Quiyen,
What is a '.ems' file?
Thanks,
Valeriu

.ems file is emachineshop.com file. Download the software and view the files. It has 3D option and it's really cool. You can view the part like you are holding it on your hand, hope this help, thanks.

Quyen

Thank you!
Just looked at older posts and found it. Great Job!

great work and i am interested i your device.

a couple of questions.

1. Is the image still inverted?

2. What can i get away with lens wise. I am trying to make something dirt cheap. I have a nikkor 1.8 50mm lens, which was like 38 bux. can i shoot a whole film on 50mm?

can i get another lens this fast this cheap and where? Otherwise its gonna cost em a grand just for lenses.

great work on this adapter IMO.

B.Sundry

Thank you for interested in this device. I will try to answer your questions to the best of my knowledge.

1. Yes, the image still inverted. We don't want to sacrify quality. You can get image correction by buying external LCD or any other method that suggested on this forum.

2. The purpose of this adapter is to get shallow depth of field. Other than that, you can use prime lens that come with your camera. Fast lens can give better result but this adapter will work with virtually any lens. I suggest you go and search for Canon FD lens 50mm 1.4 on ebay. Saw one today at $40, very good price.

Hope this helps, thanks.

Quyen

The syringe part is the 1cc that use for insulin, not .5cc like I said before, sorry.

Quyen

OK I tried it today and not to bad... For some reason my GG which is 1500 grit by tholabs looks a bit mudier then I would want.. anyway look in the corner "sky" for the grain

http://s62.yousendit.com/d.php?id=2GHZ9LCKPMSK8A66CNIPMMFC4

latter

Hey Quyen,

Did you try keeping the rubber bits on the bottom of the syringe - the plunger for lack of a better word? They might stop the vibration even more from making its way down the unit.
Just a thought.

Leo,

I put the syringe part in same as the one in picture. The big part stay out of the hole.
http://www.nuocsong.com/nhatho/adapter/syringe.JPG

Craig

I didn't think that anyone can build one that fast, congratulation. Saw your video and it's not really circular motion and the circle is tight. You may check the rubber feet to see if it's too tight. How long are the white parts? When shooting outside I suggest you use AES and use shutter speed 125 or less. Good job, keep it up man.

Quyen

Ok, my design is a lot diferent then yours. I was already in a build and already had all the parts for your design. I take allergy shots,and had an old pager. I am also shooting with a medium format lens and a magnifier on the lens side of the GG to enlarge the hot spot, BUT keeping the grain as small as I can. This means I shoot straight off the GG, 2 inch GG... Also the hotspot is much larger on the GG becasue the lens is 3 inches from the GG... That's the reason the the magnifier works.

camera gg magnifer medium format lens

Anyway as for your question, The pegs or syringe plungers are only 1 inch long. I can actually make these as long at they come orginally so that's my next step. The longer the plunger the more the movement they have....I'll have to work on that next week due to working on my house on the week ends... That's my thoughts,,,

Quyen,

Just wondering how many lenses you have, and are finding a 50mm limiting? WIll youradapter work for a nikon mount?

How much would you suggest i spend on a montore for framing, and lenses.

Also what cam r u shooting on?

B. Sundry

B. Sundry

I have several FD lenses. The reason I use 50mm 1.4 is to demonstrate shallow DOF. This adapter can virtually use any lens.

How much you would spend will depend on your budget and your applications. I cannot answer this question for you. I saw some post with 5" and 7" LCD monitor, that's would be great if you can buy 1.

Below is a video file that has split between aerial image and image on GG. The shot was taken indoor using fluorescent light.

http://www.nuocsong.com/nhatho/adapter/split.mpg

Thanks.

Quyen,

What do you do if you switch to a different type of lens? Different lenses have different focal length - do you adjust the syringes as required? Or do you make a few different setup of the device to accomodate?

