Jeff Harrell
December 30th, 2008, 04:22 PM
I'm using an XL H1 (classic; not the S model) and an Edirol R4 Pro to record dual-system sound. I've done various tests to find the best way of synchronizing them — camera set to rec-run, roll camera first then roll sound; R4 set to internal, camera set to external TC; etc. — but I always get the same result: The sound is always somewhere between three and ten frames ahead of the picture. This is true regardless of whether I'm shooting 60i or 24F.
Now, let's be clear: Being able to get sound within half a second of sync automatically before slipping it into place by hand is a great improvement over not having any automated synchronization at all. But it's not perfect, since I still need a reference of some kind to sync my sound. For drama, that's no big shakes, since every take gets a slate anyway. But I shoot a lot of documentary material, where slating is awkward or downright impossible.
My workaround is to record on-board sound as well as outboard sound and use the on-tape sound as a sync reference. Which is fine, I'd be doing that anyway just in case, but it'd still be great to figure out how to sync these two devices in such a way that they're frame-accurate.
Does anybody out there have any pointers for me?
(I omitted almost all the details of the various tests I've done, just to keep this short.)
Now, let's be clear: Being able to get sound within half a second of sync automatically before slipping it into place by hand is a great improvement over not having any automated synchronization at all. But it's not perfect, since I still need a reference of some kind to sync my sound. For drama, that's no big shakes, since every take gets a slate anyway. But I shoot a lot of documentary material, where slating is awkward or downright impossible.
My workaround is to record on-board sound as well as outboard sound and use the on-tape sound as a sync reference. Which is fine, I'd be doing that anyway just in case, but it'd still be great to figure out how to sync these two devices in such a way that they're frame-accurate.
Does anybody out there have any pointers for me?
(I omitted almost all the details of the various tests I've done, just to keep this short.)