Hey guys, the new Casio high speed cam (Exilim) shoots very good HD video at both 720 and 1080 resolutions. Check out some raw video here (you'll need to be a Vimeo member for full HD video downloads- FREE)
It's encoded internally using X.264 which means native video editing on Macs & PC's- unlike AVCHD (yuck!)

SteveNunez's videos on Vimeo (http://www.vimeo.com/user768187/videos)
(Click the Video Title text- don't bother with the small inline clips.)

What about manual control in videos or is it the same issues as D90, 5D Mk II?

You can control many aspects of video shooting manually, such as; focus, frame rate (up to a point) EV (+/- 2.0 in 1/3 steps) aperture & shutter speed (as well as WB etc.) So there are many variables you can control for movie shooting. You can set the camera to Auto, Shutter Priority, Aperture Priority, Best Shot (video optimized presets) and full Manual!
There is a histogram to monitor highlights/shadows and exposure as well as AF/EL lock- so the cam is quite good for video.
It also has a "Mic In" -it's quite a little gem and produces some of the best 720p & 1080i60 video (which can easily be de-interlaced for beautiful 1080P30 video) I've seen in a SD card camera.
Check out the Vimeo videos and download the full res 720p clips and judge for yourself the quality it produces. For $999 I find it more useable than the current crop of AVCHD cameras.
The Casio shoots with a X.264 codec meaning small file sizes yet many NLE's CAN edit the footage without transcoding- unlike AVCHD!
(Data Rate is 8.8mbps for 720 and 14+ mbps for 1080)

You can control many aspects of video shooting manually, such as; focus, frame rate (up to a point) EV (+/- 2.0 in 1/3 steps) aperture & shutter speed (as well as WB etc.) So there are many variables you can control for movie shooting. You can set the camera to Auto, Shutter Priority, Aperture Priority, Best Shot (video optimized presets) and full Manual!
There is a histogram to monitor highlights/shadows and exposure as well as AF/EL lock- so the cam is quite good for video.

Interesting. The clips do look good. Have you tested the mic in?

So, from what you are saying you set a 1/30th or 1/60 shutter speed, check exposure, set iris manual, lock focus and roll clip and it will stay at that, period? Is the histogram RGB or individual channels?

This does appear to give it a major advantage over D90 and MK II. I wonder if Casio will add 24p mode.

You have "some" control over the HD shooting modes but not full manual.
Since there is a "Live" LCD, adjustments are instantly viewable while making them. You can use the EV +/- to adjust for highlight clipping or shadow crushing- you can also control ISO settings.

Overall it has been producing some of the best video I've seen anywhere within it's class- matter of fact I can't think of a single still camera that shoots better video aside from the new DSLR's! I also prefer it's video to those of the AVCHD camcorders. The clips are not AVCHD they are X.264 encoded which many NLE's can handle with similar file size and data rates to AVCHD (why bother?)

I wish they'd allow full manual control but then again I can't think of a video look/exposure I can't achieve with the settings allowed at this time. I bought this camera specifically for the video mode and it's been fantastic!
Highly recommended but download the user's manual and make sure it's for you!

Really cool Steve. Does it look good on a big screen tv?

Paul, I have yet to connect it via HDMI to my big screen- I'll post it when I do~ thanks!

I am very impressed with the Video quality of this camera. I have been doing some tests with it. Here is a link to some video I shot. Auto focus works in HD video mode.
Casio F1 on Vimeo (http://www.vimeo.com/2241876) Casio F1 on Vimeo

Thanks for the input, Daniel. A question for both you and Steve: What about low light performance? Everything I've read about or seen from this camera indicates it has some serious problems with low light performance, not just in video mode but in still mode as well. I've seen some stills that should have been handled without difficulty that were covered over with noise (surprisingly so). What is your experience?

I had a problem in low light with the noise produced by this camera until I learned how to control it. The only way I have been able to remove the noise in low light is to shoot in BS mode. Every other setting produces lots of noise in the shadows. When I set the camera to BS (Best Shot Mode) and choose Portrait, I get very little noise and proper white balance. I almost gave up on this camera until I learned this. Now my video has no noticeable noise in it. Here are some low light tests. Download the videos.

Noise test Casio F1 on Vimeo (http://www.vimeo.com/2266550)
Low Light Noise Test on Vimeo (http://www.vimeo.com/2266599)

Very interesting, Daniel. Thanks for the clips. They do look quite a bit better than previous low light clips from this camera. So the trick is to use BS + Portrait.

