Backpacking? Travel with a small light and inconspicuous camera that doesn't scream "STEAL ME!"
I'd go with the Sony HDV as well.

So I downloaded some video from a HC1 and it doesn't look to bad.

I priced it out and I should be able to get it for $1600-$1700 with tax, new. Which is decent, I think. I guess I will go with a HC1 unless anyone can argue with me not to get it ;)

You have a few more professional benefits with A1U. Though I have the FX1, the Prosumer version of the Sony Z1, in this case, I think you can pick up the A1U for a small difference. Therer was a $500 rebate on it that got you to $1999 at BH, but that may be gone

By the way, I may be lazy, but I think FX1 at about a foot long is a bit large to back pack around Europe. But that's just me.

Yeah I think the FX1 would be too big as well. I plan to have a day pack with my video camera and my digital rebel ( I think I'm going to bring it ) and a pocket PC. I also might take this future camera skydiving and the FX1 would be too big for that too.

I priced out the difference between the HC1 and the A1U and it's $700 CAD (that's with the $500 rebate). That's if I get it shipped to Seattle and a relative brings it over the border for me avoiding customs... Otherwise it would be even more with customs... So are the extra features worth that much?

I priced out the difference between the HC1 and the A1U and it's $700 CAD (that's with the $500 rebate). That's if I get it shipped to Seattle and a relative brings it over the border for me avoiding customs... Otherwise it would be even more with customs... So are the extra features worth that much?


If you are on a tight budget? No.
You planning on adding an external mic? Get an XLR to miniplug adapter for $20.
Otherwise, you are rocking. Not sure if you want a tripod at all (I wouldn't if I didn't have to)

I have the Z1 and you'd be amazed by how light it is. I think it weighs something like 4.4 lbs. If you do go with one of the Sony HDV cameras, the ability to shoot HDV/SD and downconvert is one feature you'll really come to appreciate down the road!

I went looking for a thread that covered differences. Here it is:

http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?t=61319&highlight=A1U+HC1

I copied this out of post 10 on that thread:

For $500, you get:

XLR inputs on an amazing audio module (at least $250)
A pretty decent microphone ($200)
Better lens hood w/ auto lens cap ($70 for the A1's lens hood)
Traditional shoe adapter (priceless)
Black Stretch
DVCAM
Peaking
B/W EVF
Full scan mode
CinemaTones
CinemaFrames
Excellent timecoding
and much, much more...

There are over 40 features that the A1 has over the HC1, making $500 a small price to pay.

However, it all depends on your needs. What do you need the camcorder for? If all you're doing is family videos, save the money and buy some accessories. If you plan on doing some indie-filmmaking, I would definetly go for the A1 as XLR will be essential

Thanks for digging up that post for me, and all the other input guys.

My friend that would be able to get the camera at cost + 10% is unable to now, so that makes the price difference a little less. So I think I just may go with the A1U seeing as I can justify spending the extra money now other than kicking myself in 6 months because I didn't get the extra features.

Now hopefully I have some relatives that are going to cross the border in the next month and then I'm set!

Now I need to figure out what batteries to get.

The HC-1 is pretty nice. I believe Douglas had mentioned something about a hack that will turn a HC-1 into a A1, features wise, not hardware.

And no, he did not give out specifics on where the link is. Do a google search is all I can say. Supposedly someone in Finland and Germany have done it.

Now, I just need to find a hack for the fx-1 to a z1.

If you are traveling, I say worry more about getting a larger battery for your camcorder, you'll never know when you'll need to record and the battery is low. Also, a power converter for your camcorder and other electrical equipments.

You'll also want a bag for the camcorder that is waterproof if you'll be backpacking throughout Europe.

Good luck, and have fun recording your trip. Check out stevengotz.com for some ideas on travel and hdv filming. His site also list some sites you can make money on HDV stock footage. You might as well make some money on your trip.

Another trip site is the intrepidberkeleyexplorer.com. Get some ideas on how to shot your travel for fun.

Thanks for the links John, I'll check them out!

