I've never had a problem using different brands (wet/dry) of cleaning tapes. Repeated use of cleaning tapes can damage the heads, so I would send them off to Canon for a professional cleaning.

It is still a good idea to send the camera yearly to Canon. Besides the cleaning you can have any firmware upgrades done plus the important head alignment.

I don't think you should get bad captured images either way. There's something wrong there.

In the green box mode, the camera won't let you set movie mode in the menu, so it's normally interlaced. (I'm talking XL-1).
Green box mode is generally to be avoided. Best to use manual mode and get to grips with all components: shutter speed, aperture, white balance, gain... it's not as hard as it sounds, while filming you only change one variable most of the time. And then there is focus of course & zoom.... We should be born octopusses....

Perhaps specify exactly what's wrong with your footage and what equipment you use and maybe post a screen shot, then often the wizards on this forum will scoot to the rescue.

Hi all,I need to know if is possible to use the xm1/xm2 batteries on my xl1 camera.
Thanks in advance,Maurizio.

I use same batteries on GL1 and XL1 with no problem. You can check battery numbers listed in the manuals to be sure.

Dear forum:
I have a weird problem. Let me first run through my set up.

I have shot a lot of tapes of auditions using my XL1S PAL using the standard 16x Servo lens. I have mounted a Cavision Matte box. The matte box is only expanded by 1/3 of its full capacity. I have a UV filter screwed onto the lens. I have recorded in green easy mode since it is only auditions. I also used a Sony video monitor.

Here is the problem. When I capture the footage in my NLE (iMovie since I just need to capture and export the clips to iDVD, I don't use FCP3), there are some vignetting in all 4 corners. It is worst in the top corners. And I only see it when I have capture it. I didn't see it on the video monitor (800 lines), so I am very spooked. I used a couple of Home Depot spot lamps with a 200W tungsten as light.

Also when I shoot wide shots i.e. wide angle I don't see the vignetting, it only appears when I zoom. I have previously used this camera set up and haven't seen any vignetting.

Anyone who has any suggestions? I will be using my camera in 1 month to shot my short film, and I can't have any surprises.

Computer screen viewer in iMovie underscans, shows the complete image. Your 800 line video monitor overscans (crops), as all monitors do. It's just the difference between computer and NTSC video.

You can purchase production monitors that have switchable underscan. But this can be a pricey feature. You customer will never see the vignetting, because his monitor (TV) will overscan also.

<<<-- Originally posted by Thomas Berg Petersen : I will be using my camera in 1 month to shot my short film, and I can't have any surprises. -->>>

Yeah, you really do need to check your footage on an underscanning monitor, or in your NLE which shows the full frame. I learned the hard way that the VX-2000/PD-150 LCD screen and viewfinder don't show the entire frame. I gather this is true for most (if not all) prosumer camcorders. If your movie is going to be digitally projected or printed to film the chances are that the full frame will show, so you have to be extra careful.

One thing which I've found really useful is a little shareware program called BTV Pro (http://www.bensoftware.com/btvpro.html). You can use a PowerBook as a monitor by connecting it to your camera via firewire. It will show you the full video frame (and also do some other cool things like capturing video for tapeless recording). It can also display anamorphic 16:9 in the correct proportion.

I am new to this forum and reside in San Diego, CA. Any ideas onthe best place to buy the XL1s? I see it on ebay for around $3500.00. I almost bought it on Amazon, but it appears I was very close to becoming a victim of fraud. Someone saying they just bought it and they needed to sell it and they wanted to ESCROW it through www.escrow1st.com. After some careful research, I found out the website had been created a week ago (www.NetworkSolutions.com) and none of the information added up, the site was not secure (https:). Anyhow, when I started calling them out on it, they suddnely vanished only to reurn as a new Amazon merchant (The new email is registered at www.escrow1st.com). I had a friend email and inquire and the same story was given to the T.

Anyway, I was this close to finally getting the XL1s. Anyone have any suggestions for a San Diego wannabe filmaker? It is retailing for $4100.00 at the stores here. Anyone? Bueller? Fry?

