Hi,
AFAIK, the D7000 won't let you go any lower than 1/30 shutter speed in M mode in LV/Movie, which is really limiting.
Especially when you can go as low as you want in S mode (still in LV/Movie)
Does anybody know if this is a sensor limitation (electronic shutter), or a firmware one? And why would Nikon cripple their camera in such a way? It just doesn't make sense to me.
Or maybe I'm missing something...

Gosh, I'm not asking for 1080P60 at 4:4:4 uncompressed, I just want a usable Full HD PAL signal...
1080P25 with 1/25 shutter would be a start!
Thanx for any input...

Mikael, hello!
Just FYI (and I go into way too much detail on the Nik site) the standard shutter speed for 1080p60 is around 1/100sec and not 1/25. 1080p at 24fps is 1/50th of a second. This has to do with movie camera standards and conventions, not stills camera ones.

Hi Chris,
Nice to see you're a member on these fora as well!
Thank you for your explanation of film and projector standards (Nik fora), which is both simple and clear...

However, I still have the impression you're not fully understanding my question:

I do realize 1/50 is many shooters' 'normal' or 'preffered' shutter speed when recording at 25P, and that's the speed I also use 80% of the time. That's not what I'm debating here today.
The problem I'm facing is that sometimes I prefer the look of 1/25. Now, on any other video cameras I've owned, I've been able to take the shutter speed to 1/25 and lower. In fact, I have an assistant next door interviewing someone with a HMC150 and 1/25 shutter! Standard or not, that's a creative choice we made.

I don't understand WHY nikon did not allow that on the D7000.

And this is a real question: why? Is it hardware related (electronic shutter limitation? Expeed limitation?) or software (Codec? Nikon firmware?)

In fact, a quick google search shows I'm not the only one disappointed by that omission:
Nikon D7000 review: poor video quality | Erwinvandijck.com (http://www.erwinvandijck.com/nikon-d7000-review-poor-video-quality)
In the reviewer's words:
''There are more strange design decisions. No 25 frames per second modus (1080p25fps). Would have been useful when you live in Europe. When filming in 24fps the lowest shutter speed is 1/30. No film-like shutter speeds like 1/24, 1/25 or 1/48. No custom video settings, adjustable gamma, color balance etc. No over & undercrank function. No autofocus assist.''

Thanx for any input.

Mikael, hello!
Yes, agreed and understood.

Yes, apparently it's the Exspeed or something in the processing chain that just isn't as quick as Canon's or other's dedicated video machines. I hope it's just firmware, but I don't believe it is.

I think they've optimized the processing for stills capture with just a basic video capture as a feature. One step at a time, kind of thing.

Apparently there isn't anybody on the Nikon R&D team with any voice who is a modern film shooter. They gave the beta video testing out to a stills photographer and came back with essentially some clips that are television commercial style shots.

Admittedly, that's what Canon did too when it launched its 5Dii, but the Canon cameras yield more flexible images. Plus, the way Nikon's been promoting its video suggests that Nikon still doesn't see the knowledgeable film/videographer as its client base yet.

So while it enjoyed success with its Super 8 cameras, that's probably what Nikon thinks people use video clips for - home movies.

Dead wrong and another marketing and R&D gaffe on their part.

Oh well.

For me, the D7000 was a clear upgrade from my D90. Plus it shoots decent video: D7000 Snow Monkeys Test1 on Vimeo and D7000 Snow Monkeys Test2 on Vimeo

[edit] it seems like Erwin vanDijck got one of the D7000s with the dead pixels. That is a firmware fix, apparently. And the thing that gets me is that usually if a reviewer finds an obvious flaw like dead pixels, usually one contacts the manufacturer first rather than assuming that that's what was intended (yeah, like Nikon intends dead pixels in its cameras, right) and then reporting on it. Maybe this person has a bone to pick with Nikon?[end edit]

The noisy imagery is probably due to their implementation of the video capture software - essentially it's an extension of the live view / mirror up part of the system rather than the regular stills side/mirror down part, and may well use different circuitry and processing. So the strongest part of the camera - the stills side - isn't being used for the video side at all. That was true of the D90 and is probably still true here, with enhancements. Me, I've not had problems with noise yet because I'm not shooting the slow kit lenses, but glass that's 2.8 or (much) faster, so pretty much I have NDs and Polas on all my glass all the time - I'm looking at the D7k for shallow DOF, of course, and the kit lenses don't do well for those images.

