I just noticed a new version of the Canon On Cam Light VL-10LI2 in the accesories list. Looking at the pic it appears identical to the previous version, VL0Li.
At USA CAnon's site This last is under XL2, while the new is under the new cams. But what's the difference between them? looks the same to me....

Alexis

Since it is a cold shoe, what external light models would be recommended for it and I would assume that Canon would sell the batteries for these external lights, since the A1 will not power it?
thanks
Jerry

I removed two replies to Jerry's question because they either linked or recommended vendors that are not sponsors of DVi. Please review the sponsor page (http://www.dvinfo.net/sponsors/index.php) for the reason this is policy, as well as a list of top-notch businesses who ARE DVi sponsors. Thanks.

I can understand that but would it have been ok, just to edit out the link and leave the models there? that was what I was asking for what models/brands?

Thanks
Jerry.

My fault, mea culpa. I just named a place. Could just as easily have said B&H. Check their web site for on camera lights. There are lots of different ones in a big price spread.

Thanks Bill.

I had not realized that the sony 10-20 would work I have one of those.


Which would lend to another question.

Since it is not a HOT shoe, is it a SMART shoe, like on the VX 2100?
thanks
Jerry

Jerry- are you not happy with it's low light video performance or just want to add better lighting to poor lighting?

Jerry- are you not happy with it's low light video performance or just want to add better lighting to poor lighting?
chuckling...I use it mostly for close up of daughter's bday and that type of thing.
Jerry

I was wondering if this cable: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=Search&A=details&Q=&sku=398096&is=REG&addedTroughType=search is suppose to power the IDX X3 light, and if it's pluggable to this camera's xlr microphone plug.
If not, how would I be able to use light with the camera? Could it be powered through the hot shoe?
Thanks.

That's a 4-pin cable and probably has to go to a separate battery pack.

The camera's XLR mic jacks are there for audio signal input only. They don't provide any power going out (well, there is a very slight amount of electrical output called "phantom power" if needed for certain types of older condenser mics). The XLR jacks on the camera are the three-pin variety, a common standard for the transfer of audio signals. The cable you're looking at in the link you've provided is a four-pin power cable. Never mind that an audio input jack isn't going to provide power for an OB light... the main thing is that a four-pin XLR power plug is not going to fit in a three-pin XLR audio jack.

Nor will you find any power at the accessory shoe mount of the XH A1 or G1. It is a "cold shoe" without power. It will communicate with a Canon EOS photo flash, but that's about it.

The way to provide power to this light is from any of a variety of compatible external battery packs, which can be mounted on or near the camera, or your tripod, stabilizer or shoulder support, or on your person.

The way to provide power to this light is from any of a variety of compatible external battery packs, which can be mounted on or near the camera, or your tripod, stabilizer or shoulder support, or on your person.

Thanks! I'll be looking for those external battery packs...

This caught me by suprise, this camera does not have a hole to mount a stud for camera light, how do you guys mount a light that use a stud?

Never mind, I found an adapter for it.

Khoi -- any first impressions re: lowlight performance, etc.?

My first impression side by side with the Z1 using the same monitor is that under good to fair light it is better much much sharper but when the light level is lower then the Z1 is better, A1 is not as clean as Z1 when gain up, the A1 has 2 type of noise reduction, the first one is useless unless you taking still picture or if you want some trails effects, the second is what you want to use for moving video and it has 3 level, the first 2 level works but still not as clean as Z1, the 3rd level is equal to Z1 but then the picture becomes softer than Z1, I also adjust coring and some other stuff but it is still grainier than Z1 under low light. I think the main reason is because you don't have as much gain level increment as the Z1, it goes from -3db, 0db,+3,+6,+12,+18, at 12db it has more noise than the Sony at 18db but also brighter, I can live with 6db gain noise but I am hesitate to go to 12db gain and so that is why I think Z1 is better under low low light level. I was also trying to use auto gain, hoping that depend on certain light level the gain will fall some where between +6db and +12db where it did not have a setting for, because if you shoot full manual and let say that you are getting a proper exposure at all wide with f1.6 and shutter at 60th and gain at 6db, now if you zoom all the way in, the f stop will automatic closer down to f3.4, now that would be to dark, it might only needs a 3db gain or so to get an acceptable picture, but this camera does not have a gain limit, it jump all the way up to 18db or look like to me 36db gain noise on Z1 and to me that is noise city at 18db and I would not ever use it on this camera but I feel very comfortable using 18db with Z1. I also thinks the LCD sucks big time, I can not get an accurate color display on it like I am with the Z1, it seems a little yellow and quick to have hot spot but when I look at my 1080p monitor then it is perfect and so you don't really know exactly what you are getting, I try to adjust the LCD with color bar, try to match the color to my editing monitor so that way I will know what I am getting on the field but I can not. The zoom rocker is also so small and hard to get use to after using the Z1 for so long, the picture quality is definetly better than the Z1 under good to fair light, but under extreme low light then I think I have to choose the Z1, but take it with the grain of salt, I only have time to play with for 5hrs before I took it on a shoot, I'm sure I will get better with it the more I use it, I will keep it for sure, I like the 20X zoom, I can't get the same depth of field with the Z1 as I am with the A1, that is what I missed most going from a 1/2 chips camera to a 1/3 chips, I like the audio control, audio display all the time even in auto, I like the zoom speed control dial.
I think the A1 is a great camera if you have time to adjust, but if you shoot run and gun type of work, it is harder to get a good picture with it so you better be good and know the camera well to get a good picture, you have 9 custom preset and you better program it for every situation.

