Well, I was just wondering, based on the images we've seen with the added iris ring, will current follow focus systems be able to take advantage of it?

I don't know the exact usefulness of it, I just thought that would be neat. Maybe someone could come up with a dual follow focus-like system?

Hi Jack, how's Vegas. It's been awhile.

So far the best follow focus solution I've seen for these particular lenses comes from my friend Karl Horn out in L.A. -- basically it's just a geared ring that fits snugly over the lens control ring. No reason why you can't have one for focus and one for iris. I hope this pic from NAB does justice to the concept. It's showing an XL1 but the same idea applies to these cams.

Thanks Chris, that's reassuring to know there's something out there already for this.

Vegas has been pretty darn hot lately actually, but I haven't had much time for the strip or anything, too busy with summer school at the moment. =)

Oops -- boy did I goof up big time.

Sorry guys, but the solution I talked about above will *not* work.

I was thinking about this and realized there's a physical limitation on the XH camcorders that will prevent the slip-on geared ring idea from working. If you look at the photos included below, it's pretty clear that the Instant AF sensor and the XLR audio input module over on the right side of the camera body are going to prevent you from slipping anything over those lens control rings. I don't know why I didn't think about this before responding to Jack's post.

If you can't see the attached images, just go to http://www.dvinfo.net/canonxh/articles/images2.php and look at the fourth photo down from the top and you'll see what I mean.

I suppose if you were really desperate, the instant af could be removed, and maybe left dangling?

I've seen a follow focus that uses a rubber wheel and no gear on the boards here somewhere, can't remember where, but I think they were developped by a board member.

These should work for this camera.

I forgot about that... It's called the indiFocus, click here (http://indifocus.com/index.html) for the site. I've heard it works fairly well except for fast racks, which can sometimes cause it to skip.

Can't all those things just then be mounted on the opposite side?

Matthew, thanks for that link, I remember seeing it before and thought I had it bookmarked, but couldn't find it recently. I've been looking for that thing.

Evan, the type of FF we're talking about that won't work at all with the XH is the kind that involves slipping a geared ring over the lens focus control ring... it's not a question of which side the FF control is on... but a matter of not being able to slip the geared ring over the lens. The photos above should show what I mean.

The Instant Focus module does look like it's just screwed onto the lens with two small screws. So maybe it will be possible to remove the entire module? If it is, hopefuly the IR emitter isn't hard wired to the rest of the camera and there is some standard connector there. A connector would be awesome because then we could remove the module and disconnect the connector.

The IR sensor is also blocked if you put a matte box on the lens so being able to remove and relocate the module would be even more important if you still wanted to use Instant Focus. I wonder if the exact position of the IR sensor is important to the Instant Focus system and if moving it around will mess up the algorithms.

Removing it might void your warranty though. Also, just about any lens attachment (not filters, but things like teleconverters, wide angle adapters etc.) will probably block that sensor too.

Removing it might void your warranty though. Also, just about any lens attachment (not filters, but things like teleconverters, wide angle adapters etc.) will probably block that sensor too.

No problem with the link Chris, I wouldn't be surprised if I originally got it from you on some other post somewhere. As for the instant AF, is this the only AF mechanism on this camera? It seems to be a poorly thought out device if it is, since these models are clearly intended for professionals, and Canon had to know many would be using support gear that would get in the way.

Has anyone successfully adapted or been able to use a follow focus on the A1/G1 with the focus sensor being in the way?

I'm finding that I can follow focus myself in most cases because of the distance readouts on the screen, something impossible with manual lenses. When an assistant is available, I can flip out the LCD screen into a position where he can read it, and he does the focus shift. The external sensor is irrelevant for that.

James,

I've got an arriflex follow focus over here (rented) and am using it with Nikon lenses on my M@ adapter.. however, you cannot use a follow focus on most video cams (HVX and DVX excluded) because the lenses are electronic, not manual. The lens marlks would be inconcistent because focus distances changes if you spin the focus wheel faster or slower.


Shame

On the Canon, as well as the Sony Z1, the lens will go back to the same place every time, regardless of how slow or fast your turn it--the same place being the number readout in the LCD and viewfinder.

If you, say start at 3 meters and shift focus to 5 meters, you can see those numbers in the display. Shift back to 3 and you are at your beginning focus, shift the other way and you are at your end focus; speed of the shift doesn't matter. What you say is true of the older cameras, but not these. That's why I said the assistant needs to be able to see the screen. It's the same as having numbers on the barrel, basically. A bit strange to get accustomed to if you come from a manual lens world as I do, but once you get it, it's cool. So you can use the follow focus mechanisms if you want. The Z1 is probably a bit better for that than the Canon because it has its LCD screen in a better place, easier for the assistant to see.

