Hi,

Question about the Wide Angle Lens for the Xl-H1..
Is the zoom Ring still coupled to a Servo or can i make very fast Zooms with it..ok its only 6X but still would be cool for some shots.. also.. how does the Iris Ring feel? Professional? I mean, does it do nearly seamingless adjustments.. not with noticeable increments like on my old H1, which looks rubbish if your adjusting it during one shot...

are there any other lenses for the H1 which are build for HD.. I am not getting the best reviews about using xl-1 and xl-2 lenses..what i really want is Iris, Zoom and Focus on the Lens managable through Rings..

Isnt Letus working on a relay lens for its 35mm adapter?

and about the Fu-1000.. There is one on Americas Ebay.. this one to be precise..

CANON FU-1000 BLACK & WHITE VIEWFINDER XL2 XL1 XL1S H1 - eBay (item 350176991645 end time Apr-10-09 11:12:29 PDT) (http://cgi.ebay.com/CANON-FU-1000-BLACK-WHITE-VIEWFINDER-XL2-XL1-XL1S-H1_W0QQitemZ350176991645QQihZ022QQcategoryZ167930QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

A mate of mine is now in Miami and could pick it up.. but i am using an european XL-H1, Pal Version... Can i still use this Viewfinder.. Shouldnt be a problem i think but its better to ask?

Maybe you could also suggest a good Video light?

and whats a good small color monitor.. which also works well in daylight..shouldnt be too expensive though..

thanks alot in Advance,

phil

Philipp,

I recently put together an XL-H1 package with these components. The iris ring on the 6x is stepless, and you can make minute adjustments on-the-fly. And, there are all the other benefits of this fantastic lens: no barrel distortion, completely flat image, awesome coverage. The availability of this lens was a prime factor in my moving to the XL-H1.

And, so was the FU-1000 B&W viewfinder. I've been in the business for quite a while, and could never understand how my colleagues could work with color LCD viewfinders. You would benefit from this informative review of the FU-1000:

The Canon FU-1000 Monochrome CRT Viewfinder for the XL1 / XL1S by Ken Tanaka (http://www.dvinfo.net/canon/articles/article83.php)

So, I buy my H1, and, while I'm waiting for it, I bookmark an FU-1000 on eBay. The camera arrives, I turn it on, take one look through the viewfinder, go back to eBay, and I click the "Buy it Now" button to purchase the FU-1000. It is worth every penny.

Best of luck!

Jeff

Hi Philipp,
there's difference between the signal setup for the fu-1000 for PAL and NTSC camcorders! So if you buy a NTSC-type, you have to modify it before it will work in a PAL-H1 camcorder.
I know because I bought one from the B&H in the US. Here is a link how this can be done:
http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/canon-xl1s-xl1-watchdog/34554-fu-1000-ntsc-work-my-pal-xl1.html - thread #9 gives you the explanation!

The zoom ring is coupled to the servo, you cannot do snap zooms with the 6x lens. Letus (apparently) gave up on the relay lens, I guess it became more profitable to sell to the HVX crowd. Currently there is no other "HD" lens for the cameras besides the stock and the wide. The Canon 6x Wide really is the only one you should use, the screw ons and other lenses don't begin to compare. As far as other Canon HD XL lenses I've heard that the 14x works well and the 16x kinda works on the tight end but neither is "officially" HD.

I use the Marshall 7" monitor which was great 3 years ago when I bought it but is now overpriced and underwhelming compared to others on the market.

The FU-1000 is really hand if you have a professional set up and need critical focus, it's probably around 2x as sharp but it ads weight and of course is in black and white. I do not believe that an NTSC version will work with a pal camera but I cannot say for certain one way or another.

The only video light everyone seems to love these days (in my area) is the Lite-panels light it's on the expensive side but is dimmable and I believe is native daylight so you don't need to get an HMI on board kit. It's also LED so the bulbs last forever and battery drain is minimal.

Also for the record you don't need the power adapter for the fu-1000 on the xl-h1 just plug it into the other port and it'll power up itself.

