Hi,
I have been doing weddings for close to 25 years now and over the years I would run into the occasional "aaaawww that light is to bright" person usally someone older. Lately I have been getting a lot of those. I thought it was because I went HD and bumper my light from 35 to 50 watts but I dont think that makes much difference from the "other side" I also bought a low output LED for table shots and some dancing and even though its softer I still have been getting the old " wow that lights bright" reaction. I started trying and upping the wattage but I backed off a few feet. That seems to help. Anyone else having issues like this? if so how are you handling it?

Take notice of the ambient lighting next time you get chastised for your bright light. A 100watt bulb in the outdoors would barely register, whereas you might blind someone with a 20w LED in a dark hall. There are a few immediate and practical steps you can take to minimize the complaints, all while improving the quality of lighting. First, get a hydrostatic arm, 7" or 11" (also called an Israeli arm). By mounting your light higher above the lens, you'll get more defining shadows, and less 'deer in headlights' shine. For close-range interviews, a diffusion screen widens the apparent light source, reducing it's harshness for the viewer and softening the harsh shadows that a small point-source light gives. If your light is dimmable, consider bringing it up slowly to allow the talent to acclimate. Finally, if you can conduct interviews with a light source behind you, it lowers the apparent contrast for the interviewee, giving them less of a black-hole background behind you.

Hope this helps.

Hey Randy

That is all good advice from Oren. I occasionally get the same comments "Did you bring me a welding helmet to wear???" It's most definately a case of the ambient level ... put your light on in a really dim venue and the people will feel they are blinded but in a fairly well lit venue they hardly notice the same light!! I let my guests congratulate the couple on video with messages during pre-dinner drinks and if the level of the room looks especially low I will ask the staff to turn the lights up, just a small amount and it makes all the difference. I use my diffuse filter ALL the time!! It takes off the glare quite dramatically and works a treat!!

My light is on my coldshoe but I'm using shoulder mount cams Oren, what sort of height do you figure would be enough to keep subjects happy .... 12" above my camera on my shoulder would probably put the light over 6' which is neat....if you elevate the light do you then tilt it down a bit or keep it looking straight ahead????

Chris

I just don't see any way around it, I try to use the least possibly amount of light to get the job done, but still get those comments. Of course the light will seem brighter in a darker space, but that's when you really need the light. I've asked the venue to turn up the lights, but they always say no, citing that the bride and groom want the mood to be romantic.

It's just part of wedding videography.

Occasionally I ran into some drama queens at weddings. They made a squinting face staring at the light and said "the light is too bright". I told them, not looking at it.

And there are people always look at the camera light thinking that's the camera lens.

Sara and Farshid - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A0m3LabYXNQ)

I agree that its all relative to the ambient light, I use a 42 watt until I get my money for my comer 1800s next month. but even if I went back to 25 like used before HD it would matter. The complaints I get are not from anyone important BUT I dont want to turn people off to wedding video our market is hurtin here bad enough.I will look into the arm thanks for that.

I use a LP Micro on my old reliable almost see in the dark (notice ALMOST) with a diffusion filter and a 1/4CTO which knocks down the effective wattage and the throw from 25W to maybe 20W and the throw is good for about 8 maybe 10 feet on a stretch. I'll run at 12db gain since the PD cameras not only handle that but more without breaking up if needed. Now having said all of that, last night was a perfect example. Once the party started the lights over the dance floor went OFF, not dim but OFF. Luckily the venue has pretty nice built in DJ type lighting built into the ceiling (about 18 feet in height). the dance floor is about 70 feet by 30 feet so you need to move from one end to the other in order to get the dancing properly and since everyone knows I'm not a fly on the wall type I'm out there on the floor, and other than 1 person making a face, I had no issues with people not liking the light. It was a great crowd and the floor was filled with people the whole time I was there. I have had people over the years make faces and even comments about the light but I simply tell them to close their eyes and tell me what they see. they always answer nothing. Right and since the camera isn't as sensitive as your eyes guess what. The camera will not see anything either. I either have to light it up a bit OR the B&G will have an all black video of their reception.

