I built a $14 steadycam last night (it actually cost me about $30, I had to buy a vise) for my pana dv53 (sub 2 pounds) . I was amazed by the results, I walked around the house with the thing and the moving camera shots looked suprisingly fluid and just darn cool.

Has any one else used one of these? What do you think?

http://www-2.cs.cmu.edu/~johnny/steadycam/


Michael

Most people seem to go with the bigger solutions for more
stability and movement isolation. Can you post a clip of your
runs?

That makes sense Rob for an XL1 guy like you, but I have a tiny little cam- less than 1kg- as for posting a clip of some of my runs, I'm in 56k hell at home right now, and I don't even have my G5 on line. Next month when my oldest finishes up potty training and my youngest lays off the formula, my wife and I have decided to treat ourselves to a broadband connection. Aftert that I'm going to set up a webpage and start posting some of my stuff.

that said, I fooled with the thing last night, and my results were not as stunning as my first time out, but I think some practice might help with that, we'll see...

In the meantime, follow the link above for some clips from the gentleman who designed the thing. He's got three clips on the page.
Michael

<<<-- Originally posted by Michael Gibbons : Has any one else used one of these? What do you think?-->>>

I built one a few weeks ago. Only tried it once. It seemed to work OK. I have a bum leg so "gliding with knees bent" as suggested is not so easy for me. I do think a little more practice will make me better even so. I just need to get out and do it.

I'd say it is well worth the price for what it does.


Dennis Vogel

That link sure gets around...

The horizontal member held by the other hand is the problem with that design. It seems like a good idea but it really isn't. I'd recommend eliminating that part.

Hi Michael! I've been through that website before and created that version of the steadicam. Being a nobudget student director it certainly served it's purpose. But it is difficult to work with as you really do have to try and be steady with it to really reap any benefits. Here is the student video I used it on:

http://www.chaoticempire.com/a.waken.html

I pretty much used it on most of the video shoots, especially in the garage. I really would suggest Cody Deegan's stabilizer plans as he has laid out a wonderful how-to-build your own stabilizer manual. Just search these forums for more info.

I would also recommend finding a way to use a material other than galvanized steel for the central pipe. It's just adding unnecessary weight. PVC pipe would likely be the way to go.

I thought the weight was intended to prevent the camera from swaying side to side? Wouldn't PVC defeat that purpose?

Dennis Vogel

The physics involved are based on leverage and inertia. By expanding the component of the camera, we are able to control it from its center of gravity (on the camera by itself, that's inaccessible; by placing it on a pole, we can find the balance point in the middle). The expanded design now adds inertia to the system, which increases stability. The principle of leverage dictates that the further a mass (or application of force) is positioned from its center, the more effect that mass or force will have. Thus, the distribution of weight should be at the far ends of the pole. In other words, a 2 lb pole with a 4 lb weight at either end will act more inert than a 10 lb pole by itself in this application. Better yet, use the principles of leverage in your favor and use a 2 lb weight at the bottom and shift the center of gravity (where you hold the pole) up towards the camera, and you can achieve the same effect.

The most important thing with a handheld stabilizer is to minimize the total weight of the system so that you can operate it with the most comfort and for the maximum amount of time, while retaining enough inertia to stabilize the rig. Thus it is important to distribute the counterweight wisely.

This not to say that Johnny's design won't work; his demos prove otherwise. I'm suggesting that a different approach could be more effective AND lighter weight.

I built a $45 dollar version of this monster (partially modified, partially I was ransacked by a smalltime Ace Hardware). I finished it as I was doing a Behind the Scenes for a student film (Greasy Lake rules), for that it was perfect. In situations where you can't plan what's going to happen, it is a great balance of mobile/versatile. It extends you reach, add a number of new angles, and allows you to walk with stressed out producers in fine form. You can even flip it over and get low angles without fussing with the brackets, if you're willing to just flip it in post. The key is practice; it will greatly effects your results.

