Okay, ready to buy and HC1. Where is the best price from a place that is not gray? PCandPlasma has it for 1099, but after seeing there "storefront", na.

Thanks

Dave

B&H $1499 free shipping in usa ..macworld show price good till Jan. 27-06 ..
call em and ask for show price ... 800 686 0955

or

www.bhphotovideo.com/mac06

Wow, I just checked that link and they've got the XL-H1 for $8,499. I thought it was still under Canon's "price lockdown".

I'm an FX1 user and have found the Cineframe modes (both 30 and 24) useful in my productions. I've been asked by an HC1 user for workflow suggestions, and I'm trying to figure out if any of the Cineframe modes exist in the HC1, and if so, which ones they are.

I also downloaded the manual and read through it, but it's remarkably subtle as to what it's "cinema effect" is.

Anyone know for sure?

Thanks,
-Steve

See the following: http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?t=56590

I've been looking at both the HC1 and the A1, and from what i've seen, it looks like they're pretty similar. There are just a couple of questions that i have:

1) Does the HVR-A1 have better battery life than the HC1? I seem to remember reading somewhere that the HC1's battery life is horrible, but is the A1's any better?

2) Is the A1's hot shoe still the "proprietary" version of the HC1? And, if it is, is it possible to put a standard hot shoe mount onto this shoe?

3) Is the included mike with the A1 any good, or would it have to be replaced?

I've been looking at both the HC1 and the A1, and from what i've seen, it looks like they're pretty similar. There are just a couple of questions that i have:

1) Does the HVR-A1 have better battery life than the HC1? I seem to remember reading somewhere that the HC1's battery life is horrible, but is the A1's any better?

2) Is the A1's hot shoe still the "proprietary" version of the HC1? And, if it is, is it possible to put a standard hot shoe mount onto this shoe?

3) Is the included mike with the A1 any good, or would it have to be replaced?

1) No, of course not. The A1 IS the HC1 with many improvements. Increasing battery life would require a total re-design internally. However, I don't know where you heard that the HC1's battery life is poor. It is on-par with other camcorders; especially SONY ones. Sure, the included battery life blows, but what camcorder that you have purchased had a good battery life included? Just get the 71D battery from SONY ($37 on eBay) and you can get over 3.5 hours of shooting.

2) The A1 has both, the SONY AIS hot shoe and a traditional cold shoe. The audio module that you see attached to it, is attached via this cold shoe. However, SONY's genius team has placed an additional cold shoe on top of the audio module so that you still have a cold shoe available, even when the audio module is in place.

3) I am quite happy with the A1 microphone. However, most users seem to dislike it. The Rode NTG1 ($230) seems to be the most common choice for a replacement.

Ok, I'm about to purchase a new camera and I would very much like for it to be an HC1. My question is if my computer can play an HD stream flawlessly fullscreen.....or as full screen as letterboxed gets...Does that mean it can handle editing HDV? I know it's a bit of a stretch but I'm hearing people who have half the resources I do being able to edit. A P4 with 3 gigs of RAM and an unGodly amount of Hard Drive space. This is really the only thing standing between me and the camera. Of course I understand the need for extra software added on to Premiere to be able to process HDV more efficiently.

Does anyone know if Newegg will allow you to pay with 2 different types of payment on one order? Yeah not the best place to ask this question but that's where I'll be getting the HC1 from so I thought I'd ask.

Thanks

OK a couple of things .. first, ability to play back an HD fullscreen depends a lot on the file type. For example, I can't playback fullscreen uncompressed (hard drive is too slow). Fullscreen MPEG2 is less taxing on a processor than MPEG4, and M-JPEG is less taxing again.

Second, the ultimate show-stopper for HDV is inability to capture footage from the camera. For example, using PremierePro with Cineform, I could capture OK with a P4 2.8GHz, but not with an AthlonXP2600+.

Once the footage was into te computer, either computer could edit the footage - just tediously slowly in the case of the 2600+....

Generally, Cineforms products (ConnectHD for Vegas or AspectHD for Premiere) facilitate the lowest-spec computers to do feasible editing, and the minimum recommended processor for Aspect HD is a 2.8GHz P4.

Well I have a P4 3 Ghz so I think I'm ok on that end. I've got a total of 460 gigs of Sata drive space totally dedicated to capturing video and a seperate 160 gigs for capturing audio. I really think my computer can handle it.