I think the LED I use is about equivilent to a lp micro. Most people dont address me directly they just make it clear the light bothers them. I thought about it even if I had the money to get the best low light HD camera on the market I dont think it would help.I think even one of the those small LED flashlights would bother them. I like to use a low power softlight and get on the dance floor with them and then use a "long throw" light for the entrances and toasts and other main stuff. I may try using the longer throw light more and back off 10 feet or so and shoot more from a ladder.

You can consider mounting a better light on light stand. I use Comer 1800 on light stand placed near the the dance floor. with Comer 1800 condenser lens, it projected a spot light. Not only it makes the video looks better, it also add s focal point of where the audience should be looking at.

I no longer use any on-camera lighting for that reason - and, because I don't like the flat washed out look from a straight-on light source. I use a 250 Lowel Pro-light as my main light. I have it mounted on a 13 light stand so the angle is pretty steep which makes it less likely to get in someone's eyes. I use it with a snoot and and a diffuser which creates a nice spot like effect. I have smaller LED also on a light stand, that I use as a second source. Both lights are dimmable so I can raise and lower the output to the appropriate levels

Art

What do you do at the Church or for table shots?Anyone here using 1/30 to be able to shoot in less light?

What do you do at the Church or for table shots?Anyone here using 1/30 to be able to shoot in less light?

No question. In certain circumstances you just about about HAVE to go to 1/30 and if the action is fairly still (toast, even vows at altar), slowing it up won't even present blur.

What about receptions? Like Dancing or entrance into the hall?

Most church won't allow using camera light, or flash light for photography.

This is a clip showing the open dance floor using comer lights on camera and on light stand.
Wedding Open Dance Floor on Vimeo

I always shoot with F2.8 and 1/30 shutter when in low light. I don't notice any motion blur.

Hey Randy

Church ceremonies have slow deliberate movement so 1/30th (mine is 1/25 for PAL) is still usable but dancing has movement so you will get blur...they are usually drunk by then so you can just clamp on your biggest and nastiest LED light and they won't say anything!!! With bridal entrance the secret there is not to stand in the middle of the dance floor with your tiny light... get somewhere so you can film the bridal party walking in and past you fairly close and then follow the couple up to their seats. That way you are never more than 10' away and get decent lighting as opposed to a huge dance floor.

Chris

I have no problem dropping the shutter to 1/30 in the church its the reception that I dont like. I do like the idea of the lights on stands. Taky would you recomend a comer 1800 on a light stand and a smaller LED for on camera lights?

I use both. I still need an on-camera light that I can run around, interview people, or some quick lite up during the day. At reception, the off-camera light (on light stands) gives great result not only to the recorded footage itself, it also enhances the event.

I was shooting a 25th anniversary event last Friday. One of the guests did a Saxophone performance. I turned on my Comer light on light stand in spot light mode. It puts a shine on her. It gives a focal point of where the audience will be looking at.

Cool well I am definatley going to order at least one from you next month maybe 2 depends on some stuff though. is there anyway to run them off AC?

That's great! The light doesn't come with AC adapter. But you can bring it to Radio Shack and have them match an AC adapter for you. Otherwise, the NP-F970 batteries we have runs the light for 3.5 hours. It's so much easier than looking for AC outlet and wiring all the cord at wedding reception.

well I figured if I ran it off AC I could leave the light stand up and just plug it in when I wanted to turn it off and on.

Occasionally I ran into some drama queens at weddings. They made a squinting face staring at the light and said "the light is too bright". I told them, not looking at it.

LOL. I have the same issue in some weddings. A couple of times I have been told to turn off the light. I let them know what would happen If I did that. Once I got a "Well turn it off anyway"
Well, we all know how that part turned out on the DVD.

The issues I have been having is just seeing peoples reaction. No one actually approaches me.

o.k. I am thinking of getting one 250 watt and shoot it into the ceiling OR a 100 watt and tilt it down into the croud.Or maybe both and get a wireless controller to turn one on and one off as needed. This is in addition to a on camera light, what do you think?

