How do you all transport your XL2? Fully assembled or in their seperate parts (body, lens, viewfinder, microphone)?

I was wondering how you all travel around from location to location. I'm not concerned about flying just yet, just driving between shoots. I have a Pelican 1650 case with padded dividers that I plan to use, and will only be using one lens for now.

Is it okay to have the camera fully assembled when you travel around? I've only had an AG-DVX100A before.

When I was schlepping around the Xl1 at work, it was in a pelican with Pick-out foam padding. We carried it pretty much assembled, lens and viewfinder attached. It snuggled down real nice in the cavity that was plucked out for it.

I am about to go shopping for a case for my new Xl2. I'm curious, why did you get padded dividers instead of foam?

I have on order a Kata case that is made for the XL2 assembled. It's first task will be a trip to the Phillipeans.

Visit their web site. It is most likely a little cheaper than a Pelican and can go anywhere - except the water.

DBK

I'm using the same PortaBrace case I used for the XL1s. Works just fine and transporting the assembled camera is a breeze.

Jay

Darren,

Do you have the model number for the Kata case or is it the same one that is used for the Xl-1s?

Chris. I use a Tamrac hard case designed for a 35mm setup forgoing on planes. I take the entire camcorder apart and pack it in using the form pads that came with the case. In the car I use a Tamrac bag designed for the XL-1s. Even in this I take the viewfinder off. This is the most vulnerable part of the entire camcorder. It takes 30 seconds to put it back on. Also, in the car I carry it on the back seat with the strap going through the headrest. Bob

2 Questions.....

What model number is it...and would it fit the XL2 with the FU-1000?? Just curious.

Chris--

The model number is CTC-2. To be honest with you, I don't know if it would fit with the FU-1000 or not. I'm trying to remember how much larger, if any, it is than the new standard viewfinder.

You could call the folks at PortaBrace (802-442-8171) and ask them. They're easy to reach and willing to answer questions.

Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

Jay

I just got back from 2 weeks in Hawaii. I packed my camera disassembled in my Kata ccc-10 case and it fit easily in the overhead bin. Other than that, I usually keep it fully assembled in that same case.

The FU-1000 is a good bit larger than even the new stock viewfinder. Thank you for the phone number and I'll research the model as well. Thanks again for your reply.

I have the FU-1000 and the Double Battery pack mounted on my XL2 with the 16x manual lens. It looks like anything I buy is going to need to be at least 24 inches long by 10 inches wide by ten inches high. IF I load the cam in completely assembled.

I am thinking at this point the Pelican 1650 is the only thing that will hold it?

<<<-- Originally posted by Hart Boyd : Darren,

Do you have the model number for the Kata case or is it the same one that is used for the Xl-1s? -->>>

I believe it is the same as the one used by the XL1s.

I also have an older portabrace that I use too.

DBK

I've decided to keep my camera mostly assembled between drives but will remove the viewfinder and lens for longer trips or if I ever need to get on a plane.

Richard, I went with padded dividers instead of the pick-n-pluck foam for several reasons. The foam will occasionally leave dust particles on equipment. Not a lot but enough on areas that tend to rub against the foam whenever I insert or remove the camera, on the microphone of my AG-DVX100A for example.

I also went with padded dividers because I only have two Pelican cases, and I find that whenever I purchase new equipment, I have to cut or adjust the foam accordingly. With the padded dividers, it's just a matter of moving dividers around instead of buying more foam or plucking out more custom fit compartments. I purchased an XL2 recently - with the padded dividers, I won't have to buy another foam set.

The padded dividers does have its drawbacks though. The foam, when cut correctly, provides better support and protection in my opinion. And you only have so much ways to fit equipment with the dividers. This is why I decided to use BOTH foam and padded dividers for my case. Check out the photo below:

Pelican 1650 Padded Dividers & Foam Blocks (http://www.commandnotfound.com/images/forum/xl2blocks.jpg)

What I did was take some of the Pelican foam I had remaining from previous cutouts, measured them to account for the negative space surrounding my camera, then enclosed the foam in a durable but soft fabric to keep dust from catching on the XL2's knobs, buttons, etc. In the picture, I lifted one of the blocks so you can see how I enclosed the foam with fabric.