My wife and I have started a weekend hobby business filming dog agility - basically people and their dogs running around an obstacle course. Speeds are comparable to filming a soccer game, and I have to pan to track the action, so using a faster shutter speed is desirable. In our area about half the events are held indoors, typically at indoor soccer fields, horse arenas, or expo centers. So the lighting isn't great, think of a high-school gymnasium and you get the idea (I’m guessing 60 lux). Of course, I also want a camcorder that can handle the same job outdoors. To make the scenario even more taxing, I'm typically filming 300-400 one minute clips a day, and need a fast cycle time between stop and start (1 second or less at times).

I've been using a Panasonic GS250 to start (we had no idea what the typical weekend gross would be, so I had to stay cheap), but the GS250 doesn't cut it indoors. Its also already in the shop, at 4 months old and about 25 hours on the heads. Indoors I'm typically running the GS250 (rated at 12 lux) wide open, 1/60th shutter, gain at +12 to +15 dB, which gathers enough light but is still a murky image.

So what's the best camera for the job? I'm fairly narrowed down to the Sony PD170 vs. FX1, and keep agonizing over the low light vs. resolution issue. I've read all the threads comparing these two cameras, but haven't seen any discussion on filming indoor action shots. I don't see myself going HD for another 2-3 years at least, but I've read the FX1 gives a higher res image even in SD mode (I'm using another camera to import, so I would stick with recording in SD). I would like to go tapeless in a year, to reduce wear and tear, so performance with a Firestore or Citidisk is important.

So here are my questions:
1) What's my better bet for a good picture, inside? The FX1 looks to be 2 stops more sensitive than the GS250, so inside maybe I could go to 1/100th and +9 dB (still wide open). The PD170, at another 1.5 stops more sensitive, would potentially let me go to 1/200th and +6 dB (or close the aperture a stop, but that’s just dreaming). So what’s better for action shots, the faster shutter speed or overall resolution? Will either camcorder get rid of the murky colors inside?

2) I assume the FX1 will give a phenomenal picture outside. What about the PD170 – everyone talks about it in low light, but what about when light isn’t an issue?

3) Any thoughts about reliability of the two cameras, especially with all the starting and stopping? Will the camera last longer if I run one continuous shoot and break the clips up while importing?

4) Anyone know of a store in the Baltimore/DC area where I can try these cameras?

And some specific questions about the FX1:
1) will the FX1 run a Firestore tapeless with the on-camera record button?

2) I’ve seen reference to a 1/2 second or 2 second delay between the action and the Firewire-out signal (at least in HD). Is this true, and does it create complications with using a Firestore? It would be horrible if I had to break for at least 2 seconds before starting the next clip.

3) I’ve read of Z1U’s (and presumably FX1’s) sometimes taking as much as 5 seconds to cycle between record stop and start. Has this bug been fixed?

4) There’s a cryptic reference to the FX1 having problems in bright light on camcorderinfo.com’s review of the Sony HC1. Anyone have any problems in full sunlight?

Thanks in advance, and sorry for the length. The community on dvinfo.net is fantastic, and I’m looking forward to your thoughts on this issue.

-Terence

The FX1 is clearly a better camera, unfortunately this doesn't help make your decision. Indoor sporting events are really going to be unforgiving on a camera if it doesn't have great light sensitivity. The FX1 isn't bad, but you won't be able to use a moderately-fast shutter with minimal gain like you could with the PD170. I have used both, and I would say that the PD170 is a full 2 stops different than the FX1. If this content will never be delivered on HD, the PD170 will do a better job for now. If you were shooting outdoor sports or independant movies where you control the light, I would tell you to get the FX1 with no hesitation. Events with minimal light not in your control are the realm of the PD170.

If they had put 1/2" CCDs in the FX1/Z1 to give it equivalent light sensitivity as the PD170, the cameras would be worth twice the price. Unfortunately, some situations require the best light sensitivity possible. Don't forget that if you zoom tight to your subject, you are reducing the light gathered by the lens since the f-stop numbers increase automatically.

