Hi!

I have a question: my XL-1 has just returned from its first yearly maintenance and I now suddenly have some problems with it.
The letters in the viewfinder are now in bright pink or bright red, while the REC / PAUSE letters and the symbol for the tape are black (negative?).
Also, the first tape I shot with it produced no sound and had the left 1/4th of the picture gray, with the rest of the image full of digital artefacts.
I shot two more tapes after that and they are OK.
Before I go back to Canon (it has been serviced in Barcelona, Spain and I don't know if these people had ever seen an XL-1 before in their lives…) I would like to hear if anyone has experienced anything like this…
Thanks..

Dan.

I am using the MGI VideoWave III capture software that came with my Sony VAIO computer. It has a direct firewire input/output support function. I have been starting capture manually using the controls in the software screen. I have been editing the files using Adobe Premier 5.1.

When I play the files back into the XL1s I can see no degradation of image or audio quality. The edited files are indistinguishable from the orig. recording.

G'day from Australia. I've been using an XL1 but to be perfectly honest I wouldn't buy one, because of the lens. Apart from the other problems it is impossible to focus on telephoto, zoom out, start the shot to finish in close, and still retain focus. And as you zoom with a large aperture, you can see the focus hunting around as though the lens isn't a true zoom and they're trying to make up for it with autofocus.

Since I haven't yet read any reports on the focus accuracy of the new lens, and since the Canon site has nothing, I'd just like to ask if anyone has heard anything on whether they've fixed the focus problems with the new lens.

I know there's a manual lens but the attraction of the electronic lens is the steady shot function.

Also when and if I buy it would be with the B&W finder, not the colour one. Does anyone know if Canon intend to offer a pro kit with the B&W finder?

What are good techniques to minimize aliasing? What would be the proper lighting, settings, filters, etc.? Would I have to sacrifice quality resolution?

Are there software programs that help?

I'm looking for video stabilizer efficient on rough areas (mainly on volcanoes) for an XL1. Which manufacturers, where to buy it, any ideas about a good price ?

Thank in Advance
Pierre

I have been doing a lot of research into some of the more affordable steadicam type rigs and I was wondering if anyone out there has had a chance to use any of them. I am new at this business and I have just purchased an xl1s camera, however even though I may eventually need some type of Pod (tri/mono) I will need something to move about with. I have narrowed down my search to these models however if anyone else out there has a better option, I am open minded.
I am just needing something as versatile enough to be able to be applied to as many applications as possible, meaning no matter what type of shooting I am doing, I would be proud to own so-so and so rig.

Nice Case.
http://www.fast-mhz.com/XL1/pelican.htm

Mark

Hello World!

Is someone out there using the 0.6x fixed focal WideAngle adapter (PWA06X72) from cavision? Is the quality compareable to the optex or century w/a adapters?

Would be great, if you could tell me your experiences.

Many thanks and peaceful x-mas from Hamburg,

Sebastian

I have my cammera since 1998. And I never have problems till this year. Specially in some tapes the image shows constant little drops in the images. But then I proove whit another tape and the images are perfect. Thats when I say: it is the tape, so I never buy anny one more in the same store. After a few hours of recording the problem appear again, whit a tape bought in a different place. I've try the sony cleaning tape a few times and the problem seams to dessappear. The big problem is that I live in Bogotá, Colombia, and here is no apropiated service for this camcorder. Thats wy I have the fallowing Question:

1. There is some test that I can do to figure out if the problem is about video heads?
2. There is some tip or advice that anybody can give me to solve this problem?
3. How much can cost a Canon Service revision and mantainance in the USA?
4. Could a simple mantainance solve the problems of my camera?
5. It is possible that it implies a change of the video heads?
6. how much it could cost?
7. how long this reapair could take?
8. How I do to e-mail canon Service.

There is no more questions. I hope that somebody could help. Thaks in advance.

From Colombia
Carlos mario Urrea

Exactly what the thread name says... I need to know the dimensions of the box right from the factory. Please let me know ASAP it is very important.

16" X 15.75" X 11.5" for the XL1S NTSC Kit

Ed Frazier

Thanks for the info...

I am shooting my first feature and am curious if anyone has used both the XL1 and the PAL version of the XL1. Has anyone transfered from the XL1 to film? I am considering trading in my XL1 for the DM-XL1 but am also confused about shooting in frame mode. My output has always been web or cd-rom, so this is completely new to me. I have read the articles by Chris Hauser on DV to 35 mm, but would like to hear from others that have gone through this process and managed to keep a full head of hair.

