I'm going to have to assume that the HC1000 has a little three-position slider like its forefathers. This is marked Auto lock, then -, then Hold.

In the auto lock position everything's on automatic except the focus. You can still zoom of course and use the backlight and spotlight modes.

If you slide that slider to the middle position it *locks in* the auto settings the camera has chosen at that precise moment. It's locked the w'bal, s'speed and aperture but now allows you to vary any one or all of them.

If you then slide it to Hold it disables the buttons that give you access to these parameters - just like the hold button on a Walkman that disables the transport controls so you can skateboard without changing track.

To ask the camera for new advice, simply go back to Auto lock and then immediately back to the centre position. There, you've locked in a whole set of new parameters.

tom.

It is 2-position. Either ON or OFF. No HOLD.

I don't think I've ever tried setting my camera for AUTO mode and then using the AUTO LOCK because when the camera is in MANUAL, AUTO LOCK->ON switches it to AUTO. AUTO LOCK->OFF switches it back to your original MANUAL settings. I will try setting the camera to auto in the menus and then switching AUTO LOCK to ON. This should lock what the camera has selected.

The HOLD setting is not there because there are hardly any manual buttons on the HC1000 to begin with.

I'm beginning to wonder if you bought the right cam. : -) An FX1 sounds right up your street Steve.

I'm beginning to wonder if you bought the right cam. : -) An FX1 sounds right up your street Steve.

My alley is in the poor part of town.

And besides, for all that HDV delivers, it's long GOP encoding is frightful. At 1080i it's 15 frames per GOP! That's 1/2 second that is lost everytime you have a a glitch on the tape!

I really like that there is a button to turn on and off the backlight for the LCD on the HC1000. I find I do not need a LCD hood yet because of it. It's right there on the edge of the screen, too! I was outside in very bright sunlight and was having trouble making out what I was looking at when I turned off the backlight and used the sunlight to light the screen!

We shot on two seperate nights the same singer with the HC1000. "Very nice" is all I have to say. I will have to post clips but I am homeless in this vast cyberland.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/redirect-to-external-url/ref=mt_mo_view_36507/104-5830049-2459951?path=http%3A//media-server.amazon.com/exec/drm/digital/moleproxy.cgi%3Fname%3DU29ueSBEQ1JIQzEwMDAgTWluaURWIERpZ2l0YWwgSGFuZHljYW0gQ2FtY29yZGVyIE1hbnVhbA%3D %3D%26file%3DTUFOVUFMMDAwMDU0OTEwLnBkZg%3D%3D&append-uid=no

Thanks Stephen, I'm turning this thread into a "sticky" so it will appear at the top of the page.

Thanks Stephen, I'm turning this thread into a "sticky" so it will appear at the top of the page.

I knew you would. :)

Can you mix what you record with higher rez audio and then run it through Click To DVD or are you stuck with what you recorded onto tape? I'm guessing this mic won't be worth getting, if SONY doesn't let you add 48kHz audio to it later.

Is there any other way to extract 4-channel audio from a 12-bit DV audio stream or does the DV standard only consider it 2-channel, with an overdub mix on all other software out there?

Hello Everybody!
This is my 1st time posting, been a reader for a while but this time I could use some feedback. I have the opportunity to purchase a HC1000 that's basically only been looked at, not even used for about $500 less than the B&H price. I read a review on camcorderinfo.net and they slammed it pretty hard, mainly on the touchscreen issue, but I'm sure many of you read they're review. I've been working on a couple projects borrowing a friends GL2, would like to get a cam to finish up a reality-documentry, and also use for other projects like it. My friend who has the GL2 and I have thought about teaming up to offer low budget event coverage to pay the bills. I figured the camera would be alot less intrusive that my friends GL2, and would make a good B CAM any work for hire we do. Anybody have any advice if the HC1000 at that price is a good way for me to go?

Hi Jay and welcome to DVinfo! What is the price for the HC-1000? We have discussed it here on and off, and it seems to have its plusses and minuses. Just off the top of my head....

