I am looking into getting either an external "TV monitor", or an external LCD monitor for a VX2000 I want, so that I can judge the focus better, does anyone else use one? If so, which ones, why, etc? Any information would be helpful, thanks guys.

Moore

Just curious, you don't think the built-in LCD screen on the VX2000 is adequate? I've always thought it was pretty good. Of course a professional field-portable CRT video monitor is the best way to go, but even the smallest of these are bulky, heavy and expensive.

The really low-priced 5.6" LCD monitors that are out there, I don't think they're any better than the built-in LCD screen on the VX2000. They're mainly handy for cameras that don't have flip-out LCD displays such as the XL1S.

I continue to try and find an acceptable LCD that will allow me to judge focus. I haven't found anything except, perhaps, the over $1,000 products that come out of the LA region.

For a CRT, I think you need about 9" for color, maybe 5" for B&W.

Right now, the viewfinder on my PD-150 is about as good as it gets for prosumer cameras.

My EVW-300 and DSR-300 have viewfinders that make it easy to determine focus. I keep wondering if one of their viewfinders could be modified to work with a 150/2000.

Anyone know where to find repair manuals for these viewfinders? I'd guess they are available directly from Sony.

BTW, the viewfinders sell for around $800 so they are no cheaper than a large monitor.

Chris,

I don't have a VX2000 yet unfortunately... I'm just looking into the equipment I'll be purchasing when I get it. I've heard people say it's tough to accurately judge focus by the color LCD or viewfinder... so I was wondering what other options people were using for improving that... thanks, and anyone else who wants to post, please do so..

Moore

I think most LCD's are going to generally be of less video quality than a monitor. Via firewire, I use a D8 walkman and while it's not a great LCD, I've learned what range is right for exposure and to some extent, the focus. I use it as a record deck, but the image is very handy. I like how small it is and the price ($800 w/ battery -about $300 less than miniDV and a thou. less than dvcam versions).

I was thinking of getting a 13"tv for $79 and putting a cheap vcr in the middle to make the video connections, but while the image would be much better (as well as the price, it seemed a bit of a hassle.

Whatever display you use/have ,you should push the sharpness setting on that diplay (if availabe) to max if focussing is your first concern.

If you zoom in and then press the momentary focus button on the camera, the focus is almost always right on the button.

As I get more used to the PD-150's viewfinder, I am finding it easier to use for focus and exposure. I might even get to like it. I did find a big difference in the results when I finally started using the large eye-cup inside and outside. The light leaks with the normal eye-cup really fade the display.

The "zoom-in/zoom-out" approach is very usefull if the back focal adjustment of the lens system is perfect on your camera. Better checK the approach first because some camera's just rely on automatic focussing and are not optimal in focus using this approach.

You raise a good point. It would be useful for everyone with a VX2000/PD-150 to check this. The cameras are supposed to be backfocused out of the factory. And for the most part they are.

I had to send my new 150 to Sony for a repair. When it was returned, the Backfocus had been misadjusted.

So check them once in a while. Cameras with replaceable lenses have a backfocus adjustment that can be made by the operator.

A suitable target for backfocus checking is a sunburst type of pattern like the Japanese flag. The expanding wedges design.

Print this out on a laser or inkjet and place it about 20 feet away from the camera. Then, using a large TV image to check focus, first focus on the page at extreme telephoto. Then zoom fully wide. The graphic should stay in focus all along the way. If it doesn't, you may need to send the camera off to your favorite repair shop.

did I mention that you have to be in manual focus mode?

Actually, while we're on the subject, does anyone know the main difference between a "professional monitor" and a regular TV? I'm sure there are plenty, as the price would indicate... but what about just buying a cheap 13" TV and using that as a focus monitor?

Moore

For the purpose of focusing, any well-focused tv or monitor will work. Probably need at least a 9 inch display.

For focus and exposure, monochrome monitor is easier to use once you get used to it. A 5" monochrome monitor works well.

Usually a 'professional' monitor will not have a tuner, only non-RF inputs.

Beyond that, anything goes. Underscan, cross-pulse, blue-gun, component input, broadcast phosphors, electron beam-stabilization, multiple setup menus, wide-screen, and more. Did I mentiion price?

So I guess a low-cost alternative to professional monitors, would be a $69.99 Apex 13"?? Turn the color down, and sharpness up and I should be ok, or at least more able to judge focus than on the built-in LCD.

Moore

<<<-- Originally posted by moore511 : So I guess a low-cost alternative to professional monitors, would be a $69.99 Apex 13"?? Turn the color down, and sharpness up and I should be ok, or at least more able to judge focus than on the built-in LCD.

A 13" tv will do OK. Turning the color down isn't the same as using a monochrome monitor it that's what you mean by that.

