Xander, the only B&W viewfinder a know that will fit the XL2 without any modifications is the FU-1000. In fact this is a Ikegami viewfinder which Canon has modified with a suitable socket connector and put their Canon brand on.

Thanks. Modification will probably be rather expensive.

I think Charles Papert has, or someone on the site has the pin-out for the viewfinder socket. You'd need the pin-out for the Canon and the finder to figure out the hook-up.

Try doing a search "pin-out", or "pinout", or "viewfinder" and see what you find. I think it was about a year ago.

Charles, any more details on the breakout? It needs 9v, right? Any other magic? thx in advance..

The Canon adaptor takes in 7.2v from the battery and bumps it up to 9v for the viewfinder. The engineer who built me the box took the circuit board out of the adaptor and rehoused it, then tapped into the power connectors and also found the video in pin. I apologize but I don't have the pin outs to pass on to you guys. We tried in vain to find the pinouts for the FU-1000 connector, no dice.

I'm sure the correct answer is of course not, but is it a reasonable compromise? In other words can I make critical decisions about focus and exposure with it? Not really happy with the other very portable solutions out there. I don't hate the color viewfinder exactly, but I don't entirely trust it either.

You can definitely make critical focus assessments with it. That's what the peaking control does. The other advantage it has, being B&W, is that it shows you the scene in gray scale. That allows you to see if two different colors have the same luminance value. Too many colors of similar luminance give your scene a lack of contrast even though viewing it in color may make you think otherwise.

After proper brightness and contrast adjustment, you could rely on it for exposure. Just make sure you are properly white balanced if you don't have an external monitor because that's one thing it sure won't tell you.

-gb-

Thanks for asking, Marco, because I've been wondering the same thing.

How do you white balance properly? Do you have to have an external monitor for that?

Dale

I'm not certain, but I'm guessing the white balance on the XLH-1 works like my XL2. When using the FU-1000, you must white balance with the white balance button. Follow the instructions in the manual. Aim the camera at a white surface (properly exposed) and 'set' the white balance untill the symbol in the viewfinder stops blinking. You can set two or three 'presets' if you are moving between locations (Inside and out). Alternately, you can choose the 'daylight' or 'tungsten' settings for a quick approximation.

Does anyone know how many lines the FU-1000 will resolve and whether it will work with the XLH-1? This late in the life cycle of Mini-DV it would help me justify this purchase if I knew it could be used on future generations of equipment.

Thanks for asking, Marco, because I've been wondering the same thing.

How do you white balance properly? Do you have to have an external monitor for that?

Dale

Many news crews don't have a colour monitor. They use the usual white card/ handy piece of white paper for a white balance. The other option, under known lighting conditions, is to use either the preset daylight or tungsten as required.

The high end cameras also tell you the colour temperature reading, although some cameras can be off, so you need to check the read out against a known light source. However, if you're clued up, you can usually spot if a camera is giving a false colour temperature reading. I should add this doesn't affect the white balance itself, it's just the read out that's wrong.

The cameras normally tell you if they can't do a correct white balance. Of course, occasionally you do get a faulty camera, but you should check the camera before going on a shoot.

Okay, I'll answer my own question -- half of it anyway. At the B&H listing it says that the FU-1000 displays 500 TV lines. Damn. That's pretty impressive. I thought it was going to be like 300.

I'm not certain, but I'm guessing the white balance on the XLH-1 works like my XL2. When using the FU-1000, you must white balance with the white balance button. Follow the instructions in the manual. Aim the camera at a white surface (properly exposed) and 'set' the white balance untill the symbol in the viewfinder stops blinking. You can set two or three 'presets' if you are moving between locations (Inside and out). Alternately, you can choose the 'daylight' or 'tungsten' settings for a quick approximation.

I'm sorry, I should have been clearer with my question. I know how to white balance, but how do you know that that is the correct one? With my VX2000, when I white balance, it can give me white balance that is a little to yellow or blue, depending on how I angle my white card, how close I am to the light source, etc.

Marco,
I bit the bullet and spent the money on a FU 1000 last year and have never looked back. For me, I was fed up finding some wonderful shots - only to find the focus was not quiet right. Now I have the FU 1000, I generally get a wonderful crisp shot most times. With zebras on, I find the $4,000 (PAL Version) an ideal solution (for me).
I mainly shoot wildlife using the Canon 100 - 400mm F4.5 L as well as the standard 20x HD Lens.
Perhaps you could arrange to test before you buy?

Marco- The Fu-1000 is SUPPOSED to work with the xlh1- that's why they have two seperate plug ports like the xl2. One for the color viewfinder, and one for the black and white.

SOME people are reporting issues with the older models of the FU-1000 and the XL-H1. Just as SOME people had issues with it and the new XL-2 (See the myriad threads about main body fuse's being blown)

After blowing the fuse on my XL2 twice, Canon (Through ZOTZ) replaced my XL2 and it's been working fine since.

