About to purchase my zoom lens,
1. 100-300 f4 52.2oz
2. 120-300 f2.8 91.7oz
can anyone persuade me into one or the other. Shooting various kinds of wildlife using a
JVC hd-100. thanks for the help

Hi
I can only say that I use the Sigma 120-300mm 2,8 and it works great. The lens make very crispy pictures with the iris at 5,6 - 11 where it is sharpest. Sometimes I use a teleconverter and the 2,8 makes it possible to work with it. I have an Sony EX3.
..............bo

Jason,
never used any of the lenses you got here, but I very happy with the Sigma 70-200mm f2.8 and Sigma 150mm macro 1:1 f2.8
I use them with a Canon XLH1.

My opinion is that Sigma lenses are as good as e.g. Canon originals when used on camcorders IMHO!
My advise will be to try them both out if possible. And I think that fast lenses are better, so I think the the 120-300 will be my bet! In wildlife filming you often want to record in dawn and dusk where the light can be poor.
I also heard that these zoom lenses can be a little soft at the 300mm end!

I would also recommend you to get some rain-protection for your lens. The Sigma's is not waterproof like the Canon L-lenses.

Good luck, keep us informed about how it goes!

Thanks guys. Per, you mention a rain cover for the lens, are Sigma lenses less durable in outdoor environments, maybe I would be better off with a Nikon instead? I have read that you use a Ronsrail, are there any options out there for me for lens support, I was looking at Cavision rod system, but now I dont think its what I am looking for. Any advice with lens support would be very helpful.

Well, it's not that bad! Only a few times in real severe weather (e.g. blizzard or heavy rain) I've discovered some light dense inside the front glass of the Sigma lens. And this only happend after several hours in this situation. Most people don't even go out in weather like that, but stupid me did!

Unfortunately Ronsrail is out of business. I'm not aware of any manufacture doing this kind of rails today.

As a note, I'm not using the rail, on my shortest 35mm lenses! The Sigma 70/200mm f2.8, Sigma 150mm macro f2.8 and the Canon 300mm f4.0
This lenses are as light as the original 20x and I have few problems handling them without the rail. In this way I can also exchange them rapidly, which I can't do if I use the rail.

The only situation I use the rail is on lenses, like Sigma/Canon 300mm f2.8 and beyond! This lenses are too heavy to attach to the camcorder without any support for it's own leg!

Just to give you a sample. This short video of the Golden Eagle is shoot with a Sigma 70-200mm f2.8. Mostly at the telephotoend. I didn't use any rail support. Shoot from a hide at a distance of approx. 20-25 meter

http://www.video-film.no/snutter/kongeorn.html

or if you prefer Vimeo:
http://www.vimeo.com/1011529

The Sigma 100-300 f/4 gets a really good user report here.
FM Reviews - APO 100-300mm f4 EX IF HSM (http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=103&sort=7&cat=37&page=3)

Hi

My solution to attach a Canon XL2/Tamron 300 mm on a Vinten tripod.
The bevel gear box is used to focus the lens, the end ratio is 3 to 1 but in changing the little gear i can obtain 6 to 1. I have to do a knob to turn the axis and a support. The rail come directly in place on the fluid head without adapter (it's a dove tail machined for the Vinten).
I have a set of holds to compensate the heigt difference between the Cam and the lens.
All the parts have to be anodized.
The ring gear is a 120 tooth M1 and the little is a 40 M1 i have machined a 30 and a 20 M1 to obtain ratio 3/1, 4/1, 6/1. The total weight is 1200 g.

Best support solution is just to get a flat piece of aluminium, get an engineer to bore a few holes in it and there you go.
Both those Sigmas are known to be good ones, just a question of how much you need the 2.8 and how well you can cope with the extra weight.
Personally on a small chip camera I'd be wary of going below 5.6 (8 at the outside) as you'll risk getting diffraction problems.
Steve

Thanks for your suggestions. I have been searching around, is anyone familiar with ReallyRightStuff, in particular this camera/lens mount Really Right Stuff - Kennan Ward Super-Tele Package - Kit Configuration Page (http://reallyrightstuff.com/rrs/Customkititems.asp?kc=KennanWardPkg&eq=)

Hi Jason,

Have a look at this link Wildeye Filmmaking Chat :: View topic - Ronsrail System (http://www.wildeyechat.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=128)
Its not about the ronsrail it deals more with the Kennan Ward

Regards

Mick

As Mick pointed you in the direction of Wildeye and the RRS Long Lens Rail!