Most of the reviewers use the kit lens or a G series lens without an iris ring and then complain that they can't control the aperture.
Well on an HMC150 there is an aperture ring, histograms, zebras, curves, knees and everything else too - if you paid $2700 for a D7000 instead of $1500, wouldn't you expect those things too? I would. I'd expect much more than that on my EX1 - but that was a $7,200 camera when it came out.

No, there isn't a histogram or zebras in the D7000 (I have them on my external monitor, or just use the stills side as an exposure meter before I take the final shot. Of course, I shoot mainly scripted drama and not grab shots or pray-and-spray, so it's different for me. )
Plus it's a DSLR with a Nikon mount and a high ISO with decent noise reduction and H264 capture. Basic, but good for me. And its video is much better than the HMC150's stills is, at twice the price.

If I need to shoot run-and-gun footage then I take my video cameras and go do that. For me, DSLR video capture is about filmic quality. And I have the software outside the camera system to deal with things like frame rates (which you had to do with Canons as well, BTW, especially before their firmware updates), color, contrast and the rest, so the video coming out of the D7000 is way good enough for what I use it for. I have the Nikon glass, the DSLR cage and rig, the external monitors, follow focus, matte boxes and filters already, so for me the D7000 just slips into the system where the 7D rental used to go. Plus it takes SDHC/SDXC cards, the same as the rest of my cameras, so nice for me there.

If you don't already have a system and you're looking for a one camera solution to everything, then probably for you the 7D is still the camera. If you have Canon glass, or even if not. (Most Canon videographers use glass that isn't Canon, at least here in the LA region. That should tell you something.) But most of us have systems already that have been built up over years or more, and so the toss-up between one camera and another is more than the performance or shortcomings of one particular model. As someone who used to own and operate at least three major camera systems every day, I've been a party to the ups and downs and really, over the years, don't give much of a darn about the merits of any particular model. As long as it does the job and brings in the bacon, that's always been good for me.

However, none of the things I've been mentioning are Canon 7D beaters, so I really don't know why, apart from economics, Nikon chose to play second fiddle one more time. Apart from the fact that historically that's always what Nikon's strategy seems to have been. Why lead from the bleeding edge when you can copy comfortably from a step or two behind?, let the other guy do the bleeding?

Nah, I'm sort of joking, but really, isn't Nikon a much smaller company than Canon? I never really looked into that before. Never saw the need to, before now. Probably a lot more conservative, anyway, right?

I don't know if I was dreaming or not but I thought I read somewhere that the D7000 CMOS sensor actually reads the full frame faster than the 5D MK II or the 7D. And the conclusion that they drew was that the D7000 would have less jello effect on faster pans than the Canons because of that. Has any one else seen something like that? I can't seem to find it now.

Greg, I believe you're right. The problem seems to be downstream of that, maybe in the compression/buffer systems, which is a bummer for now but which also means that if any 3rd party recording system like a NanoFlash could tap to the image chain before it becomes encoded/compressed, then we'll see a quantum leap in the VQ this camera will yield.

Apparently the Jello effect is less than on Canons - but post software will make all of that a non-issue within a year. The Foundry makes a very effective (and quite expensive still) high end solution, and also iMovie v.11, the freeware program that comes with the current Mac OS, already has a pretty good de-Jello filter.

Hi Chris, and thanx for taking the time to respond.


Yes, apparently it's the Exspeed or something in the processing chain that just isn't as quick as Canon's or other's dedicated video machines. I hope it's just firmware, but I don't believe it is.


Hmm, that seems suspicious... The Expeed would be fast enough to have elctronic shuter rates of 1/30 but not less?
Also, one can get 1080p24 but not 25? They couldn't squeeze 4% extra performance out of their expeed, even though it can deal with 16MP stills at 6fps?
I'm not toatlly convinced, to say the least....