A monochrome monitor has a continuous layer of phosphor on the faceplate. A color monitor has some combination of RGB phosphor dots or bars or wires that limit the resolution to the pitch of the RGB triplets. That's why pro viewfinders are always black and white.

Actually, if you could find a 5" portable monitor with a composite input (AV Input) that would be better for focusing purposes. I don't think you can find non-pro monochrome monitors any larger than that.

You might prowl tv repair shops and see if they have a 9-13 inch b&w TV in the back with composite inputs and maybe even 12 volt power. The time spent would be worth it.

Actually, now that I think about it, security monitors are often b&w and are relatively inexpensive. Might look there too.

If focus is a big concern for your, there is another possibility for you, something I sometimes do for resolution comparisons. Just try to find one of those (handheld) digital LCD oscilloscopes and use it as a waveform monitor. If using "delayed sweep mode" you can select the area of (focus)interest and maximise the "noise" on the signal. This is not only more precize than intensity focussing but also allows you to verify the signal as a whole (waveform monitor function)

That works very well.

The principle is that the best focus is matched by the maximum contrast. So the 'fattest' signal means the best focus. Many autofocus cameras use this mechanism.

I have a very small Leader waveform monitor that I use on critical shots. It works in this manner plus, of course, it allows me to maximize the image quality.

Hrm... where can I find more info on these? Such as price/place to buy, etc?

Moore

I personnaly don't need a portable scope. I use my Gould AS3000 or my Hameg HM312 for videoexperiments at home. I know Fluke has handheds(www.fluke .com). I think Tektronix too. The Fluke prices are about $1000 as far as I remember.

I've been salivating over the new Sharp 10' LCD portable TV. I know it's big, but it's a TOY and it's compact. I had been looking at the marshal 5.6 " TFT monitors and my gaze keeps wondering back to the sharp.

Very nice. Should serve as a focusing tool with the VGA (640x480)resolution. 12VDC input (as do all of their LCD televisions)

The only question I have is about the 200:1 contrast ratio. Is that good enough? The Sharp 13" and above models have 400:1.
I have no practical experience with LCD displays except the small camera-mounted units. Sony does not state the contrast ratio of the monitor on the PD-150

The price is fairly good at around $670 U.S MSRP.

I took one of my cameras in to the retailer and tried the varous LCD TV/Monitors. The higher contrast and brightness on the 13' blew the 10" away. Then there was the Samsung with the 1280 x 1024.(not to mention the 42" plasma that you need a 2nd mortgage for :)

That's how I got into this rat race to start with. I kept going up and up in price and quality. I guess I only like the good stuff.

Amen to that.

Anyone know of a camera mount for the top of a 42" plasma monitor? :-)))

Just as a side note...

regarding the "push in/one-touch focus/pull out" method described above, keep in mind that if your image is particularly out of focus before you zoom in, the one touch will take a hideously long time to bring it in due to the nature of how auto-focus systems work... try and dial it in a bit before the zoom manually with the focus ring... I've literally had my 150 NOT focus at all if I was just doing macro work...

Good shooting!

-Shaun

I've posted this elsewhere, but the cam will focus for macro work at the wide setting, but in telephoto, the min focus distance is much greater.

Regarding minimum focus distance in telephoto... that goes wqithout saying... the point I was raising is that if the camera is focused at say 3' or less and is then zoomed in fully (12x optical) on a distant target to acquire focus and you use the one-touch, it will take (nearly) FOREVER to rack in due to the utter lack of contrasting edges to facilitate focus... my VX1000 and DSR 200 always seemed to tack up a little faster...

Good shooting

-Shaun

I've been researching this same question. I did buy a 5.6" Varizoom at one point and was so dissatisfied that I returned it. The visual angle was so limited that it was extremely difficult to use. My application is for filming stage performances. I often find that it is difficult to tell if my VX2000 exposure and focus is good when the subjects are under spotlights. The spotlight button helps, but I often still have problems when only a small part of the screen is brightly lit. This is difficult to notice on the VX2000 LCD. I have considered a 9" or 13" monitor as the best way to get a really good monitor to use when filming these events. However, the AC requirement and the overall bulkiness of this approach makes it not ideal. Recently I have been looking at the newer personal DVD players that are emerging. Some of these have great displays with respect to visual angle, but they are still pretty pricey ($800=$1000). The DC operation is ideal, but it is difficult to find out how long the battery lasts in these models (often not a published spec). The upside is that I would have a nice portable DVD player to show my work at events and tradeshows. If anyone has a recommendation on one of these units, then please let me know what it is...

I use a 5" TV set ($150) that has composit video in when I need to be free from wall-power. I take a 12 volt battery with me and power the set. It isn't at all as good as an eight-inch high-res Sony but it isn't $1700 either.