I'm going to be rewiring some monitoring headphones, the Sony MDR V6 (7506) style with the 10 foot cables. I normally plug my headphones into something body-worn so I prefer cables much shorter.

Has anyone found good headphone cables for sale seperately? I'm wanting something about 6 feet long (when coils are stretched), with a right angle connector (both 1/8 and 1/4 versions would be useful).

I could buy instrument cables and cut off an end, but I'd prefer a read headphone cable with tinned leads so I don't have to strip the shellac insulation to solder them on.

Instrument cables are all TS (tip/sleeve) not TRS (tip/ring/sleeve) so aren't appropriate for stereo (or balanced...) Applications.

Why don't you just cut the plug off, cut the cable shorter and install a new plug.

BTW, the Sony MDR V6 (7506) are very, very difficult to work on, so unless you have successfully worked on them before (28 gauge thread-like wires with lacquer insulation) or have lots of other experience with that type of work.. don't go there.

Yep, I worked on the sony headphones once and this thread is a result of my frustration with trying to remove the enamel from those 28 gauge wires and still have enough copper for a good connection. Using a brand new cable with pre-tinned ends should be much easier and reliable.

I hear ya Tom, They are a real pain to work on. I usually burn off the wires' coating with an open flame.
You can get a new cable from Sony which I assume would be pre-tinned, but it would have the same connector and the price is probably not worth it. You may consider contacting Trew Audio, as they do mods to that model and ask for they're suggestions. Let us know what you come up with.
That said, I have 7506 manual/parts list & diagram, w/ inner wiring photo, if you or anyone wants it.
I'll put it here for while, if anyone would like to download it.
http://www.4shared.com/document/7hSR9GGb/Sony-7506.html

Thanks Rick. I wish I had that diagram when attempting to work on them the first time.

I know there's no easy solution to removing the enamel from the leads, but I'm curious what you use to remove the charred enamel and/or soot left over after burning it off with an open flame?

I've heard that there used to be a product called Strip-X which chemically removes such, very well. But it's no longer being made/sold. If anyone has any leads on how to get some today I'd be interested.