Hi Everyone,

I'm doing a documentary right now, and conducting interviews indoors. I'm looking for a dirt cheap lighting kit simply for lighting the subjects I'm interviewing. Any suggestions? My budget is constrained, so I'm looking to buy around the $300-$700 range. Any suggestions? I'm shooting on an XH A1. Thank you for your time.

It doesn't get any cheaper than fluorescents from skaeser.com. The lights you need depend on the situations. Fluorescents are nice for interviews because they're cool, don't pull much power and you can get either 3200 or daylight bulbs. Coollights.biz has some fluorescents too that are very reasonable if you get the 2-bulb non-dimmable units. Softboxes are nice but a bit of a pain to set up and tear down in a hurry if you have to move fast. Fluorescents don't have much throw but are very nice for lighting interviews.

Some other low cost options:

- Lowell Tota-Light + Umbrella
- 250-400 watt fresnel
- Lowell Ego Light - accepts everyday flourescents
- China balls
- Lowell Rifa Light also accepts flourescents

Bill and Michael,

Thank you for your suggestions. I have been researching them all day, and I'm thinking about going with the Lowel Tota-Light+Umbrella. More specifically, I'm thinking of getting the Lowel Tota-Pak. I'm only lighting one person at a time for these interviews, and feel it will be enough if I place it far enough in back of the camera to diffuse it. What are your thoughts? Am I cool beans? :-)

Thank you once again for all your help.

Kareem

Also, do you feel a camera-mounted light could get the job done as well? I'm looking at the NRG VARALUX PROFESSIONAL. Any thoughts?

Also, do you feel a camera-mounted light could get the job done as well? I'm looking at the NRG VARALUX PROFESSIONAL. Any thoughts?

If you would like your subject to look as bad as you could possibly make them look with a light, then this is a terrific option.

If you want to flatter your subject at all, then you will never, ever, choose this.

Bill and Michael,

Thank you for your suggestions. I have been researching them all day, and I'm thinking about going with the Lowel Tota-Light+Umbrella. More specifically, I'm thinking of getting the Lowel Tota-Pak. I'm only lighting one person at a time for these interviews, and feel it will be enough if I place it far enough in back of the camera to diffuse it. What are your thoughts? Am I cool beans? :-)

Thank you once again for all your help.

Kareem

The further away you place the light, the less soft it will be. With a tungsten light like the Tota, the closer you place the light, the hotter the person will be. I'd give the average person 3-4 minutes before they get uncomfortable and begin to sweat.

Buy a fluorescent setup. Seriously.

Buy this:
Lowel | Rifa-Lite EX55 Softbox Light Kit, LB40 Soft | LC-95LBZ (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/285875-REG/Lowel_LC_95LBZ_Rifa_Lite_EX55_Softbox_Light.html#includes)

And this:
Lowel | Rifa eXchange Fluorescent 3- Lamp Module | FLO-X3 | B&H (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/497651-REG/Lowel_FLO_X3_Rifa_eXchange_Fluorescent_3_.html)

And some compact fluorescent bulbs, and you'll be golden.

You can put this light 3 feet from your talent and they'll never feel any heat. folds up small, comes with a stand and diffuser, easy as can be.

Has anyone had any

The further away you place the light, the less soft it will be. With a tungsten light like the Tota, the closer you place the light, the hotter the person will be. I'd give the average person 3-4 minutes before they get uncomfortable and begin to sweat.

Buy a fluorescent setup. Seriously.

Buy this:
Lowel | Rifa-Lite EX55 Softbox Light Kit, LB40 Soft | LC-95LBZ (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/285875-REG/Lowel_LC_95LBZ_Rifa_Lite_EX55_Softbox_Light.html#includes)

And this:
Lowel | Rifa eXchange Fluorescent 3- Lamp Module | FLO-X3 | B&H (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/497651-REG/Lowel_FLO_X3_Rifa_eXchange_Fluorescent_3_.html)

And some compact fluorescent bulbs, and you'll be golden.

You can put this light 3 feet from your talent and they'll never feel any heat. folds up small, comes with a stand and diffuser, easy as can be.


