Just wondering what size/make/model of camera stabilizer anyone has tried with the 5DmkII?

I just sold my Glidecam V8, which was overkill. I'm considering getting a Merlin, if it isn't too small. Compact and lightweight for travel is what I'm looking for. And avoiding getting noticed while guerilla shooting as well.

Believe it or not, I get great results from the super simple SteadyTracker. It kind of doubles as pseudo monopod too.

the 5D is awesome on the Glidecam 4000HD. The lightweight (compared to video cameras) design of the 5D makes it a real pleasure to fly. Check out our video's we did for LensRentals.com. We did 2 episodes, 1 on glidecam setup, another on balancing.

LensRentals.com - Glidecam Setup (http://www.lensrentals.com/video/glidecam-setup)

LensRentals.com - Glidecam Balancing (http://www.lensrentals.com/video/glidecam-balancing)

the 5D is awesome on the Glidecam 4000HD. The lightweight (compared to video cameras) design of the 5D makes it a real pleasure to fly. Check out our video's we did for LensRentals.com. We did 2 episodes, 1 on glidecam setup, another on balancing.

LensRentals.com - Glidecam Setup (http://www.lensrentals.com/video/glidecam-setup)

LensRentals.com - Glidecam Balancing (http://www.lensrentals.com/video/glidecam-balancing)

Are LensRentals planning on covering video? Looking through their site I mostly saw still stuff. For example I couldn't find a fluid head (or even a glidecam).

I've got a Glidecam 2000 that I've recently been experimenting with. I've found balancing it to be quite tricky, but from looking at what people have been writing in the stabilisation forum I guess that's par for the course.

I tried it out yesterday in a stiff breeze and it was prone to being blown all over the place. The footage shown in the lens rental video (in the nightclub) is incredibly good - I'm not even close yet.

One thing I have found: I'm using Nikon primes and I find it slightly easier to balance by mounting the camera the "wrong way", so that it's facing 90 degrees away from the proper way to point it

the 5D is awesome on the Glidecam 4000HD. The lightweight (compared to video cameras) design of the 5D makes it a real pleasure to fly. Check out our video's we did for LensRentals.com. We did 2 episodes, 1 on glidecam setup, another on balancing.

LensRentals.com - Glidecam Setup (http://www.lensrentals.com/video/glidecam-setup)

LensRentals.com - Glidecam Balancing (http://www.lensrentals.com/video/glidecam-balancing)

Great tutorial.

Tutorials looks good. I have seen ppl using the 5D with the Merlin and Glidecam 2000 so far.

I bought the indian rig Proaim 7000 with the Flycam 6000. I am really satisfied with it and the price was really cheap. I suggest it to all the people that are looking for an arm /vest/glidecam solution. Besides, I have tried both the glidecam and the flycam: with the last one it took me no more than 5 minutes to get the right balance.

I have a Merlin and the 5D with 17-40 EF balances fine. Unfortunately nerve issues in my neck and arm prevent me from using it for more than a minute. so i'm looking to sell.

That's why I bought the vest with the arm... Before I was not able to use the glidecam more than one minute.

I've used my 5d on my steadicam pilot and it's amazing.Especially with a 15mm fisheye on it.You have to be care when using the 5d on a stabilizer since there is no way to focus with out touch the camera.The wider the better.I really do prefer my flying my A1 compared to the 5d though (more weight...more stable)

Ryan

I've used my 5d on my steadicam pilot and it's amazing.Especially with a 15mm fisheye on it.You have to be care when using the 5d on a stabilizer since there is no way to focus with out touch the camera.The wider the better.I really do prefer my flying my A1 compared to the 5d though (more weight...more stable)

Ryan

That's what the focus follower whip was invented for.

What about the Flowpod: VariZoom FlowPod Camera Stabilizers & Supports, monitors, Zoom controls, Camera Stabilizers & Supports, Batteries, Monitor Kits Phone:512-219-7722 (http://www.varizoom.com/products/stabilizers/vzfp.html)
Seems to be an interesting solution (monopod as well as stabilizer) although I never tried it.