Leo,

Just like a camera, when you attach another lens, it doesn't need to adjust anything. This thing has a camera like distance between the mount and GG. No adjustment needed, just plug and play, hope this helps, thanks.

Quyen

Ok, I am not really familiar with all optics, but I have three different lenses with different bayonette sizes and all different focal lenghts - so maybe we are talking about different things?

The focal length is the length from the focus plane (GG) to the end of the lens. It changes, but the distance between the mount and the GG does not.

Leo,

After doing reseach, I found that FD lenses are the cheapest yet have quality among Brand name lenses. the 50mm 1.4 will cost under $50 include shipping on ebay. If you plan to build/buy this unit, I think you better off settle for 1 lens mount. FD is the best in my opinion. Nikon is good but price is a little higher. EF lenses are good but has very limited control on apature when using manually. I can do different mounts but 1 unit will have only 1 mount to go with it either Nikon or FD. Hope this help, thanks.

Quyen

I think what Quyen means is that when you mount a different lens *of the same mounting style*, nothing changes.

If you were to mount a different lens of a different mounting flange style, by revising your adapter, then you'd need to move the GG or focusing screen.

This is because, the "focal length" - a better term is "registration depth" or "registration distance" - is measured from the lens mounting flange to the film plane. In our case, the film plane is replaced by ground glass or focusing screen, etc.

For an FD (and FL, etc) bayonet mount lens this distance is 42.0 mm.

For a Pentax (and compatible) M42 screw mount it's 45.46 mm.

For the Nikon bayonet it's 46.50 mm.

There are many other mounts, each with their own registration distance. You can find them on the web.

Here, for example: http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/mounts.htm

A final note - setting your registration distance absolutely correct is very important. If it's off a bit, you lose your infinity focus - aka long distance detail. The best way I've found to do this is to focus on a very distant point of light, at night. Then look at the GG/focusing screen with a magnifying glass or other visual aid. Even a half a millimeter of registration distance change makes a difference.

I wonder if there is a standard known distance measurement for optical screw threads, i.e. 10 rotations = 2 mm, or whatever it may be. Then one could mount the GG in the thorlabs adapter just by turning the retaining rings the right number of times and setting the GG in place.

Anyone know of this?

Yes, for screw mount lenses it's the count, in threads per inch or threads per millimeter (depending on how your lens mount is rated).

However, never rely on this! There are so many variables in terms of where and how you mounted your ground glass that it's pointless. Just move the GG in and out until you get infinity focus, then lock the GG it at that point.

If you are off a little bit it's impossible to tell at anything but infinity focus. You are basically creating a macro system, like having an tiny macro extension tube.

I have spent a lot of time looking at GG in or out of proper registration focus setting, and lots of the people on this forum have their adapters off a little bit (!). Again, it's impossible to tell based on looking at anything other than faraway shots, but, a lot of people could use a little bit of GG dialling in.

The motor ran about 15+ hours, no problem. So motor problem is not an issue here. Thanks.

Quyen

Quyen,

I got a bunch of .5cc syrings and they are too small in diameter for the grommets, so I will have to upgrade to the full 1cc size! It slides too easily up and down and therefore too hard to get a good focal length.

Leo,

Sorry that I gave wrong syringe size. I still don't know why I said .5cc. Hope you can get the 1cc one, thanks.

Quyen

Some asked me what kind of battery / power supply / voltage do I use for this set up, here are my answers:

- I use 1 1.2v rechargable battery, 2 battery will cause a lots of noise yet don't solve grain problem as good as 1 battery.

- If you want to use 2 rechargable battery which is 2.4v, use 1 resistor about 15-25 ohm (I am using 18 ohm) and connect it in serial with the motor.
(+ resistor motor -)

- Use 50 ohm variable resistor will be the best choice since you can find the best voltage setting for your system with different shutter speeds.

I wonder if anyone has successfully built this adapter?
Hope this info will help you further in building a working one for yourself, thanks.