Wow. Thanks Perrone.

Me being a total lighting noob, I have a few more questions. Please forgive my naivete...

1. What is the benefit of the Rifa eXchange Fluorescent 3- Lamp Module?

2. Why do I need compact flourescent bulbs?

Thanks again.

The Rifa lights come standard with 500w, 750w, or 1000w tungsten bulbs. Also known as hot lights. They have the same problem as the Tota. They get HOT. Softboxes need to be fairly close to the talent for best effect. From a couple feet to maybe 6ft. At that distance, especially in small rooms with low ceilings, these things get very uncomfortable in a hurry. I believe they run at 300-400F degrees.

The 3 lamp module replaces the receptacle on the Rifa so that it can accept 3 normal base bulbs. Just like you'd screw into a lamp at home. This makes things nice because you could go out to the store and buy any bulbs off the shelf and put them in your Rifa. It also has an added benefit. You can purchase compact fluorescent bulbs. These bulbs draw far less power for the same light amount as their normal incandescent peers. Essentially 1/3 the power. So a 25w (or 27w) CFL bulbs gives off the same light as a 100w incandescent. But the REAL benefit is that those CFLs give off no real heat. So you can screw 3 of them into the fixture, and place the softbox so that it's just about touching the talent, and they'll never even get warm.

I bought some 2-way adapters today from Home Depot. They turn one receptacle into two. Because of the weird angles in that setup, you can't use all the receptacles. But I think I can fit 6 100w equivalent bulbs in my RIFA now. So I should have the equivalent of 600w of power, with nearly no heat given off.

One more benefit of the CFL bulbs. Tungsten light (what comes stock with the Rifa, and most cheaper pro lighting kits, is rated at about a 3200K to 3500k temperature. Normal daylight generally falls betwen 5000K and 5600K. At least according to Hollywood. The CFL bulbs are available in a variety of color temperatures. This lets you match either other tungsten lights you might buy or daylight simply by screwing in different bulbs. So if you have to shoot in a room with a window, you can simply screw in some daylight colored bulbs. With the other tungsten fixtures, you'd have to break out the gels.

Those large hot lights have their place. Like when I have to light up a stage or a large room. But for a sit-down interview in an office or a small space, fluorescent is the way to go when possible. Beautiful soft light, no heat.

Given your budget you should invest in a couple of reflectors for your "fill lights". I would get a "silver" reflector disc and a "soft gold" one. You will probably want a brace for the reflector to attach to a stand as well.

To speak to the florescent pitch. While I largely agree, I would not want to show up with just a florescent kit. If you want an eye light or a kicker a Lowel Pro does well and they aren't too expensive.

The idea of taking a Rifa and doing the florescent mod is a really good one IMO although the great thing about stock Rifas with tungsten bulbs is they are super compact and have a lot of throw. "Throw" and "punch" are not things you generally associate with florescent rigs.

Given your budget you should invest in a couple of reflectors for your "fill lights". I would get a "silver" reflector disc and a "soft gold" one. You will probably want a brace for the reflector to attach to a stand as well.


Absolutely agree with this. No light better than free light. And reflectors emit no heat.


To speak to the florescent pitch. While I largely agree, I would not want to show up with just a florescent kit. If you want an eye light or a kicker a Lowel Pro does well and they aren't too expensive.


Agree here also, but if you are balancing to daylight, and trying to soften that Pro light with a bit of diffusion, you are going to run out of lumens pretty fast. I generally take my DP lights, which lets me keep that heat away from the talent. I don't work with pros so working distance is important to me.


The idea of taking a Rifa and doing the florescent mod is a really good one IMO although the great thing about stock Rifas with tungsten bulbs is they are super compact and have a lot of throw. "Throw" and "punch" are not things you generally associate with florescent rigs.

I think you'd be surprised how much throw you can get out of a Rifa with 500-600 equivalent watts of fluorescents in there. Certainly enough to light a complete small office should the need arise. Or hold up well against an unshaded window. Taking it outside is another matter. But even then, since it's so cool, you can use it for close fill. A reflector could be useful as well, but they don't work as well under silks. Fortunately, I don't do much outdoor work.