HEY!,

My bad... :P

(good to know)

Does the same go for zoom?

What I actually meant was how do you attach the gearing on the focus ring with the insta-focus sensor and XLR inputs covering one side of the ring?

On the Canon, as well as the Sony Z1, the lens will go back to the same place every time, regardless of how slow or fast your turn it--the same place being the number readout in the LCD and viewfinder.

If you, say start at 3 meters and shift focus to 5 meters, you can see those numbers in the display. Shift back to 3 and you are at your beginning focus, shift the other way and you are at your end focus; speed of the shift doesn't matter. What you say is true of the older cameras, but not these. That's why I said the assistant needs to be able to see the screen. It's the same as having numbers on the barrel, basically. A bit strange to get accustomed to if you come from a manual lens world as I do, but once you get it, it's cool. So you can use the follow focus mechanisms if you want. The Z1 is probably a bit better for that than the Canon because it has its LCD screen in a better place, easier for the assistant to see.

Great to know the A1 focus is spatially repeatable with or without follow focus. That kind of makes the whole "lack of mechanical focus ring" issue almost moot, it would seem.

My big question is, how usable are those distance readouts? Since focusing in HD is apparently so critical (a matter of inches?), are distance readouts in iterations of feet small enough to be useful? Does a readout of say "10 feet" actually reflect something like a 12-inch range, and if so, wouldn't that be enough to make the readout numbers too coarse for critical focus pulls?

Now that I think of it: does the A1 in fact have focus readouts which are finer than feet? "10.4 feet, 10.5 feet," etc...?

I have mine set on meters because I think that way from years of using a 2/3" lens whose meter readings were easier than feet. But yes, it gives you
.1 increments, like 3.1, 3.2 meters, etc.

OK, I just checked out feet, and it does the same thing...3.1, 3.2, 3.3 feet, etc. Much more accurate than the old manual ring. (Damn, I never thought I'd say any part of an electronic lens is any better than a "real" lens. Times change.)

This is excellent. So do you find those 1/10 of a foot increments fine enough for critical HD focusing?

It's just like with a manual lens. You zoom in, focus, zoom back and shoot. If you're shifting focus, you zoom in to your end point, set it and go back to your in point. Having the 1/10 of a foot numbers is a lot more accurate than with my old manual lens. That's only slightly more than a one inch increment. I don't think there's any setting you could come up with on a 1/3" chip camera that gives you a one-inch depth of field. So yeah, it's not gonna get any more accurate than that.

I'm not sure what people talk about when they talk about focus issues in HDV. It' just like film or regular video--either the shot is sharp or it's not. I haven't used the peaking or magnification for critical focus except one time just to see if it worked. I guess in really low light it might be handy, but I don't have any problem focusing, and so far everything's been sharp.

Thanks for the info Bill.

Does anyone want to take a hack at the original poster's question? Kinda got buried.

I did just realize a problem using an FF with the A1...

Due to the IR focusing mechanism, you cannot attach a focus gear around this camera...

Poop.

Yup, thats what my orignal question pointed out!!

Hey guys.

Finally got my Follow focus from Redrock, so I figured I would post a pic of my rig, and a glamour shot for fun.

Enjoy..

www.notomatofilms.com/rig1.jpg

www.notomatofilms.com/rig2.jpg

edit: If anyone can tell me why my img tag doesn't work, it would be appreciated.

Matt

does this help?

Looks hot!

Is that the Varizoom/SWIT 8" with Canon battery mount? How is it for focusing HDV?

That is indeed the SWIT. I find focusing quite easy. Haven't gotten a soft shot yet.

I have rig envy...

Well, clearly I am compensating :P

If anyone has any questions about setup stuff, let me know. I had to work a lot of the Canon's focus issues and make the RR hand-hold-able

Would that work with a Sony A1U?

I have seen people use Redrock adapters with A1U's and pretty much any camera really. Check out the Alternative Imaging Forums or www.redrockmicro.com to learn more about them. There is also the 35mm Brevis, P+S Technick, and a whole plethora of adapters

hey matthew,

the rig looks pretty sick. when i assemble my xha1/redrock setup, sadly enough, it looks just as unwieldly ;). do you shoulder mount the rig? if you do, i'm curious how you position the monitor/arm when you do. i'm currently using the marshall, but thinking about trading that in for the swit or ikan -- the marshall is just too heavy, and the noga arm is barely strong enough to keep it steady. also, how are you powering the swit?

thanks...

Matthew,

That is a sweet rig! Would love to see some footage in the near future. My A1 is on the way and hope to have a set up like yours some day.