GOOD:
Real, high quality 16:9
Nice form factor

BAD:
Manual controls moved to touchscreen
LCD panel smaller than TRV-950/PDX-10
Uses small internal battery

Steve Finton is the only regular around here that I know who has an HC-1000. Maybe he'll offer an opinion. Here are some of his posts:

http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/search.php?searchid=68476

GOOD:
Real, high quality 16:9
Nice form factor

BAD:
Manual controls moved to touchscreen
LCD panel smaller than TRV-950/PDX-10
Uses small internal battery



It is also a 1-CCD camera, right?


Carlos

It is also a 1-CCD camera, right?


Carlos
I think the hc1000 has the same or similar ccd's as the pdx-10
The footage this camera will take should be fantastic.

The HC-1000 has the same three 1/4.7" CCD's and optics as the TRV-950 and PDX-10. It improved over the TRV-950 by offering the same hi-res 16:9 mode as the PDX-10 (the TRV-950 was intentionally crippled in firmware to produce lower quality 16:9). This was a step in the right direction, but unfortunately Sony made the HC-1000 more "consumery" with an internal battery of limited capacity, a smaller touchscreen, and elimation of physical controls.

Here's some more info from B&H's website, their current price is $1,400. Jay, if you can buy one in "like new" condition for $900 (as you suggest) then it might be worth considering as long as this limitations don't bother you.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=338800&is=REG&addedTroughType=search

I just purchased a HC1000 after tons of research.

First day out...videotaped a scene on local boardwalk along the bay.

When came back, found that there was a distracting spiral effect throughout.

It looks something like old-fashioned barbershop poles.

Colors--distinct pink/purplish hue. Other color--bluish, green.

It's primary found on thin vertical objects...especially poles--like sign and lamp posts along the boardwalk, the ships' masts. Plus other vertical segments. Not just on boardwalk...but on store fronts.

(Tried it out in another location (ocean scene) no problem. Tried again two days later, same problem. Called Sony. Sony recommended resetting camera. That didn't help at all.)

At first I thought it was on the places where sunlight most shined. But...not sure. It seems like it's where there's a streak of light along a darker area...like where there's a lamp post that is reflecting light...but is dark in color.

I'm very concerned because I have not read about the problem on various forums. So, I don't know if it's the result of a defective camera that needs to be returned or fixed. Or is there some principle at work...that requires adjustment...when shooting, composing shot, settings, editing, or other.

On another forum, I was asked how I was viewing. Below are more details. The flickering appeared on all my TV monitors. Plus when outputting from computer program (after capturing/saving clip) to TV set.

I've tried making adjustments with editing program (Premiere)...but so far no success.

I would GREATLY!!! appreciate any ideas on how to best proceed. I have about one more day left when I may be able to return to dealer. Then, it's a question of sending it back to Sony. So, that's why I hope others may share their experiences...ideas...on solutions.

THANKS in advance for any suggestions/insights.

Sandra




VIEWED ON

9" Panasonic PV-C921...flickering.
14 inch TV--same problem
Professional level monitor (JVC TM 55OU)--limited problem.
Computer screen (IBM P50)--some flickering...but not distracting.

WHEN OUTPUT segment from computer (Premiere) to TV, it also showed same level of flickering.

I know it's a drag with a brand new camera, but send it back, either for replacement or repair depending on the policy of your vendor. I can't think of any reason why you would have this problem with a good camera.

Just one other test you might try to localize the problem. Connect the camera to your computer via firewire and catch/capture as you film a little. Do you see the same problem on the direct firewire connection as you see on the tape that's recorded? This might narrow it down to a problem with the tape transport or even the tapes themselves.

Sorry, got confused with HC1, which is a 1-CCD/CMOS HDV camera.

When I bought my PDX10 at B&H I also evaluated the HC1000, but it was not as good for handling or solid looking as the PDX10.

The only one who challenged the PDX10 was the Panasonic DVC30, but it had inferior 16:9 and no XLRs at that price range.


Carlos

THANKS!!!! Boyd for taking time to consider my problem.

I believe I've made every reasonable effort to find a solution.

But...you know how it is...was reluctant to take the step of returning it.

But...this morning...reached the decision...that probably what I needed to do was exchange it...but still felt a little uncertain.

Your entry helped to give me the extra certainty and confidence.

