View Full Version : FU-1000 monochrome B&W CRT viewfinder


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Ken Tanaka
June 2nd, 2004, 11:11 AM
Aw, geez Mark. Whatever you do, stay away from my Firestore FS-3 article, at least until next month! And just ignore my upcoming article on the KinoFlo 12v lighting.

Mark A. Foley
June 2nd, 2004, 11:13 AM
good point as my money supply has become exhausted.....

Josh Allen
June 9th, 2004, 11:48 PM
Is that FS-3 article up yet Ken? I would love to hear your opinion on it.

Ken Tanaka
June 9th, 2004, 11:49 PM
It sure is, Josh! (http://www.dvinfo.net/canon/articles/article88.php)

Josh Allen
June 10th, 2004, 12:05 AM
Thanks for the link Ken. Great write-up, especially the XL1 caveats. Despite those it is still a very tempting unit.

Sorry for taking this thread off topic :)

Mark A. Foley
June 10th, 2004, 03:36 AM
Ken,
Do you know how much (I imagine probably negligble) of additional current draw is there present with the tally lights on? Due to the high cost of outfitting two cameras with the viewfinder and manual lens, I haven't yet upgraded to a dual battery setup. However, I am using the -945 batteries and hopefully will give me some decent recording time.

I'm getting ready to use the new equipment for a wedding shoot this weekend and in the past I've had piece of mind when I look up in the balcony at my son as verify his cameras are indeed rolling.

Ken Tanaka
June 10th, 2004, 09:37 AM
"Do you know how much (I imagine probably negligble) of additional current draw is there present with the tally lights on?"

No I don't, but I wouldn't imagine it to be a significant battery draw.

Tripp Stapleton
June 23rd, 2004, 05:00 PM
Hello,
My Canon FU-1000 Viewfinder all of a sudden won't power on. It's connected properly to the XL1s and has a fully charged Canon battery connected to it. THe stock FU-500 works fine.
Please advise if anyone has any tips or tricks that I don't know about.
Thanks,
David Stapleton

Ken Tanaka
June 23rd, 2004, 05:12 PM
It sounds like an internal fuse has blown. Another member encountered a similar problem not long ago. In his case the problem may have been related to using the camera on a/c power while using the FU-1000, something that the manual warns against.

Canon Service is your only alternative.

Tripp Stapleton
June 25th, 2004, 04:55 PM
Thanks Ken for the quick reply. I'll post more info here for other users who may have similar issues once hear back from Canon.

Elmar Tewes
July 1st, 2004, 08:40 PM
yes i had that about a month ago. fuse burned. i replaced the fuse, its quite easy.
but i still have another problem. my picture rolls down very fast and gets slower and slower until it stands still but before it stands still it takes 5-10 minutes of rolling picture. my cam is pal but viewfinder is ntsc labled. looks like the syncronisation chip isnt able to syncronise correctly :-(

Tripp Stapleton
July 2nd, 2004, 11:50 AM
Were you somehow able to replace the fuse yourself or did you have to send it into Canon? If the former, how'd you do it? If the latter, what was Canon's turnaround time and how much did it cost?
Sorry to hear about the scrolling issue. Can Canon fix tthat for you?

Elmar Tewes
July 2nd, 2004, 04:43 PM
no i cant fix the scrolling myself :-( when i would have a technical plan of the viewfinder i could give it to a friend who looks at it and could say me if he could do it himself. im not even sure if its a bug or just because its a ntsc labled version and i have a pal cam.
when its the fuse, you dont need to send it in when you dont have warranty for it anymore. its easy to fix. i havnt done it myself (cause i have 2 left hands) but my cousin did it and i watched it and he isnt a pro either (but knows how to do easy things).
open the adapter (not the viewfinder !) you will find written on the board F101 A1,25 V125, that the fuse you need to buy - 50 cent. then remove the old one (its over the written F101 and looks like a U but the other way round) and solder the new fuse in. et voila - working again. dont remove any cables while the viewfinder is on, it burns the fuse instantly.
but of course, youre doing it on your own risk, i just tell you what i did and it works for me ;-)
ask a friend who owns a solder thing and who has a bit knowledge using it and thats fine for the burned fuse.