Anyone have any tips on setting up a Sony vx2000 so it's footage will blend with an xl1s at edit time? Decrease sharpness of Sony, etc.?
Thanks,
Dishcam

I'm thinking about investing in a Glidecam (www.glidecam.com) image stabilizer for use with my XL1 and GL1. I have 3 questions for anyone who has had experience with these devices.

1. Is there a remarkable difference between the V-8 model (the Mercedes model) and the 4000 Pro + Body Pod model? It looks like both would handle the weight ranges of my cams but the V-8 looks like a more "engineered" product.

2. How much practice time would you anticipate I should expect to devote to getting the hang of either? (I'm reasonably coordinated and of medium build. Walking while chewing gum is no problem for me. <g>)

3. How is the quality of Glidecam's products?

Thanks in advance very much for any input you can provide.

Hi Ken,

Please use the search feature and enter "glidecam" -- there are at least three other Glidecam threads with about twenty-odd posts which might help you.

Thanks very much, Chris. Will do.

What I see is that alaising is most evident when the picture is moving.

So a higher quality tripod and fluid head are most important. (+/- $350)

IMO I think that normal sharpness presets on the XL1S is going to be cleaner than with the sharpness dialed up. (Maybe midway is the best compromise?)

I find the times when I zoom to be a bit noisy, so I try to limit the zooms and the zoom speed.

BTW I've been trying the Varizoom RC units and do find that isolating my self physically from the camera (ie I'm not pressing the buttons ON the camera) during zooms to help. I'm not sure yet if I prefer the RCs to be on the tripod handle or in my lap "loose (which is really! off the camera)?"

I also see less of it through the crappier composite signal. I bought a nicer TV and now see more flaws than I did when I had my old TV. The new TV picks up on detail better. Esp. through the s-video.

I recall reading an article, I think in the Watchdog, about adapting the XL1 for heaftier, longer-lasting batteries - I believe the article described Anton Bauer battery packs. I can't find the article but does anyone have any idea what works? I need batteries that last longer than the Canon and can be recharged relatively quickly. I know Anton Bauer has the QR-XL1C Battery Kit especially made for the XL1. Does anyone have any experience with this kit? How does it comapre to Canon's CH910 dual battery adapter?

Thank you in advance for any tips and sugestions.

Hi All,

Im about to make a switch to a XL1s as my main camera to shoot wedding videos.

My main concern is the lack of extended battery life that I have enjoyed with my VX2000e at present.

With the standard BP930 battery, how long does it last continuously in the field? Canon claims 90mins.. is this continuos shooting time or standby time?

How long will the BP945 last?

Are there any alternatives to using the Canon batteries? ie, 3rd party manufacturers?

How do you feel about the XL1s's low light performance on the dance floor, is it anywhere near as good as the Sony's or noisier?

Any comments are welcome :)

Regards,

Yeah, I've been doing a little reading on the net. The general advice seems to be keep the contrast within the 7.5 to 100 IRE range, adjusting when necessary, and and play with the depth of field, focusing on the foreground, blurring the background just a little. Does everybody agree with that?

I've been noticing that the picture out of the XL1s using the composite port has quite a significant amount of noise on it, regardless of the cable's quality or length.

The noise is stationary, like a transparently superimposed image of verticle banding.

Has anyone else noticed this? To get around this problem when copying to VHS tapes, I've been using my little Panasonic DS11 which outputs crystal clear.

Because of the nature of the noise I think it's more likely to be low quality output componants rather than noise induced into the cables... It's not REALLY bad, it's just annoying.

So far I havn't tested the SVHS connector as I don't have anything capable of taking it.

Paul

In my experience,
930 lasted an hour and 945 lasted an hour and half.

VX2000/PD-150's low light performance is better than XL1S'.

How much? I can't say exactly, but I think it is noticeable.
These two areas are the weak points of XL1S comparing to
VX2000/PD150.

Auto focus is not as quick and stable as VX200/PD150 either.

I still prefer the more natural color tone and manual control of XL1S.

Please look under the General Discussion section and look for the heading "Lenmar 6 hour batteries for XL1s for $100 - Any good? "

I received good advice from the people there.