I wonder who at Casio decided to use the designation "BS" Mode. (!)

BS=Best Shot

So .... does "some" control mean you can, or can't, fix the shutter at (say) 1/60 in video mode?
For me at least, that's probably the key determinant of whether a camera like this is a contender.

Yes, you can set the shutter speed and shoot video. I do not like the way the video looks. There is too much noise for my tastes. I believe that Casio optimized the picture quality for video in BS mode only. The noise is reduced and the quality is better in BS (Best Shot )mode.
I will upload two videos later today. The first is video shot in Shutter priority 1/60. The second will be the same shot taken in BS mode.

Here are two shots:
1/60 Shutter Casio F1 on Vimeo (http://www.vimeo.com/2277233) 1/60 shutter
BS mode on Vimeo (http://www.vimeo.com/2277263) BS mode

Daniel,

Amazing, I just tested this on my EX-F1 and it works! Quick question, did you manage to get the camera to set a shutter speed of something other than 1/60th in BS mode?

Dan

I can not change the shutter speed in BS mode. When I choose BS mode (portrait) it seems to adjust the white balance correctly. Any other choice in BS mode just shifts the white balance.

The EX F1 produces fantastic video and has to be the sleeper hit of 2008!
With DT's revelation of video optimized "BS" modes- it's producing footage that rivals the HF10/100's!
(I've owned both!)

(It also has a huge sensor which is no doubt helping it's video quality)

I can not change the shutter speed in BS mode. When I choose BS mode (portrait) it seems to adjust the white balance correctly. Any other choice in BS mode just shifts the white balance.

Portrait opens iris for minimum DOF which means shutter-speed does wherever it needs to go.

To limit noise you need to limit the ISO -- which you can't do in Movie mode. But, certain BS modes gain may be limit it. I always try Night or Night Portrait mode which may limit gain to about 1/3 to 1/2 of its maximum (+18dB). Which would be 800 or 500 (of 1600) -- which is too high. We need to limit gain to 400. Night drops shutter-speed, hopefully only to 1/30th which gains a stop of light.

However, here's the deal -- the camera has good quality at 200ISO -- perhaps to 400ISO. This is about a typical HD camcorder with 0dB gain. While you can add +9dB with a camcorder, who can't with the EX1. So, you must add light. Bottom-line, you may be able to limit the ISO using BS, you can't make the camera more sensitive. You'll need to add light.

How about posting some shots indoors with about 200W of light. Try Night or Night Portrait, please.

STEVE -- how about using ExposureRoom. ER accepts 720p30 and shows 720p30 so it does not drop frames as does Vimeo which only accepts 720p24.

PS: both 720p and 1080i edit great in Avid Media Composer. And, in FCP.

STEVE -- how about using ExposureRoom. ER accepts 720p30 and shows 720p30 so it does not drop frames as does Vimeo which only accepts 720p24.

Steve, I thought they both converted to 15 fps like Youtube, is this not correct? I thought the whole argument for 30p was that is went into 15fps easily and gave smoother motion.

Dan

Steve, I thought they both converted to 15 fps like Youtube, is this not correct? I thought the whole argument for 30p was that is went into 15fps easily and gave smoother motion.

Dan

Vimeo HD = 720p24

ER = 720p30

Thanks Steve,

That's genuinely useful. I wonder what both of these do to 25p PAL land output?

Dan

Thanks Steve,

That's genuinely useful. I wonder what both of these do to 25p PAL land output?

Dan

Video still drops frames while ER works at 720p25.

The EX-F1 files can also be edited in Premiere Pro CS3.

Yes, you can set the shutter speed and shoot video. I do not like the way the video looks. There is too much noise for my tastes.

As I posted at your Vimeo site, 1/60th is correct. If there is too much noise it's because the gain has increased.

According to the manual, when shooting movies, ISO goes to AUTO. In fact the manual claims when shooting SD/HD movies, the camera goes to full AUTO for shutter and iris. So I'm not sure why you feel you actually SET shutter and iris. These settings you set may ONLY apply to STILLS you take.

You want a BS mode that forces 1/60th and ISO 200. And, does nothing else.

What settings does the manual say are forced when you go to PORTRAIT?

How about FIREWORKS?

On the Sony SR12, this setting limits gain to +0dB and lowers the shutter-speed to 1/50th or 1/60th second.