So, that's exactly what I've proceeded to do. I called the store...and have started the process of returning/exchanging it. I know it helped when I spoke with the store representative..that I sounded certain about my decision.

I tend to be wishy...then washy.

Your entry really helped! So....much appreciation!!!

Sandra Warshaw

Thank you very much to all those who responded. I feel much better about going forward and picking up the camera.

Jay

Boyd often has good advice. Sending it back is the safe way to go.

I just had a guy, that's been in the broadcast business for 30 years, borrow one of my HC1000s for a film that he will be working on until saturday. He usually uses an XL1 but I recently filmed a short with some friends of mine and he seemed to be impressed enough by the image quality to lay his XL1 aside. It made me feel good because we've always been borrowing equipment from him.

Again, thanks to all but I have to give special thanks to Mr.Finton. That's the kinda stuff I'm trying to hear. Keep it come'n ya'll, more REAL WORLD STORIES about the HC1000 good or bad.

Jay

It's the internal battery that kills this camera stone dead for me. Panasonic made the same design error with their DX100 back in 1998, though they corrected this when the replacement MX300 came out. So how could Sony fall into the same trap?

tom.

It's the internal battery that kills this camera stone dead for me. Panasonic made the same design error with their DX100 back in 1998, though they corrected this when the replacement MX300 came out. So how could Sony fall into the same trap?

tom.

The F-Type battery that is used was for MicroMV cameras, initially. Nobody bought a MicroMV that I know of so SONY's got all these batteries laying around. From handling the camera, I don't think an external battery would have thrown off its balance.

I get 135mins with the LCD open and I've heard people say that the Panasonic GS400 DU21 battery only lasts up to 90mins with the LCD open. I think that the LCD itself has something to do with the power drain difference. The GS400 has a 3.5' and the HC1000 has a 2.5".

Hi Jay,

I was considering purchasing a brand new/factory sealed HC1000 (at a lesser price) over e-bay from sellers that look dependable. One even offered a money-back guarantee.

So, will share some information that influenced my decision.

I spoke with SONY twice and was informed...

The warranty ONLY applies to SONY cameras purchased from a dealer.
The Warranty is confusing...and seems to imply it would apply to a second owner. But they were ADAMANT that it will not. (I think it's the "as is" part of the warranty that means it won't apply to second buyers.)

Plus, MACK WARRANTY can only be purchased for a camera bought from a dealer. But, (go figure), you can have an already-purchased MACK WARRANTY transferred to a second buyer...for a fee.

I know it's a BIG difference in price...and the $900 model may be problem-free.

Realize there are always a lot of factors that go into a decision...

Also not sure if this info applies to your situation...or if the purchase has been made. But wanted to share it...in case helpful.


Good luck with your HC1000. I look forward to hearing how you like it.

Sandra

PS. As you might have read...mine did arrive with problems. So far, B&H has been great about exchanging it. At least...it's on its way back to them...even as we speak. I'll keep you posted. AND...I'm assuming you'll have better luck getting a good camera. So, not intending to burst your bubble... AND I TOTALLY understand if it works better to purchase the $900 model.

Is the HC1000 the same as the HC1?

Anyhow, I read that same review that slammed it. Boyd's points are on the money, the cons are reasons why Sony shot itself in the foot.

That and that HDV is unusable to pro applications right now because of the mpeg2. BUT I HOPE (Please, please, please) solutions to that come out at the end of the year.

I'm still shooting miniDV/DVCAM because of the HDV cons. When it looks like the HDV cons may be fixed, the DVX2000 on P2 may be out and that may be the one to get.

I agree, getting away from tape is the way to go. But a 60 minute, 13 gB tape for a couple of dollars is a whole world away from solid state memory. Prices will drop, but for now, tape is king.

Is the HC1000 the same as the HC1?

Nope, not even close. Thanks Sony for giving us such confusing model numbers! ;-)

The HC-1000 is a repackaging of the TRV-950. It has three 1/4.7" CCD's and doesn't shoot HDV. The HC1 is a small single chip HDV camera.

I was just reading a thread about the HC-1 where Stu Holmes mentioned that you can't really control exposure and shutter speed manually, and this was similar to the HC-1000. So I looked at the PDF of the HC-1000 manual and was surprised to find this was true. I didn't know that!