Strange though. I've noticed when I start up Premiere it says Multi-Processor Detected. I don't believe I have dual cores or anything like that. Strange.

Now if I can just get Newegg to cooperate with me I can have this camera in plenty of time to learn it.

I think Premiere is detecting that you have a Hyperthreading-capable processor.

I'm in the market for a HDV camcorder and at first I was just going to buy the HDR-HC1. Then I found the 'pro' version of that camera and it has been interesting me since. Clearly the audio feature is very nice, and I like that it can record onto DVCAM.

So honestly, which has better image quality? If the A1 looks better is it easily noticable?

I am definitely swaying towards the A1, I'm just curious as to what you guys think. The Black stretch is looking appealing, so does the CineGamma. I wish I could see the 24p setting in motion. I haven't been able to find a clip of that. Does anyone have a clip? (I'll take it in any format, but if you have it in Quicktime that runs best on my G5.)

Thanks so much for your time. I appreciate any response.

The Black stretch is looking appealing, so does the CineGamma. I wish I could see the 24p setting in motion.

Of these, Black Stretch may be the most valuable. All the Sony HDV camcorders are "biased" (not in a bad sense of the word) to not overexpose the highlights in very high-contrast situations.

Unfortunately, if the details in the shadow areas are important -- they may or may not be -- they will go nearly full black. BS lightens these areas and restores the content of the shadows -- before they are lost forever.

CG and "24fps" are of dubious value -- see the thread on CinemaMode to learn about what the HC1 offers.

Also, consider the price difference between an A1 and an FX1. Maybe its worth it to YOU to go the FX1.

It would be worth it to me, but I really don't feel like spending that much more for the FX1. I can't find one from a reliable place for less than $3,200. It's too big a price jump when I factor in the $500 mail-in-rebate.

How is it editing HD? I've only ever edited in standard definition. I'm aware that you need a fast hard drive for HD. I have a Dual 2 Ghz G5, 2.5Gbs of Ram, and 2 X 160 HDD's. I'd be using FCP 5. Would editing be somewhat smooth with this system?

Thank you for your response. It does help me out. Thanks again.

I bought the A1U, but I think the innards are very similiar on the two cams. You get the XLR audio inputs and some other things, black-stretch as explained above. Plus, it's in bad-ass BLACK!

I use FCP5 on my G5, dual 2.7, 3.5 gigs ram, standard hard drive, it seems fine - all through late January I've been messing with HDV footage, in HD projects as well as using HD shots in SD projects. The images look great, and the HD shots dragged into SD sequences allow you to crop your shot a little or pan-and-scan if you want, or you can letterbox it. You need to render those shots in your timeline, of course, as they won't play otherwise unless your whole project is HD.

And you can always transfer the shots in as SD DV if you want, the camera will convert the HDV to a DV stream and output it over firewire.

I think I've typed that same paragraph three times today!

i found that stablization off was better pic quality.
any tired canopus hq codec? is it better than cineform?

i shot this few days ago in seoul...

http://citv.dip.jp/hd06/light.wmv

Wow, really impressed. Footage pans definetely seem a lot smoother without stabilization turned ON; especially when using such low bitrates like you did.

I have some questions though:

1. What settings did you use? Was the camcorder using full AUTO? Somehow noise looks incredibly low.

2. Was this footage handheld? I know that some parts obviously weren't, but the beginning downward pan on the statue, was that handheld? I'm trying to get a feel of how shaky footage will be with stabilization set to OFF.

Thanks for another great video. :)

That video is very nice, I'm sorry I missed your previous video.

I too would like to know how you shot those, I didn't like the low light footage that I had taken.

I can't comment on the codec choices, because I don't know much about either.

About a month ago I bought a Sony HDR HC1E. I captured HDV footage from it via firewire (I-link) to my Win XP sp2 PC via Adobe Premiere and Aspect HD with no problems initially.

However, I am now unable to capture any HDV footage at all. If I set the i.link CONV to ON HDV->DV then I can capture in mini DV format with no problem. However, reverting to i.link CONV OFF tehn I cannot capture the HDV footage.

The touchscreen is showing HDV1080i in the top left hand corner.

I have tried rebooting the PC. I have tried turning off and on the camcorder. I have tried restoring the factory default settings using "reset" with a paper clip in the hole beneath the autolock switch.

