Ok , I’m ready to pull the trigger and get this camera and need some extra bit’s and pieces.
This is what I’m thinking.

SinghRay Vari ND
Hoodloupe
Magic Lantern
JuiceLink or something similar
Follow Focus “maybe”
Media cards
Shoulder mount

Is there anything else I’m missing?

extra battery, better two

ummmm. lenses :)

If we assume that Simon is getting the 5D Mk. II kit which includes the 24-105mm L IS lens, it just might be the only lens he'll need for awhile.

Simon:

A tip that will save you money. Forgo the Singh-Ray and get the Fader ND from Ebay. I had the Singh-Ray, got together with Nigel Barker from this forum for some comparison and we came to the conclusion that the Singh-Ray is not worth almost four times the money over the no name Fader ND.

I sold my Singh-Ray and ordered three Fader NDs for the same money.

Dan

Simon:

Matte Box (Maybe)
High quality tripod and head (you will be frustrated if all you can do is handheld, it gets old and the 5D MKII is a total tripod camera, it gets better results on a tripod IMHO, it is difficult to shoot really smooth hand held).
Extra battery
Carrying case or bag (I like the Think Tank Speed Demon)
Circular Polarizer
ND Grads

Good luck,

Dan

Get two batteries and buy the bg-e6 battery grip. I love it, and... It makes your camera look like a tank. UV filter for your lens, so don't scratch the lens is another thing I'd look into.

If editing on the PC, you'll want Cineform NeoScene.

If you want to do timelapse videos, you'll want the Aputure AP-TR3C timer.

Regarding the filters, you might want to go with 77mm and buy the needed step up sizes. That covers all but the small number of 82mm lenses on the market.

1. re: Juiced Link, or similar: I love my CX 231, and ou won't find anything else like Juiced Link with preamps that is camera mountable. However Juiced Link is just at the edge of its limits on this camera, and if you are going off camera, use of something like a Sign ENG 44 will give you plenty of preamp boost to work with. To get it to camera you can use mic out on mini plugs, or use a cheap non-powered XLR adapter to get balanced line to the camera. Remember, you need to run mic level to the camera.

2. Hoodloupe works great, and I actually built my own version, but you will find that shooting at other than eye level, you are going to need a monitor. I have a little LCD4Video 7" monitor that does a decent job. It is SD. You set it for 4:3, and you won't have any change occur when you start shooting. Others are using simple SD DVD players with AV input, in a similar manner. HDMI out has this crazy change over from HD to SD output when camera rolls. There is lag from start. And since it only give you an SD signal when rolling, I have actually used a 19 inch HD monitor, but fed it with composite SD, setting it to 4:3 for best result. If you stay HDMI, you will need a miniplug HDMI cable from camera to a likely standard HDMI cable for the Monitor.

3. John is right, you can get a cheap Chinese time lapse timer, on Ebay. I shout this with it: http://www.vimeo.com/5904387

4. Nobody has mentioned cheap batteries. They are not chipped, so when you start camera, you have to go through acceptance process to use them, and their level cannot be monitored. But at real price of about $ 15 delivered, they are great alternative. They don't as of this writing, work with Magic Lantern, though..

4. Nobody has mentioned cheap batteries. They are not chipped, so when you start camera, you have to go through acceptance process to use them, and their level cannot be monitored. But at real price of about $ 15 delivered, they are great alternative. They don't as of this writing, work with Magic Lantern, though..

Which batteries or brands have you used? We purchased a few that were 50% cheaper than the OEM LP-E6s but still considerably more than $15. They work great and from what I can tell, last just as long as our Canon branded ones.

bought mine on ebay... combo with charger, and then some alone... I will have to dig around for brand name. But they have a lot listed there....

...you can get a cheap Chinese time lapse timer, on Ebay.

bought mine on ebay... combo with charger, and then some alone... I will have to dig around for brand name.

Just an FYI, it's okay to post Ebay links to the board (as long as they're vouched for by a DVi regular).

Don't rely on the audio of the 5D specially if your using lens w/image stabilizer, the internal mic picks up all the motor noise. I use the Tascam DR100 with the Rode NTG 2, and Im happy with it's result.

Sorry that post seemed a bit thin as I posted late last night.

The lens I'm going with is the 24-70mm f2.8 Canon if It's still in stock.
I have and EX1 so I have a suitable tripod.

Cheers

Yeah, the internal mic is only good as a track to sync to. Even manually focusing with a non-IS lens can sound like a gravel truck.

The recording circuit isn't bad though. As long as you use an external mic, an active preamp with a hot signal, and Magic Lantern firmware for overriding the automatic level control, the results can be surprisingly clean.

Sorry that post seemed a bit thin as I posted late last night.

The lens I'm going with is the 24-70mm f2.8 Canon if It's still in stock.
I have and EX1 so I have a suitable tripod.

Cheers

That is my primary lens, back by a 70-200 2.8 IS for long shots, this lens really gives outstanding images, but the 24mm is totally useless when using the Fader ND. Thus being said I glued the Fader ND to my 70-200. Oh! and I use a 82mm Metal Tele -Lens Hood, since there's no way of using Canon hoods.

but the 24mm is totally useless when using the Fader ND.In what way is it totally useless? I use a Fader ND on both a 24mm F1.4L & a 24-105mm F4L & it is great.

That is my primary lens, back by a 70-200 2.8 IS for long shots, this lens really gives outstanding images, but the 24mm is totally useless when using the Fader ND. Thus being said I glued the Fader ND to my 70-200. Oh! and I use a 82mm Metal Tele -Lens Hood, since there's no way of using Canon hoods.


I have the lens hood mounted and the vignettes was so huge, but is fine when the hood is not mounted. I will rephrase this that the 24mm is useless when using Fader ND w/lens hood mounted.

Nigel:

I am happy to report that I barely get any vignetting with the Fader ND on the Canon 17-40 f4 L at 17mm. The vignetting is more noticeable on the screen, but it almost all occurs in the bars on the screen. I need to shoot some tests and view on a real HD screen to check the corners.

At 18 or 19mm, definitely no vignetting. My first Fader ND was broken, I am waiting for Boniface to send the replacement and a 58mm version for the 70-300 f4-5.6 IS. They arrive next week.

Dan