Run, don't walk, to my Sponsors (http://www.dvinfo.net/sponsors/index.php) page and be sure to read my post at the top of this forum's index called Where to Buy the XL1S (http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?s=&threadid=22). Hope this helps,

Canon made a Hi-8 camera that preceded the XL1, that had interchangeable lenses.

It can been seen at the site:
http://161.58.152.172/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=5031066&Product_Code=CANL2

The pictures not quite clear, but is the mount compatible with the XL1s? Just saw someone selling the camcorder in local press and wondering if the 3x lens with it is compatible.

Thanks!

It is not compatable, to the best of my knowledge.

The only place in Chicago that I know where you can try out the XL1s before you buy it is at Helix Camera & Video

HELIX
310 SOUTH RACINE
CHICAGO IL 60607
312 421-2804

www.helixphoto.com

Hope this helps out a few of you guys looking for the XL1s in Illinois.

I was surfing around on the Optex website and came across this accessory for the XL-1 Color Viewfinder. Has anyone seen one of these units installed on an XL-1? What are the Pros and Cons of such and attachment? Should one just go ahead and invest in the FU-1000 monochrome viewfinder as opposed to the viewfinder extension setup?

See link: OpTex XL1S Extension Viewfinder (http://www.optexint.com/sales/production/xlvf.html)

Would like to hear back if anyone has info.
Dennis

I had one of my XL1's sitting for a while. I turned it on, and nothing happened, except the viewfinder started blinking off and on. Just flashing a whitish screen. No power went to any of the camera at all. I put a new, charged battery (guess that one was near dead when I put it in), and it powered up fine.

Has this happened to anyone else?

Never heard of that before... sounds like a near-death battery going through some final spasms.

Those batteries will normally discharge over the course of a month. After about a month or so they are seriously expended and will need to be recharged before use.

If the battery was really old there is no telling how much capacity remained.

P.S. Don't forget about replacing the button too.

Nothing is wrong. You are getting an interlaced image which is
looking jagged on a computer screen whenever something is
moving in the frame or the camera itself is moving. I'd shoot with
frame mode if I was you. If you really want to shoot interlaced
and later de-interlace I don't think Premiere's standard
de-interlace routines will suffice (as you have found out). Do
a search on this site with words like deinterlace or interlacing
and you'll quickly find tips on how to get rid of that.

I'm a student, and completely new to the XL1, I just got my hands on it today to tape a project. Unforunetally, the camera won't recognize any of my tapes. They fit into the bay just fine, but no timecode shows up on my readouts, and the red blinking "no tape" icon still appears.

I've tried 4 different Fujifilm miniDV tapes.
I'm up against a deadline here, anyone know what's going on?

Thanks.

Okay, problem solved. I didn't realize you had to push the bay door in before the other door. Newb panic over.

Is there a way to film time lapse and/or slow mo using the
XL1S?

No, but you can do it in post with decent results.

I would suggest to stay away from the FRAME mode if you want good slowmotion.

I use Vegas 4.0 and have decent results with both slowmotion and Timelapse video.

Good Luck!

You can do timelapse with the XL1s, not slowmotion indeed.
Timelapse (or interval recording) is described on page 63 in the
english manual.

Hey all,

I know a couple of productions have used both an XL1S and a GL2. My question is, is the footage that is produced from each camera capable of being edited together with minimal correction needed to make them seamless? Or as close to seamless as possible. : )

Thanks.

-Rob

Yes, it should be fairly easy to combine them. Just make sure theiy're color balanced as closely as possible initially, and that you're not in extreme lighting conditions (because they might perform differently). You'll probably have to color correct a bit (some say the XL1s is usually warmer than the GL2, while the GL2 has better performance in certain colors, for example), but with a good three-wheel color corrector it should be a piece of cake.

Thanks Peter!