Just curious,

What kind of TV are you using? My new TV looks very different than my old one. I think there are also certain settings built in to TVs that artificially add to the pic. Usually they work great with helping to view local TV but don't always help watching native sources like our nice cams.

Also, what are your sharpness and other presets at? Over +4 is shows a kind of static IMO. Gain too after +12.

good luck and keep us posted.

Well I'm using the AV input on the TV which should bypass all the RF stages in the TV an not taint the picture too much, but that aside, the Panasonic doesn't display the same artifacts.
It's quite bizzare.

I usually just have the sharpness on the factory default setting, and the gain set at -3dB (Gives the least noise).

The noise doesn't show up on the computer screen when I've firewired the video across.

I'm just glad the rest of the camera seems to work okay :)

my XL1s sounds terrible-

I'm using the MA-100 with two Shure 57's to record audio (these mics sound great with other gear). The mics are on stands several feet away, so I'm certain this is not the well documented motor noise issue.

The audio I'm getting has an unacceptable signal to noise ratio (a rather strong hiss). Unfortunately, I have not had the opportunity to play with another XL1s for comparison purposes. I have sent the camera back to Canon for an unrelated repair and asked them to look into the audio. They said nothing was wrong with it. I'm curious to know if any of you are in love with the audio you're getting. Or are the Shure 57's innapropriate for the XL1s?

How is the noise floor with no mic connected?
Try record some footage with no mic connected, capture it and check the noise floor levels. At the MIC asetting it should be on the order of 55-60 dB below max record level.

If the noise is OK with no mic connected, the noise is coming from the mic and/or leads.

I am considering buying a PAL version of XL1S.

I prefer PAL because it has more lines (625) than NTSC (525 lines), better color, better contrast and 25 fps vs. 30 fps.

My problem is I live in USA where NTSC is standard.

Where can I buy it? How does the warrenty work?

Do you think using PAL version in US is too much trouble and is not much noticeable gain in the picture quality?

Or is it worth to have PAL version?

Do I lose a lot in terms of picture quality on the conversion to
NTSC in case I need to convert?

Video is my hobby and I think I mostly view the images at
my PC monitor using Premire6.0, or at PAL monitor.

Hello everyone,

I've been following just about every thread and website that has current information on the XL1S....I don't own any DV cam at the moment but will likely buy the XL1S in a few days...I'm setup with a Macintosh G4 using Final Cut Pro as well as After Effects 5.0 etc....I've made a few small videos for web use in the past using a Sony Digital 8 and that's been my exposure into the realm of DV editing....i've got to say it's exciting and i'm hooked!

..needless to say i have a few questions i'm hoping someone here with the "S" model can elaborate on...here goes;

1.- I've read that the manual focus is not truly manual in that it's electronically controlled via servo- I've also read that it's inconsistent in speed and focus when using the manual setting- if I use the "auto" mode- how likely would the focusing system be in locking on a moving object assuming you pan along with that moving object- such as a hawk in flight- would the S be able to maintain focus lock on a moving subject of that kind? Will it follow the hawk if it flys away or towards the camera? This is very important to me as I was chosen by the NYC park Dept. to put together a photography show using my still images i've taken with a digital Nikon F5- i want to suppliment the presentation with video footage and am wondering if the S can maintain focus lock on a moving hawk.

2.- If I purchase the EF adapter and purchase an EOS lens will it focus automatically or strictly manually? I'm looking to do some long range videography with a 300 or 400mm lens due to it's 7.1 multiplier and just want to know if all focusing has to be done manually.

3.- Does video quality degrade when reusing the same DV tape- I plan on making a bulk purchase of DV tapes (eBay) but wonder about image degradation when re-using the DV tape- any info?

4. Panasonic DV tapes seem to be much less expensive than Sony or other makers- any reason for this- are the Panasonic's reputed to be inferior?

5. If i record using 4 channels on the audio- will the captured DV footage be larger in file size than that of 2 channel dv footage?

Thanks to the Watchdog and all of you who have submitted content- it's a great thing this "internet age"..

Have fun.

If you can afford, buy XL1S with manual lens at zgc.com.

I don't have any experience of shooting a moving object with the AF lens with XL1S. I am not qualified to answer your specific question. But, I still think XL1S' AF is not quite great comparing to SONY's. You need a good amount of light to prevent AF haunting (focus in and out in low light condition).
I do the following to avoid the AF haunting in low light:
Zoom in all the way and focus. Then turn off AF and zoom out.
In this way, the focus stays when I zoom out and in.