Evidently if you set manual shutter speed you can't control iris or gain manually. If you choose manual exposure control you can't choose the shutter speed. It's really too bad the way Sony has "dumbed down" this camera in the progression from TRV-900 to TRV-950 to HC-1000, but that may very well be what consumers want.

I've shot out in the sun with an NDx8 screw-in filter and needed to raise the shutter speed to get a good exposure.


In a recent entry, the NDx8 filter was recommended to reduce glare.

Which other ones would be good choices to reduce glare with the HC1000 (or companion cameras)?

My new HC1000 is on the way...and would like to be prepared to address the documented exposure challenges...described here.

I realize there are articles (web and otherwise) about best lenses for specific uses. But, continue to find I learn more from the entries here...from people using the specific camera (HC1000)(and its companions) that I'm purchasing.

Thanks in advance for taking time to respond. ALL responses help.... to understand potential, limitations and best ways to meet challenges of the camera.

Actually ND filters don't do anything to reduce glare, they just reduce the amount of light coming into the camera. That quote of mine was with regard to shooting in bright sunlight without having to use a high shutter speed.

Acutally I just learned that the HC-1000 doesn't seem to have a full manual mode like the TRV-950 or PDX-10 - see http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showpost.php?p=341610&postcount=16. Having a few ND filters might come in handy, but actually I'd suggest getting your hands on the camera first and learning what it's capable of.

The 37mm filters are inexpensive and widely available if and when you need them. I got mine filters at a local Ritz Camera store.

Interesting that Sony worldwide has just taken a huge hit on profitability, with hundreds laid off and share prices on the tumble. But when you look at what's happened since 1998 - TRV900, 950, 1000, you get the idea that someone in charge isn't paying attention, and that in fact consumers do know their onions, and have gone elsewhere to buy.

Fine to make a dumbed-down HC1000, just don't abandon the ''compact VX2100'' market, Sony. Folk like us with the VX or PD might well be wanting a more compact cam for backup, unattended recording, holidays and so on. The TRV900 was just that camera, but if you look through the Sony catalogue now there's this huge void between the FX1 and the HC1000.

Panasonic have been quick to answer the call, and their proliferation of three-chippers has earned them a deserved following. Sony's arrogance led them into MicroMV fields, and their clinging to ATRAC rather than accepting the lesser MP3 has let Apple trounce them with impunity. It's like the impala killing the panther.

tom.

Boyd's right, the NDs only soak light. Hopefully in a neutral way, hence the name. I wouldn't have thought them desirable or necessary with the HC1000 for a variety of reasons, and here goes.

The 1000 will have two or three internal NDs that float about with impunity and with no direct control from the operator. I'm sure Sony will have considered the Antartica trip, and added enough ND and shutter speeding to cover all lighting eventualities.

And internal ND is the place to have it funnily enough. The very short focal lengths on modern camcorders (especially when used with much needed wide-angle converters) means that filters fitted in front of the zoom bring with them lots of opportunity for flare, dist, fingerprints, and these find themselves being recorded onto tape with the huge dof.

Internal filtering is the cheap way to go and at the same time is safe from any of these failings. The HC1000's spec indicated that it's not really aimed at the filter adding, exposure tweaking, lens adding crowd. It's just designed to do all the photographic calculations for you, while you get on with pointing it in the right direction

tom.

WHY TRYING TO FIGURE OUT WHICH IF ANY ND FILTERS MAY BENEFIT HC1000... PRIOR TO ARRIVAL OF CAMERA

My reason for trying to figure out which (if any) ND filters could help compensate for the HC1000's limitations is that my new HC1000 will arrive tomorrow or the day after...

...and then I only have seven days to try out the camera to determine if it's okay (based on store's return/exchange policy).

I live in a rural area where 37mm lenses aren't available at local stores...
so I'll be needing to order them from out of area.

But I figured if I ordered one (or several) tomorrow...it could arrive in time for me to try out with camera...before I needed to determine if the HC1000 was okay.

Trying not to make a long entry...longer... Some of my problems with the first HC1000 were described in other entry "Flickering/shimmering/spiraling problems w new HC1000."