Guillaume

What about the Flowpod: VariZoom FlowPod Camera Stabilizers & Supports, monitors, Zoom controls, Camera Stabilizers & Supports, Batteries, Monitor Kits Phone:512-219-7722 (http://www.varizoom.com/products/stabilizers/vzfp.html)
Seems to be an interesting solution (monopod as well as stabilizer) although I never tried it.

Guillaume

If I only had a dollar for every stabilizer made, I'd be rich. I guess they figure you just bolt some pieces of metal together and you are done.

I'm a total videonoob and shoot homevideo's of my family and stuff like that. Smoothly following kids at play is just totally impossible handheld and a tripod is way too static for my purpose as well.

Well manufactured stabilizers are terribly expensive (considering my amateur-noob purpose) so I did quite some research before I got mine.
I found roughly 3 solutions:
1) DIY: Tinker a stabilizer yourself: Not for me: I'm not an handyman and most of the DIY stuff is ugly and lack easy calibration. I also doubt the results and the sturdiness. Dropping a 5D mKII with the 85mm 1.2L is a lot of money for an amateur as myself.
2) Go for the 200-500$ range
Thought about this. Problem is that in the Netherlands support etc. is far away. The Glidecam receives good ratings but it's (also) ugly and I read recalibrating is a b**ch
3) Steadicam Merlin (and up)
I've always been drawn to the Merlin. It looks small, compact and high-tech. More importantly it (re)calibrates pretty easy and has good support (online and through Dutch vendors) and the reviews are excellent.

For my personal use the 800€ (yes Euro's in the Netherlands) for the Merlin was way over the top but luckily I could lay my hands on an excellent occasion.

I've used the Merlin for one day now. Calibrating and reading the manual took half a day. I shot almost 2-3 hours with it. So far I'm very happy with it....

Calibrating with the 17-40 F4.0 and the 35mm 1.4L wasn't too hard but it really requires some reading and adjusting. They're many variables at work there, don't expect to be ready in 15 minutes if you have no experience with steadicams (like me)

What I like:
+ Re-calibrating is pretty easy and out of the box it takes like 2-5 minutes. That will become even faster with experience I think. I've used the thing 1 day now. With the finetune knobs fine calibration is really easy.
+ The weight of the combination: I shot for three hours without problems. I do work-out at the gym sometimes but I'm by no means an athletic guy :)
+ The results: With not much experience with video and no experience with stabilizers I'm already very happy with the smooth results. I'm even more excited about the future possibilies when my skill improves (let's assume the latter will happen)
+ Compact, build, looks: The design is clearly the result of a lot of experience and quality engineering. The whole package: Case, bag, manual, support etc oozes quality and pride in product. It's clear that steadicam is the inventor of these type of rigs and they're planning to stay ahead. (No I don't have stocks in steadicam, it just looks great)
+ Can expand if need arises. The merlin arm+vest receives excellent review-ratings as well. With the metal gimball the max. weight becomes 3.4kg instead of 2kg. Chances that I'll shoot a family-birthday party with a full vest+arm rig are pretty slim but it's nice to know that you CAN, if you want to :)

What I less like:
- The dovetailplate looks a bit flimsy but I trust it. I've read no reports of that thing falling apart :) The construction is smarter than the Glidecam (i've read that, I've no hands-on experience with the glidecam)
- The screw that comes with the dovetailplate is totally inadequate. It's short, is easily lost and you damage it if you screw it tightly. I'll have to replace that as soon as I got the time.
- The strap of the camera is really in the way. Unfortunately temoving/re-attaching the straps is a royal pain in the ****, I also need a smarter solution for this. I wind the strap around the lens. Needless to say that's less than ideal. I can't zoom and need to recalibrate the whole time due to weightshift. This isn't a Merlin problem of course, but a general stabilizer/canon problem.
- Operation: Looks easy but it's pretty tricky to operate the rig smoothly. This is something I knew, and practicing with it is great fun but it's not something you learn in 1 day, week or even year.
- Price price price: I'm really happy with the product, the looks, the results (so far) but for an amateur it's really a big investment. You're paying for a piece of not-too-complex mechanics more than the average amateur videocamera, that's steep.

