I have 30 days before a 3 week documentary filming trip. I need to take stills in addition to video and since I'm already invested in Canon glass from my 20D, I've decided to sell my tm-700 b-camera and go with the "venerable" 5dm2 to compliment my main squeeze EX1R footage with sDOF cutaways, wides and b-camera safety shots. The 5dm2 gets the nod for it's FF lowlight and sDOF performance.

I've read a years worth of this thread and need some advice on assembling a minimalist starter kit (remember, the 5dm2 is NOT my main video camera). For this project, I'm a one man band with only minimal "mule" help from others.

Unless convinced otherwise, I intend to take only my 24-70 f2.8 L lens and 85 1.8 prime. Audio and long DOF and run and gun shots will all be on the EX1R.

Some questions:
1) Is a viewfinder really necessary to achieve focus with these lenses?
2) Is a focus puller really needed for basic tripod mounted focus racking (remember this is for cutaways and boutique shots)?
3) I've found it daunting to weed through the ND filter market. I have a nice B+W polarizer. Any recommendations on a starter Vari-ND?
4) Any critical accessory you'd recommend for a minimalist starter kit?

TIA

I think you'll be fine with the 24-70, I think the 85 is a great lens for the buck but perhaps not the key lens for this project. If I could only take two lenses somewhere, I would take the 24-70 and the 70-200. There is a Sigma and Tamron 70-200 if the Canon version is out of your budget.

For what you describe, I don't think you would have to have a loupe, but they're around $100 now (LCDVF knockoffs) and I personally would take one. But an autofocus before every shot (of things that don't move a lot) should be fine for your purposes.

I don't use a follow focus, and I shoot basically everything with the 5D.

I use the vari-ND available on Amazon for ~$70 and I am happy with it. A year ago when I bought it the competition was a $400 alternative that folks spoke very highly of. I personally can't see it being 6x better to justify the 6x price increase, but we all have our own standards, you should judge for yourself.

I would personally not make this trip without SOMETHING to get audio in the 5D, even if it were as basic as a Sennheiser G3 plugged straight into the mic jack. You will fall in love with the 5D images (IMHO) and want to use it more and more.

A good value LCD viewer is the Hoodman. Under $200, 3X magnifier, adjustable diopter.
I use B+W ND filters, don't use the variable ones so I can't help there. I have a .9 and a .6 and often stack them.

@ Bill, I read up on the viewers and had settled on the Digi Finder. There's a great thread including a review here:
http://www.dvinfo.net/forum/canon-eos-5d-mk-ii-hd/481189-dslr-viewfinder-review-comparison.html

This is the Digi Finder
Digi Finder Pro | Jag35.com (http://jag35.com/new/products/digi-finder-pro/)

Would you say some kind of viewer is pretty much a "must have" then?

If its for outdoor work, it would be pretty frustrating without one. The lcd screen does not hold up to well with the sun shinning on it.

I agree that the 24-70 and 70-200 combo is an excellent choice. I know many wedding photogs and photojournalists who work exclusively with these two lenses - even though they have plenty of other lenses at their disposal. I'd see you getting much more use out of that combo than the 85mm f/1.8.

Maybe you could also throw in the super cheap 50mm f/1.8 for extreme shallow DOF stuff - not the greatest lens ergonomically, but a very economical lens with excellent optics which won't take up much space or weight in your bags.

I'd say get a hood definitely - you'll be kicking yourself if you don't at least get a cheap eBay one. A follow focus is not essential and if you're working alone would actually be more of a hassle than anything. For filters, I'd skip the fader ND and just get a 0.6 (2 stop) and/or a 0.9 (3-stop) ND filter.

@ John. Thanks. I was just researching the Canon 50mm lenses. I notice many listings on eBay for the 50mm 1.4 saying the owners don't use it enough. I like the idea of a light compact lens for sDOF and portraits. I'll look at the 50mm 1.8. Thanks for the tip.

FOr others who come across this thread with the same question:

I spoke with Olof from Westside AV who uses the 5dm2 to augment EX cameras. He reminded me of the $.15 cent follow focus: A zip tie and paper tape. Also, based on his experience, I ordered the LCDVF viewer. Even tho it lacks a diopter for those of us with eyes no longer young, he says it works with glasses and is well engineered. He also confirms the recommendation of going with .6 and .9 ND instead of a variable.

