Contrast raises and lowers the under 25IRE range.

Dynamic Range raises the entire signal range. On a very bright day with bright blue sky and bright white clouds, DR = 2 looks great on the LCD but on a waveform monitor the peak white highlights are way over 110IRE. And, looking at the images -- the highlights are blown-out.

So in high-contrast situations (indoors or outdoors) a DR of 1 is perfect with peaks about 110IRE.

You can increase the contrast of the scene by setting Contrast to +1 or +2 (see below). But, you are crushing shadow detail. You are losing latitude you can never get back.

You can gain latitude by setting Contrast to -1 or -2. However, Contrast of -2 may prevent any true deep blacks (0IRE). I still need to check this.

You'll be safer to do CC if you choose C = -1 (Black Expand) because your video will be close to how your eyes see the scene. But, before you CC it may look "flat."

If you leave C = 0, you'll likely not need to CC. It should look very good.

If you set C = +1 (Black Compress) you'll have a more dramatic look.

If you set C = +2 (Black Compress) you'll have that crushed NO shadow detail "film" look that is so popular now.


Saturation of 1 viewed on a vectorscope does add a bit more chroma. But, I would reserve S = +2 for overcast days when you need more color punch.

Indoors where chroma noise can be a problem I'd keep S = 0. And, here is where a C of +1 or even +2 can help. The more shadows are pushed into black, the more noise is eliminated.

Never add light to shadows. Use a strong high-light and let everything else fall into black.