All in all: If you can afford it I can recomment the Merlin for the 5D....

To be honest, after testing different kind of solutions, I find the stedicam and the glidecam without vest and arm far too heavy. You will be able to film only very shortly because after that you start to get pain and your arm start to tremble.
So, think twice before you buy only a stabilizator because IT IS HEAVY! Only if you are Superman you won't have problems...

To be honest, after testing different kind of solutions, I find the stedicam and the glidecam without vest and arm far too heavy. You will be able to film only very shortly because after that you start to get pain and your arm start to tremble.
So, think twice before you buy only a stabilizator because IT IS HEAVY! Only if you are Superman you won't have problems...

I gave away my Glidescam years ago just because of that, it's useless for anyting more for a casual test shot for Youtube or Vimeo. This sort of stabilizing product (without an arm and a vest) by far is the most useless production tool I've owned.
Try to hold the camera with let's say 2.8 70-200mm lens (just for weight reference) in front of you with one hand and count the seconds before your hand starts to shake - now you know how usable is a glidescam in the real world.

In the other hand a tool like this shouldn't be used for every shot so maybe it is usable for some - at least it works better for walking/tracking than a shoulder mounted option.

T

To be honest, after testing different kind of solutions, I find the stedicam and the glidecam without vest and arm far too heavy. You will be able to film only very shortly because after that you start to get pain and your arm start to tremble.
So, think twice before you buy only a stabilizator because IT IS HEAVY! Only if you are Superman you won't have problems...

With the 17-40mm and the 35mm 1.4L I had no problem with the weight at all. I must admit I mostly shot casual clips with it, not 20 minutes continuously. I'm by no means superman btw.
Next days I'll try the 85mm 1.2L II to see if that's a problem but wide lenses are pretty much the standard on most steadicam shots I've seen. Longer focal lengths require more strength but also much more skill.

Steadicam's are a specialty tool by nature, so normally you don't shoot a lot with it. But there are a lot of situations where the stabilizer is very useful and give a real different look. If you need to shoot for hours at a row an arm and vest are mandatory but I assume you're not having the considerations we're having at this post then.

To boil it down: Weight isn't that much of a problem imo, unless you want to shoot with the big lenses and/or at a long time in a row. That said: The Merlin is definitely lighter compared to most other solutions I've seen....

Steadicam posts the weight limit of the Merlin as 7.5 lbs (with the new all-metal gimbal). The Merlin Arm can adjust to a payload of 15lbs. I don't know whether that includes the weight of the arm or not. But the arm itself weighs 5.1 lbs. It seems that the arm could handle a bit more than 7.5lbs on the Merlin, but would there not be enough counterweights to balance that? Or would the gimbal just not work properly with more weight than 7.5lbs?

I'm worried that 7.5lbs might be cutting it too close for me. I'll be shooting a Canon 5dmk2, ideally with the vertical grip and fast L lenses. The body weighs 3lbs with the grip, and lenses would be in the 1-1.5 lb range. I plan on using a follow focus mounted to minimal carbon fiber rails. Manufacturer says this should be under 3 lbs. So, I am up to 7.5lbs. I'd rather be somewhere in the middle of a range, rather than at the top. I plan on shooting pretty wide open, so i think the FF is a must. I could lose the extra battery and grip and remove 1 lb from the setup.

It sounds like the Merlin is a really nice piece of equipment and I would upgrade to a large model, but the jump is from $2500, for the Merlin and Arm, to $10,000-$15,000 it seems. The other option is to get the Indian Glidecam knockoff that Edouard Saba bought, The Flycam 6000 with its articulated arm. I realize the build quality may not be as high, but this isn't going to be handled by anyone but me or my asst and it can hold nearly 30lbs. I could have monitor options, Hocus Focus, etc.

Does anyone know another solution?

Thanks,

greg

I spent 1500 € including shipping for the Proaim 7000 that includes a wonderful vest, a robust double arm, the flycam 6000 that is better than the glidecam if you are enough lucky to get a smooth gimbal, a universal camera base plate a tripod and so on... I assure that the built quality is really ok (at least mine, I didn't have any problem). The quality of the flycam is better than the glidecam, that IMO looks pretty cheap. The Flycam 6000 has a better design and it took me few minutes to balance the Canon.
But without the arm and the vest I would say: forget it! Glidecam or Flycam are too heavy and you won't use it more than twice...