As to the weight; I weilded this for a 14 hour all night shoot. The next day I couldn't lift a pan of fries and the dining hall staff laughed at me. After that one night/day of pain, however, I never had a problem with the weight again. One thing to consider if you're thinking of going with PVC: with the sturdier metal frame you can run at full sprint and get astoundingly steady video. (I chase cars to practice this) It's not near crane smooth, but it does have a distinct feel that is pretty cool. I've taped over all my practice runs, but if anyone really wants me to prove any of this I'll be happy to tape some more and post them. I'm a loser like that.

PVC pipe is fairly sturdy stuff, being a cylinder. Aluminum tubing is even better. With the kind of weight we are talking about, flex and resultant jitter shouldn't be a problem. I think you'd only see those types of issues stemming from your camera mounting assembly (a single 1/4"/20 screw is not an exceptionally solid way to mount a camera over 4 lbs.)

I forgot to mention what the modification was: my camera is over 4 pounds, so I have a large mount on the top. I only kept the one screw but I added a large base platform and covered it in specialized camera gripping mega material. (electrical tape) Aluminum tubing would be nice, though.

if you want to see something interesting and fun (i hope) - connected with 14$ steadycam - take a look:

http://www.astercity.net/%7Etarasuma/7$_stabilizer_page.html

but if you REALLY want to see REAL working LEGO stabilizer go here:

http://www.astercity.net/~tarasuma/lego_stabilizer_page.html

have fun!!!

filip

As funny as the $7.00 stabilizer is, the most impressive part of the site is your "y" stabilizer and your dolly, both of which look really slick and definitely not homemade.
nice work.
And wow this is an old thread!

thank you michael!

filip

Charles isn't kidding about the weight. I've used a couple of thse cheaper stabilizers. With no arm and vest to hold the weight (not that those are particularly light either) you'd be amazed how fast your arm turns to jello holding that thing up.

Filip,


How do you solve the gimbal piece in your Y support?



Carlos

Hi Filip,

That thing is freakin' great. I wish I'd though of it! Who cares what it looks like as long as it does the job. If you'd like to seem my rig in action, here's the link:

http://dvcamerarigs.com/stabilizermovie.html

It's not my arm that gives out, but my legs! I'm completely shot by the time I reach the top of the 2nd flight of stairs! Of course mine costs around $50 to build, but uses aluminum so it's a lot lighter than the "$14 dollar steadicam" (not to mention it has a gimbal).

Dan
www.DVcameraRigs.com

<<<-- Originally posted by Carlos E. Martinez : Filip,


How do you solve the gimbal piece in your Y support? Carlos -->>>

i beleive - i had a luck - in my neighborhood there is locksmith (i'm not sure is this is a proper english name) and he has mill ant lathe, so making different things is much easier than normally - like i.e. in your own garage...
he is 65, but has young spirit!
i just made drawings and after a few attempts everything was done. he is very precise guy, and since he went crazy about all these things connected with the movies (in his youth he was crazy about photography), he insist to do everything properly. so after we finished all lathe/mill works, i decided to find a place where i can anodize my rig. and that's it.

gimbal itself is made with 4 bearings: one big one, one middle one - for the part which you are keeping in your hand, and two small ones on both sides - outside of that big one. and this is more or less similar to all "normal" stabilizers gimbal with three axis freedom. but this is - in my opinion - solution which is hardly made in garage without at least lathe.

definitelly simpler solution is something which i tryed before. maybe you do not need really simple and somehow limited gimbal but if you do - take a look at one specific part shown here

http://www.astercity.net/%7Etarasuma/7$_stabilizer_page.html

take a closer look on that "weight" element here. you can see that my "weight" element was nothing else but also gimbal (scroll down to see biger picture) - but i bought one in normal shop. i thought that with that specific gimbal i can acheive same 3 axis movement also. in theory that was true, but with limited amount of movement in 3 axis in practice.

the movement is not as big as with real"pro" gimbal, but it's finished peace - ready made. in some circumstances it works VERY well. if you have time to look in different metal /second hand shops - try to find it. it's worth at least a try.
if you (or anyone) need/want more detailed photos of gimbal i can send you directly to your mail. just give me an e-mail.
any additional questions are of course wellcome.

thank you
filip

<<<-- Originally posted by Dan Selakovich : Hi Filip,

That thing is freakin' great. -->>>

thank you Dan,

as i understand - you are talking about my 7$ steadypoor "system" or something different? yes?


filip

Hi Filip--yep I'm talking about your $7 dollar rig!