I think you'd be surprised how much throw you can get out of a Rifa with 500-600 equivalent watts of fluorescents in there.

I know there is another Rifa (http://www.lowel.com/kits_rifa.html) in my future, probably a 66 (http://www.lowel.com/rifa/), so I am looking forward to this. Thanks for the pitch Perrone!

For those that haven't used Rifa's they are simply amazing units. Setup and strike time is less than a minute, they look like a closed umbrella in your bag along with your small light stand and you get beautiful forgiving soft light. No suitcase, C-stand or Pelican required.

Perrone, how do you store/carry the Rifa with the florescent fixture in it?

While I agree with Perrone and Andy that reflectors are a wonderful solution AND provide heatless, free light, if you only get two (or a reversible one) make WHITE one of the colours. Silver and gold are HIGHLY specular and add a colour tint to the light being reflected. White produces a much more "normal" fill light. Gold is an effect (and a nice one when used correctly) whereas white is your utility player.

PS. I love my Rifa 55EX and I'm still running tungsten FOR NOW... A softbox is a FANTASTIC lighting solution for lighting people. My "usual" three point solution is:
1. Key light - Rifa 55 w. 500 watt lamp
2. Lowel Pro Light (250 watt) bouncing off a Lowel Silver umbrella
3. Lowel Pro light with barn doors & possibly coloured get for hair/back light (again 250 watts)

Perrone, how do you store/carry the Rifa with the florescent fixture in it?

I don't. They go in a tupperware box. Only problem is now that I've gone from 3 100w daylight bulbs to 6, I'll need a bigger box!

While I agree with Perrone and Andy that reflectors are a wonderful solution AND provide heatless, free light, if you only get two (or a reversible one) make WHITE one of the colours.

HEED THIS! Great point Shaun. And one I didn't think about since I use foamcore and not true reflectors. White foamcore is your FRIEND. The quality of light it gives off is luscious. It can take a hard open faced light and make it look like Fluo. Love the stuff. And I am about to get some real foam. An 8ft x 4ft sheet for a 2 person front light. Gonna bounce the 2k off of it, or two 1ks for soft front fill. Gotta wash those wrinkles away on the talent! :)

I feel like I have received a crash course education in good interview lighting. Thank you all for your help.

So I'm going with the Rifa EX 55 and the 3-lamp module. I will order some foam core along with it. Is BH the best place to get it from? Any other suggestions as to where to purchase from?

Thank you all once again. Seriously, you guys saved my ass.

Get foamcore from staples or where ever. B&H has always treated me well. I've bought $20k in gear from them in the past couple years and never an issue.

Great. Also, are there any compact florescent bulbs you would recommend to buy from BH?

Finally, this may sound like a very lame question, but in terms of energy requirements, is the Rifa okay to plug into a standard house outlet? I know its Edison, but I'm just double-checking.

Thanks again.

Great. Also, are there any compact florescent bulbs you would recommend to buy from BH?


I get my bulbs from Home Depot or Lowes. Just bought 4 more on Friday.


Finally, this may sound like a very lame question, but in terms of energy requirements, is the Rifa okay to plug into a standard house outlet? I know its Edison, but I'm just double-checking.

Volts * amps = watts.

Home voltage = 120
Home outlets are generally either 15 or 20 amps
So you can plug in 120*15 to 120*20. But you better know what else is on that circuit, and how much it's drawing first!

And learn to tell a 20amp circuit from a 15. The outlet looks different.

I use fluorescent so I don't have to worry about this stuff! :)

-P

Excellent. Thank you again.

An excellent course in interview lighting (available on DVD) is "How to Setup, Light and Shoot Great Looking Interviews" from Vortex Media. I highly recommend it.

I have had good luck following his recipe, which is much like Shaun's except he skips the 2nd Prolight that Shaun uses for fill in lieu of a reflector.

I use a Flo softbox from Richard Andrewski's outfit ( Coollights), and a reflector for fill and a prolight with a snoot as a hairlight... works great. (Remember this is mainly a headshot interview. Closeups.)