If you want an equivalent system (arm, vest and stabilizator with the same possibilities) but made in USA you will spend 150% more than the indian rig.

PS: I just found out that there is a new mini arm, lighter than the Proaim 7000.

I've compared all of these rigs and the steadicam brand is far superior in both build and design.If you can swing it....buy a steadicam.Sure all of these other companies can fly your camera but will they last? I'm a true believer in "you get what you pay for".

Ryan

Steadicam Pilot



Steadicam posts the weight limit of the Merlin as 7.5 lbs (with the new all-metal gimbal). The Merlin Arm can adjust to a payload of 15lbs. I don't know whether that includes the weight of the arm or not. But the arm itself weighs 5.1 lbs. It seems that the arm could handle a bit more than 7.5lbs on the Merlin, but would there not be enough counterweights to balance that? Or would the gimbal just not work properly with more weight than 7.5lbs?

I'm worried that 7.5lbs might be cutting it too close for me. I'll be shooting a Canon 5dmk2, ideally with the vertical grip and fast L lenses. The body weighs 3lbs with the grip, and lenses would be in the 1-1.5 lb range. I plan on using a follow focus mounted to minimal carbon fiber rails. Manufacturer says this should be under 3 lbs. So, I am up to 7.5lbs. I'd rather be somewhere in the middle of a range, rather than at the top. I plan on shooting pretty wide open, so i think the FF is a must. I could lose the extra battery and grip and remove 1 lb from the setup.

It sounds like the Merlin is a really nice piece of equipment and I would upgrade to a large model, but the jump is from $2500, for the Merlin and Arm, to $10,000-$15,000 it seems. The other option is to get the Indian Glidecam knockoff that Edouard Saba bought, The Flycam 6000 with its articulated arm. I realize the build quality may not be as high, but this isn't going to be handled by anyone but me or my asst and it can hold nearly 30lbs. I could have monitor options, Hocus Focus, etc.

Does anyone know another solution?

Thanks,

greg

I've compared all of these rigs and the steadicam brand is far superior in both build and design.If you can swing it....buy a steadicam.Sure all of these other companies can fly your camera but will they last? I'm a true believer in "you get what you pay for".

Ryan

Do you mean you had the chance to see with your eyes the Proaim 7000? And how can you say it won't last? Only because it is cheaper?

Believe it or not, I get great results from the super simple SteadyTracker. It kind of doubles as pseudo monopod too.

do you have the ultralite version?

Are LensRentals planning on covering video? Looking through their site I mostly saw still stuff. For example I couldn't find a fluid head (or even a glidecam).

Yep, Lens Rentals is starting to stock video stuff. They've got full Z7 and EX1 kits, and Letus Elite Setups, as well as other video and audio gear.

LensRentals.com - Rent Video Lenses and Cameras (http://www.lensrentals.com/for-video)

I gave away my Glidescam years ago just because of that, it's useless for anyting more for a casual test shot for Youtube or Vimeo. This sort of stabilizing product (without an arm and a vest) by far is the most useless production tool I've owned.
Try to hold the camera with let's say 2.8 70-200mm lens (just for weight reference) in front of you with one hand and count the seconds before your hand starts to shake - now you know how usable is a glidescam in the real world.

In the other hand a tool like this shouldn't be used for every shot so maybe it is usable for some - at least it works better for walking/tracking than a shoulder mounted option.

T

The Glidecam with the 5D is a GREAT combo, but with the right lens. A 5D + 16-35 or even a 24-70 is still far lighter than a video rig. Its flyable with a longer lens like the 70-200, but you'll need the vest. The real challenge becomes holding a frame at that focal range though, which is difficult regardless of what you are flying. Even on the long end of the 24-70, its tough to hold a frame.

I'm not familiar with all the cheaper Steady/Smoother Tracker units, but the general rule is no gimbal= no good. The steadicam gear is obviously higher quality, but for the price/portability/throw around factor, it's hard to beat the Glidecam series.