I plan on attaching velcro strips to the blocks so that they hug the walls even more. This way, I can also move the blocks around.

Here is a picture of my Pelican 1650 with XL2 (14X manual lens already attached), Chrosziel mattebox, and other equipment. I am still planning the case out, hence the reason for the empty spaces. Note how much space the camera takes if you want to travel fully assembled.

I don't have the on-board microphone attached because I have a seperate audio bag with boompole and shotgun microphone. The on-board microphone is easy to install anyway.

The way I have the camera positioned allows me to move the case vertically, on its wheels, with the weight placed on the shoulder mount end. The 1650 comes with wheels. Even if I do carry the 1650 more like a suitcase, the viewfinder does not sit on the floor at all. The foam block supporting the camera is too thick.

The narrow gap above the camera is where I keep my 4X4 filters and french flag.

Pelican 1650 Case (http://www.commandnotfound.com/images/forum/xl2case.jpg)

I just ordered a Zero Halliburton 129c hard case for the XL2 and extra goodies. Pretty much the same size as the Pelican 1650 with custom cutted foams but in aluminum.

I prefer disassembling the body, viewfinder and lens whenever transporting it. If the case takes a serious hit and the lens is mounted on the XL2, it can put unwanted stress on the lens mount. I wouldn't want to end up with an alignment problem. When the lens is removed, it is more secure. Anyway I will always use 2 lenses so I will be switching between them a lot anyway and cannot anticipate which lens I will need next, so I prefer having both lenses sit snuggly by themselves in the case. Same goes for both the CRT and LCD viewfinders.

I like the look of the pelican 1650. Affordable price too. Where do you buy the padded dividers?

Zero Halliburton... great cases. I have a "diplomats briefcase" that was a limited edition in anodized burgundy alluminum. Never fails to get comments. I also happen to know that Halliburton cases are the most stolen cases in air travel. Nothing says "Expensive contents" like a Zero Halliburton.

In that regard, I knew a photographer who used to label his camera case "Surgical Specimen Samples" to discourage people from messing with his gear. 'Course, this was in the pre-aids days, I doubt you could travel with a case labled as such nowadays. (ALthough a simple BIO-HAZARD label might do the trick)

I had a buddy who used to ship his lighting gear in large aluminum cases. He stenciled "Plumbing Parts Samples" on the outside....never had any problems with theft.

dave

Yeah the bio-hazard label is indeed a neat solution. I agree that those cases, although made to handle a lifetime of abuse, look like they're carrying an expensive stack of diamonds or something similar.

The best precaution to take, other than insuring the camera, is to put the used tapes in an other inexpensive looking bag. That way if the XL2 gets stolen, your footage won't.

Kevin, when you purchase a Pelican case you have the option of buying one with foam or with padded dividers. Look no further than DVInfo's own sponsers to buy Pelican or any other kind of case and supplies for your camera. Click on the link here (http://www.dvinfo.net/sponsors/index.php) for where to buy.

I just bought a Pelican here in Palo Alto. I had to have it for a flight tomorrow.

I took my camera in, and looked at the 1650, and the 1620. Curiously, they had two versions of each. The Foam padded versions, and the adjustable divider versions. The divider versions, were actually DEEPER than the foam versions. I laid them side by side to be sure.

I wound up buying the divider version of the 1620. Took it home, and dissassembled the xl2. I have the body, 16x lens, BOTH the color and BW viefinders, assorted adapters, batteries, microphones and cables all tightly strapped in. I even took the greay foam "box" out of the case, and put egg crate padding between the lined case and the wall of the box to give it extra padding against the sides.

Looks snug and safe. Now then, I went to buy a lock for it, and saw the "TSA Approved" airline locks "No MORE cut LOCKS"

WTF? I haven't flown with locked luggage in a while, are they cutting them off now? This version allows them to use a MASTER key to unlock and inspect it... whats the point in that once it's gone from the desk?

Am I missing something here? Can I just open it when I check in, and lock it in front of the clerk?

An answer before the early morning flight would be appreciated team.

R

You might have already taken off, but I'll answer anyways.