Why interest in ND FILTERS? I believe that overexposure did NOT cause the problem...but I suspect that overexposure might have contributed. So, I want to be ready...to possibly compensate for problem...in case problem reappears.

Of course...I hope it doesn't!

But you know Murphy's law...if I order the ND filters...I won't need them. But...naturally...if I don't order them...they would be the perfect fix.

So...my interest in the ND filters is that I'm hoping they can help reduce the problem if it does appear.

Thanks again for input! Haven't been able to find anything like it on other forums!

If the camera does veer on the side of over-exposure Sandra (and of course production tolerances mean that all cameras veer one side or the other to a lesser or greater extent) then adding NDs up front won't help at all. Why? because the camera will simply assume it's got darker out there and open the aperture to compensate - bringing you back to square one.

The only way around this is to use the AE shift feature (if the camera has such a thing) or even the spotlight mode is worth a try. Best way of course is to be in full manual control of the gain, aperture, shutter speed and ND filters, but you have to get to the PD170 before independence from the automation is truely yours.

tom.

The only way around this is to use the AE shift feature (if the camera has such a thing)...

Yes, it does have AE Shift.

I was just reading a thread about the HC-1 where Stu Holmes mentioned that you can't really control exposure and shutter speed manually, and this was similar to the HC-1000. So I looked at the PDF of the HC-1000 manual and was surprised to find this was true. I didn't know that!

Evidently if you set manual shutter speed you can't control iris or gain manually. If you choose manual exposure control you can't choose the shutter speed. It's really too bad the way Sony has "dumbed down" this camera in the progression from TRV-900 to TRV-950 to HC-1000, but that may very well be what consumers want.

Poppycock! When you are in Manual Exposure, Shutter is greyed-out. Select Auto Exposure, then go to shutter and select your manual shutter speed. Then Go back to Exposure and select Manual Exposure, this will lock you manual Shutter setting and lets you change exposure manually afterwards.

Oh, OK. The manual didn't make that clear. In fact, they've changed the format of the manual from the VX-2000, TRV-950 and PDX-10 manuals which are pretty similar. Those manuals have a section on using manual controls, but the HC-1000 only seems to mention these adjustments in the section about using the menus at the end. I looked pretty quickly at the PDF though, so maybe I missed that part?

Oh, OK. The manual didn't make that clear. In fact, they've changed the format of the manual from the VX-2000, TRV-950 and PDX-10 manuals which are pretty similar. Those manuals have a section on using manual controls, but the HC-1000 only seems to mention these adjustments in the section about using the menus at the end. I looked pretty quickly at the PDF though, so maybe I missed that part?

I believe it is called Shutter Priority.

This is what confuses me - page 59 in the manual:

-------------
The shutter speed cannot be changed while you are using the following functions:

- Flexible spot meter
- Exposure
--------------

But you're saying that the shutter speed can first be set, then you can go into manual exposure mode and that speed will stay in effect while you adjust the iris/ND setting? Actually, that's the same as the VX-2000 and PDX-10, but it's implemented a little differently with real buttons and wheels instead of the touch screen.

Hi Boyd / Steve

Yep I think (if i may say so !) Boyd misquoted me slightly ther.
what i actually said about the HC1000 / HC1 was that when you fix the shutter speed and then change the exposure manually (which of course you can do), you can't for all EV values, change ONLY aperture or ONLY the gain.
It may well be in, say, middling light levels that when you change the exposure down, that the camera will be at 0db gain anyway, and so will just close the lens 1 stop, so yep that's in effect direct control of the aperture and the shutter speed BUT if light levels fall, say, and you manually increase exposure then you get to a point where the camera is at max.aperture and will have to go to +3dB gain. so that's the limitation really.

- It does have 'shutter priority' mode (to draw a 35mm phrasing analogy) but it wouldve been nice if Sony had given us 'aperture priority' mode too, independent of gain.

Quite why on the A1 Sony still haven't given the user the aperture, gain in-LCD during shooting i don't know. I can see their 'product positioning' guys saying "Oh HC1 is consumer camera so let's not give them that feature" but omitting it for A1 is a bit odd.