The Glidecam with the 5D is a GREAT combo, but with the right lens. A 5D + 16-35 or even a 24-70 is still far lighter than a video rig. Its flyable with a longer lens like the 70-200, but you'll need the vest. The real challenge becomes holding a frame at that focal range though, which is difficult regardless of what you are flying. Even on the long end of the 24-70, its tough to hold a frame.

Yes, this is the biggest problem.

I have constructed a light weight rod mount for the 5D.

Chroziel Matte Box, Red Rock Follow Focus, support mount for the camera body and an Anton Bauer Dionic/Hytron gold mount all supported on carbon fibre 15mm rods.

The base which supports the camera body will mount to the Steadycam Pilot mouning plate as well as standard tripod mountig plates.

The only thing I had to change was the monitor that comes with the Pilot. In it's place I chose a nine inch 1080p HiDef monitor. (My personal preference; the 7 inch monitor which comes standard works, it's just not as pretty!

If anyone would like more information on my rig, please feel free to email me at lexicon.demon@gmail.com or by cell phone at (323) 649-6079

I hope others find this helpful.

Regards

If my memory served me, the Pilot is under $4,000.00.

I plan to offer the rig and the Steadycam as a complete package.

I'm not familiar with all the cheaper Steady/Smoother Tracker units, but the general rule is no gimbal= no good. The steadicam gear is obviously higher quality, but for the price/portability/throw around factor, it's hard to beat the Glidecam series.
I have a Glidecam; it does a good job when walking but I never use it if I'm not - I just use a tripod.

But - I'm interested in the U-Boat Commander. U-Boat Commander: Ship-Shape and Ready for Duty! - iDC Photography (http://www.idcphotography.com/blog/bruce-dorn/u-boat-commander-ship-shape-and-ready-duty)
Has anyone tried this? I've built a cheapo hardware store version to test the concept and it works better than I expected. The idea is to use two hands, pushing together a bit, so the two hands stabilize each other; plus the unit is more stable in pitch. This is probably an old idea in the video world, but it seems to work with the 5DII.

Just thought I'd mention that the Canon 5D Mark II with 24-105 "Standard Kit" lens "Recipe" has been added to the Merlin cookbook Welcome to Tiffen - Steadicam Merlin Cookbook Settings (http://www.merlincookbook.com/)

My hats off to you guys if you can fly the 5D AND operate a follow focus at the same time. That's what an AC (assistant camera operator) is for. Grin!

My hats off to you guys if you can fly the 5D AND operate a follow focus at the same time. That's what an AC (assistant camera operator) is for. Grin!

I don't know about everyone else here but I certainly never intended to try to operate the thing without a crew.

Believe it or not, I get great results from the super simple SteadyTracker. It kind of doubles as pseudo monopod too.

I have one of these on the way. Are you still enjoying it? Also, I heard that it takes a lot of practice?

Hi,

Can anyone compare the Magic Arm 6000 to ProAim 7000?
Here is a link to the 6000 system
The CineCity :: Flycam Stabilization systems :: Flycam Stablization Steadicam system :: Magic Arm & vest with Flycam 6000 stabilizer steadycam Steadicam for DV HDV upto 22LBS camera Weight (http://www.thecinecity.com/tcc/product.php?productid=41&cat=243&page=1)

Here is the link to the 7000 system
The CineCity :: Flycam Stabilization systems :: Flycam Stablization Steadicam system :: PROAIM7000 REVERSE ARM + DV VEST + FLYCAM 6000 Stabilizer Steadicam for camera weighing from 1 to 15 kg (http://www.thecinecity.com/tcc/product.php?productid=3&cat=243&page=1)

Both systems are using the FlyCam 6000
3 major differences I can point out so far are
1. The type of vest that they're using
2. The amount of weight that they claim to be carrying
3. While 7000 has some adjustment knobs 6000 doesn't

I'm particularly curious about what these knobs do, and how the absence of them would affect operation. It seems like they have something to do with shooting low, could somebody explain this?

Also I'd like to get some feedback on whether one vest type is better than the other.

