Thank you Jay and Ash
As I said, the camera`s owner was not familiar with it.
But Is there a need to do a back focus adjustment or hearing the click sound when fitting the zoom is enough?
Ron

On the auto lens there is no back-focus available to the user, it must be done at the factory. Have you tried it a couple times? I have noticed it happen on my XL1s from time to time but it always seems to correct itself with a re-mount.



ash =o)

No Ash
I had the camera on my hands for few minutes and when I found this big lens problem (after zooming in and out many times) I gave up testing the camera.
Ron

i noticed that i can gradually turn the ND filter so that i can get in between settings from no ND to N32. i did not, however shoot with these in-between settings because they might have had bad effects. Are there any bad effects? Image wise? would it damage the lens when kept in an in between position?

thanks

i noticed that i can gradually turn the ND filter so that i can get in between settings from no ND to N32. i did not, however shoot with these in-between settings because they might have had bad effects. Are there any bad effects? Image wise? would it damage the lens when kept in an in between position?

thanks
I tried it once and got some weird effects. I would not recommend it. Part of the image was blurry and part wasn't. Something just looked weird. I can't imagine it would hurt anything but it could ruin a shot since it is possible that part of the frame is covered by one ND filter and the other part covered by another. I doubt it is a subtle gradient transition between these 2 degrees.

I tried it once and got some weird effects. I would not recommend it. Part of the image was blurry and part wasn't. Something just looked weird. I can't imagine it would hurt anything but it could ruin a shot since it is possible that part of the frame is covered by one ND filter and the other part covered by another. I doubt it is a subtle gradient transition between these 2 degrees.

i would suspect something like this. could you link to a vidcap? i'll try to do some testing if i can because if it works, then it's a great thing to use

Hi everyone,

Which of these cir-polarizing work better on the 20x

B+W or Hoya.

I need it for sunny days and shooting the clouds.

Thank you

Hi everyone,

Which of these cir-polarizing work better on the 20x

B+W or Hoya.

I need it for sunny days and shooting the clouds.

Thank you

Hi,

I started out looking at the Hoya but I found a used B+W so I bought it.
The lens guy that I purchased it from said that Hoya and B+W are on par with each other = excellent.

Steph

Either will work just fine...



ash =o)

Anyone know where I can purchase extra dust caps for the 20x lens and camera body when you take off the lens for transport?

I can't find this part anywhere. Can only find the 72mm cap that goes up front.

Thanks.

You may have to actually call Canon to get the parts. They have many parts available through phone sales that aren't listed online anywhere. Case in point, I just bought a replacement lens hood and zoom lever pin for the 16x manual lens.

I believe it's 1-800-OKCANON. Follow the wonderful menu trail from there. They are very helpful once you get to talk to someone.

-gb-

I know it's probably too soon to tell, but would there be any advantage whatsoever to use the H1 HD lens on an XL2?

Definitely yes because it has to be a better lens to support the higher resolution of the new chip set. What is not so definite is that it will be appreciably or even noticeably better.

Received my XL2 last week and same night went out to shoot traffic scenes for part of a TV spot. This was the first time I used the camera and the new Florite 20x Lens.(Ive used Xl1 and 1s for years.) I was surprised by the tiny floating lights when shooting into approaching cars. Every headlight it seems produced several "floters" that were very annoying, and distracting. I have not seen this before with the 16x lens on the XL1s....is this a new feature ??? I took off the tiffen UV filter, but it made no difference....any comments would be welcome.

This artifact could be caused by image stabilisation. Turn OIS off and see if there's a difference.

What exaclty is a "floter"? I've never heard this term.

Happens all the time with the 20x lens in low light with bright lights where lens flares are more easily seen. OIS is the culprit. I never experienced this with the 16x manuals lens.

Hi. My "Search" function is on the fritz so I apologize if this subject's been covered over and over. I've got the 20X lens with my XL2 and was wondering if anyone has done and testing with the lens to determine the best apertures? Thanks in advance.
Sprague

Wide open... I like to use it long and wide open is the best way to keep it, that will give you the best DOF and keep the image from getting soft... try to squash light with filters if possible, I try to never go over f4 or f5



ash =o)

Many thanks.
S

Wide open... I like to use it long and wide open is the best way to keep it, that will give you the best DOF and keep the image from getting soft... try to squash light with filters if possible, I try to never go over f4 or f5
ash =o)

Betcha shoot fully manual too huh!

Hi there everybody!

I just recently got my XL2. I have some previous experience with using other people's XL2s, as well as lots of experience with Betacams, etc.

My question is about focus. When I zoom in and focus on the eye of a person, for example, then zoom back out, the picture looks kinda soft to me. I have seen items in the foreground that actually look sharper than the subject. It's almost like the back focus is off, but the 20x auto lens doesn't have a back focus. Has anybody else experienced this, and is there anything to do about it? Otherwise I might be tempted to look at the 16x manual lens instead.

THANKS!

Rob

i had something similar at one point and i took the lens to canon to get adjusted, they said it was just fine.

I think what might be happening is that you zoom all the way in and focus, but at the long end ofthe zoom the lens is an f3.5, you focus at that f-stop which has a fairly large amount of depth of field then pull out and the lens opens all the way to f1.6 which has a much shallower DOP so the focus actually has to be more precise on the shorter end which seems backwards, try setting and keeping the aperture at 3.5 all the way through the zoom out and see if you still have the problem, if so you definetely have a back focus problem,

that said, you wouldn't be disappointed with the 16x manual, which keeps a steady f-stop through it's whole range.