Elmar

Tripp Stapleton
July 3rd, 2004, 08:06 PM
Great, thanks for the info.

How did you know that that fuse was blown to replace it. I'm looking at it now and it looks ok. I guess I don't know what I should be looking for.

Where did you find the fuse? I went to Radio Shack and they didn't have anything like it. I've scoured the web and found a "Zenith F101 Fuse" at Partsolver.com, but don't know if it's the one I'm looking for.

Elmar Tewes
July 3rd, 2004, 08:17 PM
hmmmm... i dont know what it is called in the USA... we have big electroshops here who sell everything that amateur constructors need to build/fix.
im 100% sure you have something like that in the bigger cities or as internet shop. i dont know what the f101 is meaning, but it must be A1,25 V125 or compatible solder fuse

Tripp Stapleton
July 3rd, 2004, 11:49 PM
Could you tell by looking at the fuse that it was blown? If so, how?

Elmar Tewes
July 4th, 2004, 06:52 AM
no a friend used a measuring tool and measured the if energy flows. no energy flowed so the fuse was burned

Greg Boston
July 9th, 2004, 06:46 PM
Tripp,

The F101 is just a part designator number. It has nothing to do with the acutal fuse. The fuse rating you are looking for based on Elmar's reply is a 1.25 AMP 125V fuse. Since I don't own this viewfinder, I can't tell you what the fuse phyically looks like. Might be best to take the unit with you to Radio Shack and see if the store clerk can match it for you.

To check the fuse, un-solder one side and use a volt-ohm meter to check it. You can buy a cheap one at Radio Shack. It will have an analog meter that shows maximum resistance on the left side and minimum resistance on the right side. A small thumbwheel or knob allows you to 'zero' the meter while touching the meter leads to each other. Full scale deflection will change depending on the scale you select and the condition of the battery.

If you aren't comfortable un-soldering and soldering, get someone to help you. You can burn the traces off the printed circuit board if you overheat it.

regards,

-gb-

Oliver Power
November 22nd, 2004, 09:46 PM
I just read this in a customer review of Canon's FU-1000 B&W viewfinder;

"One of the most troublesome aspects of the unit is the necessity for the battery adapter which locks onto the XL1/XL1s in place of the battery, then your battery locks into that adapter. The adapter is EXTREMELY sensitive and does not tolerate anything but Canon batteries. I ended up sending mine in for warranty service after the very first time I used it in the field as it had stopped powering the viewfinder completely. The techs tell me that the AC adapter and most third power batteries (including the Anton Bauer QR-XL1C) cause the battery contacts' connections to the board to overheat and burn-out."

Is this true, or for that matter a common occurence? Any opinions would be great as I was planning on getting the viewfinder for my XL2 with Anton Bauer setup.

thanks,

Oliver

Rob Lohman
November 23rd, 2004, 07:06 AM
Oliver, I've moved your thread from the XL2 forum to the XL1
forum since there are a lot more people here who have experience
with the FU-1000 than over in the XL2 forum.

Oliver Power
November 23rd, 2004, 11:06 AM
thanks Rob, my only concern though was that perhaps compatibility issues between the XL1/S and the viewfinder might be different than with the XL2, and so it would make more sense to post in the forum relevant to my camera.

thanks,

Oliver

Rob Lohman
November 24th, 2004, 03:17 AM
It is the same viewfinder, you are correct in that it is attached a
slight bit different to the XL2 (the XL2 has a special port for the
FU-1000, which I think is for the power).

Charles Papert
November 24th, 2004, 11:26 AM
Yes, the FU-1000 runs on 9v, so the adaptor steps up the nominal 7.2v XL series battery to provide this voltage. The multiple pins also provide a variety of other functions of the viewfinder (tally light indicator etc). I'm still trying to isolate which wire does which for a mod I'm making--anyone that can locate a wiring diagram, please chime in!

The XL2 does away with the nonsense of the adaptor by providing a built-in jack that directly services the FU-1000 and provides it power, video and the other functions.