My guess is that 50/1.4 owners who don't use it enough are zoom owners who don't tend to use primes. Just set the camera to auto everything and shoot. ;)

Personally, I prefer the 50/1.4 to the 50/1.8. The mechanical build is better. The falloff is less at large apertures. The 50/1.4 isn't the newest lens, so mechanically it doesn't feel as nice as a newer Canon prime. That said, it has a longer focus travel than, say, the 28/1.8 or 85/1.8.

I ordered the LCDVF viewer. Even tho it lacks a diopter for those of us with eyes no longer young, he says it works with glasses and is well engineered. He also confirms the recommendation of going with .6 and .9 ND instead of a variable.

I can confirm that a version of the LCDVF sold on ebay works as inticated above. It will be great.

In addition, I would consider following needs (I haven't read through other reponses, so pardon if it repeats):

1. Sound: Consider a Juiece link powered preamp for better sound. Jon Fairhurst above did considerable testing and posted recommendations a couple of years back that still are important and true today, though equipment available has changed a bit.

2. Consider learning about and adapting your 5D to filming needs by going to Magic Lantern override operating system. I would recommend Anthony Newman's AJ 5.6 version. It will give you more control over sound quality. In addition, more importantly, it gives the user exposure aids. False colors provides a zone exposure system allowing you to place your subject in the proper exposure zone, while working to avoid loss of detail in shadow and highlights. This version of ML also has focusing aids that are quite interesting and well though out.

3. Monitor: Still important, despite what you may carry in viewfinders, etc, a monitor like a Marshall will be invaluable at times.

4. Lenses: Sounds like you are stuck on modern automatic Canon lenses, but consider low older Nikon and Pentax lenses too, for specialty situations. These can be adapted nicely and effectively.

5. I have to disagree to some extent with others on variable ND. I would not consider for still, but they may be adequate or even preferrable for video. You should test the idea. Manual set up is a breeze, using false colors. You select shutter speed, aperature for depth of field desired, ISO for the conditions, and then, using false colors spin the variable ND to get the false colors on your screen (ML) or monitor to match exposure requirements of the shot.

6. Get a simple shoulder rig for run and gun shots that will work comfortably with your LCD veiw.

I've replaced my Juicelink with the new rode video mic pro. From my test the sound is comparable, and I no longer carry the bulky juicelink around.

Chris....thanks for bringing up Magic Lantern. I saw some threads on it indicating False Colors had been developed but not integrated. As of right now, best I can tell there's a Beta that has false colors and some other exposure and focus tools that works with FW 2.0.8. However, the non-beta version lacks those features and only works on 2.0.4. Is that basically right?

I get that the vari-nd operationally acts like an iris control but it seems for some, there are situations where they add artifacts or go soft.

I've watched the Bloom DSLR videos on Vimeo College and some others by Zacuto. I'm presently slogging thru Canon's knowledge videos...I got up and running on the EX1R real fast with the Vortex training DVD....recommendations on equivalent training material is welcome.

All: Thanks for your years of posts on the 5dm2. It's been very helpful.

The dvd include in the book below is a pretty good primer, and its concise.

From Still to Motion: A photographer's guide to creating video with your DSLR (Voices That Matter)

creative live has some overly thorough tutorials from laforett. 3 day's vs 1 day.

Shane hurlbut has free tutorials that are worth watching on b&h.

B&H HDSLR Hub: Learn With A Pro (http://www.hdslrhub.bhphoto.com/?cm_sp=HDSLR-_-HURLBUT-_-Go2Episode)

Les:

The AJ 5.6 is the best version in my opinion. The developer is A J Newman who has been doing some beautiful work on it as his own private project, but he is working in 2.04. You will merely have to reinstall 2.04. He calls it Beta, and it does have a quirk here and there, but for using false colors, and some of the other basic stuff, it is pretty solid. This is coming from someone who was one of the original testers of Magic Lantern now two years ago.

You get 2.04 for retrograde here: Cork Photographer - Moira O'Brien Photography (http://www.moiraobrien.com/magiclantern/)

Here is a video on AJ's version. Just remember things are changing regularly, so latest version may have additional features or changes.

MAGIC LANTERN AJ5.0 - Magic Lantern User Group on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/groups/magiclantern/videos/21210486)

On the email list, he has propagated 5.6 which is latest version I am using, calling it a test program. I can get it to you if interested.