The FX1 (belonging to a friend) that I used went dead and needed a new mainboard. I haven't heard much about PD/VX cameras going bad when fairly new like some FX1 stories. I think the drums always turn when the camera is on, so reliability probably won't change with stops and starts. Shutting off the camera and probably removing the tape to shoot without recording will reduce drum hours.

I don't think there is a bright light problem with the FX1. There are ND filters built into the camera that can be used in bright sun.

Outside, the PD170 looks like a decent video camera. The FX1 also looks like video, but the increased resolution in HD looks nice. It may also have a slightly better exposure range. It seems easier to keep detail both in the highlights and shadows simultaneously.

The FX1 is a superior camera largely because of better secondary features like the focus and exposure control. The flip-out monitor is also better and in a more useful location.

Thanks Marcus. Overall I guess its impressive that the FX1 is as sensitive as it is given the price. There probably isn't much they can do to improve the sensitivity of the CCDs at this point (there are methods used to improve quantum effiicency in scientific cameras, but they all require vacuums, cooling, and more power than is practical in a portable camera). So getting the sensitivity of the PD170 would require a 0.58" chip (3x the area), along with a bigger lens, which isn't going to happen at this price point. So we have to accept the compromises.

Does anyone know how widespread the FX1/Z1U motherboard failure problem is? I've read about the potential links to power spikes, and advice to only run off the battery, but I'd like to be able to plug in at times. Has there been any signs that Sony has fixed this problem in new units?

-Terence

Even though you are looking in the sub $3000 category, I HIGHLY recommend the JVC 500/5000 (or 550) cameras.

1. The BEST low light performance I've seen since...tubes... in a sub $10,000 camera.

2. If you want Firestore, the JVC's (500 and 5000, cant on a 550, ) has an option to mount (pretty much permanantly) a modified FS-3.

You might be able to find a used 500, and pay a JVC servicer to mount the Firestore, probably not exceeding $7000, with the Fuji 14:1 lens. It isnt the best lens, but does the job. Later on, you can upgrade the lens.

It'll cost more, but an almost true professional camera, XLR, excellent low light, better lens than any handycam, and shoulder-stability.

But if you are cut down between the FX1 and 170, go with the FX. You have HD capability, and might pick up a few clients with it. Not too many people I know want anything on the 170 anymore...

I love the FX1, but for the purpose you described a PD170 or VX2100 might be a better choice for now. The best reason to get an FX1 would be if you want to try to offer prints from video, which works a lot better than from any SD video camera. Can you rent or borrow an FX1 to see if it would work for your purposes before making a buying decision?

To make the scenario even more taxing, I'm typically filming 300-400 one minute clips a day, and need a fast cycle time between stop and start (1 second or less at times).

think of it as a death sentence for the tape drive... been there done that.

the drag racing and surfing that i shoot typically requires long pauses between shots, and/or a bunch of those really short shots back to back.

i would get a good used camera, but do the video recording with an fs-4 in tapeless mode... put your money into the fs-4, instead of wearing out the tape drive of a brand new camera... so you'd be getting in as cheaply as possible, then run that setup for a year or two, before thinking about stepping up to an hd format... by then the technology will be more mature, and the pricing will have dropped as well.

i assume that you are doing it to sell dvd's? have you considered re-purposing it for internet use at the same time? if you have some 'net skills, there is money to be made with advertising dog-related products, and you'll never need an hd camera to do it... how are you as a webmaster?

I've been thinking of buying the Canon XM2 .. I would just like to know if there are any other serious contenders at this price point?

A bit more and you have a Sony FX1, with true 16:9 CCD's, superb 16:9 LCD screen, better manual control, High Def option, etc. etc. Worthwhile the bit extra dough..

If you're anticipating any low light situations, with a little effort you can find a Sony PD170 for about that price. Great all around camera.
Got one off EBay a couple of months ago for 2300 that had hardly been used.