If you're interested in buying a 6x lens with little use, I picked one up for a gig and don't find myself using it much anymore, drop me an e-mail through the site. Also if you're interested in a marshall monitor, same thing. (and if it turns out you need an NTSC fu-1000 I've got one of those too...)

Thanks very much guys..

This is all very helpful.. Because i am getting more and more Camera Jobs i really need to update my Equipment.. ( I am actually doing editing as my main job ) And Focus was always an Issue for me with the H1.. So the Fu - 1000 should come in Handy.. but i would never buy it knew.. I have to pay in Dollars 2.971 at my cheapest Reseller in Town ( thats vienna/austria ).. so i would try the trick in the link, converting ntsc to pal.. thanks again for the Tip..

ok..maybe there is no snap zooming... cant have everything... the manual Iris is much more important for me.. i dont want to buy a new camera because of the snap zooming..

and buying a new camera doesnt look to good in general ..because i dont think Canon will release a XL-H2 too soon.. there is of Course the HPX-300.. very interesting.. but i am shooting Car races all the Time.. and rolling shutter doesnt look to good.. so i am thinking about the wide lens with the fu - 1000 and strapping a xdr on to it.. mainly to go Tapeless but also to get the 4:2:2... i think with this setup i should survive for 2-3 Years..
Actually i am producing about 100 Percent for SD.. so i could even survive with an XL-2 ;)

@Nick
I will get back to you...per e-mail

I actually picked up the 6x lens again today, while "snap zoom" isn't technically possible, with the zervo you can get REALLY FAST zooms which are right on the border of having a near snap zoom.

Philipp,

I had the fu 1000 on my xl2 and it was marvolous improvement.

I moved it to my xlh1 and it does make focusing far better. You just have to get used to seeing black and white.

If you get it here are a couple suggestions:
Once you have it all set the way you like mark the dials so if anything gets bumped you can put it back right without calibrating again!!
Once you have plugged it into the lower port, take some electical tape and wrap it around the plug and handle so it does not get accidently nudged out a bit. This happened to me and cost me 412 dollars!!! It was out just so slightly and I pushed it back in while it was on and running fine.

the distant future may be hd however I think the xl2 makes better images under low light conditions where you have no control over the light. I am ever so glas i did not trade off my xl2!!

Hey, does anybody have some tips on calibrating the FU-1000? I read the Tanaka directions, and it leaves a lot of room for ambiguity. I mean, he says to start by turning up the brightness knob until you can just see the grey field. Trouble is, it ramps up so smoothly that leaves a lot of leeway. In general, I'd say the image looks much darker in the viewfinder than it does after I capture the footage.

thanks for the advice..

Marco,

Here is what I did:

Start adjusting according to the white paper tanaka wrote.

Hook the camera up to an hd TV.

Adjust white balance

set the camera on manual, hold the exp lock until you get the camera's optimum exposure ( or use a light meter to make the setting you like). Adjust the camera to get the image you like on the TV ( I set up some colorful ojects for a still life picture on the table,

Now adjust the contrast so that the B&W image looks like you think it should be (I had to turn contrast up).

Now as it it focused perfectly, increase the peaking so when it comes in as bright as you need to recognise the focus.

I now then practice bringing in the peaking in so it is in perfvect focus on the tv and I know exactly how it should look for optimum focus.

I also use the peaking one on as I personally can recognise it more easily that using just the fu 1000 peaking by itself.

then go out, practice on shots and then come back and see how you did!!!

Even just the resolution of the view finder is twice as good as the original!!


Oh yea, if you put to much peaking down it is actually pretty easy to soften the image.

Dale,
Do you leave the peaking on on the camera also?
Bruce Yarock
Yarock Video and Photo (http://www.yarockvideo.com)

Dale,
I also forgot to ask...

"Adjust the camera to get the image you like on the TV"

What adjustment are you talking about?
thanks
Bruce Yarock

Bruce,

Jer Johan recomended leaving the camera white balance off.

At present I set it to peaking 1 and use it in combination as I can recognise it better.

Try it both ways and you decide what you prefer.




By setting it the way you like it I ment the following:


Adjust the basic settings and presets so that the color is the way you like it and the color image on the TV is awesome. I prefer mine to be a little richer than most people, technacolor like if possible.

then go to the fu 1000 that you had already adjusted acording to ken's adjustments and made the peaking the way you like it.