Dan
www.DVcameraRigs.com

that lego stabilazor is really WICKED!

I have some lego parts in my house.

Jose,


he, he - try it for yourself! i had lot of fun building mine.
in my opinion this was the first FUNCTIONAL lego stabilizer on this planet! so you can make second one.

if you success - send a link to see how it looks.

filip

p.s.

maybe there is place to have special thread with lego stabilizers ;)

mmm...well...

Back in the late 80's/early 90's, before this crazy internet thing, we Steadicam folk had a simple printed newsletter for a few years. There were pictures of a young lad named David Emmerichs proudly holding up his working miniature Steadicam arm made out of Lego. He built it to show his parents how it worked because owning a real Steadicam was just a pipe dream for him then.

And whatever happened to him? Try an IMDB search...

well...

Charles,

it looks that i was not right. my foult.

i never saw such a thnig (which does not mean that that thing doesn't exist).

and checked David Emmerichs info... hm... no comments.

but anyhow - maybe this (my) lego steadycam was good point to start?

all the best

filip

p.s.

so - charles - with your knowledge - do you think that i can say that my lego stabilizer is (at least un-documented) SECOND "rig" on this planet made with lego? :)))))

I used to love lego as a kid, if only I kept it all I could start my steadicam career for much less!

Anyway, as this is my first post, and there isn't a dedicated thread to praising Charles, may I just say when I found out that the steadicam operator of probably the best show on TV, The West Wing (and the steadicam work on it makes the show in my opinion), I knew we were in capable hands :) The fact you were born over these shores never hurts either ;)

I was HUGE on Lego myself. Still miss those Saturday afternoons where I'd dump out the big box on the floor and invent stuff all day long. I even have a family connection--my uncle Seymour was a pioneer in marrying computers with physical learning, created a fantastic program in the '80's where grade school kids could build things with the Lego motors and automate them via computers. The Lego folks named their now-commercially available version of all this "Mindstorms" in honor of his seminal book on the topic. Not that I got any Lego bits out of the deal, mind you!

Thanks for the nod James, but I should point out that my involvement on "The West Wing" was during the first season, so unless you are watching those on DVD, you're seeing someone else's work. It's currently being handled by a talented gent named Chad Persons, great op (and good initials, too!). It was an intense show to work on--oh, those hallways!

Heh, i've only seen seasons 1 and 2 (i refuse to watch the show out of order in anyway, so will have to get season 3 before i watch any on tv.) so it will have been mainly your work i've seen. i think the movement thru the hallways with characters moving in and out of the sequence is fantastic, the timing is incredible on it.

I finally decided to print out Johnny's (http://www-2.cs.cmu.edu/~johnny/steadycam/) instructions on how to build the $14 steadycam.

It took a quick trip to a couple of well known hardware stores and a third trip to a sports store and I had everything I needed to make it. I spent $20 on the parts and opted to spend another $20 for a decent vise. BTW, count on getting the vise because it'll make things go easier and faster for you.

It took probably 30 mins to build it. His instructions are very easy to understand and well laid out.....

I have a GL2 and was able to screw it onto the steadycam no problem. I used a fairly large washer and it held the camera very well. I was prepared to build a platform for the GL2 to sit on...but didn't have to.

I needed the steadycam because my next short is allmost entirely one long continuous shot of an actress walking down a sidewalk. The up & down, side to side jumping from my shoulder harness was not going to cut it. I looked at some test footage with that shoulder harness and I felt seasick..... :)

I shot some test footage yesterday with the $14 steadycam and I was very impressed. I used the recommended 2.5lb weight on the bottom of the steadycam, but I'm going to try a 5lb weight later today to balance out the weight up top with the GL2. I also saw an updated article from the link above where Johnny recommends using a weight on the end of the handle to minimize side to side swaying. I think I'll try that. I was rather suprised that I had to work on learning to reduce that movement rather than up and down swaying...