The camcorder is in PLAY/EDIT mode.

One thing that confuses me is that on the upper right of the screen it says "HDVin iLINK". I would have thought that should say "HDVout" if I want to capture. But the only way I can change it to saying HDVout is by setting the camcorder mode to "camera - tape" and if I try and capture in that mode, HDLink (a part of Aspect HD) tells me that the camcorder is in camera mode.

In HDLink, on the computer, clicking on the PLAY, FORWARD and REVERSE buttons does cause the tape in the camcorder to play forward and reverse.

So the Firewire/iLink connection seems to be OK.

I womder if I am missing a setting somewhere or whether I need to be returning my HC1 to the Sony Centre from where it was bought?

Any suggestions/help gratefully received.

Thank you.

(oh yes - I am in the UK and it is a PAL version)

You read correctly;

Dial up the Flash Motion effect and you have variable frame rates from standard to very low 1fps (or maybe smaller I haven't counted) , ok you loose some vertical rez but it looks great at '1080P'

what is more - you can choose any shutter speed from 1/50s upwards (HC1E)
---
Fed up with not being able to control sharpness and exposure with CineFrame?

Easy - just dial up Flash Motion and you have '25P' (HC1E), (first click from the left) - but the great thing is you can change exposure; sharpness and shutter speed etc at a vertical rez which is the same as CineFrame - but you loose the gamma change that CF gives you. Nevertheless a lot more useful huh?


I wonder if folks with the NTSC version can choose a Flash Motion speed close to '24P' - try it and report back here

It looks like the HC1 gives 30P at 1/60th (or faster) at the first notch on the bar.

I admit I havent actually looked at footage shot with it set to the next notch down in an NLE, but my guess is it will still be 30P, but with some frames being repeats. Likely pairs of such frames, giving a pseudo 15P?

i did a side by side comparison of 1/30th shutter and one-click flash motion. 1/30th is definetly smoother, whereas one-click has this sort of ghosting motion to it. really weird.

I wonder if people with an HDR HC1 could check something for me please. On mine when I connect the i-Link cable to it and a PC, in PLAY/EDIT mode, in the top right side of the screen it says for just a fraction of a second, HDVout but this then changes to HDVin, and I am unable to capture HDV footage.

Do other people's say HDVin or HDVout in this scenario?

Thank you.

yes the flash mode does create an odd ghosting effect like both fields are being blended together as a single progressive frame.

I think mine says HDV in (can't be certain though) but it still captures

Most peculiar.

I changed to a different tape and still wouldn't work. So I reinstalled Aspect HD and it is now capturing HDV properly (and shows HDVout on the screen when doing so).

Mine says HDVin, until I click on the "PLAY" button in Sony Vegas Movie Studio Platinium, when it switches to HDVout.

I however, cannot get the HDV capture to work on two different computers. The control buttons work (PLAY, REWIND etc), however, once I select PLAY, the video starts playing on the camera, the timer starts on the Vegas software, but I don't see any video preview whatsoever (even though I can see it on the HC1 LCD screen). The software on both test computers are fresh installs of Sony Vegas Movie Studio Platinium v6.0.

Any suggestions?

Thanks
Michelle

I use Premiere Pro - I'm not familiar with Vegas. But shouldn't there be a button for "reocrd" or "capture" rather than "play"?

I've calculated the lens magnification that is found in the Sony HC1 and HC3 HDV camcorders. Although they have different diameter lenses, they both provide 10X zoom range.
The actual effective magnification is a different factor than the zoom range. Based on the focal lengths posted by Sony for the video and still picture modes, I came up with these figures:

The two models have focal lengths, both at the wide and tight ends, that are almost identical. The 35mm film equivalent focal lengths of the HC3 are 594mm at the tight end for video and 370mm for still pictures. This difference is due to the EIS margins taking up 41% of the diagonal measurement of the 1/3-inch CMOS, in video mode. So I figured the magnification effect to be 13.75X at full zoom in video mode and only 8.1X in still mode. When the EIS is shut off for still mode, the whole CMOS is used and this lowers the magnification effect.

