Just recently got a used Glidecam 2K off of Ebay for my GL2 and it came without balancing instructions. From what I've gathered from some discussion, once y and z axis are balanced, there should be a 2 sec. drop from the horiz to vert. Is this right? Seems awfully top heavy. Anyone have some advice on this?

Also, seems like at low angles the handle clunks into the camera platform. Seems the gimble is too close to the platform. Can this be adjusted or do I have to train myself to avoid it?

Thanks in advance,

Tom

The "2 sec drop" time is correct, Tom. By adjusting the amount/position of the washer weights and the extension of the main post you should be able to achieve this after some practice.

Yes, you'll need to avoid low positions in which the handle is approaching a 90 deg angle with the post. There are low-shooting configurations for professional rigs that enable the shooter to make shots nearly on the ground. I'm not aware of any such conversion for the handheld G2K.

Tom:

What Ken said--and for the record, a top-heavy rig will flip over and end up upside down. A neutral rig will have an "infinite" drop time, in other words it will just remain horizontal when the drop test is applied. Slightly bottom-heavy is the ticket, which is a 2 to 3 second drop time.

Thanks for your responses. It seems from trying to achieve the 2 sec drop, I am very close to neutral which makes me nervous in the flip over scenario. That said, what should the final adjustment be - weights or extension? The fine tuning seems to work better with the extension since the washers (even small ones) make a big difference.

I now understand the 'you need a strong back' comments in other posts. Its the only time I've been glad to own a GL2 over an XL1. :)

Tom

Tom,

Extension is better for fine tuning as you noticed, and it doesn't add any weight which is better for fatigue reasons.

Tom,
As a fellow G2K owner I recommend that you bite the bullet for the arm brace if you've not already done so. It really helps to redistribute the load from your wrist/forearm to your bicep and shoulder. The off-center gimbal design of the G2K (-vs- the on-center design of the Steadicam JR) tends to place more stress on the wrist than the JR due to an increased moment arm.

Tom,

There's an "S" shaped bar that comes with the Glidecam that allows you to drop it lower...actually, two sizes of "S" bars...one a bit longer than the other.

Thanks again for the advice. I'm working on Cody Deegan's plans for an arm and vest for support. That was one reason I went with the G2K over the Jr. Will post some footage when project is complete.

Tom

John, the S-shaped bars to which you are refering are for the vest-mounted rigs. Stay tuned though, some much needed accesories for the hand held stabilizers (including a low-mode kit) are on the horizon.

Thanks Casey. Can't wait for the accessories.