I think you are right that the camera goes to full auto. I can change shutter speed and f stop and the camera takes the change but then I don't believe it uses these settings when shooting a movie. It would be nice to have Casio explain just what is taking place when you choose different settings.
I tested some different settings over the weekend and in movie mode I can adjust the EV value and white balance. The default EV value of 0.0 puts the whites over 110. I can lower this to -0.7EV and this lowers the highlights to just below 100. I still have details in the whites even at 110. Which is great. When shooting a movie the F1 always goes to auto focus which I can then lock. I wish I could zoom in, focus and then reframe the shot but when you use the zoom it reverts back to auto focus ever time. Maybe Casio could change this.
I just shot a school play and the camera did great. I shoot over 1 hr HD 1280 x 720 with no problems. This produces a 4 gig file. I have a 16 gig sdhc card so I can get over 4 hrs of HD with out changing the card. I have had no over heating problems yet. In SD, I can get over 3 hrs per 4 gigs. For multi camera shoots, I could set the F1 on a tripod, frame the shot, lock focus and capture. I have had no problems editing these files in Sony Vegas. At $900.00 this is one sweet baby.
The F1 is definitely not the one camera that fits all situations. But I am getting some very nice shots with it. Think of the F1 as just another tool to produce good video.

It would be nice to have Casio explain just what is taking place when you choose different settings.

I tested some different settings over the weekend and in movie mode I can adjust the EV value and white balance. The default EV value of 0.0 puts the whites over 110. I can lower this to -0.7EV and this lowers the highlights to just below 100. I still have details in the whites even at 110. Which is great.

When shooting a movie the F1 always goes to auto focus which I can then lock.

At $900.00 this is one sweet baby.

Great that you are following this thread. The manual is USELESS and not even on paper!

1) So we can set EV to prevent highlight blow-out. What about using EV=0 and adjusting Dynamic Range down by 1 or 2. In general it's OK to have signal levels go to 105 as long as pure black goes to zero. That would allow EV to adjust Exposure. (I can believe there is no exposure dial or no ability to set the lens ring. Casio seems assume AE will be perfect.

2) Great the WB is settable.

3) So AUTO means: AE (which means it controls shutter and iris), AF, and gain (ISO). But, one can lock both AE and AF during each shot which is very good.

4) One can frame a subject and press Still Shutter half way to get AF and AE and then press AE/AF LOCK.

But, can one switch to MF and not have the camera switch back to AF when you start recording a movie?

If the camera will stay in MF, then one simply zooms in fully and uses the lens ring to adjust focus. Then zoom-back.

5) There's two ways AE can function. It can try to keep the shutter at 1/60th and use the iris for exposure control. (This is good.) Or, it can try to keep the iris at about f/4 and use the shutter for exposure control. This is very bad for 720p30 because in bright light the shutter may move up to 1/250th which causes judder. The shutter needs to stay at 1/60th. With the huge shutter range I suspect it uses shutter for exposure control.

You can check this by shooting traffic in an intersection on a bright day using 720p30. If you see double images on fast moving cars when you play it back on your HDTV, then the shutter is too fast.

6) Supposedly you can use some of the BS modes with Movie. Can you report the internal settings for: Portrait, Night Portrait, Night, Fireworks, and Twilight.

Although Portrait may limit ISO as folks report, I'll bet it raises shutter speed very high.

Night Portrait, Night, Fireworks, and Twilight should all limit gain (ISO) to keep noise low. But, some of them may also control shutter speed. Some may force the speed to 1/30th. (OK for 720p30, but bad for 1080i.) Some may allow it to go much lower. (Bad for both.) But, some may lock at 1/60th.

My bet would be on Fireworks. However, it may set WB to something so you need to check what it is. If daylight, that's OK.

Could you post the list of Movie BS modes.

7) Lastly, how bad do you find the narrow field of view when you switch to Movie mode? Supposedly, Wide becomes 45mm which is not wide at all. On a 35mm camera it is Normal.

Sorry for all the questions.

PS: Where did you get it for $900?????????

So I just checked and the sensor is 7.18mm by 5.32mm (maybe not all used for video though). Is that big enough to .. um... be excited about? Micro 4/3 will be MUCH bigger, right?

It maybe worth waiting for the Panasonic G1HD camera to come out, it apparently will shoot HD (don't know what format) but because it is a 4/3 camera the lenses are very compact

Here are a few samples, for anyone interested... (with a few small tweaks in After effects)

http://65.38.105.34/test/surf.mov (720p - 50mb)
http://65.38.105.34/test/gull.mov (720p - 26mb)
http://65.38.105.34/test/casio.mov (1080p - 8mb, using frame burst)

For the price, I love this little camera. It is small enough to take pretty much anywhere and so easy to work with that you know 99% of your shots are gonna be usable. Colours are great and can even get a bit of shallow DOF in the right circumstances. The timelapse feature is pretty handy too.