Many people assume that the X-power of the zoom range indicates the magnification as well, but this is not always true and is coincidental when it happens. The 13.75X magnification is based on a comparison with other camcorders that use the 35mm film equivalent as their base. This is a nice magnification power for such small models, but a major part of it comes from the reduced active CMOS area, due to the EIS margins. If you add a highgrade Sony 2X telextender, you get 27.5X magnification in video mode and 16.2X in still mode. A drawback is that only about half of the CMOS pixels are active in video mode. If you could only turn off the EIS and have the whole CMOS become active, as it does in still mode, video quality would likely be increased. Maybe some control trick could be devised to accomplish this, as so many hidden features in these camcorders have been enabled.

I re-calculated the figure in an improved way, for the image magnification in still-picture mode, that is given in the message above. At full-zoom, the still-mode of the HC1 and HC3 gives 8.57X (17.14X with a 2X telextender). The video mode magnification, calculated to include the effect of the EIS pixel margins, is the same as stated above for the HC3 and just slightly different for the HC1. It is 13.7X (HC1) and 13.75X (HC3). It becomes 27.4X (HC1) and 27.5X (HC3), with a 2X telextender.

I have one more adjustment to make to the magnification figures for the HC1 and HC3, that I've listed in the two previous messages:

The magnification levels for the SD video mode of the HC1 and HC3 at full zoom are the same as I stated before, at 13.7X (HC1) and 13.75X (HC3). However, the figures for the HD video mode are different, at 11.2X (HC1) and 11.25X (HC3). With a 2X telextender, the HD video mode magnification is 22.4X (HC1) and 22.5X (HC3). The reason for this calculation change is that I've discovered that a larger active sector of the CMOS is used for the HD video mode, than I had believed earlier. And this is due to a smaller sector being used for the HD video mode EIS margins than I had previously thought. Consequently, the effective focal length, with the EIS engaged, is less for the HD mode than for SD. The larger active HD sector means that the magnification effect is less than I had previously calculated.

As this indicates, the portion of the diagonal measurement of the CMOS for both models, that is taken up for the EIS in HD video mode at full zoom, is less than I stated earlier. It is only about 22% and the amount of the total pixels that is dedicated to EIS is about 38%. This amount drops down to about 26% of the total pixels at low zoom, as the width of the variable EIS margins is reduced at that end of the range.

Only about 50% of the available pixels are used for the active sensing area of the SD video mode. I can't be sure how much of the outer margins are actually used for the EIS, as this zone may not extend all the way to the edges for SD video. Also, the variability in the EIS margins may be at the same percentage as it is for HD, but I can't calculate that with the limited information I have at present about the SD mode's functions. Nor do I know how many active pixels are used at each end of the zoom range in SD video mode. I hope to find these details later. If I had an HC1 or HC3 in my hands, I might be able to determine this.

Been up all night playing with the new toy and just freaked to find out it's 3am, but still haven't been able to get something to work right.

I captured about 10 minutes of video and imported it into Premier Pro 2.0, the MPG file plays just fine, made some cuts and edits and moved some stuff around and I'm pleased.

Now, I have my TV Monitor setup with component cables in and connected them to the AV ports on the camera, when in normal record or playback modes, the TV shines with HDVideo, cool so far.

The only issue is that I can't seem to get the NLE to pass video into the camera thru the firewire port, Adobe keeps telling me that the only external monitor option is my 2nd PC monitor, won't show up as the camera so I can't pump video to cam and pass it thru to the TV monitor.

Is this normal or am I missing a setting somewhere, tried all sorts of combinations, but can't seem to work it out.

Hoping someone can help.
MIGUEL

Does the HC1 have slow 1/4 shutter speed or it is limited to 1/60 only?

Yes, shutter will go down to about 1/4second. Maybe 1/3rd second. not sure but it's something around there.

1/60th sec is the default shutter speed on NTSC cams. You can change it via the SHUTTER SPEED function.

1/4 - 1/10,000 (in AE Mode)

All of the specs are readily available on Sony's site.

I am considering an HDV camcorder. The pro audio features of the Sony A1U are appealing. Since the HC1 is now discontinued in favor of the HD3, does anyone know if the A1U will be discontinued as well?

I'm torn - the prosumer features of the A1U are appealing, but the small form factor of the HC3 have merits as well. For now, most of my HDV shooting is for personal use, and the small HC3 may fill the bill. Unless Sony introduces a companion "pro" version with with pro audio features (unlikely in a small camcorder?), perhaps the A1U is the way to go.