Apparently there isn't anybody on the Nikon R&D team with any voice who is a modern film shooter.


Apparently so... Nikon needs YOU, Chris! :-)



[edit] it seems like Erwin vanDijck got one of the D7000s with the dead pixels. That is a firmware fix, apparently. And the thing that gets me is that usually if a reviewer finds an obvious flaw like dead pixels, usually one contacts the manufacturer first rather than assuming that that's what was intended (yeah, like Nikon intends dead pixels in its cameras, right) and then reporting on it. Maybe this person has a bone to pick with Nikon?[end edit]


I got a D7000 with many dead pixels too, but that's not what I'm complaining about here. I don't think that was Erwin's main gripe about the D7000 video capabilities either. Nikon acknowledged the issue and will be releasing a firmware upgrade soon.
I hope they take the oportunity to add a few video features...


Me, I've not had problems with noise yet because I'm not shooting the slow kit lenses, but glass that's 2.8 or (much) faster, so pretty much I have NDs and Polas on all my glass all the time - I'm looking at the D7k for shallow DOF, of course, and the kit lenses don't do well for those images.


Agreed. I also shoot mainly fast primes with physical aperture rings. But I wish there was a way I could use my 14-24 and my 85 1.4 more easily: the lack of a physical aperture ring makes using G lenses a pain!
Also, I do see some noise even with fast aperture lenses. I mainly shoot indoors though, most of the time with only a couple of lights.


No, there isn't a histogram or zebras in the D7000 (I have them on my external monitor, or just use the stills side as an exposure meter before I take the final shot)


Could you give me the reference of the external monitor you're using please.


And its video is much better than the HMC150's stills is, at twice the price.


Agreed


If you don't already have a system and you're looking for a one camera solution to everything, then probably for you the 7D is still the camera.


Nah... Nikon will eventually get it right, so I'll stick with them. 2 reasons for that: I have faith, and I will keep complaining to them till they do :-)



Nah, I'm sort of joking, but really, isn't Nikon a much smaller company than Canon? I never really looked into that before. Never saw the need to, before now. Probably a lot more conservative, anyway, right?


We gotta give it to them that they do get their still cameras right most of the time. As for video, they don't have the resources CAnon have, being, indeed, a much smaller company. On the plus side, they don't have a video dept to protect, so they can afford to introduce new video features in their still cameras without fear of crippling the sales of their video dept.

Thanx.

Do u think the shoulder mount- hoodloupe-follow focus for the 5d are the same size?
Adcom (http://www.adcom.it/prod_acc/25749_RS-5DM2SET-FA.html)
I like this above

What accessories do u suggest me to buy?
thx

Very urgent question:
Which 7 inches monitor do u suggest to use with this Nikon?
Please owners gimme a help cause on monday i have to buy it before my travel


thx a lot

SmallHD 6.8"

This is what u using?
Unfortunately in Eu it's hard to find small hd....
What kind of Input should i look for a monitor that could fit the D7k?

thx a lot

You should look for something that's

a) battery powered
b) HDMI input
c) has mounting holes on all sides of the monitor
d) spare batteries and charger
e) can put a Hoodman or similar shade on the monitor
f) some kind of transport case.

That's about it!
If you find me a URL for a local supply house in Spain where you are, then I can look through it and recommend a make and model that's available to you.

Cheers!
Chris

Muchas gracias Chris!
I can se you arevery confident with -hdslr world, what about a mount where i can mount the camera?Do u think what's worth for a Canons 5-7 d are good even for the nikon d 7000?
Could u link me models?
thx

Camera tests are excellent / impossible to see screen in full sun so video options are limited in the field.
Nikon need to address this issue. Live View cancels the viewfinder and you have to use the screen.
Think that we will use a Video Camera for Video XF300 and Still Cameras for stills D300s and D7000.

Marcus, hello!
Any mount will do - try zacuto.com

Steve, hi!
Use a Hoodman loupe or a Zacuto Z finder in the sun.

