Are you touching the screen where an icon appears? This option should display the meaning of any icons in the area where you touch the screen.

I have tried touching all over - and there are no icons that appear as well.

I am missing the two guide icons - the one in the upper right and the one in the middle. When I click on them it says "No Guide". IS there something I have to turn on to get these icon working?

Hi,

Could you post an audio file as an attachment. Impossible to tell without listening to the sound...

Christian

Absolutely you will hear this effect when moving the camera. The mics on the HC1 are very sensitive and very directional. As humans, our ears will help compensate for changes in audio when we move our heads. The mics on the HC1, however, will not do that. Anytime you move a microphone, you will get a different sound becuase the sound waves are striking the diaphram at different angles. You can even effect the sound on the HC1 simply by putting your hand too close when focusing, etc. There's really nothing you can do about that unless you get a seperate, stationary mic to record your audio.

Well, I'm jumping in and getting an HC1. I'm kind of a tech junkie and a pretty serious photographer hobbiest and I want to learn some videography just for my own personal pursuit. What kind of minimum computer specs am I gonna need to do basic editing? My PC is OK for photo editing but it's gonna need some upgrades to take on video. I'm running XP Pro and an Athlon 64 3400 processor. I only have 1GB memory and I think my MB can take up to 3GB. I plan on capturing in HDV. How much drive space and memory will I need and will the Athlon processor cut the mustard?

Dan, you have the bare minimum amount of RAM. I have a Pentium D 2.8 Ghz (Intel's short-lived first dual-core processor) and used to have 1 GB of RAM (now have 2 GB). Editing HDV on Avid Liquid was pretty smooth, but not as fast now with 2 GB. I would recommend upgrading your RAM at least another GB.

How much hard drive space do you currently have? Keep in mind that standard miniDV and 1080i HDV take up the same amount of space: approx 13 GB per hour. So, you would need enough free space for the captured video clips, and enough for renderfiles which can add up very quickly on each project you do.

Thanks John. I figured I would definitely need more memory and more disk space. 13GB per hour - I was hoping someone would tell me how much space an hour would take up. You have got me headed in the right direction now.

i have played around few pixel upconversion program..and the best method was canopus codec and quicktime.


http://www.dvuser.co.kr/zboard/data/pds/0702112051579.wmv

http://www.dvuser.co.kr/zboard/data/pds/Untitled99.wmv

It would be nice to see the before and after...
What exactly did you do?

Shot some footage last night and discovered something odd - some of the footage is missing, sort of.

When I press "play", I see the time code advance for about 15 seconds, but I get nothing but blue screen. After that time, the picture comes on the LCD and the video continues normally from there.

What's odd is that if I press "review" I see the video that was missing.

My wife shot the video and reported that prior to shooting a "clean tape heads" message came on. I used a Panasonic digital video head cleaner this morning, and now the amount of "missing" video is up to about 25 seconds.

What's the deal? Ideas?

What happens when you capture the video to computer? I am assuming you are reviewing in-camera right now...?

Thanks for the reply.

I use Studio 10. In capture mode, with tape rewound fully, I click "Capture" and within moments the "Captured" counter starts counting as if it is capturing frames. There are no dropped frames shown, but the capture preview window remains black (and the camera LCD is blue). After now 20 seconds or so the preview window comes alive with video from about 20 seconds into the tape. I click "Stop" capture and go into Edit mode. Studio only shows whatever was captured from the about 20+ second point and none of what was shown as black in the preview.

However, if I click the "Play" button within Studio and then click either "Cue" or "Review" where that black area is, the "missing" video shows up in the capture preview window, so obviously the camera is outputting the "missing" video over the 1394 to the computer. Of course during cue/review the HC1 displays lower-resolution video and not full HDV, if that means anything in this particular case, but it still has to generate that lowres from something.

Very strange.