Khoi: many thanks for that in-depth impression, let me know if your opinion changes at all as you continue to use the camera. I have to make a decision on a camera by next week ...

I've been using the cinegamma 1 setup (is that what it's called--I don't have the camera with me at the moment). I tweaked that just a bit, taking down the sharpness one point and pressing the blacks a bit. That setup, shooting 24F works for me for everything. There's no need to go change camera setup when you're on location--that would be like switching film stocks.

The LCD is smaller than the Z1's, but it is high enough resolution to be quite useful. Adjust it and your viewfinder to color bars and that will help you out with exposure in a run and gun situation. You can't really use an LCD monitor to judge color accurately, but this one is pretty close, I've found. I think the Z1 is cleaner when using high gain but the A1 is very useable. My initial feeling in comparing it with a Z1 (not side by side) is that in a situation where the A1 might require a +6db gain, the Z1 probably will want a +12, but the +12 of the Z1 will look about as good as the +6 on the A1. That's not a direct comparison, just an educated subjective feeling from experience with both cameras. I do think the Z1 is maybe a little more intutitve when you first get it, but once you learn the A1 there's no problem in quick shooting.

" My initial feeling in comparing it with a Z1 (not side by side) is that in a situation where the A1 might require a +6db gain, the Z1 probably will want a +12, but the +12 of the Z1 will look about as good as the +6 on the A1."

That is pretty good, you got that right even when you didn't compare it side by side, but since I do weddings, when shooting inside a church, we can only use available light and sometimes it is pretty dark, with Z1 sometims I have to go to +12 to +18db, and so with A1 that would have to be +6db to +12db, if only it has a +9db setting then I think it would beat the Z1 in low light quality/grain balance. BTW I compared everything at 60i cuz I'm shooting with the Z1 and FX1 multicamera shoot and Z1 and FX1 ain't got no 24P. I know 24P will offer even better low light performance but I can't use that right now until I made a complete switch over, so my FX1 is on sale if anybody wants a very good camera at a very good price. (-:

Could someone suggest a good on camera light for the A1? Thanks!

Doug D.

Hey Doug, try this link. http://dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?t=84963

I am looking for a light to mount on top of the camera for interviews in a setting where I cannot setup any other lights. I just talked to someone where I bought the XH G1 and he suggested the Canon VL-10LI, but after looking online, it doesn't seem to be very powerful.

Does anyone have any suggestions for a light to purchase?

Thanks,
Mark

How much light to you feel you need? What distance from the camcorder will the talent be?

I use the Dayled deluxe by Vidled and I am very happy with it.

I will be using the light to do interviews "Vox Pop", so the subjects will be fairly close to the camera, aprox. 3 to 5 feet.

Thanks for the suggestions!

MArk

I use a bike light -- 5 or 8 LEDs -- with diffusion and a pale amber gel (they are naturally on the blue side of daylight balanced)

its attached to the base of the mic mount atop the hot shoe (ie below the mic)

at 3-5 feet, its enough to make an interview possible without overwhelming the subjects eyes

The weight is minimal, they last forever, and they don't cost too much ...

i use this with my A1 and couldn't be happier. well-built, highly controllable, good looking light. used it to conduct interviews in the most horrendous lighting environments.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=Search&A=details&Q=&sku=475084&is=REG&addedTroughType=search

cheaper than litepanels. varizoom makes a similar model, but i preferred the build of the sony.

Thanks Meryem,
What does it use for power? It looks a bit big, is it cumbersome?
Mark

i use this with my A1 and couldn't be happier. well-built, highly controllable, good looking light. used it to conduct interviews in the most horrendous lighting environments.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=Search&A=details&Q=&sku=475084&is=REG&addedTroughType=search

cheaper than litepanels. varizoom makes a similar model, but i preferred the build of the sony.

good question....it uses sony "L" series batteries (which i already have, since i have an FX-1...). that might add to the expense quite a bit. it's not that cumbersome, but it does take up your shoe, so if you have a wireless mic, you'll have to velcro it elsewhere. or mount the light elsewhere. it's not that heavy and it is pretty well-balanced, with the battery. i have shot this light and the A1 using a 561B monopod. very nice build, actually.

I think I am going to go with the VL-1-Li :

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=144312&is=REG

I was talking with the salesperson where I bought the XH G1, and he said it should be sufficient, that lights with too much wattage will just create overexposed areas. This light also uses the same batteries as the camera so they can be re-charged with the recharger that came with the camera.