Speaking of rigs, I have a 3ccd panny that I love dearly and am a part of a forum for guys like me who own nice little panasonics and like to add on to stock cameras. That forum has a nice little section that allows members to check out what others have done with their set-ups via pics like you have posted here.

Being new to the forum, I was wondering if there is a place on this site to view a collection other A1's. It is always nice to learn from others and their ideas.

Thanks

Jay

Hey Henry,

I lower the swit so it sits right next to the M2 and right infront of my face, then I put the camera body and rod underneath it on my shoulder and hand hold the grips. The new Follow Focus makes it a bit tougher, and it certainly is heavy. If I could just get a colour, HD viewfinder which turned the image right side up and put that to my eye like a broadcast camera, I'd be set.

Just curious, how heavy is that when not on the tripod? Looks like the hulk would have a hard time lifting that! :D lol

Well, I am about 6'4 and 270lbs so I can manage it fine, but it weighs about 30lbs or so (maybe 40lbs with EVERYTHING on) so it's like shooting with a super16mm or 35mm camera. Not light, but it's the price you pay.

I have even worked out a case so that I can load it up 90% assembled and be ready to shoot in less than a minute.

I'll post a pic of the case as soon as I get back my wide angle SLR lenses, cause my 50mm is just too damn long.
|
I can post some hand-holding pics if you want too, might help demonstrate the balance of the rig. Footage coming too, I swear.

Yeah more pics would be great.

been looking to by a monitor to mount to the top like yours. Which one do you have....how much if you dont mind me asking?

Nice rig.

I'm also jealous.

Added are pictures of my case. I can put the A1 in the case 90% built, so run and gun shooting is a lot easier. Granted, the case weights about 50lbs :P

The case is a pelican 1650, and the only things that don' fit are my cavision shoulder mount and some extra lenses (but my 50mm and my 28mm stay inside)


http://www.notomatofilms.com/case1.jpg

http://www.notomatofilms.com/case2.jpg


WES: It's a varizoom SWIT monitor. It connects via component cables and is about 90% as good as Marshalls monitor. I love it.

my img code still didn't work, so here they are attached!

The SWIT monitor is not HD though is it?

Hey Matt, I live in Toronto as well.

Your pimp'of'an'A1 should duel my bare bones A1. I warn you, mine has a lot of heart even though it lacks muscle.

It also knows how to self destruct in dire situations, but I sure as hell hope it doesn't come to that. For your sake and mine!

Ah Lloyd, I see you bought the "Predator" model then (What with the self destruct and all).

Blake, it is not HD, but no small monitor really is. it is 800X480 which, at 8inches is enough resolution to focus reliably.

Absolutely impressive!!

what sort of monitor is this you've mounted on the left side? i've read on the fxsupport.de blog ( http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/trurl_pagecontent?lp=de_en&trurl=http%3a%2f%2fwww.fxsupport.de%2f19.html ) about a 7" TFT with 800x600 being used as an external monitor and i am intrigued^^

Mathew,
I love what you did with the Case.. I posted about recommendations for cases between the 1600 and 1650 a couple weeks ago, and you just sold me on the 1650!!
Thanks, and like most people in here, I would love to see some footage from it when you have some..
Luke

Hi all,
I have been looking for a follow focus system for the XH A1 but needed it to be usable on the fixed lens since i don't have a 35mm lens adaptor. I do use a Raynox tele converter so i ended up buying a set of rails to help support that, meaning i had the rails to support a follow focus, but so far, i have only been able to find one follow focus system that works with a "friction" wheel. Not knowing just what the quality would be like of that one, i decided to give it a go to make my own. I started looking into small gear boxes but was put off by the ridiculous prices of these, i mean, over $400 Australian i think is a joke. Anyway, in the end i just bought some gears, some bearings & some stainless steel rod to suit on the internet. The whole thing pretty much, is made out of aluminium, & i made it to suit the set up i have rather than trying to make it adjustable since i figured it was only for my set up & wouldn't need to be changed. The gear that drives the focus ring on the lens is a nylon gear that comes from a "hobby set" of gears, it just worked out that it meshed with the ribbing on the lens ring perfectly. I still need to do some minor tweaking with the nylon gear as it is not perfectly centered, but that won't be too difficult to sort out. I may even make up a whole new gear from aluminium, but first i'll see how it goes with this one.
I haven't played around with it too much yet, but from my initial tests, it works very well, & focusing is much easier.

Bryce

That Raynox is a beast! - I'd love to get one

I use the indifocus for the Lex and it has the friction wheel attachment, I've found it a bit 'jumpy' on occasion - your's looks pretty good