Trammel Hudson updated the basic ML in November 2010 so it works operates in 2.08. But it does not have the bells and whistles, that AJ

Lee, I read that long review of all the viewfinders. Most of his points are well taken, but he's way obsolete on the Hoodman criticism. It does have a 3X magnifier and diopter and has had for a long time. I got the Hoodcrane version, which mounts the device in a "crane" type arrangement off the hotshoe, with a flipup mechanism. I like the mounting, but the flipup part sucks. It's so difficult to use I just don't use it. Instead I slip the finder out of the mount on top It goes in and out easily. Now that Zacuto as the bottom mounting plate, I like it much better. However, my next purchase is going to probably be the Cineroid EVF. I'm holding off to see what Redrock will bring to the table.

I wouldn't bother with Magic Lantern at all. The menus look fantastic but as soon as you start using it then it falls apart in a horrible coloured mess. After a bit of use becomes impossible to change items in the menus & you wind up having to reboot the camera to regain control. Neither the zebras nor the false colours are useful. I really cannot see what all the fuss is about. I have tried several times over the years to love Magic Lantern as obviously an awful lot of work has been put into it but each time I try a new version after a few minutes frustration I remove it & revert to the Canon firmware.

Lee, I read that long review of all the viewfinders. Most of his points are well taken, but he's way obsolete on the Hoodman criticism. It does have a 3X magnifier and diopter and has had for a long time. I got the Hoodcrane version, which mounts the device in a "crane" type arrangement off the hotshoe, with a flipup mechanism. I like the mounting, but the flipup part sucks. It's so difficult to use I just don't use it. Instead I slip the finder out of the mount on top It goes in and out easily. Now that Zacuto as the bottom mounting plate, I like it much better. However, my next purchase is going to probably be the Cineroid EVF. I'm holding off to see what Redrock will bring to the table.The optics on the Hoodman are horrible. There is a small central portion that is clear but all round the edges it's terribly distorted so unless your eyeball is dead centre it's next to useless. The Zacuto is good especially with the plate at the bottom so you don't need to glue anything to your camera however be aware that it doesn't magically increase the resolution of the LCD screen which is only 640x480. It just magnifies the pixels. I have a Cineroid EVF but find it unwieldy to use with the 5DII plus the peaking & zebras are not that useful & are nowhere near proper zebras & focus aids that you find on a proper camcorder. The LCDVF has good optics & while you do need to stick a plate to your camera it works well if you are younger & your eyes have good accommodation so that you can live without a dioptre adjustment. Personally I would avoid the cheap LCDVF knock-offs as there is no way of knowing how good the optics are & at around a $100 it's not that much more expensive than the rip-offs in any case.

Nigel Barker wrote:
"The optics on the Hoodman are horrible. There is a small central portion that is clear but all round the edges it's terribly distorted so unless your eyeball is dead centre it's next to useless."

That was true of the original Hoodloupe; however, the x3 magnifier solves the problem for all practical purposes. I prefer the Z-Finder, but for the money, I'd buy the Hoodloupe (and x3) again.

FWIW, the rubber bands are useless. I bought a Chinese LCD frame and modified it as a mount, but it was a kludge and didn't hold up over time. The RedRock mount is solid, professional looking, and travels well. The only problem is that it doesn't go on/off quickly.

Bill, Nigel...good points.

I have a Hoodman from my EX1r but never shoot that way. I had the same impression about the optics...meh. If it had a better way to attach I might have tried it. I ordered the LCDVF from an authorized dealer to make sure I got a real one.

I have a low tolerance for having to play with things to make them work. ML would have to be rock solid for me use it so the feedback will save me some time... will look at it later.

The Cineroid caught my interest as the new one has an SDI out. But if I got it right, the camera HDMI out is still 640x480 during recording. If the 5DM2 were my main camera then *maybe*.... but for me it's an accessory. Hopefully I can get good enough using prefocus and the LCDVF when rolling.

Back on the 50mm subject, both dpreview and Ken Rockwell say the bokeh on the Canon 1.8 and 1.4 are not so good. The Sigma 50mm 1.4 seems to have the best bokeh and the fact that it has the same filter size as the 24-70 2.8L has some advantage for the minimalist agenda.

Anyone using the Sigma 50mm 1.4 for video?

I wouldn't bother with Magic Lantern at all. The menus look fantastic but as soon as you start using it then it falls apart in a horrible coloured mess. After a bit of use becomes impossible to change items in the menus & you wind up having to reboot the camera to regain control. Neither the zebras nor the false colours are useful. I really cannot see what all the fuss is about. I have tried several times over the years to love Magic Lantern as obviously an awful lot of work has been put into it but each time I try a new version after a few minutes frustration I remove it & revert to the Canon firmware.