Having said that i love my HC1000 to bits - it's a great camera and very similar, functionally, to the HC1 (which i'm getting as soon as i get back to a PAL country !)

rgds

This is what confuses me - page 59 in the manual:

-------------
The shutter speed cannot be changed while you are using the following functions:

- Flexible spot meter
- Exposure
--------------

But you're saying that the shutter speed can first be set, then you can go into manual exposure mode and that speed will stay in effect while you adjust the iris/ND setting? Actually, that's the same as the VX-2000 and PDX-10, but it's implemented a little differently with real buttons and wheels instead of the touch screen.

That should've read Manual Exposure, in the manual. Once you go to Auto Exposure, shutter can be adjusted manually. Shutter is something you don't want to ride, anyway. The change in shutter speed over time while you are recording definitely registers as a glitch on the screen and would not be something I would want to be doing while I am recording. I set it for what I am doing and then forget it.

UPDATE:

Have put samples on web page
in order to illustrate problem...
http://www.sonic.net/~stepnext/SAMPLES/indexSO.html

The magnified version is very very very magnified...and does not appear that large in image.
_______
Here are current conclusions/observations/theories

BACKGROUND

1. The problem did appear in second camera.

2. I did find ways to limit it (but not eliminate)
(decreasing sharpness while shooting/blurring in postproduction/)

3. I believe (not sure) that the problem is more common than reported. At least I believe that the same problem was described in an archive here. I just found it this week...after returning first camera.
__________________
http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/archive/index.php/t-3382.html

SOMEONE ELSE's ENTRY ABOUT SONY 950:
"I examined my tape in full, both on the camcorder viewing screen and on my TV and found that the 30 minutes of tape I had shot were filled with vertical bands, white or multicolored, which I later learned were the vertical smear problem"
________________
4. But I also have come to believe it doesn't ultimately cause difficulty for most production goals. (It doesn't appear in most mediums...such as computer monitor, VHS dub.)

5. I just contacted a local television station....because that's the final destination of my current project. The representative said he's very familiar with the problem and has found it doesn't cause problems with airing on our local TV stations. (Our standards are lower than many larger areas.)

He also told me it's common in most prosumer cameras and is eliminated in higher end cameras (which I can't afford). Though, I'm currently researching to find out if some other similarly priced cameras do not have problem.

All of these problems did get me thinking that the GS400 may have been a better choice.

DECISIONS...DECISIONS...THE TIME HAS COME...


Tomorrow is the last day to decide (based on exchange policy of seller).

I could be wrong...it could be that I got two bad cameras..and should try to exchange this one...or even get the GS400...if that's possible.

But I'm inclined to conclude
it's time to accept that all cameras have limitations...and the SONY HC1000 while limited in this way...will meet goals for which it was purchased.

In separate entry (below), include reasons why I suspect it's a common problem...and how to mitigate it...for those interested.


PS. I freely admit I have a lot to learn. Plus, I was limited in my ability to try out the camera. In order to qualify for exchange...I was limited to 120 minutes of use with camera...and time limit of one week. So, I'm sure I have not examine every aspect...considered EVERY angle.

So, my decision...is based on best understanding...to date.

And...I realize someone on forum might offer a different perspective that would be good to consider before making final decision.

Though one big limitation is funds. At this point, I can't afford a more expensive camera. So, that's not an option.

THANKS in advance for taking time to respond.

BELOW IS BACKGROUND which I believe helps to explain why digital camcorders have trouble with lines (light lines against dark background).

And...it's what led me to believe problem is common.

FROM:

PREMIERE for MACINTOSH & WINDOWS
by Antony Bolante

"Graphic elements that look good on a progressive scan monitor display poorly on an interlaced monitor. Due to interlacing, thin horizontal lines (or patterns containing thin horizontals) appear to flicker or vibrate. If a line is thin enough, it actually disappears with every scan of its field."


[NOTE: I suspect that the spiralling colors results when the "line" disappears. But that's a guess.] (Sandra)


Anthony Bolante...continued...

"Avoid using light typefaces, thin lines, and tight patterns in images that are destined for television. If necessary, choose the Flicker Removal option in the Field Options dialog box."

