I'm just curious to hear how many other folks have resorted to purchasing Nikon or other lenses to get around the 5D MK II's lack of manual video controls?

I have purchased two Nikkors (24/2.8 AIS, 50/1.4 AIS) myself and am probably going to be picking up another one or two to round out my collection. Perhaps an 85 and then maybe a 135. Or maybe just a 105. Not sure yet...

I currently have 4 Nikon lenses (3 of which I like) and plan on 2 more (a 28mm and a 200, if I can afford it). And I might replace the one lens I have that I don't like (a 35mm 2.8, as memory serves).

I purchased one Canon lens, the 24-70L series, primarily for still use. I am holding off on further NEW lens purchases until I know the details of which mount -- Canon or Nikon -- will be available first for the RED Scarlet (which I will be buying as soon as it's available).

In the mean time, I may pick up a couple of used Nikons with an aperture ring to use for video on the 5D Mk II. Were it not for the lack of aperture control with Canon lenses in video mode, I would have already purchased at least the 70-200 L zoom new and possibly a prime or two.

I purchased one Canon lens, the 24-70L series, primarily for still use. I am holding off on further NEW lens purchases until I know the details of which mount -- Canon or Nikon -- will be available first for the RED Scarlet (which I will be buying as soon as it's available).

In the mean time, I may pick up a couple of used Nikons with an aperture ring to use for video on the 5D Mk II. Were it not for the lack of aperture control with Canon lenses in video mode, I would have already purchased at least the 70-200 L zoom new and possibly a prime or two.

As I mentioned in another post, I have been shooting with Canon bodies for 4 or 5 years now and I have purchased a decent collection of L-series zooms already (16-35/2.8L, 17-40/4.0L, 24-70/2.8L, 70-200/4.0L, and 70-200/2.8L IS). I've long been planning to add good primes to my arsenal. Fighting the 5D MK II's auto mode has triggered these purchases for me, and I feel like Nikon primes are my only choice at the moment. I was just curious how many other folks have already headed down this path or are planning to.

I wanted to buy EF 24mm TS-E and 16-35mm 2.8 L but went with third party manual lenses for Nikon. I have several EF L lenses all discarded now.
Manual lenses for Nikon made by Cosina, Tokina etc are really cheap and will resolve the 2K image nicely.
I could imagine that several CRM trainings per week take place in Canon dealerships on how to deal with customers who ask "why"? On how to distract customers.

T

I have also bought 4 Nikon lenses:

50mm f1.8
35mm f2
18-35mm f3.5-4.5
28-105mm f3.5-4.5

I bought used, but they're still Nikon... 50mm f/1.4 and an 85mm f/1.8. I have a couple of Canon L lenses, and some other non-L Canon glass (all of which I purchased before the 5D mk II), but for video I use the Nikon glass.

Julian

Nikkor AIS:
20mm f2.8
24mm f2.8
28mm f2.8
35mm f2
50mm f1.4 f1.8
85mm f2
105mm f2.5
135mm f2.8

Nikkor D
28-105mm f3.5-4.5
75-240mm f4.5-5.6

Pentax:
SMC Takumar 50mm 1.4
Super Multi Coated Takumar 135mm f3.5
Super Takumar 200mm f4

I don't have a Nikon body. These are used exclusively on the MkII

one Nikon so far 85mm 1.8 and plan to purchase a couple more

Contax/Zeiss 35-70 f3.4. I plan on getting a few Contax/Zeiss primes as well.

I've got 24mm, 50mm and 200mm Nikon primes, but nothing fancy. The 105mm f/2.5 is next on the list. For now, we're untwisting the Canon 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS to cover that range.

Just in case anyone wants to read up on the various lenses ....

All Tests / Reviews (http://www.photozone.de/Reviews/overview)

a dissenting opinion...

I'm buying zero nikon lenses because I want to use my expensive L lenses for video. I have been twisting the lens, which works well, but I have an idea for a thin Mylar insulator to isolate the lens electronics. I'm going to cut it into a disk with the inner and outer diameters just right for fitting in the mount without getting in the light path. Then the lens cannot fall off, and there is no chance of junk from adhesive tape getting into the camera.

I will lock the lens onto an aperture while removing the lens, place the Mylar disk in the mount, and remount the lens. I will post my results. Now I just have to find out where to get Mylar plastic.

I'm buying zero nikon lenses because I want to use my expensive L lenses for video.

If I could afford a tidy range of L series glass I might do the same :-)

One of the nice things about using old manual lenses is their affordability.

If I could afford a tidy range of L series glass I might do the same :-)

One of the nice things about using old manual lenses is their affordability.

I forget that some people get the 5D2 only for video. I realize the lens quality may not matter as much in video mode.

I justified the 5D2 for my still work, where I've already accumulated the lenses over the years. In still mode the lens quality is everything, especially for the 5D2.

Of course if you could afford $2,700 for the camera, surely you can get one or two good lenses to go with it.

Mylar, as in balloon material?

a dissenting opinion...

I'm buying zero nikon lenses because I want to use my expensive L lenses for video. I have been twisting the lens, which works well, but I have an idea for a thin Mylar insulator to isolate the lens electronics. I'm going to cut it into a disk with the inner and outer diameters just right for fitting in the mount without getting in the light path. Then the lens cannot fall off, and there is no chance of junk from adhesive tape getting into the camera.

I will lock the lens onto an aperture while removing the lens, place the Mylar disk in the mount, and remount the lens. I will post my results. Now I just have to find out where to get Mylar plastic.

Mylar, as in balloon material?

Mylar is a polystyrene plastic that is very strong and stretch resistant. Even in 0.00048 inch thick sheets it can handle a lot of force without deforming. For balloons, they sputter a layer of aluminum on the inside surface to make it reflective but mainly to hold helium in. The aluminum is also so thin the material stays somewhat flexible.

Mylar's second biggest use is as an electric insulator. Mylar capacitors are electronic devices that have very thin Mylar of great length rolled up with an electrolyte in the layers. Even though the Mylar is thin, it can block up to thousands of volts. It is also strong so none of the electrolyte can leak through and short out the capacitor.

These insulating and strength properties make it perfect for what I'm going to try to do. It will provide a layer of insulation between the pins on the camera and the lens contacts. It can do this even when very thin.

The thinness is of utmost importance since thickness in the disc might cause the mount to be too tight and might even freeze it in place after turning the lens too hard. Luckily Mylar is also a slippery plastic so the lens should be able to rotate smoothly while mounting or demounting. It is also used to line pipes to reduce friction, like Teflon. (Can you tell I like Mylar?)

The strength is important so the Mylar isn't shredded by the mount as the lens is screwed in. I will experiment with different thicknesses, starting at 48 gauge (0.00048 inches). With luck this thickness will be strong enough and I'm quite sure that is thin enough to allow the lens to close when mounting.

I did some googling for Mylar but I haven't found a supplier for a small qty yet. Office supply stores and art/craft stores carry it, but I fear they will only have 300 to 500 gauge film which is used for overlays, stencils, printing on ink jets or lasers, etc. I want to start my tests with 48 gauge, then 100, then 150, etc.

I will probably start with the smallest I can find in local stores and be careful not to force the lens in with too much torque. I've gotten myself so excited I'm going straight to the stores in the morning.

If this works I could mail these to others who want to try them. They could be mailed in an envelope and the envelope would look empty since Mylar is thin and transparent.