And a new VX 2100 may come in under that prices somewhere. But if you bump up about $ 400, you can get FX1 with superior imaging for about $3k at BH. Beware of lower price internet retailers... I've heard horror stories. PD or VX gets you superior lowlight performance, but FX1 gives you a lot more to work with in terms of picture quality in most situation.

Does anyone have any comments about the video cameras that record straight to DVD? Has anyone used one before that can tell me about the pros and cons???

Hi Tom,

although I actually think you should ask your question in a new thread, I'm going to try to answer your question shortly:

I think if you're serious about video, there is no reason to go with a camera that records straight to dvd.
It's designed for people who make birthday videos and can instantly watch it with their dvd player.
But the cameras themselves aren't that good (there are no real prosumer cams who film on dvd) and it's much more a pain to edit then straight minidv.
So: mostly cons, only pro's if you are uncle Joe filming a birthday or something - with all respect.
Best regards,

I'm looking for a smaller (handheld) MiniDV camera $1,000 or less that has the following:
S-Video In/Out
A/V In/Out
Headphone Jack
Good in Low-Light

I've read a few reviews that have led me to the Sony DCR-PC350 and the Panasonic PV-GS400. Any other recommendations?

I can only tell you that the GS400 is discontinued, so if you want one - and many people want one, because the new version, the gs500 seems to be not as good as the gs400 - you'll have to buy one second hand from someone from these boards or on ebay or something.

Best regards,

We used the 350 with a wide angle lens for close up hand held shots of faces of African children in a doc a year ago. Mostly shot with XL1s, after post (FGP 4) we had wonderful results.

Rand

Hi, I was wondering what the BEST camera under $1500 was??
My best buy has 2 HDR-HC1's left, because they've been discontinued, and i'm still confused on what to get.
NO, I cannot stretch the budget.
I would LIKE for the camera to be BIG, not nothing like palm camcorders, I want to look professional.
I will make videos to post on the internet, and make home movies also.
I want also, nice manual capabilities, WITH a headphone and microphone jack.

Thanks!

First post here!

if your just doing it for the net and urself, why does it have to look professional?

GS400 is small but great and very cheap

Hi Mel,

welcome to the boards.
There are many cameras to choose from, but in your budget, they are almost all small. But that shouldn't really matter, it's what they are capable of.
Also, define 'small'?

A GL2, even a HVX200 looks like a (bigger) palmcorder to me.
Only XL models and the HD-100 from JVC look like 'bigger' camcorders.

A GS400 is a good camcorder for it's price, but it looks a bit like a palmcorder, and it's discontinued, but you could look for a used one.
You can look maybe for used models, like a VX2100, GL1,...
Unless HD is really important to you.
I think you should primarly tell us what you are planning to do with the camera.

Welcome to DVinfo Mel. This recent thread might interest you: http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?t=65237

I don't have any experience with it, but the DVC7 which Derrick chose is a larger camera that might look "professional" and it's in your price range:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=274107&is=REG&addedTroughType=search

Thanks for the info, guys :)

Get the DVC30 it's a steal at the price right now!

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=316087&is=REG&addedTroughType=search

And there is a $200 rebate from Panasonic.

I use both the DVC7 and DVC 30 at uni. While the DVC30 is smaller (looks like an oversized palmcorder), I reckon its much nicer both ergonomically and functionally to use than the DVC7. The design of the DVC7 is actually very unergonomic IMO, but thats prob just to do with the shape of my head/shoulders?!

The HC1 is a fun little camera which can take decent HD/SD video and pretty good still photos; other than not looking very imposing it's arguably a good choice in your price range. Otherwise the Canon GL2 might be worth a look, or a used Sony VX2000.

I have a friend who is looking for a smaller camera that has enough capability to capture footage that will be aired nationally. It would also need the ability to have a wireless mic set-up on it.

Any recommendations?

Also, can anyone recommend a wireless mic set-up and brand? What would you need for a camera like this?

Any recommendations?

Mike how much time do you have? I use both an FX1 and a Z1, a Sony wireless lav(s) only because the batteries last all day, an Audio Technica shotgun with a "dead cat" windscreen. Toss in a tripod, a Kenyon Labs stabilizer, Merlin Steadicam, and a few parts I know I'm missing and you got the gear you need.