Hello everyone,

I have recently picked up an HC1 and I am planning on using it with the "Mumford Time Machine" http://www.bmumford.com/photo/camctlr.html . Now here is my problem........I want to use the "remote control trigger sensor" to trigger the camcorder to take a photo. The trigger for the "Time machine" emulates the sony remote control rmt-814. But the HC1 comes with the RMT-831. My question is........

Will the sony rmt-814 remote control be compatible with the HC1?.....(If you press the 'photo button' on the rmt-814 will the HC1 respond with a photo?)

I do not want to order this sensor if it will not work with the HC1......so any help would be greatly appreciated.

(option 2) The "the time machine" also comes with a LANC trigger.....but i wanted to use the LANC for zoom and focus.

Thanks for the help

Curtis Shillington

I have just recently tried the HC1 with the Letus35A adapter and noticed after capture (not during on the LCD) that it is incredibly shakey. I didn't have rails, so that might make a difference, but I wonder if anyone has any idea if this is just image stabilization on the HC1?

Did you change the focus on the lense during capture? I think it's the part between the 37mm filterring and the step up ring to 58mm or 72 mm that is the "poor" part. It's simply too big to sit steady. Try rails or something so that it's more stable.

I am in the process of hooking my HC1 to an external monitor that has an 1/8 stereo output - but when I tried to put a 1/8 stereo (monitor) to 1/8 stereo (HC1), nothing showed up. Is there a setting that I am missing in the camera I need to toggle? Does the 1/8 stereo need to be 'triple-band' to work?

Thanks

Two things.

1) I assume you mean a 1/8 stereo *input* on the monitor? If so, is it triple-band - i.e. composite stereo pluscomposite video?

2) But more importantly, the video output on an HC1 does not come out of a 1/8 connector - both component and composite come out of proprietary d-shaped connectors on the left side of the camcorder.

Excellent, I noticed that after trial and error. Thanks!

how well would the rode NT 55 work with the HC1? We have been struggling finding a small enough microphone which would be attached to the camera for run and gun dialogue with the HC1. We would be placing the mic on a bescor bracket aned I guess running a XLR to mini jack into the camera. Would you consider this a worth while setup. If not please give recommendations. This is for a one man shoot no boom operator just one guy 5 feet away from people talking. Thanks

If I were you I would get an NTG2. The NT55 is only omni or cardioid, while the NTG2 is super cardioid, which would probably be better for camera mounting. The NT55 is also phantom powered, and the HC1 doesn't have and XLR plugs, so you would have to get a (very expensive) phantom power module, such as the ones from Beachtek. The NTG2 is cheaper, and it runs on a AA battery. To connect it to an HC1 all you need is an XLR to mini-plug cable, a lot cheaper than a Beacktek DXA-6. B&H has a kit that includes a shock mount, XLR to mini-plug cable, and the NTG2.

NTG2 will be the mic, have a machinist right now making a plate for the camera to adapt a tripod plate and a AT low profile microphone holder for the Mic. Will post pictures of the rig once we get it all together. It will also allow you to change tapes without having to unscrew the plate, should be a dream come true. THX

I was playing with the Telemacro button today on my HC1 and found that it really just zooms in close, right? Is this just easier than using the zoom rocker? The instruction say it will cancel when pressing it again, but I am not sure about that. I know it gets blurry on the way to it's full zoom though...

It also allows focusing at much closer subjects, up to about 19 in. It yields some great close-ups. The only complaint I have about it is you can’t zoom out without loosing focus as the camera switches out of the tele macro mode. Even so, I love using the feature.

The links below are to some frame grabs of tele macro shots:

http://www.wilcoxvideoproductions.com/TheImage.aspx?ImageUrl=Photos/Fauna/BeastsAndBugs/bug.jpg

http://www.wilcoxvideoproductions.com/TheImage.aspx?ImageUrl=Photos/Fauna/BeastsAndBugs/dragon%20fly%201.jpg

http://www.wilcoxvideoproductions.com/TheImage.aspx?ImageUrl=Photos/Flora/fly.jpg