Yes, it's now part of airline security. Once you check in and get your ticket, you have to take your checked luggage to a security area, where the bag is sent through an X-Ray machine. If they see something suspicious in your bag, they won't hesitate to cut the lock. After they do it, they slip a paper note inside your bag, letting you know that they've cut your lock and searched inside. This has happened to a couple of friends of mine.

It's been about 6 months since I've flown anywhere, so it might be a little different now. But if I were you, I'd still watch out for my lock!

I can't decide between the pelican 1620 and the 1650. The 1650 is cheaper from B&H and looks fine. Does the 1620 have anything else that this doesn't to warrent a higher price tag?

Never noticed the price difference before, thought the 1650 would be more expensive. According to B&H Photo specifications for the 1650 is:

Exterior: 31.5 x 20.8 x 11.5" (800 x 528 x 292mm) (LWD)
Interior: 29 x 18 x 10.5" (736.6 x 457 x 266.7mm) (LWD)

While the 1620 is:

Exterior: 24-5/8 x 19-5/8 x 14" (622 x 495 x 355.6mm) (LWD)
Interior: 22-1/4 x 17-1/8 x 12-5/8" (614.6 x 431 x 317mm) (LWD)

Both come with wheels and a handle to roll the case as an option. However, the 1620 appears to have a longer retractable handle.

Go with the 1620 if you need a case with more depth, like the retractable handle, and want the case to be slightly lighter at 22 lbs.

The 1650 if you need more length in a case, but is heavier at 30 lbs. Otherwise, they're both very similar.

I dropped my girlfriend off at the airport recently and I was thinking about how 9-11 has changed our lives. No loitering at all anywhere near the check-in lines, for example, and I had to move my car promptly under orders from one of many security guards. Also noticed all the heavy barriers standing in the way of the once open walkways to prevent any vehicles from careening out of control into the airport proper.

And now cut locks? *sigh*

Anyone have any problems with their XL2s themselves with airport security?

Thanks Christopher, might go for the 1620 then.

Are you not allowed to take a camera onboard with you to put in the above compartment? They allow a certain weight right? Surely better than leaving the case somewhere you don't know. I guess it depends on overall size.

Hi again fellas. Last time I'm gonna bug anyone about cases but I need a definite one out of either the pelican 1620 or the
Porta Brace CTC-2 Traveler Camera Case which is here:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=152653&is=REG

i spoke to the salesman on the phone at B&H and he said it was a good bag but now I'm trying to decide which of the two to get.

The Pelican does look great with its dividers and all, and would be suitable for flying with. I am going away to japan in January.

The porta brace looks much better for carrying around, however my concern lies with the fact that it screams "hello there's a camcorder in here" which means I'll worry if it goes into storage. So will this fit in an above compartment?

Overall out of these two which would be the best to go for? As always your help would be much appreciated.

Kev

Okay, Here I am in Houston, shooting a documentary.

Regarding my flight in from San Jose. I took two locks with me. One heavy duty padlock, and one "luggage combination, TSA approved" padlock. You could probably cut it with garden shears...

Anyway, I weighed in and asked the attendant if I could lock the case. SHe said "Let me see if they want to X-ray it" then she grabbed it, and sent it through the conveyor belt. I stepped aside, as she was VERY busy, After about ten minutes, she looked up and said "Oh, let me check on your bag." She dissapeared, then stuck her head out and gave me the "Thumbs up". I asked "Can I lock it?" . SHe said "OH! I thought you did lock it. She reached across the counter, grabbed the heavy padlock and dissapeared. SHe came out and said "I caught it just in time, it's locked.'

I had a layover in Phoenix, with a change of planes.

I got to Houston, and the case was still locked with the padlock.

I am using the Pelican 1620 with the grey dividers in it. I have really grown to like this arrangement over the piick and pluck foam padding. I am able to reconfigure and reorder the packing as I need it durring the week.

The camera and all the accessories in the box came to just under fifty pounds. WHich was the maximum weight for one piece of luggage on the American West Flight.

For what it's worth, as an experiment. I also put a tape with footage in my camera case, and one in my carry-on to test the effects of x-rays on the tapes. Both cases were x-rayd with the exposed tapes in them.

No damage to either of the tapes.