Cheers!
Chris

Thx buddy,
i went on Zacuto site but
I got lost too many....any one u tested?

This is what u using?
Unfortunately in Eu it's hard to find small hd....
What kind of Input should i look for a monitor that could fit the D7k?

thx a lot

FYI: You can order the SmallHD DP6-SLR direct, we have many EU customers. Also, our next downloadable firmware release (V1.3) will have a Nikon preset for the D7000. In about 30 days or so we will have a battery bracket that will accept the D7000 battery type.

Reed,

Will there ever be a built-in waveform display on the smaller monitors?

Here is the mount I use and unit is not as expensive as others out there.

indiSYSTEM - ULTRAcompact (http://www.indisystem.com/products/ultra_compact)

Marcus, hello!

Basically, go with what Jim and Reed said.

I use the Tim Ovel's IndiSystem stuff, even on my EX1/EX3 Letus system.

And to have Reed himself reply says something about his commitment to us shooters.

Yes, there's more stuff out there, probably too much, actually. But one has to start somewhere, and these two are great places to start. Actually Reed's equipment will probably outlast most people's.

I'd like to know about exposure monitoring too, actually, Reed. So what Eric said, since the D7k seems very lacking in this department.

Cheers!
Chris

Thanks Chris / ordered the Zacuto / expensive but have a good reputation for their gear.

I'd like to know about exposure monitoring too, actually, Reed. So what Eric said, since the D7k seems very lacking in this department.



Right - I think it would be useful. Unfortunately the D7000 does not have a clean HDMI option, so you would be waveform monitoring lots of status displays along with the image, but better that than nothing.

Yeah, I"m using the old DV rack software on a laptop with an HDMI input and a splitter to the monitor. Setup seems to work very well.

But actually, if you think about it, mostly people set their focus, apertures, etc up before the shot. Then they shoot.

So we can do this too - don't go into live view until you're ready for the shot. Compose, get focus marks, check exposures, etc., by taking stills, the way we used to do it with Polaroids. Then once everything's set, switch over for the take.

Cheers!
Chris

When I am in manual and shooting a still I am able to change the shutter speed, f-stop and ISO.
However while in LiveView which I use to shoot video, I can only change the shutter speed (which I keep primarily in 1/50) and ISO.
I have found no way to change my f-stop in manual Liveview.
Am I missing something here? My primary use of the camera is for video and not being able to change the f-stop while in manual and LiveView is going to be a problem. Not sure how it picks the f-stop but it doesn't change.
I guess the f-stop has to be all the way open in order to see in LiveView and the only control I have is over the ISO.

The older non-G Nikon lenses had iris control on the lenses themselves. But those lenses had click stops at every f-stop. I have heard the lenses can easily be modified to remove the detent so you can have smooth and noiseless manual adjustment of the iris while shooting. Wouldn't that work on the D7000?

Greg, hello!

Yes, certainly they will work. Duclos and others can do the iris mod, it's fairly easy.

Jim, hi!

I noticed that you're running an EX3.
Here's the thing.

The biggest difference between your D7K and your EX3 is that the D7K shouldn't be thought of as a video camera, but more like a Super 16 film camera. It doesn't replace a video camera at all.

I've written about this at length over at the Nikonians forums (under DSLR video) but in a nutshell you'll want to use manual everything when shooting Quicktime clips with these machines. AF-S/D glass or AIs glass works best. The G series and later don't do well because you're leaving your control up to the camera, and Nikon didn't design the camera to do that in video mode.

The way to work it is using film discipline:

a) in stills mode, establish your exposure. Nikon wants you to use it like an Arri or an Aaton. 24fps at 1/50 sec. That's it. Set your exposure, make your focus marks, start and end.

b) switch over to live action, take the shot.

c) switch back to stills mode.

Like that. Audio, external. Slow and fast motion, use Twixtor.

I don't know how much operating you've done, but in the film world about the only time we used to do aperture pulls is when we went from interiors to exteriors in the same shot. and that wasn't too often.

In the D7k, you can use the ISO and the gain setting while in live view mode to tweak the exposure while the camera is recording. But unless you're shooting video, why would you?