All I can say at this moment is that it looks like an excellent alternative, if not better, than the Ronsrail I seeked! RRS have been absolutely brilliant and I hope to have mine shortly!

I have used their photographic plates and brackets for my stills in the past and have found them second to none!

As soon as it's here I'll post letting everyone know!

Just a quick comment regards to the Sigma Lenses; 1) the 100-300mm f/4 can front focus so check if you purchase that one! 2) the 120-300mm f2.8 is a cracker and I regret selling mine as it was a good copy (I'll probably end up getting another!).

Nice to see you here Paul and yes, as Paul has mentioned, the RRS package is the way to go for us wildlife shooters. It is known to be much better than the Ronsrail....a little known fact as the RRS tele package itself is not that well-known.

I have yet to order mine as Im waiting for my long lens....still deciding between a Sigma 120-300, Sigma 300-800 or WAIT for a Canon FD 150-600...:(

Cheers

WeeHan

Hi

The XL2 mounted and unmounted on the Vinten Vision 11. The dove tail fit directly on the head, the distance between the two support can be adjusted in lenght and lateral offset for the height i use holds.

these are nicely made rails but if you use more than one type of lens they arre not very adjustable from the appearances of the picture!!

The ron's rail is totally adjustable as well as the one I use.

To me it is important to set up quickly and to be able to adjust to a different lens readily.

If you only use one lens then this one would be fine!!

http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/under-water-over-land/137502-portable-wind-blocker.html

At the bottom of these posts is a picture of the rail I use

Hi Dale

The slot is 200 mm long and the other is 50 mm long. I can adapt many lens, zoom and prime, i have a doubt for the 600 mm Canon prime lens, but you can do a bigger plate, for the height i use holds, that's more rigid than sliding rail. The two black parts are "quick clamps"

Regards

Gilles

My rail came from RRS (Really Right Stuff) just before Christmas and I have to say I am really impressed! It is well made and totally solid! The Kennan Ward Package comes complete with everything except the plate to attach to your camera and an additional Platform (both are available from RRS). The additional platform is required to attach the Camera Bar to your Fluid Head and allow adjustment to balance the whole rig!.

Highly recommended and an excellent alternative to the Ronsrails - I've had my Sony EX-3 mounted with a Nikon 600mm f/4 on this rig - awesome!

Hi Paul, glad to hear someone using this rail system, how quickly can you change lenses on this system, is it easy, or does it take a bit of time? How heavy is it?

Hi Paul,

That is fantastic to hear! I forgot to mention that you needed an additional plate and a clamp. The latter will be on your tripods quick release plate. The lever clamps have been the craze and are fast to work with.

Im looking to receiving mine soon!

Cheers

Weehan

The Arca-Swiss Style QR (Quick-Release) suits me to a tee as I use this system for my stills work. So all my lens already have Acra-Swiss Style Lens Feet attached (You must have these Lens Feet attached to your lenses in order to use this set-up). Acra-Swiss Style Nikon Lens Plate ( http://reallyrightstuff.com/rrs/Itemdesc.asp?ic=LCF%2D13&eq=LCF%2D13%2D001&Tp=).

It is rock solid, easy to use and doesn't weigh a ton. It'll easily support a Sony EX-3 and a Nikon 600mm f/4 along with all those extras such as microphone, external hard drive and so forth. It'll certainly take more weight than that.

I've linked to all the main components below;

Kennan Ward Super-Tele Package (http://reallyrightstuff.com/rrs/Customkititems.asp?kc=KennanWardPkg&eq=) weights 2.7lb/1156g.

Fore/Aft Plate for Canon Camcorder (http://reallyrightstuff.com/rrs/Itemdesc.asp?ic=BXL2&eq=&Tp=)

Fore/Aft Plate for other Camcorders (http://reallyrightstuff.com/rrs/items.asp?Cc=BodyCamAll&iTpStatus=1&Tp=&Bc=)

80mm Clamp with Dual Mount (Platform) ( http://reallyrightstuff.com/rrs/Itemdesc.asp?ic=B2%2DPro%2FL&eq=&Tp=)

Forgot to say in my previous reply that this system is quite quick to set-up once you get used to it. Changing the lens on my EX-3 is as easy as changing lenses on my still bodies. The QR works really well and is a efficient as it is easy. However care must been take to ensure that the lens is perfectly level to the camera i.e. not too high or too low. It doesn't take long to set-up with practice. If you only use one lens then once you've set it up you never need to change it making it very fast.