I'll practice using the steadycam way more this week and see how it goes.....

I'd recommend this to any of my fellow no budget filmmakers out there. It is heavy....but if it's worth it to you getting that smooth shot, what do you have to lose, IMHO.

I too purchased and assembled the famous $14 steady cam. As a newbe, I need some documentation on how to use it most effectively. Does anyone have any suggestions? Don

I too purchased and assembled the famous $14 steady cam. As a newbe, I need some documentation on how to use it most effectively. Does anyone have any suggestions? Don

Don,

Buy some good muscle rub! I just used the $14 steadycam and man, my arms are tired. I used heavier weights on the base and arm. They certainly helped with the up and down and side to side sway that can come with this rig. I was happy in the end with my results though.....

As for advice on using it...I just got out and practiced with it. I taught myself to keep the rig as steady as I could & my muscles would allow!. I think repetition is the best practice here.

:)

Hi,
I plan to build this thing, and i have one question before i start working.

I have an Optura Xi, and as some of you may know, the tripod mount of the Xi is off center (the mount hole is near the lens towards the front of the "long shaped" camera body).

will that affect balancing issues with the $14 steadicam?

also, would it be possible to get a gimbal handle? sort of like the glidecam
2000 or 4000 handle. is it possible for me to buy the handle somewhere?

thanks

With that bar stickingout the side of th post of this design, just forget about it ever beeing in ballance, regardless of what camera you put on it.

..And it woudlnb't work with a gimble.. becuse it coudl never be ballanced.


- Mikko

Hi,
I plan to build this thing, and i have one question before i start working.

I have an Optura Xi, and as some of you may know, the tripod mount of the Xi is off center (the mount hole is near the lens towards the front of the "long shaped" camera body).

will that affect balancing issues with the $14 steadicam?

also, would it be possible to get a gimbal handle? sort of like the glidecam
2000 or 4000 handle. is it possible for me to buy the handle somewhere?

thanks

Highly unlikely. At that point you're getting into the $100 realm, and you're gonna have to do some homebuilding to get there. If you do really want a Gimbal, and you are prepared to spend some money, let me know, I have a book of plans for my very simple, but still reasonably good stabilizer.

Well, right now, im more concerned with wheather or not my Xi will properly work on this thing. Maybe it wont acheive perfect balance as Mikko has suggested, but I plan not to incorporate the side bar.

So will that make it better?

I would love to have a gimbal and all, but I could live without it, since im VERY short on budget. This 14$ steadicam is realli wut i can only afford, and I was in need of a stabilizer for a while.

thanks for the info

If I were on a budget, I'd use just a pole, with the weight on the bottom, and a flange on top, connected to a piece of wood with a hole drilled in it farther back for proper balance, and then some foam wrapped around the post about 3/4 of the way up. Hold it by the foam and you should have a decent stabilizer.

Hey tom, just for kicks, throw out a simple web page with that design on it, and call it the $13 Steadicam... ...it's a much more viable design than the $14 handle.
;-)

- Mikko

Hey, Tom, could u sorta elaborate on ur budget steadicam?

btw, wuts a flange??

thanks

Boom. The... Uh... Under $20 Stabilizer!

http://home.comcast.net/~tomthemacman/steadiplans.jpg

There ya go! Want more? Buy my book!

http://cafepress.com/tomsstabilizer

Thanks a lot for the great illustration. i can see how to balance the Xi now.

just have the mount towards the front....

why couldnt i have thought of that??

The skill to instantly design things comes with having spent close to 2 years designing and building homebuilt stabilizers.

Boom. The... Uh... Under $20 Stabilizer!

http://home.comcast.net/~tomthemacman/steadiplans.jpg

There ya go! Want more? Buy my book!

http://cafepress.com/tomsstabilizer

There you go, a < AUS$20 version of the steadytracker lite I just paid > AUS$320 for.