So I just checked and the sensor is 7.18mm by 5.32mm (maybe not all used for video though). Is that big enough to .. um... be excited about? Micro 4/3 will be MUCH bigger, right?

I can never remember. Is 1/1.8 really saying about 1/2-inch? Is the 1.8 rounded up to 2? I really wish they would use inches or cm. Or, decimal inches. Like 0.5-inches.

Yes, a smaller area seems to be used for video, but no one seems to know how much smaller. And, no one has published the resolution.

PS: None of the reviews seem to have been done by videographers!

So one can't focus or zoom while shooting. Big deal. Anyone who shot with a 16mm Bolex with 3 primes knows these aren't real limitations.

1) So we can set EV to prevent highlight blow-out. What about using EV=0 and adjusting Dynamic Range down by 1 or 2. In general it's OK to have signal levels go to 105 as long as pure black goes to zero. That would allow EV to adjust Exposure. (I can believe there is no exposure dial or no ability to set the lens ring. Casio seems assume AE will be perfect.
Answer:
I shot a play over the weekend and in many of the scenes the highlights were well above 100. I shot in Movie mode Portrait, EV0 ( the default when the camera turns on ). When looking at the video in Sony Vegas my highlights were way above 100. I applied the levels filter and brought the highlights down to 100 then used DVDPrepInstaller to render the shot Film 24p widescreen. I am very satisfied with the finished look.

4) One can frame a subject and press Still Shutter half way to get AF and AE and then press AE/AF LOCK.
Answer:Auto focus only:
Different things happen depending on HD or SD mode. In HD mode 1080 x 720, you frame the shot wide and the let the camera auto focus, then lock the focus. This is because in HD the shot zooms in slightly when you start recording. Also I have found that auto focus works best most of the time. In SD mode, you frame the shot, let auto focus do its thing and then lock the focus. The framing in SD does not zoom in after you start recording.
The camera is setting the AE, I think by adjusting the shutter.

4a)But, can one switch to MF and not have the camera switch back to AF when you start recording a movie?
Answer:
No, manual focus does not work in recording movies or I havn’t learned how to make it work yet. You think that it does because the camera accepts the input but then when you start recording it switches back to auto focus.

4b)If the camera will stay in MF, then one simply zooms in fully and uses the lens ring to adjust focus. Then zoom-back.
Answer:
I have not been able to get the camera to stay in manual focus. I believe Casio needs a firmware upgrade to do this.

6) Supposedly you can use some of the BS modes with Movie. Can you report the internal settings for: Portrait, Night Portrait, Night, Fireworks, and Twilight.
Answer:
There are about 15 BS modes. Some work with photos and others work with Movies. When you change from Portrait to Night Portrait, the settings on the side of the Lcd change. (iso, WB, ect.) This appears to set the camera to different settings. You can even manually change Iso to 400. It accepts this change but when I start recording, I believe the camera does not use these.

7) Lastly, how bad do you find the narrow field of view when you switch to Movie mode? Supposedly, Wide becomes 45mm which is not wide at all. On a 35mm camera it is Normal.
Answer:
I not sure. Do you mean what is still in frame or the dept of focus? I will test this.

PS: Where did you get it for $900?????????
Answer:
Just a ball park figure, not accurate

I copied this from Casio website. This may be what is happening in the different movie mode settings.

Best Shot Mode

BEST SHOT- EXILIM (http://www.exilim.de/euro/bestshot/)
Tipps & Tricks- EXILIM (http://www.exilim.de/euro/tips/)

1. Fireworks
Select the function, your camera will automatically set up a daylight white balance with the focus on infinity.*
2. Portrait
The natural tone of the complexion is emphasized advantageously to achieve the best possible, flattering result.

3. Scenery
When taking photographs of scenery, the same level of sharpness, stronger contrast and high colour saturation is important. "Scenery" automatically sets the camera to these requirements.*

4. Night Scene
The Movie BEST SHOT-motif program "Night Scene" sets a high level of sensitivity - letting you take photographs with a low level of background brightness.* With this setting, you must hold the camera still, since especially in night photography, slight movements can cause blurred pictures.*
ect...
This seems to be what is happening in the camera when I change modes

The descriptions are zen.