I highly recommend the DVD as a tool to learn with... There are lot of ways to skin the cat, but the one used here seemed to work easily for me.

Chris

btw, I "duplicated" the $1500 kit for just over half that.

Volts * amps = watts.

Home voltage = 120
Home outlets are generally either 15 or 20 amps
So you can plug in 120*15 to 120*20. But you better know what else is on that circuit, and how much it's drawing first!


As well, actual line voltage changes from location to location. Line voltage is typically NOMINAL 120V AC. You will routinely see line as low as 115V and as high as 120V. In addition, the "tolerance" is built into the breaker (or God forbid, FUSE!). Brand new breakers may be a little more tolerant and allow 16 amps through for hours before popping while older, "worn" breakers may pop at 14 amps, below their rating.

I ASSUME that all household outlets are capable of 1650 watts (110VAC x 15 amps) just to be sure. I HAVE managed to keep 3 of my 600w Redheads going on one circuit for an hour.

The key here is: can you afford to trip a breaker? On a live-to-air interview, NO! On the same circuit as a computer server? NO! (I've taken down TWO servers this way...) In your own house with your family? Ya spins the wheel, ya takes your chances.

Reading this thread with great interest - Photoflex has come out with their CoolStar 150CFL (http://www.photoflex.com/Photoflex_Products/CoolStar_150_CFL/index.html)which is said to fit in any E39 light fixture and is said to pump out the equivalent of a 400 tungsten bulb.

I did find what appears to be the exact same bulb here (http://www.1000bulbs.com/Light_Bulbs/Incandescent_Light_Bulbs/500_to_1500_Watt_Incandescents/500_to_1500_Watt_CFL_Equivalents/34614/?&utm_source=Shoppingcom&utm_medium=shopping+site&utm_campaign=Shoppingcom+datafeed&utm_term=34614) for 1/3 the cost - it appears Photoflex is rebranding this bulb and marking up the price quite a bit.

I'm a n00b on the light fixture nomenclature - is an E39 fixture a standard household light fixture? If so, I already have the softboxes and diffusion panels that this would work with - the price is kinda spendy for a light bulb, but I couldn't find another source for a bulb like this so far.

Any input on what DIY mods would need to be done or is it a matter of the appropriate speed ring to attach a socket to.

Any thoughts?

E-39 is what is referred to more commonly as a mogul socket. Looks like a regular light bulb socket on steroids.

I have the coollights softbox that uses this bulb and I really like it. The wattage is such that you are going to be using the softbox relatively close to the subject, and a reflector fill works pretty well. The version of the softbox Coollights sells comes with a grid... something others charge an arm and a leg for and a pretty important piece of a softbox if you ask me.

Well, based upon what I've researched in the past hour, Photoflex is charging a huge markup for the bulb and carrying case in relation to what can be had out in the wild.

I'm looking at replacing my Lowel Totalite and i-Lite with CF equivalents due to the issue of heat when shooting with my Softboxes (The are video ones, not photo).

Just need to figure out the mount for my existing speedrings - the bulbs are the easy part.

that bulb has a mogul socket .... works well with their starlight lamp head. your right that its pricey through them. i think coollights.biz light is a better buy and 25% more watts as well. i do like that case that comes with it though... although these 8u bulbs are pretty fragile... i trust the box from coollights and if that case does not have fairly ridged walls its useless.

I've converted Photoflex Starlite fixtures to fluorescent with the 8U mogul base 200W CFLs.
Like the daylight color temp and low infrared; hate the HUGE, FRAGILE bulbs. I don't recommend this solution for that reason.

The CDM150 lights by Coollights.biz are a more durable and flexible solution for non-fiction video production work, in my experience.

The key here is: can you afford to trip a breaker? On a live-to-air interview, NO! On the same circuit as a computer server? NO! (I've taken down TWO servers this way...) In your own house with your family? Ya spins the wheel, ya takes your chances.