Mark

I think I am going to go with the VL-1-Li :

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=144312&is=REG

I was talking with the salesperson where I bought the XH G1, and he said it should be sufficient, that lights with too much wattage will just create overexposed areas. This light also uses the same batteries as the camera so they can be re-charged with the recharger that came with the camera.

Mark

The saleman doesn't know what he is talking about, if that is the case you better not shoot outdoor because the sun has alot more wattage than that 10watts light. Get something that you can control the output, see what is important to you as far as battery or output, LED use less power but it is weak, halogen is brighter but use more power therefore needs more battery, I'm waiting for the Zylight Z90 to come out and see how it does, that seems to be the only one that would fit my need so far beside the LitePanel, although I need to check the Sony LED, I just don't know how it would blend in with tunsten light since it is an outdoor temperature. I"m currently using frezzi and it is great, just don't want to carry so much battery anymore.
I was hoping for Meryem to post a few pict of his light in action so I can see. hint hint (-:

I am not so pleased the XH-A1 doesn't provide the Canon Advance Accessory Shoe invented. I need a small light like the Canon VL-3 so I can light an near object such as an interview. The Canon VL-10 is too bright for the purpose causing the object looks all washed out.

I found this product that rated also 3-Watt just like the VL-3. It works great. It's also very cheap too!

http://www.simaproducts.com/products/product_detail.php?product_id=105

However, if you ordered from their web site, you will also need to call them. Otherwise, they will ship you the SL-9X which is the silver body color version.

that's a handy little light. thanks for the heads up on this taky.
i'm going to pick one up.

I'm using the A1 on the Merlin. Currently also using a Vitacon WA lens which is pretty heavy. I'm going to change it to a 16X9 inc or other light weight WA lens in future. Will be fixing a Rode NTG-1 mic too.

I am wondering what light is suitable to be used on the A1? Taking into account all the accessories, I think it is going to max out my metal Gimbal Merlin capabilities, so need some lightweight lighting. Any recommendation? :)

go and check out red eye for the W.A lens and vidled lights. It think it might fit the weight of the merlin

Is there any on camera light that get power from the XLR on A1? Is it even possible? I noticed all the XLR lights are 4 pins.

The XLRs on the camera are audio inputs only. You'll need a battery belt or battery pack with the 4 pin power cable.

That's what I thought so too! thanks for clarifying.

I have had a Mini-Cool light for years which was fine for 4x3, but now it is just not wide enough for 16x9. Lite panels are too expensive and the wrong color temperature since most of my shooting is indoors. Other LED lights don't seem to have the throw of incandescents.

Is there an incandescent which covers the whole wide frame evenly?

Man, I hate to see a post for help with no reply.

I don't know if it helps you or not, but I've got the VL-10li II video light from Canon and I am pretty happy with it. But I don't know the area you are trying to cover. I do product installations and really just need to light the area of interest (engine compartment, underneath a truck, in the trunk of a car.)

Those are my two cents.

I use the Sachtler Reporter with the spot feature and dimmer. Looks "cool" also.

I used to have the dedicated Canon light on my XL2, but I sold it with the camera, because I found the beam too narrow. I'm using a Bebop light now on my XH-A1, with a seperate Pro-X battery. It has barn doors & the daylight filter. Works great.

I also use the VL-10li, it's not amazing, but uses the same battery as the camera which comes in helpful.

Hi,
I use a Sunpak RL20. It is cheap and very bright, however the short battery life mean you might need a couple of them. (I don't know if they have replaceable batteries)
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/52959-REG/Sunpak_55RL_RL_20_Readylite_15_Watt.html

-Steve

I am using two VL-10 together mounted on a flash bracket that takes 2 accessoires side by side on the top bar. It works very well especially in dim hotel ballroom.

For close up interview purpose, I use LP Micro. The dimmer is great.

I have had a Mini-Cool light for years which was fine for 4x3, but now it is just not wide enough for 16x9.

You really only need a wider degree bulb. Lamps Plus has a Sylvania MR16 bulb that's 50 watts with a 60 degree wide beam. No more spottyness with 16x9 :)

http://www.lampsplus.com/products/s_60-degree/?lpqsv_cid=114

I use the Swit LED light. It is dimmable, has low battery requirements (no belt), has indoor and outdoor color correction built-in, has adapters for whatever battery you use or you can run it on 12v (if you get that version).

http://www.swit.us/on-camera-led-lights.html

The only bummer is the XHA1 puts the playback controls in the hand grip so I couldn't use the clamp that came with the adapter. I removed the clamp and glued foam on the back side of the adpater and straped it to my handle.

I use Anton Bauer's ElipZ light. I have the ElipZ battery as well so the setup works well. At work, we have the Litepanel micro (the cheapest one they do) and it is nice, but I find that it is glaringly bright without diffusion. I used some heavy diffusion paper, but need to step that down a bit since it is too much. The pluses of the Litepanel are that it works on AA batteries and that it is dimmable.

Anyone using, and digging Zylight(s). Pricey, but interesting. They sort of seem to be the Nikon SB-800 of on (and off) camera video lights.

Jonathan

I use the Litepanel Micro. I like it but it's built flimsy for the price.