Think of this camera as a shallow DOF low light limited run time film camera. Very high quality pictures, but as a 100ft or a 400ft loaded film camera, limited shot length and limited shooting time.

You can tell that because Nikon didn't even plan to have a tandem battery system. Even the D11 battery pack only takes the one battery, and to access the camera's one you have to take it off again. Hardly the recipe for a video camera design.

In a nutshell, if you're shooting short clips for editing into a commercial, music video, short film or feature film, and you can plan and light and set up your shots manually, with an external exposure and a color meter, this is a camera for you.

If you're shooting long takes of conferences, weddings, events and the like, or news or anything unrepeatable, like reality, where you're not shooting film discipline (and I'd call that up to a 10:1 shooting ratio), or if you need or rely on automation of focus, aperture, shutter or anything else, then you'd be far better served with a real video camera.

If you need both in one camera, then use a Letus Elite and Nikon primes on your EX3. Even the relay lenses don't do the limited DOF thing well with wide lenses. The Letus/Nikon route lets you get the film camera look but retain the video shooting methods that most people have gotten used to.

Wanting the D7K to everything is like asking for an Aaton XTR for $3k or less - and then complaining it doesn't do sound at all. Jim Jannard's the only person who even thought about promising that one...

HTH
Cheers!
Chris

You can tell that because Nikon didn't even plan to have a tandem battery system. Even the D11 battery pack only takes the one battery, and to access the camera's one you have to take it off again. Hardly the recipe for a video camera design.


Chris,

Good points. But I think the D7000 is more versatile than you let on, beyond using it as one would an Arri 16SR. Of course it will never be as handy as an EX1/3, but in many cases, and especially with older AF-Nikkors (for manual iris) and a wireless audio receiver on the hot shoe, it's not a bad substitute.

And I tried battery swapping while recording using the MB-D11 battery. During the battery change, it switches seamlessly to the internal battery and then back to the MB-D11 battery without interrupting recording - that's pretty cool. Of course, as you imply, clips are still limited to 20 minutes by the camera itself.

Thanks Chris-- Excellent explanation!
I come from an ENG background where I used company cameras, not anything like film productions.
The only film camera I used ...going way back .. was the CP16 film camera but that was for news. But now I am retired and just do some small productions stuff.
I really just want to use the D7000 as ad in or peripheral video and primarily on a BlackBird stabilizer for some walking shots.
The EX3 will be for 95% of the shooting. If I were to get a stready cam type rig for the EX3 is would be too expensive for me. So the D7000 seemed like a option.
I may use it as a stand alone camera but in a limited way.

Eric, hello!

How's the Holidays for you?

Yeah, well you're right, of course, and I didn't even add what a kick a** stills camera the D7k is. I lent mine to my DP for a couple days and he took it for the week to Florida (I'm in LA) to see if he can't give young Phil Bloom a run for his money... (i.e. he doesn't want to give it back :-)

My point was that if you think of it as an SR3 or XTR then you don't get caught up in the "Where's the intervalometer? Variable shutter? Ramp speed? Histogram? RGB parade? Auto this and that?" and all attention is where I feel it should be - on the photography. And if that means that people have actually to learn a bit of photographic theory, then so what? Worth the while, correct?

I think that 20 minutes on a single shot is almost impossible. But I recall shooting a commercial about a month ago with beach volleyballers in it - the actual scripted body of the commercial was storyboarded, prevized, rehearsed - we shot with an EX1 and EX3, both Letus. Around 15 minutes total footage, which is actually kinda high for me, but there was action and kids involved, and client was there in force, so...

... then we needed some quick background pickups of just people on a beach playing ball - and so that afternoon my DP and I went down to Manhattan beach - and shot a couple hours of footage each, all for around 3 seconds of insert material...

That's what I'm talking about.

And you have an excellent point with the battery system - I'm thinking old school where both batteries need to be used / loaded equally, but what's to say one can't use the onboard battery as the kinda sorta battery cache to keep everything going while changing out the "main" battery in the grip? Great thought, Eric, and thanks!



Jim, thanks for your kind words!