The lack of mic input and expanded focus are steering me away from the HC3, and if the A1U may soon be discontinued along the the HC1, maybe now is the time to snag one of the remaining A1U's.

Any thoughts on this?

Hi Kris and welcome to DVinfo. Cross-posting the same question to multiple forums is against our rules so I've removed your other thread.

Sorry, I'm at a public airport terminal now and can't find the other thread on this topic, but I'm not sure the HC1 has been discontinued here in the US. Isn't it still listed on the Sony Style website? The A1 has definitely not been discontinued and I don't think it has even been on the maket for a full year yet. Highly unlikely that it will go away anytime soon IMO. Sony typically keeps pro models on the market for somewhere around 3 years. But of course my crystal ball isn't any clearer than anyone else's...

Some folks think the HC1 is discontinued, others don't. If the A1 is what you want, them by all means buy it. Now is always the right time to buy. All cameras are discontinued sooner or later. It's no big deal. You need to look at feature sets and ergonomics... if they appeal to you... then go for it.

Hello all, I'm Chris from Alaska and I'm new to the board.

I'm seriously thinking about picking up an HC1 -- which I can get for $1000 even with a sale combined with a gift card from one of the big box stores. I know the A1 is the logical jump from what I have, but even with the rebate there's a $1000 difference and there are a few toys that I want to pick up *IF* I make the switch.

Currently I have a pretty extensive PDX10 setup that I use for all sorts of things - short documentary, ENG, sports/event videos, cheezy shorts and so forth.

My setup:
Century .65 wide angle
Century ultra fisheye
Sennheiser EW100 wireless w/ handheld transmitter
Sennheiser ME66 mic
Shure VP64 - great wired interview mic
Azden WM Pro wireless - backup
NRG light with battery belt
Generic 3w light as backup/portable
A CF tirpod with a small video head
Monopod
Shure SM7b for v/o work
And a couple of things that don't come to mind at the moment.

I'm also planning a trip around the world and I'm going to shoot ENG type stories that I can later turn into something documentary-ish. I want to stay reasonably portable while not sacrificing audio/video quality.

So my main worry is the audio situation. I've never used a Beachtek adaptor and in my experiences the ME66 is too hot for a mini jack. I can however use the EW100/Azden with a mini jack and I've had good results with the VP64L plugged into the PDX's mini jack.

Basically I need to be able to get clean nat sound along with interviews that are "broadcast quality." I know the A1 is probably the way to go, but the extra grand is holding me back in a big way.

Any thoughts or experiences are greatly appreciated. I may hold on to the PDX if I'm gonna lose audio quality. But I have seen others talk about the Rode videomic as being an excellent mini jack mic. Getting the HC1 and a beachhtek seems kinda pointless with the A1 around. Thanks.

Assuming the pinkish reds exhibited on my first HC1 may have been a QA issue (based upon testing another one at CC), should I try another HC1 or just wait for the HC3?

I'm willing to give the HC1 another shot if there's any hope of "reasonable" reds. I don't mind the larger size and at $350 less, it sure is tempting.

I know there's only a few HC3's out there, so reviews are scarce, but based upon the preliminary specs and feedback; does the HC3 produce a better image than the HC1? From the specs on the Sony site, the HC1 has more pixels on it's sensor than the HC3 (3MP vs. 2.1MP). One would think that's better except you only need 2.1MP to capture 1080x1920 video, right? Are the additional pixels just for the still camera resolution?

So here are my pros and cons:

HC1 Pros:
I've used it and liked it.
The price is right.

HC1 Cons:
Red color accuracy on my first unit was terrible!!!
Older (relative) technology

HC3 Pros
Better color accuracy???
Better overall 1080i image???
Smaller, lighter
Higher resolution LCD

HC3 Cons
Not a proven performer yet
Missing mic/headphone jacks
No manual shutter

Am I missing anything?

For me the #1 criterion is picture quality. I need to capture videos that will look good on my Sony 60" SXRD 1080p RPTV. That's the only reason I attempted to move up from my older Sony MiniDV 480i in the first place.

Steve

Extra pixels get used when the electronic steady-shot is activated. Which pixels these are is not entirely clear, to me and my small brain at least.

