I want to use my FX1 to shoot footage in clubs and at gigs. What settings would you recommend to get the best results? Won't be shooting interviews, just live footage of bands/DJs performing (Sorry if this is an obvious question but I'm pretty new to this)

Thanks

Tim

i wouldnt push past 12db, and you can drop the shuter to 1/30 with great results!

...and don't zoom in too far or you'll lose even more light...

The FX1 gives excellent footage shot at +18dB of gain up so don't be afraid to go there. Stick to wide-angle and move about rather than zooming up - remember you need 3x as much light falling on the subject if you want to film at full tele rather than wide-angle.

Don't use any filters or converter lenses as they lose you some light too. And use the slow shutter speeds for motion blur effects - it can look very good at times.

A small on-camera light can be good - look at the Sony 20-DW2.

tom.

Make sure you're in SPOTLIGHT mode under theatrical lighting conditions or the faces will be blown out as the camera tries to pull up the blacks. Even so, use your Zebras to see if the faces are being overexposed, and make sure to lock into Indoor white balance (never Auto).

Thanks guys, really appreciated. What wide angle lenses would you recommend? There appear to be a huge different between the cheapest lenses and the most expensive. Do you get what you pay for in this regard?

Oh yes, you get what you pay for all right. The cheaper lenses will generally flare more, distort more and wil sometimes vignette the image too.

make sure you get one you can "zoom through", the Sony lens works this way,
and although it is a pain to screw on and off, it works great!

There again I beg to differ. I've tested and used a great deal of wide-angle converters and I greatly admire the non zoom-through types. Of course you can still zoom, my Z1 goes from 0 to 65 with the non zoom-through wide-converter in place, 0 to 100 without.

Non zoomthroughs are generally single elements, so are cheaper, lighter, more compact and flare less. They also have more CA, but there you go.

tom.

To put this into context I have seen the following advertised on ebay:

SONY VCL-HG0872 72mm WIDE ANGLE CONVERTER LENS - £265

Tokina 0.5X High Definition Professional Wide Angle Lens - £56

Digital Concepts 0.43X High Definition Professional Wide Angle Lens w/MACRO - £45

I assume the bottom two shouldn't be touched with a barge pole unless you are on a really tight budget?

Are these all zoom-through and all 72 mm fit, Tim? Sounds an amazing price for the Tokina if it is. But the Sony is a 0.8x (so will show very little barrel distortion, and I actually have one for sale), whereas the others are more powerful 0.5x.

I'm thinking that the Digital Concepts (who?) have just made up their 0.43x figure - I mean, specifying it to two decimal places when production tolerances would be hard pushed to get it in one decimal place.

tom.

Hmmm, not sure. Doesn't sound like it at that price I guess. (I assume "zoom through" is simply the ability zoom in/out when the wide angle lens is attached?)

Sorry to be such a pain but what does the multiple refer to? I had thought that x0.8 was more 'powerful' than x0.5 for example.

Is there a good database of these lenses anywhere to check for value/effect etc?

Tim, go look at the Raynox site for a very good explanation of lenses and what the values mean, with examples at the click of a mouse.

OK, quick maths lesson. Say you have a 10x zoom that goes from 5 mm to 50 mm. If you attach a 0.5x converter you still have a 10x zoom, but it now goes from 2.5 mm to 25 mm. A 0.8x would give you a 4 to 40 mm zoom.

With the converter in place you'll get more flare, distortion and it will be less sharp, but the losses are small these days and more importantly the focal lengths may be much more to your liking.

tom.

Excuse me Tom, bu from what i tested at 18DB i can see a lot of grain.....Maybe am i missing anything?
Thx

You don't say what camera you have Marcus so you may be quite correct. But if you have a Z1 or FX1 then you'll find the +18dB of gain up is very usable indeed, and a lot better than coming home with under-exposed footage.

I've filmed entire (gloomy) wedding services using this gain setting. Sony have ensurred there's softening added to smooth the grain and of course the colours are subdued, but overall I've been pleasantly surprised by how good the results can look.

And remember this - brides won't complain about grainy pictures but they sure will complain about grainy sound. Get the latter right and you're home and dry.

tom.

But the Sony is a 0.8x (so will show very little barrel distortion, and I actually have one for sale), whereas the others are more powerful 0.5x.


What lens do you have for sale Tom?

Hope I'm not transgressing by saying I have the Sony VCL-HG0872 wide-angle converter for sale.

Mod note - This post has been edited: please see below - thanks

Hope I'm not transgressing by saying I have the Sony VCL-HG0872 wide-angle converter for sale

Tom: Sorry, but we do frown on listing forsale items in the camera forums; it just gets too messy. Please use the private classified forum or private e-mail for this kind of thing (http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/private-classifieds/) - thanks!

Thanks Boyd, and magically the classified section has now become available to me.

Thanks Boyd, and magically the classified section has now become available to me.

Unfortunately I still cannot access this. Tom - just sent you an e-mail

What's up Tom?I got a z1....
U right about the bride!Have a nice weekend overseas

MM

Unfortunately I still cannot access this. Tom - just sent you an e-mailI think you have to be registered for 60 days, then it magically appears...

Tom, your point is very valid. High gain / grain is never a good thing but there are some shooting situations that require the lesser of two evils. If someone has a no grain obsession, you will wind up with near useless footage in low light situations. If you don't have enough exposure to get reasonable chroma and luma depth, there is nothing you can do in post to bring out what isn't there. When you are shooting, you have to take into consideration the shooting conditions as they are and shoot accordingly.

You can do some pretty amazing things in post to reduce grain with tools such as Neat Video. Sure it will soften the video a bit (but less that you might think), but the resulting edited footage is vastly better than a dark underexposed video. In other words, when shooting, the objective is to shoot the best possible footage considering the realities of the shooting conditions. When the conditions aren't optimal, you have to make compromises that take the actual shooting conditions into account. A slightly soft video that has been degrained in post is vastly better that a dark underexposed one. Who cares if there is no grain in a miserably dark piece of footage!?