Really the D7k would be what one calls a film-look camera. So for commercials, music videos, short and feature length scripted work, you know? I think I'm going to try to shoot entire short films with the D7k before too long - my DP is testing the camera now. In think that it will match up with the images from my EX/Letus setup, so there's my A and B cameras, if I need them. However, in lower light or tighter quarters, I think the D7k will shine.

The Merlin is pretty good at around $550 street, less used. Depends on what you're loading, and also (we're back to it) how long you want to keep on holding it. Usually on a commercial you're just going for a 5-10 second shot. That's not too long. Also I've been using Phil Bloom's El Cheapo EX shoulder clip on my D7k with rods and monitor and it works a charm. Remember that from way back when, on this forum? $80 shipped?

My pal's shooting an indie on his D7k already, and I've a slew of shorts planned for the next three months while mine is prepping. Who knows? You might see the D7k on some film credits before long!

Holiday Cheers!
Chris

Chris good to hear this stuff from a guy like u about the new NIKON D7k!
Have a merry xmas

"Nikon D7000


"So far I like the image, very pleasing and low light is very good. It has manual audio, HD HDMI out whilst recording (but also turns off the LCD like the Canons), it records full HD but only in 24p mode. For 30p and 25p it’s 720p only and there is no 50p or 60p. There also seems to be an issue that I cannot figure out. Where is the exposure meter in live view?

UPDATE: I tried shooting with it but the lack of meter is frustrating me too much, which is a shame as I think the image is really nice, good in low light. But until that meter is displayed it’s too annoying to shoot with. Why would they miss such a basic thing? Also the inability to change F-Stop after rolling is just plain dumb. I use older Nikon lenses so am ok with that, although I do have two newer ones and they have this issue. Nikon need to fix these issues URGENTLY! "

The latest firmware has been posted on the nikon site. Was put up Dec 22.

D7000 firmware: A:1.01, B:1.01 (http://support.nikonusa.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/17108)

However when I try and update the camera I keep getting ...'Battery low, can not update'

Not sure what is going on. Maybe someone else can try it and let me know why I am getting that and why it won't update.

Fixed the problem, Battery muct be fully and I mean fully charged to upate.

From reading through the thread I understand that it is possible to adjust the aperture in Live View using either the aperture ring (after changing the appropriate menu setting), or for lenses without aperture rings using the AE Lock Hold/exposure compensation/shutter button combination.

What I'm not clear on, though, is this: Can both these methods be used to change the aperture on the fly while the camera is in the middle of recording a video?

Christopher, hello!
Chris here.
If you have a lens with a manual iris on it, then yes, you can change the iris in the middle of a shot. Also, you can change the ISO setting or the +/- as well, also in the middle of a shot.
The question is, why would you?
I assume you've been reading here and elsewhere the fact that the D7000 makes a very poor video camera if you're shooting long takes and putting things on auto, right?
If you're going to be doing a lot of that kind of shooting, best get a real video camera, because if you're looking for auto and change in shot, then the DSLRs really don't do that kind of thing well.

My preferred method for shooting a D7000 is to really shoot a stills photo take first, get the lighting, exposures, etc., set right, then remember the aperture setting (we really don't use many shutter speeds in film making, normally just 1/50th) and then shoot the motion clip.

Cheers!
Chris

Thanks, Chris! I appreciate the info. So to be clear, you can also change the aperture on lenses without aperture rings (via exposure compensation, aka +/-), and hitting the shutter button to apply the change won't interrupt the shot?

And thanks for the advice regarding auto mode and long takes. I am aware of the limitations and challenges of using DSLRs for such shooting.

Christopher, hello!

I don't have my camera with me right now (my regular DP has it for testing and familiarization) but I believe that you can just change the +/- without hitting the shutter button. But even if you did, that doesn't interrupt video acquisition, which is started and stopped using another button at the rear of the camera.

In fact, I know it doesn't because on one of my earlier tests I had the AF-S going while in shot and constantly bumped the regular shutter button while shooting to update the AF.
If you like that funky, LA Law style of shot, then that's fine. For me, it's another color in the palette - useful for when that style applies. I'd say the same for auto exposure and +/- which, by the way, can be set up to give around a 5 stop range, which should be enough for everybody, given a reasonably accurate exposure before the shot is started.