Jason - I'm using the EX3 with the Sigma 50-500 lens and a Cine Rail support system. The 50-500 lens may be overkill, but its nice to be able to pull back to 50 to find the subject and then zoom in. I try and stay in the mid ranges, but its good to have the 500 just in case I see Bigfoot on a far ridge (frankly, I think the images at 500 are quite sharp, that's assuming there's no breeze to shake the unit and no atmospheric noise). With the setup I got it is quite easy to switch lenses. (Although the camera body screws to the rail system, I am currently using clamps to secure the lens; screws would of course be better.) You can see pictures of the setup at:

Review of Sony PMW-EX3 for Wildlife and Nature Video (http://www.pronghornproductions.com/Review%20Sony%20PMW-EX3.html)

Good luck.

I've thought about that lens a few times (was never sure if it had a manual aperture ring or not obviously it has! Got me thinking again now! I’ve been trying to track down an old s/h Nikon 200-400mm manual lens!

I’d suggest getting rid of those clamps in favour a set of Arca-Swiss Style Plates and Platforms from Kirk, Really Right Stuff, Wimberley or Acra-Swiss themselves!!! There are numerous other manufacturers that offer good and cost effective QR plates and platforms that would offer you better rigid-ability and stability than those clamps!!!

I myself am using a rail system with a long lens support to hold my telephotos.The main issue is the setup is extremely front heavy and on a Vinten Vision 6, the balance is way off (the amount of strain on the tilt lock is enormous when you want to lock the setup) and the RRS Tele package solves that issue by allowing your camera body to be moved way back.

Thus even if a rail system is used and the whole system is supported nicely, it will most probably be not balanced well at all.

Cheers

Han

The RRS balances the whole rig out beautifully! No more fighting enabling perfectly smooth panning! Glad you finally got yours Han!!!

thanks for posting all the components, like the idea of the nikon lens plates. cheers Jason

Good evening,


Wish I had seen this tread before i acquired my rail, would have saved me a fair amount of dollars!!

I like the one I had made, but it is fairly heavy even on on my vinten vision 6.

Would be nice to have a light one for back packing about. Something made out of composites that was rigid but deadly light!!!

my dream team: miller solo legs, carbon fiber/composite rail, canon 28-300 zoom l series. 500 canon. Enough strength to spend the day out with it all!!!

Often think about getting a small donkey, they imprint well and will follow you around like a puppy!! HUM!!

Truelens also do support systems in the UK and a lens support which isn't mentioned on the site

True Lens Services (http://www.truelens.co.uk/accessories.html)

About to purchase my zoom lens,
1. 100-300 f4 52.2oz
2. 120-300 f2.8 91.7oz
can anyone persuade me into one or the other. Shooting various kinds of wildlife using a
JVC hd-100. thanks for the help

Both are superb, especially for the price. The Nikkor 200-400mm f/4 (both MF & AF models) are better, but at lofty prices. The Canon 100-400mm IS is a decent lens, but it provides a darker viewfinder due to the slower maximum aperture at the long end.

Fast zooms in the 100-300mm range are rare beasts and most tend to be a slow f/5.6 at the long end.

The Sigma 100-300mm f/4 is one of the best fast zoom lenses you can buy in this range, with biting sharpness (for a zoom) and almost matching some fixed lenses.

And don't forget the Nikon 50-300 f4.5ED MF lens, also an excellent performer and decent zoom range. Only problem, and same goes for the old 200-400 f4, is no internal focus so a fairly heavy hand needed to pull focus which'll wobble the image.
Steve

Yes, almost forgot the golden 50-300mm ED classic (make sure it is the ED version).

I'm not sure if it is possible to zoom without inducing shake/wobble using most manual zooms without an extrenal servo. Better to just use the zoom for obtaining a different frame position from a fixed point.

I'm not sure if it is possible to zoom without inducing shake/wobble using most manual zooms without an extrenal servo. Better to just use the zoom for obtaining a different frame position from a fixed point.

No, was talking about focussing not zooming. The 50-300 and 200-400 MF have no IF. The other effect of this is that when you put a hood on the lens the weight of it exerts downward pressure and so makes the focussing even heavier. I had a Leica 105-280 that had the same problem, otherwise a gorgeous lens.
Steve