I've had an HC1 for 2.5months now, viewing on a 48" RP HD Sony. The reds have never caught my attention as being problematic. The camera does have a 'cooler' overall tone than, for example, my JVC HD1.

Another couple of Pro's are top loading tape and better low light performance. I have FX1 and TRV50 and did not think that the HC1 was a reasonable second camera replacement for the TRV50 because of the lack of the two above Pro's. I will problabley get a HC3. Lack of headphone jack and mic input is not of concern to me as a second camera but as a single camera may be an issue. HC3 does have the option of using the new Bluetooth mic though that does look attractive for me.

Ron Evans

Steve, you cannot only compare the number of pixels, the 2 CMOS aren't based on the same technology.
The one inside the HC1 is 'classical', the one of the HC1 is a 'Clearvid' one (pixels in diagonal) and the rate of red and blue pixels on the green ones is not the same in these 2 technologies.

Have a look too here http://www.sonyhdvinfo.com/showthread.php?p=28440#post28440

When you write "you only need 2.1MP to capture 1080x1920 video, right?", it's false because you confuse the number of 'screen RGB pixels' and the captor pixels: for example, a LCD screen for computers, announced with a resolution of 1080x1920, hold in fact 1080x1920x3 elementary pixels (the 'x3' is to take into account the red, green, and blue elementary colored pixels).

When a camcorder hold 2.1MP on 1 captor, or it's the total of monochrome pixels in case of a 3xCCD or 3xCMOS, or its the total number of pixels whatever is the elementary color in the case of the mono-chip camera.

The HC1 and HC3 have a mono-CMOS, but, due to the different technology, the HC1 has 2 green for 1 red/1 blue pixel, and the HC3 has 6 green for 1 red/1 blue. When you compare the effective number of pixels between these 2 camcorders, you see that the HC1 has quite the same number of green pixels and 2.5 times more red and blue pixels than the HC3.
But, on the HC3, with pixels in diagonal, Sony claims to have the quite same result with its Clearvid CMOS.

In an another hand, remember that the HDV format has a 4:2:0 color scheme for which, on the paper, the weight of red and blue pixels of the HC3 are enough.

this is hc1 footage
canopus hq codec... upsize to 1920...deinterlance and 24p film look


http://www.dvuser.co.kr/zboard/data/pds/canopus.avi

It's not dling for me...

However, I did see your other HC1 24p filmic color corrected footage at:
http://www.sonyhdvinfo.com/showthread.php?t=4612

Could you tell us how you did that, step by step? It looks awesome.

convert ur footage to 10bit or 16bit and color correct in avid hd pro.. change gamma curve and color correct,,,your done.

http://www.dvuser.co.kr/zboard/data/movie1/1144574772/filmlookHD_1080p.wmv

Did you record your original footage using the camera's own CineTone/CineGamma option? If so, did you use Type 1 or Type 2 (not sure if these options are only on the A1 or also on the HC1?).

Could you explain exactly what you did in color correction? Like, what exactly did you do to gamma change and color correct?

http://edu.sony.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&storeId=10055&productId=10346&vaioFlag=false&langId=-1&currentContractId=21505

theres a link to sony's education site, and the hc1 clearly for sale at 1500. unless they just havnt updated this part of their webpages yet, it looks like u can stlil grab em direct. came across this in the midst of some major hc1/hc3 research. leaning towards hc1 right now, primarily for documentary of a month long australia trip im going on in june. anyone point me in the direction of some cheap prices for the hc1? thanks a mil.

edit, forgot to mention hc1 is also in the business area of sony's website.

came across this in the midst of some major hc1/hc3 research. leaning towards hc1 right now, primarily for documentary of a month long australia trip im going on in june.

If you expect to use it for a project for potential public presentation or sale, I suggest looking into the A1U so you can record better audio. Failing that, you can get a BeachTek XLR adapter box which are pretty nice. I know the additional cost isn't attractive but cleaner, clearer audio will help you maximize the overall presentation quality. Not only is the XLR connection electrically noise immune, you'll have the option to use higher quality mics.

For private use, it's probably not as important.

Is there some trick to setting an HC1 to record an incoming DV/HDV signal via firewire? I followed the instructions in the manual this morning to adjust various menu options, but the HC1 seems to be determined to send a signal out rather than record what's coming in. I ended up switching tapes with my other camera and getting the dub to work that way, but I'd still like to know how to record into the HC1.