I guess this goes under the heading of "Some can, and some can"t". Magic Lantern is a tool to help improve your professional output, and that is why I recommended you learn it. Nigel prefers not to learn it and so he will lose the capabilities you will have if you learn it. It may make a difference for you, but it certainly won't for him.

My point of recommending learning Magic Lantern is that it comes in handy in certain situations like you are describing here. I prefer not to use it either. But there are times when you want the choice. I have chips that I have it loaded on, and chips that I don't. When I need exposure help while shooting only with the LCD, I shoot with it, because I can't really tell just for LCD whether I am hitting it right. I don't think anybody can. I don't need ML when I am using a monitor with false colors like my Marshall. I do need Magic Lantern if I am feeding sound directly to camera. It has been clearly proven that the adjustment provided to audio on latest 5D firmware do not do enough to clean up sound issues. And you are not able to monitor sound on onscreen meters or out of camera without having Magic Lantern. If I shoot double system, then I don't need it. So I look at it as a necessary evil in certain situations. And, like all professionals on all aspects of equipment, you need to follow things as they change with the programs. There is no doubt AJ's Magic Lantern is still in development. It does not work on HDMI out for instance, at present. On the other hand, the T2i development group seems to have gotten a lot of that resolved, and that will eventually be transferred to the 5D versions too.

As I said, do yourself a favor, and check it out.

Since the OP indicated a "minimalist" approach - I'd heartily recommend that you consider this not just in terms of the number of gizmos you haul along or even the cost of said gizmos...

Think of the WEIGHT you're going to schlepp.

While the Canon L lenses in 24-70 and 70-200 will give you wonderful results and cover a superior range of focal lengths - the WEIGHT BURDEN is going to be just under 5 pounds (2260 grams) for the glass alone.

In these days of up to $150 per bag in excess weight (often over 50 lbs) charges - I'm more obsessive about weight when shooting on the road than anything else.

For what it's worth.

Well the camera arrived today so I am starting the journey. After reading the Sigma 50mm review in dpreview, I ordered one. Compared to the Canon 1.4 and 1.8, it has the best bokeh and sharpness on full frame. SInce I am not the principle photographer, I might just take the 50 and the 85 an leave the 24-70 2.8L (and it's weight) at home.

@Chris, I'll get to ML eventually, my style is to learn the camera and get it to bend to my will using the stock firmware. Once I know what's lacking, then I'll trade off the ML capability with it's quirkiness. The LCDVF is a concession on that based on overwhelming feedback.

I guess this goes under the heading of "Some can, and some can"t". Magic Lantern is a tool to help improve your professional output, and that is why I recommended you learn it. Nigel prefers not to learn it and so he will lose the capabilities you will have if you learn it. It may make a difference for you, but it certainly won't for him.Chris, I am not dissing Magic Lantern as I appreciate the enormous amount of work that has been put into it but from my point of view it simply doesn't live up to the promise of those colourful & beautifully laid out menus. Even if the zebras were of any use the fact that the menus become unresponsive after a minute or two of fiddling around with changing settings so that I need to reboot the camera to regain control means that ML is far too buggy. I am using dual system sound so in common with I suspect 99+% of other video professionals using the 5DII for video work I choose not to waste my time with buggy software that cannot be relied on. I am just really sorry that ML doesn't reliably deliver the additional functions found in the menus.

Personally, I think if you're doing much with menus in ML, you're using it wrong. :)

I like to set up ML - especially for audio - in the config file and let it roll. At most, I'll check exposure, and then it's back to standard usage. That keeps setup time quick and reliable.

Chris, I am not dissing Magic Lantern as I appreciate the enormous amount of work that has been put into it but from my point of view it simply doesn't live up to the promise of those colourful & beautifully laid out menus. Even if the zebras were of any use the fact that the menus become unresponsive after a minute or two of fiddling around with changing settings so that I need to reboot the camera to regain control means that ML is far too buggy. I am using dual system sound so in common with I suspect 99+% of other video professionals using the 5DII for video work I choose not to waste my time with buggy software that cannot be relied on. I am just really sorry that ML doesn't reliably deliver the additional functions found in the menus.

Nigel, I don't know what version you are referring to. AJ Newman's version can be set to turn everything off that you don't want and then be forgotten. I have no doubt there will be an occasional burp. The 5.6 version seems very stable. In fact, I wish the newest versions of ML-- which have been eminating from the T2i versions, weren't adding so much junk. I think the next add on will be a micro wave oven, or something like that. The propensity of developers to try to make it all things for all users, has created complexity for sure.