Oliver Power
November 24th, 2004, 11:33 AM
Great thanks guys. So just to confirm:

XL2
+
FU-1000
+
Anton Bauer batteries
=
no problems?


thanks,

Oliver

Richard Alvarez
November 24th, 2004, 12:49 PM
Canon Reps will tell you that any use of "Non Canon" power supply will void the warranty if you have a problem. That's the official line. I know, I just heard it.

The FU 1000 has it's own plug on the XL2, seperate from the color viewfinder port. This is better than the xl1 because it frees up the battery compartment so you can use the AC adapter.

Dan O'Bannon
January 22nd, 2005, 09:06 PM
I was using AC to power my viewfinder and it did burn out, luckily it was still under waranty and was repaired.

Greg Boston
January 22nd, 2005, 10:37 PM
Dan,

I seem to recall an earlier thread here discussing that same problem. If memory serves correctly, it was stated that you can't run the FU-1000 off of the AC adapter for the very reason you experienced. Supposedly, there is a warning against doing this in the Canon docs somewhere.

I don't believe this applies to the XL-2.

=gb=

Dan O'Bannon
January 23rd, 2005, 11:32 AM
Page 15 of the Canon Monochrome CRT Viewfinder Unit FU-1000 owners manual I recieved with my FU-1000 viewfinder:

Notes on using the FU-1000

"The FU-1000 cannot be powered from an AC/mains outlet (with the CA-900/CA-910 Compact Power Adapter) or from your car battery (with the CB-900/CB910 Car Batery Adapter). You must use a batery pack (or two with the CH-900/CH-910 Dual Batery Charger/Holder* (sold separately) to power and use the FU-1000."

Hope that helps

Dan

Greg Boston
January 23rd, 2005, 01:49 PM
That's interesting, Dan. I'm now wondering if this limitation does, in fact, apply to the XL-2. I don't have the FU-1000 yet but I would think with the native plug in support for the B/W that the XL-2 is ok. I know the XL-2 supports an extra contact in the battery compartment which is only activated when the AC adapter is attached. It cuts off the battery level display in the viewfinder but it might also be used to let the camera know how to differenty handle the B/W VF if present.

Perhaps someone with XL-2 and B/W VF can check this out.

=gb=

Bruce S. Yarock
June 2nd, 2005, 03:59 PM
After reading numerous posts, and reading Ken Tanaka's thorough review at-
http://www.dvinfo.net/canon/articles/article83.php, I ordered the fu-1000 viewfinder. I've been having some focus problems, mainly indoors and in lower light conditions, under chaotic conditions.We've been doing some shooting for a local pol running for sate senate, and the conditions have been pretty bad. I'm hoping that my 57 year old eyes will have an easier time with the fu-1000.
Have any of you used it in run and gun type situations? Under what conditions has it been most helpfull? Since there is no battery status info, does anyone have any idea of how long a Canon 945 will typically last? ( I have an AB dionic 90 also, but was wondering about the stock batteries usage.)

Thanks in advance for any help.
Bruce S. Yarock

Richard Alvarez
June 2nd, 2005, 04:56 PM
Bruce,

The battery indicator is present when using it on an XL2.

I use it exclusively. Finished a doc with it, used it night and day, run and gun. It is heavier, of course, so figure that in. I also used a dual batt pack, so I never noticed how much drain there was. THe manual outlines the different drain rates for vewfinder and lens combos.

In short, it's worth every penny.

Bruce S. Yarock
June 2nd, 2005, 08:29 PM
Thanks, Richard. That's good news. So you're saying that while the battery indicator didn't work ojn the XL1, it does on the XL2?
I'm lloking forward to getting mine tommorrow.
Bruce yarock

Mike Teutsch
June 7th, 2005, 08:25 PM
Congrats on getting the FU-1000. Would you consider selling the stock color FU-500 to me? Have a XL1s body with no viewfinder! I have 57 year old eyes too, but can't afford the B&W. I used to live in Sunrise, now in Ft. Pierce.