I've already tripped my house once while lighting for a product shoot. Turns out two ~400W computers, 3 LCD monitors, and 4 home depot 500W work lights probably should not be on the same circuit all at once. Fortunately for me, my render systems were chugging away on a 6+ hour render AND they were both on UPS units! Ahhhh. What a relief! But I had to run to the garage real quick to flip the breaker (in the dark because the idiot that wired my house put 3/4 of the rooms & lights on the same ~10amp circuit). I ran an extension cord from a different part of the house on a different breaker for the lighting.

Good reason to run everything at max for a few minutes before shoot time to make sure you're set for stable power.

10 amp circuit, that is limiting.

But you might have still tripped it with an 18 amp circuit.

How much of a difference is there between the Rifa-Lite EX55 (with its 500 watts) and EX44 (with its 200 watts), in just overall performance and uses?

How much of a difference is there between the Rifa-Lite EX55 (with its 500 watts) and EX44 (with its 200 watts), in just overall performance and uses?

The small light cannot accomodate the 3-lamp fluorescent fixture, which makes it a no go in my view.

The small light cannot accomodate the 3-lamp fluorescent fixture, which makes it a no go in my view.

Are you sure? Because on the B&H website it states the fixture is for all rifa-ex. Thanks for your time.

Are you sure? Because on the B&H website it states the fixture is for all rifa-ex. Thanks for your time.

You are correct and I am wrong:

Lowel Rifa eXchange Accessory Lampheads (http://www.lowel.com/rifa/lampheads.html)

It seems I was mistaking this with the other tungsten lamphead. Good catch and sorry for the confusion.

Any other thoughts about the differences, now that we determined that they can both use the fluorescent exchange. I'm fairly new to lighting, I'm just not that sure whether or not the ex55 is worth the extra money for the 500 watts over the 200 that the ex44 provides.

Matt, in addition to more wattage, you also get a larger surface area which can help with coverage. I bought the 55 more for the size than for the wattage.

And I bought the 88 for much the same reason. I didn't want to get caught not being able to light 2 people seated next to each other. The smaller units are just a bit too small for this I felt.

Note that the small Chimera is the size of the largest Rifa.

I didn't want to get caught not being able to light 2 people seated next to each other.

The people I videotape don't have friends, and therefore this is not an issue for me... <sly grin>

Had I the disposable income when I bought my 55, I may have also bought an 88 at the same time. It's nice to have the compact packaging for transport but you just can't beat a large softbox when you need more coverage.

Buy this:
Lowel | Rifa-Lite EX55 Softbox Light Kit, LB40 Soft | LC-95LBZ (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/285875-REG/Lowel_LC_95LBZ_Rifa_Lite_EX55_Softbox_Light.html#includes)

I'm thinking of buying this kit also.

Sorry to be a pain in the bum, but could anyone tell me the difference between the item linked above and this from their main site: Lowel Rifa eX 55 Kit (http://www.lowel.com/kits/rifa55.html)

Any difference aside from the $320 difference that is.

Chris

Looks like one comes with a hard case, and the other a softbag. In MY opinion. with a softbox (basically fabric) you'll want the hard case. If the fabric comes in contact with anything sharp, you really don't want that to penetrate to your softbox. The hard case just solves problems like this before they start, even though they weigh more.

Looks like one comes with a hard case, and the other a softbag. In MY opinion. with a softbox (basically fabric) you'll want the hard case. If the fabric comes in contact with anything sharp, you really don't want that to penetrate to your softbox. The hard case just solves problems like this before they start, even though they weigh more.

Surely I could make something to protect the softbox... Even if I purchased a bit of plywood to make the softbag a hard case? $320 is rather a lot for that difference alone in my opinion!

Chris

I bought some 2-way adapters today from Home Depot. They turn one receptacle into two. Because of the weird angles in that setup, you can't use all the receptacles. But I think I can fit 6 100w equivalent bulbs in my RIFA now. So I should have the equivalent of 600w of power, with nearly no heat given off.



Hi,

I'm having trouble locating these 2-way adaptors - could anyone provide a link please so I can see what they look like, and hopefully locate an equivalent adaptor in the UK?

peter

The Rifa lites come with a heavy bag that hold everything, so a case necessary. The case holds accessories, light stand, etc.

I like the Lowel soft cases since they are lightweight and excellent quality.