'"Flicker Removal" blurs the image so that thin horizontal details don't flicker due to interlacing."
_________________

NOTE: I found it takes more than "flicker removal." I needed to use "blur" from "video effects". There are varous ones--to apply. It's a trial and error process. The first time I tried the "blur" effect, it didn't seem to work. But the "Quick Time" blur effect worked. And then others like "fast blur" helped. Yet, while the "blur" effect seems to eliminate the blur...it also diminishes sharpness/quality of image.

ALSO...decreasing "sharpen" feature in camera helps...when shooting.

I don't know Sandra, I just can't see much of a problem in those examples, although the first camera seems to exhibit it more. It would be good to know what all the camera settings were. Did you shoot in full auto mode? Did you change any of the custom presets? Try viewing the data code (should be accessed via touch screen buttons) while playing the tape. It will tell you the aperture, shutter speed, etc. Also, as you note, the sharpness setting could be an issue. Go to custom preset (I assume this camera has them?) and I would suggest turning the sharpness all the way to the minimum, it should give you a nicer image that way, or at least it does on my PDX-10.

I don't really see any of these problems on my PDX-10 which uses the same chips and sensors. BTW, I think B&H sells the HC-1000 for $1,400 and the PDX-10 for $1,600 (with rebate). If you can exchange I think the additional $200 would be very well spent considering all the additional features it has.

But I don't think the problem is related to vertical smear at all. That would only happen on bright white areas in extreme conditions. Also, since you only see the problem on your TV screen... how is the camera connected to the TV? Are you using the composite (RCA) jacks? That's a very poor quality connection and shouldn't be a basis for quality decisions. Can your friend at the TV station hook the camera up or play the tape on a good monitor?

Sorry, you've got me stumped here!

You wouldn't be talking to us at all, if you had a progressive scan camera. :)

THIS FORUM IS A REAL LIFE-SAVER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

SHORT VERSION
BTW, I think B&H sells the HC-1000 for $1,400 and the PDX-10 for $1,600 (with rebate). If you can exchange I think the additional $200 would be very well spent considering all the additional features it has.
THANK YOU!!! BOYD...AND ALL WHO MAKE THIS FORUM POSSIBLE!!!!!

Posting my concerns here...helped me reach a decision...I know I could not have reached without this GREAT input.

I am returning the HC1000.

I am now SERIOUSLY considering the PDX10.

Thanks for telling me about the rebate.

That makes the PDX-10 an option.

They are currently out of stock...at B&H...but said they expect to get them in week (although the price has gone up.)

Today, I've been reading about it in reviews (here and elsewhere) and in online articles. Sounds very very promising. In many ways! For example, the XLR adaptor will actually save me money...since my current XLR adaptor is not compatible with the HC1000

And that great review on this forum by Ignacio Rodríguez de Rementería...
and that article http://www.ukriversguidebook.co.uk/maranon.htm
about a freelance videographer who who used a PDX-10 to film a South African expedition down the Amazon River in Peru...certainly demonstrate its many strengths...while documenting its limitations...realistically.

LONGER VERSION...CONCERNING OTHER QUESTIONS

As to your questions about settings...I tried all variations that I'm aware of...and they failed to deliver a satisfactory image.

But I don't think the problem is related to vertical smear at all. That would only happen on bright white areas in extreme conditions.

I am aware that there is a specific type of vertical smear that occurs when shooting into a very bright light. That is not the one I was referring to. I was under the impression that on at least one forum entry (described above), there was another type of vertical smear "with multi-colored bands." But I could be mistaken. (And that's the one I was referring to...so I guess I misnamed it.)

Can your friend at the TV station hook the camera up or play the tape on a good monitor?I have a professional level monitor. The problem is limited there. But, the end user will be people with a wide range of TVs...so at least want to start out with images that look good on a regular TV set.

From what you're saying...and others have written...I believe the PDX-10 will be a MUCH better match for my use/goals.
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THANKS AGAIN!!!!! for taking time to seriously consider concerns and offer solid, practical solutions.

Nice having something in common with you Sandra...if only for a little while. :(


:)

Just wondering how the HC1000 would compare to a GL2 on the video quality side of things?

It will shoot much better 16:9 because of its high resolution CCD's. No frame movie mode though.