Best of luck---Mike

Bruce S. Yarock
June 8th, 2005, 11:03 AM
Mike,
Thanks for the offer, but I'm going to keep it.If the new one ever went out, I'd have a back up. Also, if i ever sold the xl2 (way down the road), i would have to sell it without the viewfinder (which may not be available then).
I see you're in Ft. Pierce...I'm up there every so often. Email your phone number, and I'll give you a call.
Bruce yarock
yarock at aol dot com.

Brian Hicks
February 27th, 2006, 07:58 PM
This is my first post so here goes... I'm considering purchasing a FU-1000 B/W viewfinder for my XL1s. Does any one know if the use of the Lightwave SI-XL System Isolator creates any connection problems for the viewfinder since it will move it forward 60MM. Currently I have no problem with the color viewfinder and the Isolator. Since the FU-1000 connects to rear battery adapter will the cable be long enough? I just don't know!
Thanks!

Henry Cho
February 28th, 2006, 05:04 PM
hi brian... i'm pretty sure the fu1000's cord(s) are not long enough to use with the lightwave system isolator on any xl camera, unless there are some custom cable extensions i don't know about. also, the fu1000 is significantly heavier than the stock viewfinder, and putting the system isolator between the body and the much heavier viewfinder might be asking for trouble. the mic mount on the fu1000 is the same size as on the stock viewfinder, so you can use the lightwave mini mount if you're looking to reduce camera noise hitting tape.

Brian Hicks
February 28th, 2006, 06:17 PM
Thanks Henry!
That's what I kinda figured.. I already have the mini mount so I hope It will suffice.. Decisions, Decisions!

Gaven Eogan
June 11th, 2007, 05:13 AM
I'm sure i have plugged my XL1S with CRT finder directly into the mains using the supplied mains adapter (though the FU-1000 adapter). Is this not allowed according to the manual above????

Jan Mitacek
June 22nd, 2007, 05:47 AM
I use CRT NTSC viewfinder converted to PAL on my XL1s. No problems with "non-Canon" batteries so far.

Greg Boston
June 22nd, 2007, 07:51 AM
I use CRT NTSC viewfinder converted to PAL on my XL1s. No problems with "non-Canon" batteries so far.

Jan, this is an old thread. But I'm guessing your 'non Canon' batteries are still direct replacements that fit into the same place a Canon battery would so you wouldn't have any connectivity issue.

The Anton Bauer batteries are very large and have to sit on the rear of the camera via a Gold Mount adapter plate. That plate has a cable that goes to where the original battery would go on the side of the camera. This was the reason for the incompatibility with the original XL1/s cameras. The FU-1000 has that inline tap for the older cameras, but the XL2 finally included an additional plug for the FU-1000 right under the color vf plug. This eliminated the need for the inline power tap, which in turn allowed using the AB adapter cable in the battery tray.

-gb-

Scott Satrom
January 26th, 2014, 05:33 PM
Page 15 of the Canon Monochrome CRT Viewfinder Unit FU-1000 owners manual I recieved with my FU-1000 viewfinder:

Notes on using the FU-1000

"The FU-1000 cannot be powered from an AC/mains outlet (with the CA-900/CA-910 Compact Power Adapter) or from your car battery (with the CB-900/CB910 Car Batery Adapter). You must use a batery pack (or two with the CH-900/CH-910 Dual Batery Charger/Holder* (sold separately) to power and use the FU-1000."

Hope that helps

Dan


The simplest reason for using batteries vs.the "Canon" CA-910A compact power adapter is the compact power adapters output, {6.0V - 1.7A (VTR)} & {8.4V - 1.2A (BATT)}, is not sufficiant to power the FU-1000 viewfinder.

One could hypathetically connect a Canon DC-900 "type" dummy to a power supply that does provide enough voltage and amperage (7.5V - 1A), to power the viewfinder (12w draw).

If the forementioned is pursued, please keep in mind that a small portion of the plastic in the "dummy" case must be removed from in between the positive and negative contacts, (following the depth and width of the existing channel through to the end), so as to not activate the switch inside and at the top of the battery bay (XL1s models).

My only expierience is with the XL1s, and I have had very good performance using the "hypathetical" solution.

Scott