The hard cases are good if you good if you are on the go in a rough fashion, want the rigidy, and maybe have some more delicate pieces, such as a pro light--but the pro light travels well in the soft case as well.. The soft cases have a zipper and the hard cases clasps.

If you are not familiar with the Lowel "lampacks," I highly recommend them. to carry the lamps (bulbs). (Use a heavy rubber band to make sure they stay closed.

The 44 is smaller so the light is not as soft. The 44 works well when less light is needed and in smaller spaces.

The standard 44 can also take lamp that runs off a battery. Some people use the 44 with a battery to carry around and follow the talent. With the eX system, the 44 socket unit can be put on any of the rifa lights, so if you had an odd situation where you wanted to use a battery operated Rifa 55, you could. (If you use a battery light, you not only have to change the lamp/bulb, but you also need an adapter for the cord.

Even though expensive, the accessory virtually everyone needs (and wants if they don't have) is a grid.

I use the Rifa 55 and take it everywhere. The only thing is make sure you take your globes out for transportation. I made this mistakea few times being in a hurry. Once the globes cooled down I left the globe in the frame and got to the next shoot only to find a busted globe and here in Sydney they are $40 or so.

The Rifa 55 is great for small setup interviews but watch for mixed lighting such as a bright window throwing light on the talent as this will screw up the colour balance.
I always learn the hardway.

I've got a copy of the "How to light great interviews..." and it's a pretty straightforward set of instructions on how to light great interviews (especially if you enjoy the Hallmark channel or like watching images bathed in treacle brown candyfloss). My problem is that I live in UK (that's not the problem) so I can't buy the Lowel gear very easily. Does anyone know if there is a European equivalent set of gear for the pro and rifa etc - I am sure there is. Cheers, Jon

Hi Jonathan
I got my Lowell stuff from Prokit in West London.

The further away you place the light, the less soft it will be. With a tungsten light like the Tota, the closer you place the light, the hotter the person will be. I'd give the average person 3-4 minutes before they get uncomfortable and begin to sweat.

Buy a fluorescent setup. Seriously.

Buy this:
Lowel | Rifa-Lite EX55 Softbox Light Kit, LB40 Soft | LC-95LBZ (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/285875-REG/Lowel_LC_95LBZ_Rifa_Lite_EX55_Softbox_Light.html#includes)

And this:
Lowel | Rifa eXchange Fluorescent 3- Lamp Module | FLO-X3 | B&H (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/497651-REG/Lowel_FLO_X3_Rifa_eXchange_Fluorescent_3_.html)

And some compact fluorescent bulbs, and you'll be golden.

You can put this light 3 feet from your talent and they'll never feel any heat. folds up small, comes with a stand and diffuser, easy as can be.

I'm going to drag this post out of retirement to ask a question about Perrone's suggestion here:

Is there an advantage to using the Rifa (which looks pretty cool since it can do tungsten and flo...I like multi-tasking!) over a Cool Lights portable softbank like this:

CL-455P Cool Lights Portable 4 x 55 watt Softlight - Cool Lights USA (http://www.coollights.biz/cl455p-cool-lights-portable-watt-softlight-p-67.html)

The Cool Lights is a few bucks cheaper for non-dimming version and it's one piece to set up rather than a soft-box. Is there a practical limitation to using this instead of a Rifa-type softbox set up?

The cool-lights solution will be brighter. It will also be heavier and larger to carry. You will need full sized tubes for it (daylight and tungsten balanced).

The RIFA will be fold up to the size of a golf umbrella, it's much lighter, you can add one bulb or up to 6 is as far as I've gone. It can use CFL bulbs you get at Home Depot or Wal-Mart. It will not be as bright. It switches to tungsten with a single bulb.

The Cool Lights fixture has barn doors on it and can be controlled easier than any softbox.

They are both good solutions. I chose the Rifa over a fluo solution because of cost and size. Other people may have different priorities.

Thanks Perrone. I went with the Rifa since it's a tad more portable and available. Also like the fact that I can replace bulbs almost anywhere. Cool Lights showing their dimmable units as out of stock.

Did you order the Exchange head?