Quyen

I have ordered one of Le's adapters and even though I haven't received it yet (a few more days, hopefully), I just want to thank Le for the great customer service he gives. So far every email I've sent him, he's replied almost immediately with answers to all the questions I've had. If the product lives up to expectactions (and I've bet $200 that it will!), then I have to say it's one of my best experiences as a customer so far.

Thanks Le!

Hi all,

I wonder if anybody has finished this adapter yet? I have another version which is slightly different than the original one. It's round instead of square. Use basicly the same material as the square one, just slightly different design, works good. More to come.

http://www.nuocsong.com/nhatho/adapter/ver2_1.JPG
http://www.nuocsong.com/nhatho/adapter/ver2_2.JPG
http://www.nuocsong.com/nhatho/adapter/ver2_3.JPG
http://www.nuocsong.com/nhatho/adapter/ver2_4.JPG
http://www.nuocsong.com/nhatho/adapter/ver2_5.JPG

Quyen

That looks really Awesome.... very nice...

I just record some seconds of video using new adapter. Motor noise is there, will improve it later.
http://www.nuocsong.com/nhatho/adapter/test.mpg

That comes up as an empty file for me...

Neat stuff, Quyen. You are very innovative.

Hey, I noticed you are located in Portland, my former home. Beautiful summers up there!

Sorry Bill, the link is fixed. Weather is nice here. Thanks.

Quyen

Good job, looks very nice!

Quyen,

I must have a been a pain in the *** getting that sheet metal around the plastic, I applaud you for that - and all of the smooth edges, you really have put alot of work into this. Good job.

Hey Quyen,

I was looking at the pdf guide and you say that you used :

http://www.surplusshed.com/pages/item/l3385.html

But this is a rectangular and your guide shows that it is a round end to it. So is it the wrong?

Leo

The Surplusshed item is inside the tube so it's not visible. Thanks.

Quyen

Sorry, I meant that the tube is round and the achromat is rectangular, but I guess the tube is bigger than the achromat.

I downloaded firstshot.zip

I can hear the audio but no picture???

I have installed wmp10 and downloaded this 38mb file from a telephone modem so any help will take away a lot of pain. :( please

Owen,

There are 2 parts in the firstshot.zip. 1 is .mpa and 1 is .mpv. The .mpa contains only audio and .mpv contains only video. check the .mpv file in there to see if it can play in wmp10, thanks.

Quyen

If you are totally unable to play it, let me sum it up for you. Quyen's work deserves an audience.

CAUTION - SPOILERS BELOW



Purple flowers in closeup

Focus racks back to purple flowers at medium distance; the flowers that were in closeup are now out of focus.

Focus racks back some more to more purple flowers at long distance, and some trees on the horizon. Flowers that are in foreground and medium range are now out of focus. Looks real nice!

Motor is turned off, and we can see the grain. Motor is turned back on, no grain.

Hope this helps!

;-)

funny, couldnt get that mpv playing on anything but womble mpeg video wizard. from there i rendered an output and all is good now. :)

thanks for the work Quyen Le, very nice demonstration, it was a bit like sex (u know, cause i got modem, harhar harhar har).. i dont mind the look of that grain on a v2k, gives it a bit of a dvx feel idunno, maybe you might consider your next motor attachment to have a variable speed option to get that flavour without being too static if you know what i mean. :)

Bill, i noticed that after reading your post im still learning about all this so it wasnt obvious to me from the getgo what was happeneing? now i know. :)

Owen,

The newer version will be available late this month or next month that has an LED, Variable switch, power plug and will be in black color. When it's available for sale, it's on our website, thanks for your advice anyway.

Quyen

Owen,

You mean my post wasn't totally useless? Curses!!

The funny part is, it was intended as tongue in cheek humor and not to be helpful!

Hey Quyen,

I got the 1 CC syringes - but the grommets 3/16 X 5/16 X 1/16, they are too big for the syringe and slides up and down too easily. I really thought that with the better syringer, the plastic piece would be bigger too, but I guess just the outside casing.

