Does anyone know if the 8-pin remote can take a basic run/stop button? There isn't a lanc or Fuji port hidden somewhere is there?

Dear David,

According to my research, the answer is no.

However, for a definitive answer, I would check with Sony.

Dan are you sure? That remote port looks exactly every remote port I've used for every sony camera I've used (f900, ex3, pdw700 etc) which can take an rmb-150 which does include a start stop button for recording on board. But maybe I misread? David do you just mean a single button that only stops and starts? Not actually using a remotepaint box to stop and start the cam? Does someone actually make a start stop button to sony 8 pin?

NIck

Dear Nick,

I stand corrected.

The pin-out of the Sony F3 appears to indicate that a cable could be built to start and stop the camera.

Our next challenge is to determine what connector to use.

I am looking to make a run/stop cable for a BFD receiver. I have the pinouts thanks to Nate, but same as Dan, stumped by the plug :D

I thought those were Hirose plugs?

I thought those were Hirose plugs?

I thought they were hirose as well.

Dear Friends,

They may be.

We have an F3 in our Lab and I will have our team check it out.

Pretty sure it's a Tajimi. It's identical to my Fujinon 8-pin controller, but the next size down.

Dear David,

Are you referring to the standard Lens to Camera connector?

If so, those are Hirose.

Just to be clear, aren't we talking about the 8 pin connector labeled "REMOTE" found on the back of the camera on the rightmost side that is largely used as a paint box connector but it should have run/stop capabilities.

This paint box unit has a run/stop button in the upper right hand side of the console...

Sony RMB-750 Remote Control Unit for BVP/HDC RMB750 B&H Photo (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=WishList.jsp&A=details&Q=&sku=330551&is=REG)

Dear Andrew,

Yes, we are talking about the Remote Connector.

I'm pretty sure this is a proprietary sony connector though it's similar to a hirosi. I had an rmp 150 open on a gig yesterday doing some light repair work and I forgot to trace back the rec/run button to a pin out. If we can figure the pin out and someone can find a connector it wouldn't be too hard to fool it into starting and stopping. On the other hand there's a ton of circuitry in those little rmb there might be something more convoluted then a simple start stop signal.

Dear Nick,

We currently feel that we can design a start/stop.

We just need to determine the exact connector.

I had a closer look, and your right it's not the Tajimi as the key is in the wrong place. It might be the Hirose MXR, but I don't have one to confirm just pics on the net.

Here is the pin assignment diagram for the "Remote" connector...

I have the same diagram from the same source. It does not not match the connector on the F3 sadly, they are entirely different.

That looks exactly like the zoom/run/stop on the EX series, which is what led me down the garden path thinking it might be a Tajimi connector as used by Fujinon.

It's possible the pins are 1-1, but the connector is wrong. Who's game to test that out :D

edit: Added a pic. It "looks" like a Hirose MXR, but I don't have one to compare.

Good catch David. Glad you pointed that out with the picture. I have a call in a technician in Pro Sony repair where I live. Hopefully, he will phone tomorrow with the name of the connector.

The Sony technician had nothing conclusive but said they thought it to be a Hirose connector.

I looked around at some schematics and it sure appears to be the Hirose MXR 8-pin connector. Below is a link to a page with info and links to schematics.

MXR-8P-8P(71) - Hirose - MXR8P8P71 - datasheet (http://octopart.com/mxr-8p-8p%2871%29-hirose-585840)

I have a Jib shoot coming up with my F3, the IR remote works for stop start but I ordered the MXR8 plug for a hard wire configuration. Has anyone determined if pin 5 to ground starts the camera?

Has anyone taken this project further and developed a working start/stop cable yet?

Just received and confirmed that the

798-MXR8P8P71
Hirose Circular Push Pull Connectors
PLG 8P MALE CIRCULAR

Fits the F3 connector.

It can be ordered from Mouser Electronics - Electronic Component Distributor (http://www.mouser.com)

Photo showing connector and pin out from F3 service manual.

Next step soldering and a switch.

Thanks Steve. Much appreciated!

Received an updated Sony F3 remote pin configuration for the F3 and this one matches. The other diagrams shown in previous posts (including mine) omits the center connector, which suggest they are not the correct diagram. The remote connector on the F3 does indeed have a center pin.