The WINTER FESTIVAL setting seems to prevent blur and limits gain.

According to the manual after you choose a BS mode you can see what settings it has made. That's the way you can see what it really does.

Sort of the reverse of making your own BS.

Steve Mullen do you live in the Atlanta area? If so, email me at Daniel_Thornton@douglas.k12.ga.us and I will loan you the camera for a few days to try out.

Steve Mullen do you live in the Atlanta area? If so, email me at Daniel_Thornton@douglas.k12.ga.us and I will loan you the camera for a few days to try out.

Alas, I live in Las Vegas. But, that's a very kind offer. Thank you!

There is a company that allows unlimited time before a return. You pay $200 more, however. I think I may go this way.

I wonder if anyone is buying the F1? However, if you look at the "reviews" by buyers, they are really positive. Reviews by reviewers are mixed.

Are you REALLY REALLY happy with your F1?

PS: No way can I afford a Canon. Plus, I want 720p. And, the Nikon seems to be very complex and offer poor video.

The more I use this camera and learn how to adjust the settings, the more I love it. But when I first got the F1, I thought I had wasted my money. This is because I shoot most of my video inside under lights. From the first I could get excellent video outdoors. I could set the camera in just about any setting and get great video. There was plenty of light so the video look better than any camera three times its price. But when I shot indoors the video was full of noise in the shadows. This was unacceptable for my purposes. After about a week of adjusting the camera trying to eliminate the noise I was ready to sell it. Then I set the camera in Movie Mode Portrait and the noise disappeared. I was astonished, great looking video. I believe that Casio processes the video differently in this setting. The blacks are crushed so the noise doesn’t show as much.
Just yesterday after reading some posts about the auto focus, I decided to spend some time adjusting and locking the focus and I learned something new. When pushing the photo button half way to focus in some of the settings, you get an orange read out. This means that the camera didn’t adjust correctly. When pushing the photo button half way you need to get a white settings read out and the green light stops blinking. This is the camera adjusting exposure and auto focus correctly. Then lock focus and the picture looks great. It would be helpful if Casio would explain this. Now I will use the photo button to focus and watch the colors that are displayed. Also I started using the histogram. I can now tell if I need to lower the EV value.
A big drawback in this camera is no monitoring of the audio signal. I can record audio but I have not found a way to monitor the signal to tell what the camera is hearing.
At first, I didn’t like the F1 but now I would not sell it. I am also looking at the Samsung SC HMX20c as another tool. It contains the same chip as the F1 at only $630.00. Its video picture quality is supposed to be better than the Canon HV30.

Daniel, did you buy the F1 with a particular application in mind?

PS: Thanks for your posts.

Steve.... I have both the d90 and ex-f1... unless you are desperate for the "film look" then go with the casio.

The nikon is just crap in my opinion... people who own it rock on about how the footage looks, but I don't think it comes close to decent 720p except for a few tripoded shots here and there. The jello effect is unusable and that is only the first of many problems.

The Casio, you can pretty much gauruntee 720p quality in most conditions. It is alot more video looking though, but at $1000 or so, it's quality is very, very good... not too far off my hvx200, especially in good light.

Robert...I am doing Historical family interviews plus whatever comes along. This is my first venture with a HD camera. I would love to get a Sony PMW-EX1 but I can't afford it at this time. My goal has been to have better picture quality. My normal video camera is the Panasonic DVX 100a.

Then I set the camera in Movie Mode Portrait and the noise disappeared. I was astonished, great looking video. I believe that Casio processes the video differently in this setting. The blacks are crushed so the noise doesn’t show as much.

When pushing the photo button half way you need to get a white settings read out and the green light stops blinking. This is the camera adjusting exposure and auto focus correctly. Then lock focus and the picture looks great.

It would be helpful if Casio would explain this.



I suspect that in Portrait Mode gain is limited which keeps noise low. I assume EITHER the shutter is pushed higher forcing the iris full open to minimize DOF -- or -- the iris is opened fully to minimize DOF which forces the shutter-higher. In any case, motion blur is prevented. Saturation is increased and DYNAMIC RANGE set at -2 which crushes black and prevents over-exposure.

Is WB forced to Indoors in Portrait Mode?

PS: I'll bet if you menu switch to MF -- when you press the shutter half-way it will set only exposre and not alter the focus you manually set. Then, when you press Lock AE/AF, you'll lock the current MF.

Remember the 5 steps: fast zoom-in on subject; MF; press shutter to get exposure of subject; press Lock AE/AF; zoom-back to frame; shoot.