Jim

Hi everyone,
I'm pretty new to this forum, and I have a few questions for you. I work for a glass school doing multiple things, but most relevant, I spent the past winter starting to digitize their immense (over 1000 tapes) video collection into a digital format. All the masters are currently Hi8 tapes. Every year the collection grows by around 36 or so tapes.

I have separated the tapes into separate clips and compressed them to Mpeg-4 format and they are stored on a local server and are searchable through an xml-based database I set wrote in flash.

So now to get to the point, the school is looking to purchase 1 or 2 new camcorders for future use, as their current ones are getting a bit beat up now. They are quite old. So I am writing to ask for advice as you all will know much better than I what would be best. Any direction would be helpful. The budget is likely around $2000 for 2 camcorders, however, I could propose spending more if you think it would be worthwhile.

Things that should effect the decision are ease of use (Not everyone who uses the cameras would necessarily be well-versed in video-camera use), as well as battery life (They would need to be able to go to different parts on campus). Obviously the better the quality of the footage, the better it will be as there is potential for using some footage in promotional materials. I imagine 3-CCD would be the best bet and in the price range. Would it be worthwhile going for HDV?

Also, as the footage will eventually be fully digitized and stored on hard drives, speed of encoding and transfer may be a factor.

Again, any help, advice, direction you can give to me will be much appreciated.

thanks very much,
iLan

Sony A1 is their proline HDV, that can shoot in both HDV and Standard Definition. You can purchase it at B&H Photo for about $2,000 after rebate. That's only for one camera. It is a single chip HDV camera, but has been well accepted, and if your people are still using Hi8, they will be astounded at the quality.

If you are staying in the SD DV level (non HDV), but want to stay in 3 chip, Panasonic GS 400 can be bought for under $1,000 apiece. I don't think Sony is offering anything in 3 chip under $1 k at this point.

The Sony DCRTRV950 is a single chip camera you might want to consider for around $ 1,000.

The Canon GL2's are great 3 chippers but run somewhere around the A1.

The Sony VX2100 is a great 3 chipper, and will handle all the needs you have indicated, but again, this is getting in to the 2k and above price range for each.

These are one I am most familiar with, but I have no doubt others will be recommended by other members.

Thanks for your input.

I will look into those cameras.

I do have another question. Would someone be able to explain the benefits of a 3-chip camera over a 1-chip camera to me? Is the difference very noticeable?

Also, are HDV tapes quite a bit more expensive? Going through 36 or so in a year, that can add up as well.


Thanks very much,
iLan

Thanks for your input.

I will look into those cameras.

I do have another question. Would someone be able to explain the benefits of a 3-chip camera over a 1-chip camera to me? Is the difference very noticeable?

Also, are HDV tapes quite a bit more expensive? Going through 36 or so in a year, that can add up as well.


Thanks very much,
iLan

Three Chippers will give a fuller richer color, and more resolution, over a single chip camera. Essentially, there is more information for the encoder to work with to provide the ultimate picture.

As to tape, Sony HDV uses the same tape as DV cameras, so there isn't much difference. There are those that by the specially labled HDV tapes, for a lot more, and you will find a lot of people swearing by that. So your tapes would run from $4.00 to $20.00 depending on who you want to believe. I have a Sony FX1 HDV, and I have used $4.00 tapes without having drop outs. One important thing that seems to be a common theme on the tapes issues is to try to use the same tape. Different manufacturers have dry or wet lubricants, and combining the two can create dirty heads. There are head cleaning tapes, but the less you use those, the better.

I've lined up some good paying jobs for videoing seminars for local access tv and some dance recitals and i was thinking of getting a shoulder eng pro camera with 1/2 chip and dvcam capability. I was told that you get far fewer dropouts and better image quality with dvcam and if you want to be taken seriously you have to be at least be using that format.