-Jon

Hypothetical question:
This is kind of silly, but has been bugging me for a while.

If you are in the eye of a, say, 940> mb hurricane with a tight pressure gradient, would the rapidly changing conditions be bad for your lens in the way of bubbles, etc? If there are any weather videographers here, I would love to draw upon your experience in this and a plethora of other regards.


Jeff

There is a caveat in the XL-H1 manual to the effect that a gas bubble may form in the liquid between the plates in the 20x lens at aircraft cabin pressure altitudes (about 7000 feet). While this is appreciably less than 940 mb I suppose the potential for this to happen is there for any of Canon's OIS lenses that use this basic architecture.

Haven't traveled with the H1 yet, but I carried my XL2 with 20x and 3x lenses on multiple airplane trips and haven't actually seen any bubbles, even though I know at least once I had cabin pressure altitudes well above 10,000 feet. The barometric pressure in a hurricane would be the least of my concerns -- water and wind-driven objects would be higher on my list of worries!

Okay thanks… I was going to segue into the airplane caveat, as you termed it, so I am glad that you covered that.

I do wonder if anyone has ever documented a major hurricane, on the ground, in high def? I think Jim Edds uses a dvx100, and it is only a matter of time before one of these idiots takes the plunge in this regard.

My camera was destroyed along with my house during charley, but the tape survived... which is all that matters!

Hi all,

I've been trying to figure out (with no luck) if there is any way at all to find out what the focal length is set to in a numerical format on the standard 20x lens that ships with the XL2.

I know there are no markings on the lens itself due to the mag-rings and in the viewfinder it's just a mark between W and T...but if I wanted, for example, to set the zoom to the equivalent of an 85mm prime, is there any way at all for me to set that number exactly?

Thanks for your help,

Shawn McBee

I have 2 lens the factory 20X lens and the 3x lens, today I had a shoot and when I connect the 20X lens I had no picture. I then connected the 3x lens and I had picture and everything worked fine. I reconnected the 20X lens, made sure I heard the little pops that the lens does. It did, but still no picture, has anyone else had this problem???

Did you take the lens off without turning the power off? You may have blown a lens fuse and it is preventing the iris from opening.

Matt

No.. I didn't.. But what your saying about the iris is tru I don't think its opening.. Does this mean I got to send it to CANON???

Does this mean I got to send it to CANON???


Sounds that way. Not only do I power down when changing the lens, I take off the battery as well for added precaution.

Now that's caution!

I would suggest trying the lens on another XL2 body before you send it in. Just to be sure.

Matt

Also, did you take the lenscap off?

(jokes)

Also, did you take the lenscap off?

(jokes)

That was great!! hahaha... I thought I did that at first...

I've been noticing my XL2's lens makes a clicking noise when I turn on the camcorder. I checked the connection carefully, and nothing was wrong. Then I looked directly into the lens to see what was going on.

When I turn on the camcorder, the lens aperture "scoots" from side to side (more like wiggles) recedes back into the lens housing and then settles. I'm thinking the lens is resetting after the previous use.

The camcorder still works perfectly. I have no trouble with the lens.

Does anyone else have a similar issue? Does anyone know if this is detrimental to my beloved XL2?

The variable angle prism that stabilizes your image is going through its power on init routine. Perfectly normal, nothing to worry about.

-gb-

Vishad, wanna see something freaky? Turn on your camera and look at the lens element when you start up. It wobbles! (part of the IS). Kinda neato, but yeah, clicking is supposed to be there. In fact, if it doesn't click you are in trouble.

Wow, thank you, guys!!

It's really strange to see that lens go through that, but I'm glad it's not something I have to get fixed.

I use the Sony Z1 camera.

Jim Edds

Does anyone know where I can get one, or have instructions on how to make one?

Bill

Dont bother... the Canon focus is not consistent in this manner, you need to use an electronic LANC controller or use the built in focus preset functions. The focus ring is like a fretless bass...



ash =o)

Thanks Ash, I do have a LANC controller and have used the focus preset.
I guess I'll be happy with them.

Thank you,
Bill

You can also try the 14X or 16x manual lenses... you should be able to pick one up used for $750 - $850



ash =o)

Ash,

Thanks again for the reply.
Which of the two 14x or 16x is the better lens in your option.

Bill

Now keep in mind, I haven't actually used either of these lenses, but based on what I've read at the XL2 Watchdog site, I'd lean towards the 16x Servo Lens. It gives you motorized zoom as an option, with a slightly wider/longer zoom range. There is an extensive review on the Chris Hurd's XL2 Watchdog site.

http://dvinfo.net/canon/articles/article82.php

Also, FYI there's a great 16x for sale in the private classifieds right now...

http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?t=86839

Now I'm not on commission for Ken, or anything, just thought I'd throw in my 2 cents...

Kevin

The 16x is longer but not wider than the 14x. Also the 14x has a true manual stepless iris ring, like a pro video lens. I opted for this over the 16x back in the day and didn't regret it (or miss the extra length on the telephoto side of things, to be honest).

I am actually selling my 14x with a Century wide angle adaptor here also.

http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?t=65633

Kevin, Charles,

Thank you both for your replies, not better, but different that is what I get from them.

Hmmm... gotta think on this. :-)

Bill

True iris can be helpful in many situations... image quality is similar in both and IMHO improved over the stock lens. 16X has more aberration on the long end but adds the servo motor.



ash =o)

I much prefer the handling of the 16X Manual Servo over the 14X lens. I also got on better with the 16X MF over the Optex converted Fujinon XL 14X MF lens.