Randy we have been doing this for the last 2 years.
Our latest rendition uses:

(2) Coolights LED 256 (CL-LED256 256 LED Spot - Cool Lights USA (http://www.coollights.biz/clled256-spot-p-126.html))
(2) Receptionlight remote controls (The Wireless Wedding Reception Video Light - HOME (http://receptionlight.com))
(2) Doglin V-Doubler (vDOUBLER [VD-14] - $179.00 : Dolgin Engineering, Camera Power Solutions (http://dolgin.net/zen_dolgin/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=30))
Sony NP batteries

What we do is mount the LED256 on a light stand and have the Receptionlight remote control sit between the LED256 and the V-Doubler (power source). The V-doubler and extra batteries are kept in the LED266 bag attached to the light stand.

It's compact and convenient and I can move the stand anywhere when needed at a moments notice.
It takes me only 10 minutes to setup two lights and position where needed.

All of the lighting equipment is kept in one Kata bag for easy transport, with the light stands traveling along with my mic stand(s) and tripods.

We used to use large Becor batteries in this setup as opposed to Sony NP batteries. But I got sick and tired of dragging along 40 lbs. in batteries.

BTW two Sony batteries can power the LED256 for over 6 hours at full blast. It might even run longer, as I have never had one run out of power at a reception yet.

I only use the lighting at receptions, and turn on the lights before the reception starts, so everyone gets used to them. I turn them off during dinner, and back on just before the reception stars back up. If needed and someone gives speeches during dinner, I can simply turn them back on with the remote.

The lights themselves are placed as tall as possible (on 13' light stands), and usually positioned right next to the DJs PA stack by the dance floor. Guests think it's part of the DJs or bands setup.

Randy we have been doing this for the last 2 years.
Our latest rendition uses:

(2) Coolights LED 256 (CL-LED256 (http://www.coollights.biz/clled256-spot-p-126.html))
(2) Receptionlight remote controls (The Wireless Wedding Reception Video Light (http://receptionlight.com))
(2) Doglin V-Doubler (vDOUBLER (http://dolgin.net/zen_dolgin/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=30))
Sony NP batteries

What we do is mount the LED256 on a light stand and have the Receptionlight remote control sit between the LED256 and the V-Doubler (power source). The V-doubler and extra batteries are kept in the LED266 bag attached to the light stand.

It's compact and convenient and I can move the stand anywhere when needed at a moments notice.
It takes me only 10 minutes to setup two lights and position where needed.

All of the lighting equipment is kept in one Kata bag for easy transport, with the light stands traveling along with my mic stand(s) and tripods.

We used to use large Becor batteries in this setup as opposed to Sony NP batteries. But I got sick and tired of dragging along 40 lbs. in batteries.

BTW two Sony batteries can power the LED256 for over 6 hours at full blast. It might even run longer, as I have never had one run out of power at a reception yet.

I only use the lighting at receptions, and turn on the lights before the reception starts, so everyone gets used to them. I turn them off during dinner, and back on just before the reception stars back up. If needed and someone gives speeches during dinner, I can simply turn them back on with the remote.

The lights themselves are placed as tall as possible (on 13' light stands), and usually positioned right next to the DJs PA stack by the dance floor. Guests think it's part of the DJs or bands setup.

It looks like a nice setup, I have a question The Wireless wedding remote cost $300 and doesnt include a stand or a light, what does it include?

Randy, when I built my Receptionlight setup a few years back the price of the remotes wasn't nearly as high. All I purchased from Receptionlight was the remotes, as I already had lights and lightstands that Iw as able to use for my setup. Since then my lights had changed (to LED256) and also added the V-Doubler to replace the large battery belt. But that's what I originally started with.

I recall seeing the remotes themselves somewhere on the net, but don't remember currently sorry.
Something like this will most likely work, but you will have to wire the XLR connections yourself.
12V WIRELESS REMOTE CONTROL 0V OUTPUT SWITCH RP100 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-WIRELESS-REMOTE-CONTROL-0V-OUTPUT-SWITCH-RP100-/350457702431?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5198e8281f#ht_1026wt_1165)

With the Receptionlight setup it takes him time to wire the XLR connections and he also includes some fuses as well.

cool thanks I have enough parts around to build my own if it works out i'll buy another.