Thank you very much.

I own a Merlin and just used a Glidecam 2000 on a commercial job pretty extensively as it turned out and was surprisingly pleased with the results. Killer on the wrist but for short moves it's actually pretty good. Full writeup on the blog at:

Robin Schmidt, Director, Editor and DSLR mentalist – GLIDECAM 2000 vs STEADICAM MERLIN – WHICH ONE TO BUY? (http://www.elskid.com/blog/?p=1687)

Hope that helps

Robin

Great, great info, thanks for posting Robin. It's interesting to have it confirmed in your write-up that the Glidecam 2000 is a killer on the hand due to it's design of the pivot point (i.e. not directly above the wrist as with the Merlin).

That's specifically why I opted for the Merlin (for 7D flying) - my scientific/engineering/analytical background coming into play I think! I wanted (and do) hand-held (no vest) for about an hour with no problems - long enough to get a few of those "wow" shots for the edit - corporate stuff in my case - when everything goes right that is! Also, a big factor was that it folded down small and was light (for backpack stowing easily WITH the Canon gear when I go off walking).

I agree also that the Merlin is a bit "twitchy"/difficult to master. I'm getting much better - after lots and lots of practice! My clients LOVE some of the results too but forget about using it in anything more than a very light breeze!

I bought the Pilot about six weeks ago. I discovered there was no way a Canon 5D with a 16-35mm lens and with a Manfrotto Quick Release is going to mount on the plate. The mounting plate holes on the Pilot don't line up with the Manfrotto Quick Release. Also, it is hard to get the center of gravity on this combination to fit half an inch back from the Pilot's Gimbal. The center of gravity of this camera/lens combination appears to be at the base of the lens. I had the Pilot Plate drilled and tapped, then mounted a half inch piece of wood to the plate with the Quick Release on top. The wood is there so you can tighten down the Quick Release and have full operatability of the tightening lever. Then I mounted the camera. I have two weights on top and two finishing weights. I have the same thing on the bottom. The gimbal is about 4" below the plate. I understand that you don't want to go more than 6" below the plate.

I have had quite a bit of trouble getting use to the vest and when I connect the camera to the arm, it flies all over the place! Guess I am still learning. But the thing that really bothers me is the pain in my back. I actually Google;d pain, back backache, steadicam pilot, but nothing came up!
Anyway, just to let you know that for some people the Pilot may not be the answer....

Tim

Tim:

Disturbing to hear that you are experiencing back pain with such a light setup. That the arm is "flying all over the place" makes me think perhaps that you should focus on dialing in the two-axis adjustment at the socket block so that you can stand normally and have the rig float next to you without stress. If it's misadjusted, this could cause back pain since you have to stand and walk at an angle.

The rig should fly at your side, not in front of you--this could also be stressing your back.

Properly adjusted, a Steadicam should not hurt your back. It's a workout to a degree, so those who have spinal issues should proceed with caution. Again, the amount of mass involved with a Pilot and DSLR is small enough that it shouldn't result in discomfort.

The absolutely best way to go is to invest in the two day Flyer/Pilot workshop that Tiffen sponsors (they had one in Boston not long ago). The instructor can take a look at your flying posture and immediately correct issues. Barring that, if you can get someone to shoot you in the rig and post it, I would be able to do the same. The sooner you take a workshop, the less the possibility of locking into bad habits with the rig.

I would recommend a slider if you want to add movement to your shots. Without a remote follow focus (expensive) it's tricky to use a DSLR on a Steadicam unless you just stay very wide.

http://www.glidetrack.com/

Completely different utility--while it's challenging to replicate the precision of a good slider with a body-mounted stabilizer, it's impossible to replicate any of the OTHER kinds of shots the stabilizer is capable of with the slider! Both have their place.

I personally find the design of the Glidetrack lacking; sliders need precision bearings to truly achieve the best results. The friction inherent in the Glidetrack requires a lot more work from the operator to get a smooth move. I know a lot of people feel it gets the job done, but the price difference between that and a "proper" slider is relatively minimal.