Can anyone give me advice for a good entry level eng camera in $5,000-8,000 range? Am I making a bad decision putting money into a SD camera with HD entering the market? Right now none of my type of clients want HD but with such a larger purchase I'm thinking of the future (5 yr time frame).

I've lined up some good paying jobs for videoing seminars for local access tv and some dance recitals and i was thinking of getting a shoulder eng pro camera with 1/2 chip and dvcam capability. I was told that you get far fewer dropouts and better image quality with dvcam and if you want to be taken seriously you have to be at least be using that format.

Can anyone give me advice for a good entry level eng camera in $5,000-8,000 range? Am I making a bad decision putting money into a SD camera with HD entering the market? Right now none of my type of clients want HD but with such a larger purchase I'm thinking of the future (5 yr time frame).

Hi Pete,

There are a couple of shoulder mounted Sony cameras that would fit into that budget and shoot DVCAM format. You DO run less risk of dropout with DVCAM and you do get locked audio with DVCAM. However, you DO NOT get better image quality because DVCAM is the same as mini-DV in that it is compressed 5:1 and has 4:1:1 chroma sampling. The other advantage to DVCAM if the camera supports it would be to use the full size DVCAM tapes.

-gb-

In that price range, you have the Canon XL2, the JVC HD100, and a few other miniDV and HDV cams. Sony also has a few ENG cams in that range, but i really know nothing about them. Check out what B&H has
www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?A=search&Q=&a=228_1434&mnp=0.0&mxp=0.0&shs=&ci=1881&ac=&Submit.x=9&Submit.y=12&Submit=Go"

I looked on B&H and found a Sony DSR-400L $7,500

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=367994&is=REG&addedTroughType=categoryNavigation

Greg: so ur saying the tape wouldn't make a difference but I'd assume with the bigger chip and better lense DVcam tape wouldn't limit image quality

Keith: I don't want mini-DVcam because the length of the tape is too short in that mode, I've also heard that DV full size tapes are better.

I've lined up some good paying jobs for videoing seminars for local access tv and some dance recitals and i was thinking of getting a shoulder eng pro camera with 1/2 chip and dvcam capability. I was told that you get far fewer dropouts and better image quality with dvcam and if you want to be taken seriously you have to be at least be using that format.

Can anyone give me advice for a good entry level eng camera in $5,000-8,000 range? Am I making a bad decision putting money into a SD camera with HD entering the market? Right now none of my type of clients want HD but with such a larger purchase I'm thinking of the future (5 yr time frame).

Shoot HD, edit HD, then scale to SD. IMHO spending money on SD cams right now is short-sighted. A bit like when people bought new VHS players -even though thier local Blockbuster had 2 newly expanded wall racks of DVDs. Can you see the writing on the wall? Aquisition in SD is almost DEAD.

I'm a wedding videographer and for the first time last week a bride, without any prompting, asked me about high definition. I almost fell off my chair. I meet with 40-50 per year and last week was the first time it ever happened. Times are a changin'.

I think your 5 year time frame is too long. As some other people have mentioned in other threads...

SD will be slow in dying for consumer delivery, but fast to die in acquisition. Give it a few years. It'll all be HD at one level or another.

in the 1/2 inch chip arena you have a few choices-JVC5100 (doesn't shoot DVCAM) - I've shot a lot of spot news with it and have never had problem with DV over DVCAM- 1/2" a good Canon 19X7 the VP-F116 viewfinder and you're good to go. Otherwise Sony had the DSR300,370 and 390 series which are no longer in production but can be found used-they're great cameras that shot DVCAM-have no LCD and few auto functions but are as solid as they come. You should be able to find a DSR3XX well within the price range you're thinking about. BTW, the JVC5100 also falls in the price range.

The Canon XLXX, JVC HD100 are 1/3" chips and the DSR400 is 2/3" chips as is the 450.
I disagree that SD is dead yet but that's just my opinion-TV stations still use BetaSP for the majority of their stuff.

HTHs
Don

Alrighty, so I have talked to some of the people in charge and have some more details about the budget and needs.

The budget is actually $3,000.