Does the plastic holder for the white syringe part, press in tightly on the grommets and therefore on the syringe? This would make it alot easier to set the FL because it would stay in one place.

Leo,

Mine stays really tight and won't move even if I don't apply glue. I think you got the wrong size of the grommets. What you can do is apply some glue on the plastic parts to make them thicker, then they will stay in place. After you find a proper focal plane, put some more glue to secure it, hope this helps.

Quyen

Bill, will look forward to your next useless post cause i got some use out of the previous, better luck next time.. :) cheers.

Quyen Le, how much will the variable speed option cost/estimate?

Owen,

We are still searching for nicer looking parts. We don't know if they make nice looking potentiometers with knobs at low wattage in the range of 0-50 ohm or 0-100 ohm. We also don't know how much the parts will cost or we have to make an extra mold. I think we will have an answer for this next week, thanks for asking.

Quyen

For thos who are looking for cheap parts , try:
http://www.goldmine-elec.com
They got pager motor for very cheap.
I just receive mine, (G13566 and G15241) and they are incredibly small.

out of topic: they got another hidden marvel for those interested to build
a teleprompter. Head-up display glass for 10 $. (G13586)
It is a piece of glass, coated for reflecting like a mirror on one side.
The big thing is this is not 2-way mirror (where you loose about 50% of the light). Here it is totally clear. they are cut exactly the right shape for this use.
You would pay hundreth of $ for such thing elsewhere.
nice to build a portable teleprompter with a Pocket PC or Palm gadget.
(there are some readers program like iSilo , able to scroll text on a pocket PC)

I just finished my LED lamp too, i will give you the recipe to build one very easy.

I am interested in the LED light thing, let me know how you did it.

also, for those interested in page motors, always check charity shops for old pages and mobile phones, usually very cheap.

http://www.nuocsong.com/nhatho/adapter/LED.JPG
This is a very simple design. Hope it helps.

Quyen

Sorry Quyen,

I meant a full lighting rig, with the LEDs!

Sorry it is a bit out of topic , but here are the info.
heatsink to glue the LEDs on:
http://www.radianheatsinks.com/standard/hs1591eb.html

Leds (8 x luxeon star white 1 Watt should be enough)
http://www.ledsupply.com/led-catalo...te-luxeons.html
8 Leds are ok to grab a decent picture in a total dark room, but it is not perfect.
If you can , choose 4 white cold LED and 4 whit warm LED.

1 driver for LED (take the DC 700mA dimmable version 3021-D-E-700)
http://www.ledsupply.com/led-drivers-buckpuck.html

If you got some old LCD screen to scap, there are valuable plastic sheet and plexi glass to get from.

Epoxy glue dual-components PATTEX ALU to fix LEDs on Heatsink.
you can use the one for PC (Arctic silver, the glue not the grease ) but it is very expensive
look like this: a dual syringe with mixable resin , containing micronized aluminium
http://www.tedpella.com/14443.jpg
I think PATTEX is german stuff not distributed in USA.
Try LOCTITE Epoxy Adhesive 3805 Steel and Aluminium Epoxy Filler
Before gluing LEDs make sure the polarity of each is disposed in a way that
cabling will by short and easy.

some battery elements Li-ion 3.6V - 2 A (4 are ok)
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.a...TS&Category=739
you can find better , a kit with charger a 8 cell block (16V)
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.a...ROD&ProdID=1287
3.6 li-ion element are nice since the voltage for a led is around 3.4-3.5 Volt.
put 4 leds in serie and 2 series in parallel.

The result is a very light lamp, giving very diffuse light, you can switch on and off without risking a filament break.
People can look at it without being dazzled.
Stay cool enough to stay in the hand (but get hot anyway)
You can choose to mount the leds on a ring around the lens of your camera for MACRO.


Good luck