Now I turn up the contrast so that the black and white image is the amount of brightness you are comfortable with so you know when your image is looking the same you know your color will be right.

when you turn up the contrast you may need to turn down the peaking slightly.

you can make the peaking so that just as it comes on the image (check the TV) the image is perfectly focused!!!


So far this is the only way I know to get it dead accurate.

If you bump any of the three dials your then can't trust it to be right and must rely on resolution which is ok, definitely better than the original. that is why I recomend marking the dials!!!


Let me know how you make out.

Thanks, dale. I'll fool with it and let you know.
bruce Yarock

Hi there..

Now i have my Wide Angle which is fantastic.. I just shot a Stretchlimousine this week and have to say. I would have failed with the Stock lens.

And i also have the Fu-1000 now, which was very kindly handed over to me for a very good price by Nick Hiltgen. I made the alterations as shown in the above link. Thanks again for the advice and the device works great. Its just me having to adjust to Black and White. Which is more difficult than i thought it would be. I feel like beeing trapped in a small room. :). Alway worried about White Balance. Focusing on the other hand is great.

Well, whatever. I do have a question.
Is it possible to also connect the color VWF to the camera at the same time as the B+W VWF.. I like to build things and i can certainly adapt the stock VWF to use it aside the Fu-1000.. But i dont want to blow a fuse for just trying out.

So do you think its possible?

cheers

Its always possible to run out to a color monitor while you're shooting with the FU-1000.

sure sure..

no... what i meant is letting the stock VWF connected as it is.. and also connecting the FU-1000 to the port below, where the stock VWF is connected.. letting both of them run at the same time..


and than also having a little monitor connected to the BNC port.. :)

is that possible?

Philip, I've wondered this too, especially if you external monitor could draw power from that tap. That would be awesome.

Aloha friends—

After spending some time on a big ENG-type project, I have learned a few things about the FU-1000. First, as was stated elsewhere here, once you have the viewfinder setup, TAPE THE DIALS! They move far too easily. I overexposed several scenes because of this. Bummer.

And, the biggest drawback, for me, is that the RECORD indicator is within the frame, in the picture. So, in B&W, it's hard to tell if you're recording— the indicator is in B&W. My Sony DSR-570 had a red LED below the viewfinder screen, so you always knew when you were rolling. Unless, my finder isn't working right... does anyone have one that DOES have an LED below the frame? It's not like Ikegami couldn't have built it this way; they do have LED tally lights at the front of the viewfinder.

And, sheesh, if only there was a way to selectively turn off more of the in-finder display info. There's waaay too much going on in there.

Jeff

Philip -I shoot with an XL-2, but the bodies are similar. The FU-1000 connector COVERS the other port when it is in place, so physically I don't think you can connect the two viewfinders simultaneously - so no. Aside from that, I doubt the camera's internal fuse would power the both of them, and you DON'T want to blow an internal fuse. Trust me. And I don't know how you would mount the two viewfinders on the body.

You CAN mount the fu-1000 and any number of various small color lcd's on top. But they are not powered from the side ports.

Jeff - You can go into the camera menu - select display, and toggle through various settings to add/subtact a couple of elements from the display screen. Additionally (on the XL-2 anyway) There is an EVF button on the body, that will toggle through three settings of the display, subtracting various elements until the screen is completely clear of information.

The only indication that the camera is running is the REC/PAUSE words above the timecode. These can be toggled OFF in the selection process - so be carefull. I just make it a point of procedure - to look for running timecode in my viewfinder when I'm shooting.

I use the old acronym F.A.S.T. before I roll tape. FOCUS - APERTURE - SHUTTER - TIMECODE. -Helps me to remember to check everything.

Richard,


The xlh1 comes with a cord to plug into the unused port to drive a small monitor.

Wonder if the xl2 could use the same cord, my xl2 is out with another cameraman or I would check it out. Don't know if I have the guts to turn it on though as the last blown fuse cost me 410 dollars!!!

It would seem safest to use a small external monitor.