Hope this helps others with their travel plans.

thanks that does help a bit, the pelican certainly sounds worthwhile. i still can't decide though. the other bag works out cheaper to ship for me also. it looks like its well padded enough too , hmmm

:/

For my piece of mind... If the case is out of sight, I want it to be waterproof and crush proof. I have visions (nightmares) of a luggage handler dropping it off of a transport. I feel more comfortable with the camera in a Pelican or similar hard case.

Thanks. Did you find it easy to carry around with you off the plane? I know it has a handle too though.

If I go for this then should I get silica gel too? i will likely get a peli-lock also

It is too big to carry on board. It is larger than the accepted carry-on size.

Since the case weighed in at just under 50 pounds, I used the extended handle, threw my carryon on top of it, and used it as a dolly to wheel through the airport. It's got handles on three sides, so you can pick it up any way you like. At fifty pounds, its not something I would carry by the handle any longer than necessary. That's why its got wheels.

You should be able to go to a good photo supply store, and "test drive" one. That's what I did.

Trouble is I'm in the UK and nowhere nearby sells them. I have it in my shopping cart now and I'm a click away from purchasing it. I just wondered if its good to drag all over town with me, wherever i visit.

EDIT: sod it I'll get the pelican. People seems happy with it here. Just hope i don't wear out the wheels :)

Kevin,

It's a solid piece of gear. Well made and worth the price. If it's a hard case you want, it's top notch. You won't regret it.
An you wont wear out the wheels.

Hey Richard, that's good to know that the XL2 and Pelican case held up during the trip. I had to pick my girlfriend up recently and when we were at the baggage claim I saw more than a few suitcases and bags come tumbling violently down the chute. We were all wincing from the noise and sight.

Did you have your camera assembled in the case? Think you could show us a photo of your setup? I'm always curious to see how else I can arrange things, especially with the padded dividers.

Kevin, unless you intend on travling with your XL2 as a carry-on, I wouldn't go with a soft case. I think you'll like the Pelican. In their marketing brochures, there's a photo with a train of Pelican cases roped together and trailing a kayak somewhere in the Arctic. Apparently they float and can withstand the subzero temperatures.

Thanks fellas. I will get some foam blocks as well as padded dividers. I found a set of 4. I think putting them in some fabric is a really good idea. Are they easy to cut?

Do you mean the foam or the fabric? Pelican foam comes prescored so its easy to seperate into blocks, but if you don't already have some then you'll have to shop around. Check photographic supplies, art stores, or do a search for "foam" here on this forum. I remember some users finding good alternatives to the Pelican foam.

I went to a crafts store, and purchased some gray fabric, looking for material that wouldn't be too hard to fold or cut yet was smooth and clean enough against equipment. From there I used a tube of Unique Stitch - essentially fabric glue - and simply wrapped the foam in the fabric gift-wrap style. If you can wrap a gift, you can do this.

But it depends on how elaborate you want to get. You could just get old clothing, like a cotton t-shirt, or just place the foam as is.

Here is a photo of the supplies I used: Foam Block Supplies (http://www.commandnotfound.com/images/forum/supplies.jpg).

The Elmers Craft Bond spray can you see there is spray on adhesive for the foam blocks. Sometimes I glued pieces together to get the right shape before wrapping them in foam.

Here is a photo of the finished product (reposted from earlier in the thread): Pelican 1650 & XL2 (http://www.commandnotfound.com/images/forum/xl2blocks.jpg).

This is what I was going to get:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=cart&A=details&Q=&sku=213482&is=REG

Are they suitable?

What I meant was is it easy to cut sizes. From the pic they look like they need to be tailor cut. I was also going to get some fabric for them, based on the photo I saw of yours a few posts back

I'm on the road, and about to go out on a shoot this morning, so I am unable to post any pictures.

I have been dissassembling the Camera to pack it. Of course, this allows for more configurations. I plan to organize the dividers to allow the unit to pack assembled, with the double battery pack attached as well. That is how I use to pack the XL1 I worked with, in a foam box. I was uncertain about the divider solution, as I felt it wouldn't be "tight" enough at first. I have since come to prefer the dividers over the foam.