Your 2nd post also refer to zebras. I am not talking about zebras. I am talking about false colors which allows you to assess the relative brightness of each zone of your image lightening fast and to make ISO, aperature, or ND adjustments on the fly to fix issues, and then hot switch it back off and shoot. Its a way of assuring your shadows and highlights are still showing detail, and allowing you to get proper exposure to faces. I agree double system advances like Dual Eyes and Plural Eyes have changed what I need from Magic Lantern, but our OP here is going one man from what I discerned, and so Magic Lantern sound control can only help in that area.

Your 2nd post also refer to zebras. I am not talking about zebras. I am talking about false colors which allows you to assess the relative brightness of each zone of your image lightening fast and to make ISO, aperature, or ND adjustments on the fly to fix issues, and then hot switch it back off and shoot. Its a way of assuring your shadows and highlights are still showing detail, and allowing you to get proper exposure to faces.I am glad that you agree that the zebras are useless. I shall have another look at the false colours. Part of the problem that I find with using Magic Lantern is the lack of simple documentation. The wiki is all very well but as the AJ version is a complete re-write which just happens to be confusingly also called Magic Lantern it needs new documentation.

I agree double system advances like Dual Eyes and Plural Eyes have changed what I need from Magic Lantern, but our OP here is going one man from what I discerned, and so Magic Lantern sound control can only help in that area.The OP may be a one man band but he was not proposing to use the 5DII for audio at all Audio and long DOF and run and gun shots will all be on the EX1R.

Just to pile on the conversation, like others who use modern field monitors like the Marshall, false colors, peaking and 1:1 crop are features that have drastically changed the way I do exposure and critical focus on my EX1r but they aren't so portable as to come along on a cross continental journey so what's in the camera is critical. ML's false colors and the magnified areas of the display while recording are both attractive features (for me) to the AJ version of Magic Lantern. But for me, they have to work solidly and not lock up the camera.

I'm still getting used to the 5Dm2. It's disappointing to not have a live exposure and focus aids while recording. Unless I'm doing something wrong, both the live histogram and the 5x/10x turn off when record is pressed. So it's left up to the eye to get focus and exposure right once recording starts. It's disappointing but in context, the FF light sensitivity and SDOF still outweigh alternatives like the VG10 which doesn't do photos and has no focus and exposure assists at all. Ditto the Sony or MFT bodies like the GH2 that are chock full of focus and exposure assist features. I'd still rather have the benefits of the FF and full compatibility with my Canon glass. But that's me.

I think, at this late stage in the product's life, I wouldn't expect Canon to provide those features, ever. I think it would no doubt be a key feature in the next model and putting it into the 5DM2 would inhibit upgrades. So in that sense, ML is probably the only hope short of adding a monitor or VF like the Cineroid. All things being equal, for a minimalist approach, I'd rather have the function in firmware than a frankenstein configuration.

"So in that sense, ML is probably the only hope short of adding a monitor or VF like the Cineroid"

Smallhd 6dp seems like good option, although an expensive one compared to free.

EPILOG: I received the LCDVF and tried it immediately. I have normal middle age farsightedness ... no coke bottles ... but I cannot use it without a diopter and had to return it. YMMV

Try this GGS LCD Viewfinder Loupes 3X For 7D 5DII 550D 600D ab41 | eBay UK (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280688696653) it has diopter adjustments and it's cheap

That GGS LCD Viewfinder looks worth considering at about one eighth the price of a Zacuto Z-Finder. I have just ordered one from a supplier in the UK for just £42.50 (€48/$70) including delivery New LCD viewfinder For Canon 7D 5D Mark II on eBay (end time 13-Jun-11 03:21:25 BST) (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180653686038&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSA:GB:1123)

I'm still getting used to the 5Dm2. It's disappointing to not have a live exposure and focus aids while recording. Unless I'm doing something wrong, both the live histogram and the 5x/10x turn off when record is pressed.

Nope that is normal behavior for the Canon's when recording. You will have to get used to it.

Daniel Weber

The z-finder is wonderful. It creates a very solid platform for stabilizing handheld shots. Kudos to Olof Eckberg at Westside AV for the tip to use .6 and .9 ND filters along with a polarizer to manage aperture.

