I switched to shoulder mounts and am happy that way.