Thanks in advance!!!! I filmed a wedding on a XL1s and went to capture the footage in FCP4 as I have many times before. I kept getting a beeping noise, (the same sound as when audio is not rendered in FCP). I went back to my camera and listened through the head phones and all is well when IM recording on MIC Level, but when I listen in VCR Mode (or Audio 1 Mode hooked into a deck), I get the Beeping again. I can't seem to get rid of it. Any suggestion's for the camera settings or what might be the problem? Thanks again David

OK,
I shoot remote controlled helis mostly for DVD authoring. Here is a sample trailer of the type of filming that I do. Very specific, there is a trailer link on the following page:

http://www.wademcgeetradingcompany.com/dvdpage1.html

This is not meant for advertisement, just for reference. At any rate I am outdoors and the stock mic is actually gettting the job done fairly well, accuracy is not all that important. However I am picking up a ton of wind noise. Can I get away with just a windscreen or should I get a new mic??? I do have the SLR adapter already, just for reference. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. If a windscreen is enough, where do you suggest getting it?

Thanks,
Wade

Wasn't able to see the clip -- you might want to post it as a Quicktime or Real Player for Mac folks -- but I can guess that if you're having a problem with wind you will need a good windscreen.

Check out Lightwave systems and see if they might have a furry windscreen available for your rig. These windscreens are very effective at eliminating wind noise, even in gusty conditions.

http://www.lightwavesystems.com/

Dean Sensui
Base Two Productions

Thanks Dean,
Just ordered one. Found them for $105.00, which is pretty good from what I researched. I think this will harness the problem. Whatever is left should be able to be squashed with the EQ or Noise Reduction Filter in Vegas.

Thanks,
Wade

I want to shoot a sunrise coming up in about 5 - 10 seconds. Instead of filming for an hour and speeding the footage up, I was wondering if there was a way to capture frames at intervals, much like a film camera, with the xl1s? Thanks!

Yes, it is called Interval Recording and is accessible from your menus. It is in the vcr setup submenu. It records 3 seconds out of every 30 seconds. So it will be a bit jerky. If you want something absolutely smooth I would record in real-time and switch tapes (something you can fix in editing easily). A programme like Scenalyzer can extract the relevant frames.

Michael,
I don't know if you have a digital camera, but this page gave me the inspiration to buy the little Digisnap attachment for my Nikon 990. I'm working on a time lapse project right now that will combine footage from my XL1 and the 990. I'm hoping that the difference will not be too jarring!

http://www.digitalsecrets.net/secrets/Accessory.html

Best,
Dave

It is recommended in my Sennheiser handbook, page 76 that the A17 helical antenna is used when the EK100 receiver is used on your camera. What is the reason for this, as it is a whip type antenna that came with my EK100 receiver.

i know this is a problem with the XL1; but is there any way around it?

nevermind; i answered my own question after running a search :P

mini-mount and system isolator -- where cna i purchase these online?

On a commercial shoot yesterday, we experienced a vertical band of digital breakup along the right side of the frame prior to shooting. We cleaned the heads, and all seemed right. We shot the first tape, and all looked good. Shot the second tape, and the breakup was present throughout the tape along the right side of the frame.This breakup was not visible during shooting. A third tape loaded after the second, recorded just fine.

The breakup is a band of blocky colors, in a "sawtooth" pattern along the right edge of the frame.

Any thoughts on the cause? Is this tape related, head alignment, one time problem? Cam is running solid now.

Shooting Fuji tapes only, Xl1 (NOT Xl1s). Camera last serviced last year.

Thanks canon watchdogs...

Sounds like a typical drop-out to me. There could be something wrong with part of the tape, the heads could be dirty and need to be cleaned professionally, or there's something wrong with the heads (which may need to be servived).

I have bought a wireless audio system from AKG.
AKG PT40 (transmitter) and AKG PR40 (receiver). The receiver (-6dBm (10k?) requieres a line input at the camera, the Canon XL1 has this (-11dbV / 47k?). I am not a sound engineer. The sound is very bad, lots of backround noise.
I appreciate any advice from someone who has used AKG before or is successfully using another wireless solution.
Thanks,
Juergen Hansen

You may need to run the input into Audio 1 (the switch under the audio door). You might want to work with the settings. You may need to make sure you have the audio in manual and reduce the gain.