For cutting foam, I reccomend using an electric carving knife. This cuts absolutely smooth edges, and allows for cutting complex curves and angles. This is an old trick I learned back in my theatre days. (No, don't ask how long ago that was.)

I've found a strange little tip about cutting foam. Apparently you wet it, then ring it out and place it in the freezer. Next day take it out and it is just soft enough to cut smoothly. It says not to place it in the freezer when it is soaking or else next day it will be like a brick :)

I got hit today with a £75 custom charge from DHL for my Pelican 1620 and extra bits. Thanks for the recommendation but I don't think I'll be using B&H again. I have to wait until wednesday to get my stuff as they had to re-deliver :/

I'm having a bit of a tough time sorting out my pelican 1620 and padded dividers - they're a real pain to move around due to sticking so much but the main problem is that i'm concerned about the accessories and camera moving up and down in the box. the top layer supplied is no good to me as the height of the camera prevents me from resting it on top (even without viewfinder attatched). So can I lay the camera on its side, enabling me to put the upper tray on top of it? Looking at y set up it works out better this way, making for an all round tighter fit, but Is it a good idea to keep it on its side during travel or is it best to keep it standing up?

Thanks everyone,

Kev

p.s. i have foam blocks too which i intend to cut to size and put in fabric and then place around the XL2.

Oh and my blocks are odd looking - like they're made up of loads of squares. looks tricky to cut, i hope they don't fall apart.

What would be cool is to get a huge sheet of microfiber cloth to cover the foam. Before I'd do that though, I'd have to try the foam myself and see if I find the amount of dust too objectionable.

I put the body of the camera off to one short side, in a "slot". Then I take two of the larger dividers, and use them to strap the camera down. I stick one side of the divider halfway down the edge of the slot, loop it over the top of the camera, then velcro it to the opposite side. Nice and snug. The viewfinders likewise sit in slots next to it, also velcro'd down in place. The tray sits on top of this, full of odds and ends. All very snug.

Guys, I recently bought foam rubber (actually probably polyurethane foam) from an Ebay seller, "e8ayboy," whose slabs are not pick-&-pluck, but new & high quality.

He lives about 20 minutes from my house, so I drove over to his photography studio to see what he had (& thus didn't pay any shipping). He raised the tailgate of his minivan, which was full of brand-new, dense grey foam slabs. For $60, I bought:

8 slabs @ 19"x16"x3"
4 @ 15"x13"x3"
4 @ 12"x2"x2"

I just now searched under his user name--he's always selling this stuff. He usually has "Buy It Now" prices--no competitive bidding.

FWIW, my Ebay ID is "johnsandel"--just so you don't think I'm shilling for this guy. He just gave me a great deal.

JS

hi richard, do you have any pics you can show me of your set up please? i'll try to post some of mine soon. I only used one of my leftover dividers and placed it up against the wall so that the top of the cam - the fitting for the viewfinder rests a bit more snugly while it is on its side. i was thinking of trying to shape the foam blocks to place over the top of the cam but it might be tricky to shape them as the spaces around it are different shapes when i do it this way.

I notice the camera gets very cold in the pelican case. Before shooting should I let it warm to the environment before shooting?

Looking at your set up it works out better this way, making for an all round tighter fit, but is it a good idea to keep it on its side during travel or is it best to keep it standing up?

Kevin, I share the same concerns when it comes to transporting the case. I can move the blocks and camera around though according to the way the case will be carried. Right now, it's set up so that I can move the case on its wheels, vertically, so the camera will be standing on the shoulder pad.

If I flip the camera the other way, and carry the Pelican case like a suitcase, then the camera will be resting on the MiniDV door end, the way it was shipped in the original Canon boxes.

For longer trips, I plan on taking the camera apart and securing it the way Richard described.

I was going for versatility. I even attached velcro strips to the foam blocks so that they will stay in place against the Pelican divider walls.

Will the Kata CCC-1111 fit the XL2? I'm looking at getting another case (soft)

or

CCC-101

Thanks Richard for the help.

If there's a chance for condensation to develop, then I think that's a good idea to let it warm up gradually. Here where I live, that's hardly a problem. I imagine it is up in the UK.

The humidity here is what bothers me the most. I have to ensure a steady supply of silica gel packets is always in the case and with equipment.