Based on this pin out I see no way to trigger a remote record with a home made switch.

Any one else have some thoughts?

So I'm guessing that the commands to the camera need to be encoded in a serial data stream?

That fits with what a Sony tech was telling me. The remote port is supposed to be some sort of serial encoding ( it does offer an immense amount of options on the menu side of things) I had hoped that he was wrong or at the very least just not understanding our goal. But it seems like the remote port isn't the best way to go after all.

Not sure whether this would be more or less work - but it seems to me that you could DIY the wireless remote into a wired one. The placement of the front hot shoe gives you an easy mounting option to boot. The key would be to separate the IR transmitter into a separate box mounted directly in front of the camera receiver, with a length of cable between it and the transmitting box.

You could either use the official Sony remote, or in theory probably work with off the shelf parts. The key is to identify the transmit codes for each action.

I thought about using the IR remote too. I've spent a lot of time messing around with IR codes and stuff. I have a receiver that hooks to a PC, apps that can decode IR on the PC and also PC transmitters that can take those codes and send them. That might be neat for making a GUI on a PC that can operate the camera. Not really practical for a steadicam operator though. Not entirely sure if there are more IR codes that the camera understands, beyond the buttons on the little included remote.

I have also spent some time with IR extenders. These might be a solution to help use the IR as a stop / start. I think a big pain would be enabling IR on every powerup. There is no way to make it persistent.

Has anyone had any luck making a start and stop remote?

I am hoping to find one that will have the remote socket on one end and a LANC jack on the other. This is to be used with the LANC loop on the Ki Pro Mini.

Hope someone can help

Has anyone had any luck making a start and stop remote?

I am hoping to find one that will have the remote socket on one end and a LANC jack on the other. This is to be used with the LANC loop on the Ki Pro Mini.

Hope someone can help

Such a beast would mean a cable with a processor that can talk two different protocols. It's not just electrical connections, it's serial data protocols. It's not going to happen.

Right now the options are going to be this:

1-LANC remote to run the Mini on it's own

2-Custom active F3 remote cable sold by Denz in Germany to run the camera, and then in turn run the Mini. Denz, as far as I know, is the only company to have made a cable with simple closure scheme and a simple processor in the cable itself to talk to the camera and give it run/stop serial data commands. It's 275 Euros if I remember correctly.

The Pclix XT Pclix XT | Intervalometer | Time-Lapse Triggering | Canon 5D Recording | Video Camera Triggering (http://pclix.com) now can trigger the F3 with infrared light. The IR tranmitter can be extended up to 200 meters with a normal BNC cable. I've got the older version XL which I have sent away for the upgrade. Will let everyone know if it works as described.

That sounds like the HV20 hack. I did it years ago for a couple bucks and can probably pull up the old article on it if anyone is interested.

You open your infra red standard remote that comes with the camera and cut the wires in the middle going to the bulb. Leave some on the bulb and some on the board.

Solder an 1/8" phone socket in the remote in its place. A little shaping of the whole were the bulb was and the socket fits in and tightens down.

Plug in an extension cable, then another cable. Then solder the bulb on the end of the cable. Shrink wrap around the connection makes it look pretty.

The middle cable is so you can put different length extensions in between. You put the bulb right in front of the camera's sensor. It works real well, triggers all the things the remote can normally control and is real helpful for cranes and such.

Denz are making something that sounds like they figured the serial protocol.

Przisionsentwicklung Denz - Camera Accessories - Manufacturing (http://denz-deniz.com/index.php?page=7&productgroup=2&product=15)

There is a run/stop adapter cable for the F3 listed - 301.0362 Lemo/Hirose (Sony PMW-F3) 298,-- € / pc.

No idea if it work well or at all...

No idea if it work well or at all...

Right. I'd trust Denz myself though, they've been at it for a while.

It would seem the easy solution to this would be to install a sub-mini jack that is connected to what is likely a momentary contact switch on the run/ stop in the handle. Then the contact could be made by any simple external switch. I am sure there is a spot on the handle where this would fit. This would take less than an hour and cost peanuts. It would void the warranty however.