Normally, I run the audio in 12 bit mode and use the sub tracks (audio 2). The system I use is the Sennheiser EW112p.

After reading a whole lot of threads, here on DVI:

regarding "frame mode shooting", can I conclude, ( I use a PAL XL1s), that if I DON't use 16:9, and stay at 25i/s, and not too high shutterspeed, my images will stay sharp , with no quality loss, even after being postproduced, and transferred for broadband use?
Or di I still miss something, all is a bit confusing on that subject..!?

many thanks, for any help clearing this out.

Jacko

See this thread (http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?s=&threadid=14726).

Ok, I recently have the oportunity to get a PAL XL1s for a great price, and i was wondering if this will work:

1.Capture 25"p" in frame mode, 16x9
2.Load into computer via firewire, and edit video.
a.Slow it down to 24fps, stretch sound 4%
(or capture sound separately on a DAT)
3.In order to not loose 4:2:0 color space, leave as a 24p quicktime or dub to a DigiBeta(4:2:2) tape.

will this work without loosing any color info? since i want to shoot 16x9, i figured PAL would give me the extra resolution that I would loose doing the matting in NTSC, plus the better color info.

My other question is, can I put the final product in a 24p DVD without loosing the 4:2:0 color info(down to 4:1:0 or whatever)?

Thanks,
Juan

See my post at
http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?s=&threadid=14794
with a link to streaming video (the second one hasn't been color corrected).

Basically I did what you are describing (PAL, Frame, Widescreen) but with a XM2.

For the color correction I stayed in DV format even if there are some compression artifacts after few generations. I didn't want to go to a lossless format (Quicktime for example) due to the different color space (I'm still investigating on this question).

I'm very pleased by the result especially because I can burn a 24p NTSC DVD as well as a 50i PAL DVD without any hassle.

Slowing down the audio track was in fact the trickiest part. My audio track was saturated and contained guitar, bass and voice but there are some damn good third-party tools that can deal with that.

Dany

Hi,

I just bought a Nebtek Moitor for my xl-1. The problem i am getting is diagonal interference from the composite video. Although its not appalling its noticeable on the monitor makes it harder to use. The diagonal noise moves and seems to change direction. I have tried everything I know to sort this problem out, it reminds me of my TV when the AV is not the correct channel and i get a very similar effect. Im a bit gutted as I was looking forward to using my nice new nebtek monitor :( Any peopl had similar problems?

Any Help appreciated.

Talk with your dealer about an exchange. What you're seeing isn't normal.

Can you post an audio sample or email a short clip?

If the output of the wireless is - 6dBm, connect it to the Audio1 input jack, from the menu be sure the Audio1 input is set to line (that is the default seting) and be sure the switch behind the door is set to the Audio1 setting. You can use manual or AGC as you wish.

Note that the -6 dBm output is probably too high for the MA-100/200, and for sure is too high for the mic jack

Sometime ago I asked this forum how I could use my current Azden WR2-PrO wireless [mono]with my Xl1s....The answers were good and I went to Radio Shack and thought I had the right components.....but the wireless still would not work..... following carefully the audio instructions... slide the imput switch to "mike" Audio 1 RCA jacks and "nothing" happened.
I went back to Radio Shack and this time talked to the manager.....It took him but a couple of minutes to go and find the correct components....Here they are in case anyone else has the problerm I had. Mono to Mono Shielded Plug Adapter #274-871
and a 4-inch Shielded Y-Adapter Audio Cable #42-2535. That did it.....my wireless equipment works perfectly....

Tom Turney Video Productions
Bemidji, MN
E-Mail: videoent81@yahoo.com

I'm looking for a quality wireless to use with my XL1s capable up picking up multiple speakers or small stage productions. Is there such a beast?

Thanks,

Jeffrey