Ok, I think I found out how to zoom in, set focus, and then zoom out to frame the shot and the focus does not change. Set the camera in Movie mode- Night shot, this lets you use the focus button on the side of the camera to change the different ways of focus. When you push this side focus button, it changes from AF, Macro, infinity, and Manual (p43 in the owners manual). Two ways to set the focus, Use AF then press the Shutter button half way to gain focus then push the side focus button to MF so the camera stays in MF then reframe or just leave the camera in MF and adjust the focus , then reframe the shot. The camera seems to stay in MF for the shot. Also I have noticed that the F1 changes some internal settings when I change the Continious Shutter dial. So here are all my settings for MF working.
Mode dial-BestShot-Night Scene
CS Button- High-Speed Setting(this may not matter)
Movie Mode switch- SD ( the camera responds differently in SD and HD in some settings)
The Lock focus and Lock AE work also.
I have noticed that if I change settings too often and to quickly, the camera holds on to some old settings. If this happens, I turn off the camera to clear out the memory buffers and then restart the camera.
It would be nice if someone else would check me on this to confirm the MF settings

Two ways to set the focus:

I suspect the camera operates in to modes: VIEW and PICTURE. Until you press the shutter-button the VIEW image is best for framing. Upon the shutter-button is pressed, the camera doesn't go into PICTURE mode. PICTURE mode gets optimal focus and exposure.

1) IN AF MODE, use AF then press the Shutter button half way to gain focus then push the side lock button to MF so the camera stays in MF then reframe. Pressing shutter button half-way ALSO sets exposure. Pressing side AF/AE button also locks exposure. (If you set the button to AE & AF.) This prevents unwanted exposure fluctuations.

2) Set the camera in MF MODE and adjust the focus then reframe the shot.

AE is still operating so, if necessary, the camera will adjust exposure during the shot.

I'm not sure what happens if you just press record. Does it stay in VIEW or go into PICTURE?


So you now have two BS settings: Portrait and Night mode.

What WB settings do these use?

Do they force AWB? Or, if you set your own WB, do they use it? If they force a WB, what does each force? (Night, I'll bet, uses Tungsten? Portrait -- I have no idea.)

How steady does the IMAGE AS hold the pix?

Happy T-day!

The timelapse feature is pretty handy too.

What time lapse functions does it have? I looked through the manual and didn't see anything.

Hi everybody

Question: Is it possible to remote the camera through a computer or only with the remote control ?

Best regards

Gilles

Amazing no time lapse built in. But, the is a wired remote available. I suspect it would be very simple to use this connection to fire off shots.

there is a timelapse hack... it's not perfect, but ok.

Just set your camera to frameburst mode.... compose your shot, set the AE and focus... then, in the frame burst setting, set it to "Auto N". When you click the shutter, the camera will then take a shot every second or so (depending on your settings) sequentially untill you hit the shutter or the card runs.

The only way I have found to get longer than 1fps is to have a slow shutter speed... great for traffic shots and stuff.

It's not as good as a standard interavlometer, but for clouds, people, traffic etc, it's great and has alot less flicker than timelapse on a normal DSLR

Here is a demo (1080p/30fps - 15mb):
http://www.screenspro.com/uploads/timelapse.mov

there is a timelapse hack... it's not perfect, but ok.
Here is a demo (1080p/30fps - 15mb):
http://www.screenspro.com/uploads/timelapse.mov

WOW -- that's great and a really good tip!

I just ordered an F1.

I don't think any camera can do ALL the things the F1 can do. I'd love the Canon, but I am NOT going to spend that kind of money!

The Nikon may have a better written manual, but like all Nikon products it is crazy complex just for taking stills.

I'm also looking at making ExposureRoom movies. Do I really need super quality? I don't think so. Or, to put it another way -- I refuse to spend the money required for an Sony EX1.

Most of all, I want to return to 720p. It matches my computer power so much better than 1920x1080. Both iMovie 08 and Avid Media Composer work really well with 720p30.

Hopefully, we can all build a great user group here.

steve (or anyone else on here) If you want to make some cash from the F1, pm me. I am setting up a site to sell stock video, amongst other things... and the F1 has the right quality to sell very well as stock.

It's not as good as a standard interavlometer, but for clouds, people, traffic etc, it's great and has alot less flicker than timelapse on a normal DSLR


Yeah, that doesn't sound like it will work for me. I'll go back to lusting over a hpx170...