I don't see many reasons to zoom in/out frequently in my work.
But, you may need to focus fast and zoom in/out more often.
You really need to try XL1S yourself to find out.

Read the review on JVC AG-DVC200 and XL1 at www.zenera.com.
The reviewer talked about the focusing on a fast moving skater
with XL1 and JVC.

Panasonic MQ 60 $7-8 is good and is a dry lubricant DV tape vs. Sony's wet lub. B&H charges $7.99

You may consider getting PAL version.
It has a better vertical resolution(625 vs. NTSC 525 lines) and more color space( 4:2:0 vs. NTSC's 4:1:1)

The low-budget film makers in US use PAL version and copy their works to 35 mm film.

I live in US, NTSC country, but still want to buy PAL one.

You can order one at zgc.
You can not view PAL images on a NTSC TV set. But there are many pro quality monitors display either PAL or NTSC. Visit B&H.

Before you make a final decision, read Billup/s Digital Moviemaking.
You are going to learn a lot about DV and movie making.

Another vote for the Panasonic tapes. I've used both grades and typically use the MQ Master 63 min. series. I also use the full size Panasonic DV cassettes. They are excellent.

On two occasions, I've had an older archived Sony DVCAM full size cassette jam the DV2000 after sitting on the shelf for a year. That's never happened with the Panasonic. Might be just luck, or maybe the different lube is a factor.

Vic

Hi all,

After reading more and more about professional productions, XLR inputs are the way to go for professionl audio.

What is phantom power? Do microphones need additional power? Does the MA-200 give any power to the microphones? I would like to read some more info on professional audio, any sites that may help?

Regards,

The MA-200 does not supply phantom power to microphones but does use DC from the camera for internal circuits.

Ed Frazier

Some mics need additional power to operate their internal electronics-- it can be supplied by an audio mixer, or an in-line phantom power box. Some cameras will also supply this power-- the XL-1 will not, nor will the MA-200 as Ed mentioned. Same is true for the MA-100.

XLR cabling does not necessarily mean the need for phantom power -- it's determined by the requirements of the mic.

Vic

I took 16:9 format video and edited them in Adobe in which I can
view them in 16:9.

But, I can not view them in 16:9 mode in MS Media Player, or Quick Time player.

Do you know any video viewer that I can view 16:9 images?

Hi,

On another forum I found a pointer to a DV show in New York this February and I was debating whether to make the trip. Will the XL1S be shown off at this event?

http://www.dvnyc.com/

And, does Canon ever show both NTSC and PAL versions side by side at any of these expos?

Thank you.

Tim

Tim,

Canon USA is not exhibiting at this show. However some of their authorized dealers should be there. Locate me at the Canopus booth and we'll find an XL1S for you to get your hands on.

Canon does not show the PAL version at shows due to the hassles of transporting a PAL monitor (most often they don't even have NTSC monitors either). Besides, the majority of the public at large at these tradeshows are new to DV and new to the XL1, and they just wouldn't "get" what the PAL camera is for. It takes a trained eye to see any real difference in the image. Most folks would just notice the flicker of PAL and that's about it.

See you there,

I have an XL-1 for the past year and would like to do some editing on our computer with some software we bought. I can't seem to find...or don't understand...how to get connected and what I need in cables or adapters to get hooked up? Any help to push me in the right direction would be appreciated.

Without knowing what kind of computer you have and what operating system you're running, it's a little hard to give good advice.

Basically you need a FireWire card for your computer, and a FireWire cable that has a 6-pin connector at one end for this card and a 4-pin connector at the other end for the XL1.

You say you already have software, but you might want to consider the Canopus EZDV or Canopus Raptor at www.justedit.com -- these products include the hardware (capture cards), software and cables and are ready to install if you have the right motherboard and video card. Plus you'll need a hard drive of about 30 gigabytes or so, dedicated to video and audio storage.

It's a big topic. Try this link for some beginning advice:
http://www.videoguys.com/started.html -- hope this helps,

Don't forget that you need 1Gigabyte of hard disk space for every 5 minutes of DV footage captured into PC.

There is a good magazine called Computer Video which is based in England, but you are still able to get it in America, which has every thing you need to know about desktop editing and DV.