Check out the new smallHD monitor

SmallHD.com - 8.9" High Definition - the DP1 (http://www.smallhd.com)

Ah, could be there is a different level of power distribution with the XLH-1 if they ship an 'extension cord' with it.

Yup, I suppose it could work with the XL2.... "Do you feel lucky, punk?"

@Richard
Yeah..youre right.. i just figured this out Yesterday during my first official shoot with the FU-1000..it completely covers the second port..

@ Dale
And about this Cord Plug..I got the H1 used and i didnt get it..
Well... But is this Cord Plug there to power this Device..

Canon | FU2000 Remote Viewfinder | 0974B002 | B&H Photo Video (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/410316-REG/Canon_0974B002_FU2000_Remote_Viewfinder.html)

Would you recommend it?

Probably pretty expensive for what it can do i guess...

@Jeff
Yeah i missed the Record light too Yesterday.. So i also have no Rec lights on in the viewer..

cheers,

phil

I am going to make an educated guess and say that the fu2000 remote viewfinder is quite simply the regular viewfinder in a different package that allows you to extend away from camera. It probably plugs into the same port as the color viewfinder and draws the same amount of current. I would avoid hooking up the FU1000 and anything in the 2nd port at the same time. You are just asking for trouble. If you commit to the FU1000 and cannot live without a color reference then an external monitor tied into the component out is probably your best bet.

When I use the FU1000 I have a portable DVD player that allows input via composite out that I can reference colors on quickly. Most of the time on run and gun shoots I actually use auto (gasp) color balance. It works out "most" of the time. On scripted shoots I use an external monitor for color reference and set it manually.

I will say this. With the FU1000 I have a lot less shots that are "slightly" out of focus. It just helps so much. Plus I think there is less delay to the viewfinder or less lag....maybe I am imagining that but it seems more reponsive and definitely does not slow down in the cold.


@Richard
Yeah..youre right.. i just figured this out Yesterday during my first official shoot with the FU-1000..it completely covers the second port..

@ Dale
And about this Cord Plug..I got the H1 used and i didnt get it..
Well... But is this Cord Plug there to power this Device..

Canon | FU2000 Remote Viewfinder | 0974B002 | B&H Photo Video (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/410316-REG/Canon_0974B002_FU2000_Remote_Viewfinder.html)

Would you recommend it?

Probably pretty expensive for what it can do i guess...

@Jeff
Yeah i missed the Record light too Yesterday.. So i also have no Rec lights on in the viewer..

cheers,

phil

Jeff - You can go into the camera menu - select display, and toggle through various settings to add/subtact a couple of elements from the display screen. Additionally (on the XL-2 anyway) There is an EVF button on the body, that will toggle through three settings of the display, subtracting various elements until the screen is completely clear of information.


Richard—

I guess my beef is that, correct me if I'm wrong, items displayed in the viewfinder are grouped, and certain items cannot be removed from their group. So, we are faced with TMIOWYS— Too Much Information Obstructing What You're Shooting.

Aloha—

Jeff

Totally agree with you Jeff. There's way too much crap in the display that you can't turn off selectively. All I really want to see is the audio meter and whether the tape is rolling. And why in the hell didn't they put all that stuff in the letterboxed area when you shoot widescreen? For that matter, why can't I see the anamorphic stretched view? It would be way easier to focus if a third of the vertical resolutions wasn't thrown away in the viewfinder.

It's difficult to be critical of the fu1000 when it is a 8-9 year old product that was designed in the standard-def non widescreen world. The fact that canon was able to design the h1 series to utilize it at all is a huge plus in my mind. Had the fu1000 been designed recently that would be a valid criticism of not using the letterbox area. Kind of like the xl2 did! Now that deserved that criticism.

Ah, you know I really had the XL2 in mind.

Yeah.. I will not buy the fu-2000... It really looks like the regular VWF of the H1..
Secondly.. No.. I will not use the second port..

External Monitor connected to the BNC Port.. thats it..

It was just very unusual for me not having the color information...

Now i also shot yesterday and must say.. I am getting used to the lack of color.. And Focusing is definitly something you cant fix in Post... So i will stick with the fu-1000...
happily ;)

cheers....