Cherries in Chisinau Moldova on Vimeo

Any critical accessory you'd recommend for a minimalist starter kit?

For a "minimalistic" kit I think I would go for Redrock's "Captain Stubling":
Redrock Micro - DSLR "Captain Stubling" (http://store.redrockmicro.com/Captain-Stubling-DSLR-Bundle)

-- peer

Hello Nigel.
Just wondered if you received your GGS LCD viewfinder yet, and, if so, what you think of it? The flip-up looks useful, but I wonder how practical it is to leave the rest on the body for viewing.

Try this GGS LCD Viewfinder Loupes 3X For 7D 5DII 550D 600D ab41 | eBay UK (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280688696653) it has diopter adjustments and it's cheap

Hardly minimalist.

That GGS LCD Viewfinder looks worth considering at about one eighth the price of a Zacuto Z-Finder. I have just ordered one from a supplier in the UK for just £42.50 (€48/$70) including delivery New LCD viewfinder For Canon 7D 5D Mark II on eBay (end time 13-Jun-11 03:21:25 BST) (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180653686038&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSA:GB:1123)

Hardly minimalist.
I think adding a loupe to the 5DII is about as minimal as it gets after an ND filter.

Hello Nigel.
Just wondered if you received your GGS LCD viewfinder yet, and, if so, what you think of it? The flip-up looks useful, but I wonder how practical it is to leave the rest on the body for viewing.The loupe is great. I used it for the first time at a wedding yesterday & was really impressed. My co-shooter was using a 5D with a Zacuto Z-finder & we swapped cameras a few times. The Zacuto is obviously better built but in use we both agreed that there was minimal difference. The optics are just as clear & sharp & the view of the screen is right to the corners. At one tenth of the price of the Zacuto it's a bargain.

The flip-up is pretty useless as it's just as easy to unclip the body & you do get a better view with the body removed.

Thanks for that review, Nigel. Very informative.

I think adding a loupe to the 5DII is about as minimal as it gets after an ND filter.

Nigel, my mistake. I meant to quote Peer like this:

For a "minimalistic" kit I think I would go for Redrock's "Captain Stubling":
Redrock Micro - DSLR "Captain Stubling" (http://store.redrockmicro.com/Captain-Stubling-DSLR-Bundle)

-- peer

Nigel, my mistake. I meant to quote Peer like this:

For a "minimalistic" kit I think I would go for Redrock's "Captain Stubling":
Redrock Micro - DSLR "Captain Stubling" (http://store.redrockmicro.com/Captain-Stubling-DSLR-Bundle)

Hardly minimalist.


Well, if you were about to shoot a 3 weeks documentary, don't you think the "Captain Stubling" setup is still quite "minimalistic"..?

-- peer

As a b-camera I don't think the captain stubling rig is minimal...no. Just my opinion tho.

Hey guys,

Would you suggest a monitor with peaking or Magic lantern for pulling focus on the Canon 5D (version 2 and 3).

I am using the 50mm 1.4, 10mm 2.8, 70-200mm 2.8 and 24mm 2.8

Thanks!

Pulling focus using the LCD is difficult. Anything you can do will help. I can't speak for ML but on a 5DM2 the LCD changes to low res when you start recording. I'm not certain but I think the same is true on the HDMI. I find it difficult to see focus accurately on a 50mm and have to use 10x to get initial focus. After that it's a guess. I can't imaging doing it on a 24mm or 10mm unless your subject is really close. YMMV

Great stuff here. The lenses you have are great and should function very well. My setup, Canon 24-105mm f/4 IS, Canon 50mm f/1.4 and a Canon 70-200mm f/4. Backpack, monopod, LED light, Zoom H1 Recorder/Mic, wireless, 10 camera batteries, 8 AAA for mic. I always plan to have enough power for 8-10 hours shoots.

1. Use a viewfinder for critical focus and for use in bright areas. The LCD is workable alone but a viewfinder will enhance what your seeing. Plus it becomes a 3rd point of contact making your handheld shots steady.

2. Focus puller is very optional in my opinion. I can do just as smooth pulls reaching around the lens. Unless your wrist or fingers have bad arthritis its optional.

3. Vari-ND I would recommend this is bright situation to get depth of field controlled and where you want it to be. Often times I here people ramping up the shutter instead. This can lead to ISO/shutter banding.

4. Best and lightest support, a monopod. It you have to keep it simple and compact. My monopod has a simple manfrotto head which I can turn to 45 degrees and then it becomes a simple should rig.