Also, the reason for 2 cameras is a bit different. They have 2 cameras so one can be in the field recording, while the other one is in the library creating VHS copies. So essentially, the 2nd camera does not necessarily need to be as good. It just needs to be able to create copies so we can keep the masters separate.

So I am pretty new to HD and have a few more questions about that. If the videos are recorded onto a HDV tape, can those be transfered to a regular tape without an HD camera? Or is an HD camera necessary for that transfer? Also, what format should the HD footage be on for viewing? Can you store HD footage on a VHS tape or a DVD? Or does that need something special(other than an HD TV)?

And finally, would you consider a 1 chip HDV camera or a 3-chip DV camera better suited for this purpose? These would be recording generally in less than ideal conditions (Especially where lighting is concerned) by less than ideal videographers.

I was thinking that buying a high quality either 1-chip HD camera or a 3-chip DV camera along with a cheaper camera to keep in the library for transferring to tapes/DVD's would be the most cost effective as opposed to buying two of the same cameras.

Again, any advice/direction is greatly appreciated.

Thanks very much,
iLan

Alrighty, so I have talked to some of the people in charge and have some more details about the budget and needs.

The budget is actually $3,000.

Also, the reason for 2 cameras is a bit different. They have 2 cameras so one can be in the field recording, while the other one is in the library creating VHS copies. So essentially, the 2nd camera does not necessarily need to be as good. It just needs to be able to create copies so we can keep the masters separate.

S...

I was thinking that buying a high quality either 1-chip HD camera or a 3-chip DV camera along with a cheaper camera to keep in the library for transferring to tapes/DVD's would be the most cost effective as opposed to buying two of the same cameras.

Again, any advice/direction is greatly appreciated.

Thanks very much,
iLan

Is the 2nd camera strictly for making copies and will never be used for shooting? If so, why not get one of the JVC combo decks - SR-VS30U - that has both VHS and DV and allows dubbing back and forth between the two. You'll get more flexibility, better quality, and lower overall cost than using a camera and VHS deck. Here's a link ... http://jvc.ca/jvcpro//product-detail.aspx?h=P1_200&l=E&model=SR-VS30U

Ilan,

You didn't comment on how much editing is done. If you really want to take a different route, shoot with Sanyo HD1. It records standard definition or high definition directly to SD card in MP4 (H263 variety). Performance is marginal in low light, and HD performance is barely high definition (it's 720p, but not particilarly good 720p).

If you don't do editing, but simply encode to MP4 for server, this might be a much simpler approach. Use 4GB cards over, but copy MP4 files to DVDs for backup. Transfer of files to server could be done much faster than real time with $20 USB2.0 card reader.

This camera is basically a consumer product, and MSRP is $800, but I was intrigued with the idea that MP4 origination could save you considerable work. At least I may have caused you to think in a different arena. The HD1 is thoroughly discussed under HDV acquisition in this forum. There are quite a few sample clips too.

Good luck!

Thanks for the input David,
As for editing, it's currently pretty minimal. To the extent that all I'm doing is separating if there are multiple clips on one tape.


You bring up a really good point, and I wish I could make use of that very time-saving process. My only reservations with that, is then the footage will always be mp4 at best. And there is a chance this footage may be used later for some sort of promotional materials. I'd hate to limit the quality and editing capabilities by going direct to mp4, even though that would cut MY time down QUITE considerably - Almost in half!

After looking at a lot of different models and reviews, I've been thinking less along the lines of HD and more along the lines of a good CCD DV camera. I think that the HD cameras would need a slightly higher budget to make them worthwhile.

I've been thinking strongly about the VX2100. I especially like it's ability to film well (relatively speaking) under low-light conditions. I was thinking about buying 1 VX2100 and then one cheaper miniDV camera that could stay in the library for transferring the footage onto VHS tapes. However, it would be nice if all the cameras could have interchangeable batteries. However if the one camera never leaves the library, I suppose it would just be plugged in and not use batteries anyways.

Thanks to everyone for the help and ideas thusfar. You have been very helpful for me.