Cheers!
Chris

Thanks for the info!

Just wondering if any one has tried recording a signal out to something like the nanoFlash? How were the results?

Thanks

David

David, hi!
I'd be interested to find out as well. Also what kind of HDMI to HD-SDI box would be suitable for this application, since I believe the NanoFlash is HD-SDI in only.

Still wondering if anyone has tried recording to an external deck from a D7000 (Nannoflash, AJA etc)? Would be keen to know what the signal is, how it looks etc....

David,

I don't think it's possible under the current firmware - I've found no way to turn off the extensive information displays that accompany (and are superimposed on) the video from the HDMI.

Also, the video itself is reduced in size on the image with letter and pillar boxing. The resolution of the actual image on the 1280 signal is about 900 (960?) pixels wide.

Thanks Eric,

Still looks like the image quality is good when recording within the camera.... just wish there were more options for frame rates. Perhaps I had better sit tight until the rumored d800 appears..

David

I'll buy the D800 when it comes out. I love my D700.

I think there's room for both cameras in most any kit - the D7000 as a compact spare, once it's superseded.

In the mean time I think the D7000 is the best all around DSLR made and worth purchasing.

Hola,
last night we tryed the D7000 during my girlfriend show on a teather. Today i watched what i shot and i noticed 2 little green pixels on the left of the screen. Is it the same issue somebody was talkink about a few weeks ago?
On a shooting situation like the one o tested last night with lights changing every couple of seconds, what are your suggestions? For example don't go over.....(value) of Iso, preset etc.....
I live in Pal land so which are the best setting to set to record ?
Many thanks and sorry for the question, this is the first time we'r testing this baby with interior light

gracias

Does anyone know of a good solution to smoother slo motion in post. I am using the 7D and the D7000 and they both stutter when I slow the clips down....I know it has to do with shooting at 24P but it still shows up when shooting at 30P...Any suggestion...Thanks

Use a motion estimation plugin. The best is Kronos by The Foundry. It's supposedly built into After Effects, too and is certainly part of The Foundry's composting app Nuke X.

There's also Twixtor, which is quite popular and less expensive.

Also, be sure you are working with an NLE timeline that is the native frame rate of your footage. If you put 24p footage into a 30 fps timeline, extra frames are added to keep the apparent playback speed. When you slow that down, the unpleasant cadence introduced by this will be further exaggerated.

Did some very successful slomo just using the speed settings in Apple's Compressor, part of the FCP package. Extended the clip to 400% of orginal length - i.e. playing it .25 speed, which would equate to 96fps. Nary a stutter anywhere, and this for a national TV commercial, broadcast quality.

Also there's Twixtor, which is IMO the best bang for the buck - does ramping as well. And Kronos, that Eric just mentioned, but it's very expensive...

HTH
Cheers!
Chris

Using compressor with the motion compensated re-timing will give OK results most of the time as this is using similar algorithms to either Twixtor or Kronos. However NONE of these methods are foolproof and while the motion will be smoothed out - what ALL of these methods will introduce is unwanted smearing as the application is essentially making up a frame that doesn't exist - so its a best guess and its often wrong.

Final Cut Studio slow motion demo on Vimeo

This looks good but watch it full screen and you can clearly see the smearing - so you solve the judder problem only to be left with a smearing problem - hardly what I would call a broadcast quality result.

Twixtor and Kronos have a multitude of settings which you can spend hours on to try and fix this problem - sometimes it works, other times it will fail. Try a simple test - stand in front of a camera and move your arm up across your body and face - then back down. Slow that down with either application and you will get a mushy smear trail that is very hard to fix.

You have a 7D - best bet is to simply shoot 60fps and then re time that to 30 or 24 for silky smooth slow-motion in any situation - no plugin needed. Of course using the 7D in this way will potentially introduce other slight quality issues but for me its the best option.

Thank you....I will start with twixtor and Kronos....I will let you know if it works