Well, I took the plunge. I bought an FU-1000 used from eBay (fingers crossed) and it should be here Tuesday. I'm pretty excited about it. This fuse blowing thing has me pretty nervous though.

Dale, You have to trust the camera's white balance calibration. That's what it is designed for. When the little flower stops blinking the camera is 'balanced' on whatever white card you have it aimed at.

The only way to know if the balance the camera selects, is the balance you judge as 'correct' is to check it on a color monitor. Assuming of course, that the monitor you check it on is correctly balanced itself.

Marco- Do you already have the XLH1? Keep us posted on the fuse problems. Like I said, the camera is DESIGNED to take the FU-1000. So there SHOULDN'T be any problems.

Oh no, I just got an XL2. I'm just thinking about down the road (probably years).

Right. I'll be moving to the XLH1 in probably a year. I'll be taking the FU-1000 and the 16x manual with me. And off course, the dual battery pack as well. I will probably buy the body kit, and the 6x.

I have a buddy who just got his, and he says the 16x really does look good. He's doing a series of tests today with his Mini-35, and the set of primes he has from his Mitchell BNCR.

He is one of the people I mention, who had an issue with his FU-1000 and the xlh-1. As soon as I know the full details on it, I'll let you know.

FYI- The reason I'm waiting a year to jump 'up' the HDV - I don't get much call for it right now, and I'm really interested in seeing what RED can do.

Good news about the 16x manual lens. Now I have an excuse to get that too! I tell you, the more I use this camera the less anxious I am to make the jump to HD. Until I can get this level of functionality (interchangeable lenses, CRT viewfinder, knobs and dials for most every function), I'm happy to stay with MiniDV. Heck, practically nobody even owns an HD set and the ones that do aren't even watching HD footage on it. I'm most excited about finally -- finally -- being able to pull focus with this new viewfinder. I don't know how people with HD cameras even do that without a monitor.

I took delivery of my XL H1 last month and plugged the FU 1000 straight into the socket. As per the instruction manual for the H1, the FU 1000 is noted as one of the many accessories. In fact, I haven't even looked at the viewfinder that came with the H1 - simply because I have gotten used to using the FU 1000, and feel I would not get the same results using the alternative.

Marco, I think you will be very impressed when you get the hang of using the new FU 1000. Make sure you calibrate it correctly using the color bars.

Also, for what it is worth, sharp focus is normally just a smidge further than your eyes might tell you (it is for me anyway). You may want to try going through the focus - and then come back with the focus.

Good Luck.

Well, the FU 1000 came today and wow. All of the misgivings I had about investing in SD right now completely went away. I can't believe that after all this time I can actually look through an eyepiece and focus! Another thing I didn't expect is that since the eyepiece is so far forward the camera actually balances much, much better now. I definitely think this is a must-have accessory if you've got an XL2.

Can't seem to adjust the diopter to my eye without glasses. It almost seems like there should be another lens in there or something. For those who have the FU-1000, how deep into the eyepiece is the lens? In other words, I could poke my finger down in there about two inches before I would touch the lens (not that I go around touching the lens mind you). Is this normal, or should there be another lens at the top of the eyepiece? Adjusting the diopter lever doesn't seem to do much of anything.

Marco,
There is an 'extension tube' that you can screw on to the viewfinder, that actually places your eye even further away from the diopter lens. Additionally, if you crank on the circular wheel (Where you expect the diopter adjustment to be) all you do is extend and retract the lens tube. The diopter adjustment is actually the tab BELOW the tube, with the numbered increments. You must push the tab IN, and then move it back and forth to adjust.

The extension tube puts the camera FORWARD on your shoulder, so you may or may not like it, depending on the battery solution you have on the back. But I suppose it might be necessary for some vision issues. Check into it.

I usually leave the lens cap ON, then turn the camera on, and focus on the white readout letters.(date, time, battery etc.) If the indicator levels and numbers look sharp to my eyes, then I know I am focussing on the crt correctly with my vision. Then I remove the lens cap, and focus on my subjects.

Yeah, it's a definite plus over the color viewfinder. You just have to remember to check your white balance often.

Also, the nifty light on the underside comes in handy when using the 16x manual, and reading focus numbers on the lens in the dark!

Additionally, depending on how your camera is rigged, and how you pick it up and handle it, it is possible to bump the Brightness adustment when mounting it, making your image appear darker all of a sudden. If you find yourself wondering WTF?... check you brightness settings.

Enjoy

Ah, I was hoping it would be something like that. The eyepiece didn't come with the extender, but I don't really miss it. I like having the eyepiece short since the camera balances so much better. Sure hope the XL H1 comes down in price in a couple of years. I don't think I can go back to an LCD vewfinder.

Ah you bought it used. Yeah, there's an extension tube, and of course the whole battery adapter that fits in the battery well of the XL1 and Xl1s series camera. (I put mine in a drawer somewhere... hope I can find it one day.)

Did you get the diopter adjusted properly? It's a bit stiff to move, which is kinda nice in that it won't get bumped.

Worked like a charm. Thanks Richard! You weren't kidding about it being stiff to move.