I have just received the Blackbird, and have already set it up with T2i, and I can see how it is improving already over my DIY attempts. Next step is the 5D.

I personally find the design of the Glidetrack lacking; sliders need precision bearings to truly achieve the best results. The friction inherent in the Glidetrack requires a lot more work from the operator to get a smooth move. I know a lot of people feel it gets the job done, but the price difference between that and a "proper" slider is relatively minimal.

THREAD HIJACK: I'm about to buy a Glidetrack, care to recommend an alternative?

Hi Mitchell:

Saw that you posted also in the Glidetrack thread. I'll respond here as it pertains to my outlook on stabilizers as well.

My perspective on much of this kind of gear is that I am used to the higher-end, full-size versions that these downscaled versions are based upon. Thus my sensibility is based on what things "should" feel like. In the case of stabilizers, while I can try on a Glidecam or Flycam or whatevercam and sense what is and isn't good about the design, someone who is new to stabilizers might think any of them are great because you can walk and not see your footsteps in the shot. With the small stabilizers I am enthusiastic about the Steadicam brand because they are the closest to a full-size stabilizer in feel and allow one to deliver the shot with a minimum amount of compensation. While one can conceivably make an acceptable shot with nearly any commercial stabilizer, you will have to work harder to do so, and it's in the subtle nuances that may make it a fantastic shot are where certain rigs start to show their advantages.

Same as with the sliders. Many were unaware of this concept before Phil Bloom popularized them a couple of years ago starting with the Glidetrack. We've had them for full-size cameras for a number of years (I know the gents who build the "Original Slider") and they have always incorporated bearings, so the concept of a friction-based unit always surprised me. I used them a Glidetrack on a shoot early this year and was underwhelmed at having to "create" the smoothness (with varying results). I couldn't quite figure out why so many people were raving about it--but then I remembered that most if not all had never worked with an alternative.

I've played with a few others here and there but not extensively so I'm hesitant to endorse a single product. The DP Slider is one. Here's (http://www.dvinfo.net/forum/dolly-track-cable/471725-introducing-dp-slider.html#post1478010) an illuminating piece of discourse regarding the perspective I described above, where one gent describes his non-bearing slider as being perfectly smooth and unable to understand how it could be smoother, and the response is "it just is".

And again, just as with stabilizers; if you haven't tried the best, the one you have is the best that you know.

Thanks Charles. After watching all the demo videos, combined with your comments, I'm not going to buy a slider. We have the Steadicam Flyer and it works awesome (although I still could be a better operator).

I just don't see us using a slider as much as I thought. Plus, if it's not smooth, that would make it's usage frustrating.

On the other hand, if we didn't have a Steadicam already (and couldn't afford one) I'd give the Glidetrack a try for sure.

Thanks again for the advice. :)

I own both a Steadicam Merlin and the CobraCrane SteadyTracker.

I was going to sell my SteadyTracker after I purchased the Merlin, but I plan on keeping it. The Merlin, I find, is horrible in wind. Perhaps that is down to a fairly inexperienced person operating it, I just find it wants to rotate around once moderate wind hits it. For that reason I switch to the gimble-less SteadyTracker.

I also prefer the SteadyTracker when running with the 5D. For internals and no-wind externals, I use the Merlin.

Chris ...

I have a Merlin, which was previously used with my Canon XHA1. I'm all DSLR now and wanted to know if you do indeed think it'd be a good thing to try the steadytracker. My time to "practice" operating on a regular basis is tough - so something relatively robust (and forgiving in terms of practice) would be very helpful.

Thanks,

--Brandon

I've been using the Hague Camcorder Stabilizer steadicam for the past few years and it works great. Like all steadicams, the more that you use them the better and smoother your footage becomes. Without a doubt using steadicam equipment with the 5D takes it to another level. The most important thing that I've found is that you must take time to set up the steadicam correctly so that the whole unit is rock steady with no 'roll'.
Here is the one that I use, with quick release plate and plus forward/backwards & sideways weight/level adjustments.
HAGUE Camcorder Stabilizer HCS (http://www.b-hague.co.uk/hague_camcorder_stabilizer_hcs_steadicam_type_stabilizer.htm)