URL: http://www.computervideo.net/

But as Chris says, we need to know what platform you are going to be running it on.

Ed

I found flicker in my PAL video image which I created with XL1S PAL.

All the outdoor images and indoor images with a strong halogen
lights are OK with no flickers.

The images under florescent light, or a weak 75W tungsten
bulb show some flickers.

It is the PAL problem, not XL1's.

PAL has 25 fps vs NTSC's 30 fps.
In lower frame rate, you can see more flicker.
Film has even lower 24 fps.
Power cycle of 120v /60 is also contributed to flicker in US.
Europeans watch TV as much as americans do and they don't
complain about flicker. Their power is 220v/50

I am not an video expert, but I can see PAL images have more details and better color representation comparing to NTSC images from XL1S NTSC.

I can view PAL images on Adobe Premire with some image degradation and the $460 13" JVC TMH 1375SU multi-format monitor with no image degradation.

Most people in US would not want all the hassle to deal
with PAL image, such as buying a PAL monitor and converting
to NTSC in which the video quality is degraded somewhat.

This is my hobby and I don't need to convert my PAL image to
NTSC. I would give my PAL image to my friends in AVI, or Quick TIme format. Computer monitor handle both PAL and NTSC.

If "frame" is chosen as the movie mode- must we modify the capture rate in our DV editing program to 30 fps or leave at 29.97?

(I read somewhere that "frame" uses 30 FPS- just want to see if that was rounded out for advertising reasons.)


Proud XL1S owner.
Final Cut Pro

Hello Steve,

No, the frame rate of the XL1s (and most other video cams) is set. In North America under the NTSC standard that actually works out to somewhere around 29.97 fps. The "frame" mode of the XL1s specifies that the camera will capture full-frames as it shoots those 29.97 fps, rather than interlaced frames. Nevertheless many XL1, XL1s and GL1 shooters generally prefer to leave the camera set to frame mode as it is often a more pleasing image.

Good luck and welcome to the proud XL1s owners' club!

As noted the frame rate is 29.97 for NTSC. It is not 30 because for color, 29.97 eliminates soem potential interference between boradcast signal components that would happen if it was precisely 30.

Frame mode on the XL1 captures the whole frame at one instant exposure (1/60 or faster) and then sends out the fields (odd and even lines) out in normal interlaced mode.

There is some interpolation going on, a sort of vertical pixel shift, as well, which accounts for the slightly reduced vertical resolution when using frame mode.

I am looking at some used XL1's. What is the life expectancy of an XL1? How often should it be serviced? Thanks for the help.

I'm rather somewhat insistent that these cameras be sent in to Canon Service for cleaning and tweaking at *least* once per year. As far as life expectancy, no one can say because they're still going strong. The internal clock goes up to the year 2020, which is refreshingly optimistic on behalf of Canon. Life can be as short as the five-foot drop to concrete, or as long as tender loving care provides.

Upon buying used, your first action should be to send it in to Service for an oil change.

The old Canon Hi-8 A1, L1 and L2 (now those were the good old days) had problems with leaky capacitors at the end of their cycle. But technology has changed since then. Take proper care of your XL1, and hopefully the biggest problem you'll have late in its life is finding DV tape for it, after we all switch to a disc-based or drive-based consumer-level High Definition video format (anybody want to guess when that will happen). DV's got plenty of good year(s) ahead, in my opinion.

For all pragmatic purposes, the life will be limited by availability of repair parts, which usually is assured for on the order of 5 years after it is discontinued. Beyond that it is hit or miss. In some cases makers will sell their parts inventory after 5 years to a third party repair shop. The XL1 and XL1s may share some, but not all parts.

Head life is what, 1000+ hours or so, followed by a significant head replacement charge. What it is, several hndred $.

Of course, repair cost can be an issue, and there is the temptation to get a new camcorder with all the improved bells and whistles.

Was wondering, about XL1s....the option to steady the shot, how good of a feature is it on the camera, sure it wont replace having a tripod for you, but does it take care of uneasy handheld bumps?

just wondering..

I've got the XL1S and they must have forgotten to include my "Steadycam like feature" or maybe I just haven't realized one is there.

If you are referring to the optical Image Stabilization, it works quite well. But if you are thinking about the small flip-down shoulder support, well I guess it's better than not having anything at all. It really just offers a way to steady the aft end of the camera but does little to support any weight.

Ed Frazier